From: Militch@aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 23:38:21 EST
Subject: COZY: Angle and level measurement tools

I will be starting chapter five in a couple of weeks, and it looks like I am
soon going to need a tool that allows me to make precise angle
measurements(other than level which I can do with a bubble level).  Can anyone
recommend a tool and a source that has proven useful during construction.

Thanks,
  Peter Militch Cozy Mk IV #740

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 08:15:13 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Angle and level measurement tools

Militch said <a tool that allows me to make precise angle>

Sears makes a pendulum type of angle measurer that has about a 4" base, and reads to 1 degree, but I 
would assume its ok +/- 2 degrees.

My preferred is make a template, normally cardboard, that is a right triangle with one angle of the 
desired angle from horizontal (or vertical),  with one leg atleast 12" long. Then use your level 
with the template to describe the necessary slope.

The measurements for a template with a 12 inch horizontal leg are determined as follows:

1: The horizontal measurement is 12".
2: For a 30 degree off the horizontal, from your calculater or trigonometric tables (found in many 
handbooks, math books, etc.), the tangent (tan) of 30 degrees, zero minutes and seconds = 0.577
3: Then the vertical measurement is 12 inches times 0.577 (the tangent) = 6.928 inches.
4: Layout your template by marking a 12" line on your material, on a perpendicular line at one end 
of the 12", mark off the 6.928 inches, connect the free ends of the lines, and you have you angle. 
Essentially no cost, and accurate. Can use much longer lengths than 12", and more decimal places. 
Land surveyors use 8 decimal places for the trig functions.

p.s. I have on occasion been accused of being too elementary in comments, but without knowing the 
audience, I try to err on the conservative. As a suggestion (and not pertaining to this reply), at 
times if the request for info would include a brief description of the equipment and knowledge base 
available, the answers could be closer.   

From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:58:24 -0600
Subject: Re: COZY: Angle and level measurement tools 

Peter Militch wrote:


>I will be starting chapter five in a couple of weeks, and it looks like I am 
>soon going to need a tool that allows me to make precise angle 
>measurements(other than level which I can do with a bubble level).  Can anyone 
>recommend a tool and a source that has proven useful during construction.


Wicks has a nifty smart level (reads out in tenths of a degree) if you are 
willing to part with the bucks and want to be dead-on from here out.

I'm on chapter 13 and finally bought one at Oshkosh (10% discount) last 
summer.  Wish I had gotten 'smart' sooner; would have made the tasks much 
simpler.  I used the Sears pendulum angle finder for canard incidence and 
later compared it to my smart level.  Missed it by about 0.2 degrees 
(positive, which is a good thing for safety).  From that, I'd say the 
pendulum angle finder is probably adequate, and certainly less expensive.  
If you need to, you can eyeball 0.5 degrees using it.

I am thoroughly content with the smart level; but then I'm one of those 
irritating perfectionists.

Larry

From: "Jim White" <jimwhi@televar.com>
Subject: COZY: Digital Calipers
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 22:37:18 -0800

One tool I have found especially useful in building my Cozy IV has been a 6"
digital caliper.  It is like a digital micrometer, that measures down to
0.001".  One nice feature is the adjustable zero point.  You measure the
distance to some point and then zero the reading to find the exact distance
between two points.  It is also handy for measuring drill bit and bolt
sizes.  The end tips are sharp and work great as an awl to scratch a mark on
fiberglass.  I think you will find lots of uses for it.
I bought mine from Harbor Freight 1-800-423-2567, item 35384-OCYA.  I paid
$60, but I noticed the last catalog had them for $49.
Jim White
N44QT
.__
..\ \
...\  \
.....\    \        l l
   l_l ......\__ l l_
<  _  ..... ___ )_  >
...l  l       /     l l
...../    /        l l
..../  /
._/_/


Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 09:06:49 -0600
From: "Joseph H. Hart IV" <jodyhart@communique.net>
Subject: COZY: What is a Surfoam plane?

What is a Stanley Surfoam plane as Nat specifies for use in contouring
the fuselage?  What's it look like?  How does it work?  How much does it
cost?  Where do I get one?

    Thanks in advance.

Jody Hart
jodyhart@communique.net

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 10:10:40 -0600
From: Tom Brusehaver <tgb@cozy.wamnet.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: What is a Surfoam plane?


>What is a Stanley Surfoam plane as Nat specifies for use in contouring
>the fuselage?  What's it look like?  How does it work?  How much does it
>cost?  Where do I get one?

It looks like a heavy duty cheese grater.  Kinda grey, in color.
Various sizes, palm sized, file sized, longer two handed size.  You
can get 'em at most hardware, and lumber stores.

If you don't have one, you need one.

From: Cozy7971@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 21:01:40 EST
Subject: Re: COZY: What is a Surfoam plane?

In a message dated 2/8/99 9:06:39 AM Central Standard Time,
jodyhart@communique.net writes:

<< What is a Stanley Surfoam plane as Nat specifies for use in contouring
 the fuselage?  >>
Its made by the Stanley Company (obviously) and looks generally like a plane
from the top.  Rather than a smooth bottom with a slot for a blade, the device
has a bottom that looks a lot like a cheese grater. You should be able to find
one at the local hardware store or home center.

Dick Finn
Cozy Mark IV #46

Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 20:55:42 -0600
From: "Joseph H. Hart IV" <jodyhart@communique.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: What is a Surfoam plane?

    Okay, okay...I'm a dumbass.  After the fifty or so ; ) of you who responded
with descriptions and the fact that this tool was not some sort of
highly-specialized composite-aircraft-construction-specific supertool, but rather
a common tool readily available at Home Depot.  So...I went to Home Depot to find
that I had three of these at home already!  Just never matched the description to
the actual tool.  If the plans (and your responses : ) ) had simply said
"bondo-shaping-death-file," I would have known exactly what you were talking
about!
--
Jody Hart, New Orleans, LA
Cozy Mark IV plans no. 648, N359JH (reserved)
Chapter 6, see latest progress at:  <http://home.gs.verio.net/~jodyhart/home.html>



Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 17:54:37 -0500
From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" <marcz@ultranet.com>
Subject: Fwd: COZY: What is a Surfoam plane?

Joseph H. Hart asks;

>What is a Stanley Surfoam plane as Nat specifies for use in contouring
>the fuselage?

It's a tool for scraping/planing.

>.....  What's it look like?

Sort of like a cross between a plane and a large sanding block, but instead
of a blade on the bottom it's got a serrated cutting surface, sort of like
a large cheese grater.

>......  How does it work?

Works great.  Oh, you mean HOW does it work.  It works by "grating" the
surface of whatever you're cutting, like a cheese grater does.  Works well
on foam and soft woods - probably other relatively soft stuff too.  I used
mine to carve the fuselage corners and the fuselage side contours.

>...... How much does it cost?

Geez, I forget, but it can't be $15.

>.....  Where do I get one?

Well, in MA, you could go to Home Depot.  I'd imagine any large hardware
store would carry one.

--
Marc J. Zeitlin           marcz@ultranet.com
                          http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 08:24:50 -0500
From: bil kleb <w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: COZY: What is a Surfoam plane?

Hunter Welch wrote:
> 
> In addition, Anyone in the process of shaping the bottom curvature and are
> experiencing the difference in hardness between wood longerons and the foam
> around them, a horseshoe file handles the curvature just fine without
> damaging the foam

i found the my hand-held electric planer from my sailboard shaping
days made quick work (1/2 hour) of the whole shaping bit. (contrary
to what the plans say about surfboard building experience being
of no use.)

[http://www.geocities.com/~kleb/homebuilt/ch07/ch07_19.jpg]

actually i lie: neil c explained his use of a homemade milling
machine for getting a flat bottom after adding the foam bits that
help form the naca duct.  it consisted of using two pieces of wood
on vertical spacers to span the area length wise.  then simply run
a router back and forth over the area to "mill" a flat surface,
moving the wood guides as necessary.

[http://www.geocities.com/~kleb/homebuilt/ch07/ch07_17.jpg]

-- 
bil <mailto:w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov>

From: "Michael Schrder" <petrusjka@get2net.dk>
Subject: COZY: Drill sizes
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 20:51:05 +0100

A quick question from Denmark. Can anyone give me a hint about the logic between drill- numbers ie. #12, #30, #10 etc. and their mesurement ie. 3/4", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16" etc. 
Last time I was in The US, I bought an "american" drill-set (we use metric over here), but the difference between numbers and size is still a puzzle. 


Mike, Denmark #220

Date: Sun, 07 Mar 1999 19:05:06
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Drill sizes


>It's actually worse than that. We have letter drills, number drills and
>fractional drills. I don't have the specific decimal equivelants here but
will
>get them from work and send them if someone else doesn't beat me to it.

  I've published a number/letter/fractional to decimal drill
  chart on our website at
   
  http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/driltabl.pdf



       Bob . . .
                       ////
                      (o o)
       ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
       <  A mind abhors a vacuum . . . >
       <   When deprived of facts,     >
       <  our fantasies are generally  >
       <   much worse than reality.    >
       =================================
         <http://www.aeroelectric.com>

From: "John Slade" <jslade@adelphia.net>
Subject: COZY: 5 minute epoxy containers
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 13:08:55 -0400

Sorry - my earlier post was not plain text  I'll get this down eventually.

Hello all,
A thought which might be helpful...

I was in Dennys the other day pouring syrup on my waffles when I realized
that the containers they use would be perfect for storing 5 min epoxy.  They
have a metal slide which cuts off the flow when you release the trigger. I
asked the waitress if I could by a couple (before figuring the tip) and got
them for $1 each. Beats pouring from the plastic containers and cutting the
flow off with the screw cap.

John Slade, Cozy #757 (Ch. 6 - seat brace goes in today).



From: Epplin John A <EpplinJohnA@jdcorp.deere.com>
Subject: RE: COZY: New Tool
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 08:00:13 -0500 



> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Neil Clayton [SMTP:harvey4@earthlink.net]
>  
> One question...it doesn't have a variable speed control - it's either
> 30,000 revs or OFF. Could I use a commercial off-the-shelf reostat as a
> speed controller or will that be the same as using s skinny extn cord and
> cause the motor to overheat?
> 
> Neil C.
	[Epplin John A]  

	Dayton makes a AC/DC motor speed control.  These are available in I
believe 5 amp and 10 amp sizes.  Should work great for this type of tool.
Grainger sells them, suppose most motor supply housed also would.

	John epplin...

From: "Wilhelmson, Jack" <Wilhelmson@scra.org>
Subject: RE: COZY: New Tool
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 09:31:34 -0400 

Neil:

You need a speed control for series wound motors. These are available from
woodworking tool suppliers. They use a solid state pulse circuit the same as
the speed control
in a dremel. You should not overload the tool a low speeds however because
it's interrnal cooling fan is
not operating fast enough to dissapate the heat generated.

Jack Wilhelmson N711cz

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Neil Clayton [SMTP:harvey4@earthlink.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, April 06, 1999 8:41 AM
> To:	cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject:	COZY: New Tool
> 
> I burned up my Dremel grinding off a frozen nut on the lawnmower, so I
> needed a new one.
> 
> I saw an ad on late-night TV for a tool called a RotoZIP, but they wanted
> "3 easy payments of $39.95", but then I saw the same thing in Home Depot
> for $80 and bought one....WOW!
> 
> Margie (my wife) calls it a "Dremel on steriods". It's 4 amps (x 120v =
> 480
> watts, or .6 HP) vs Dremel's 1 amp. It's supposed to be used as a router
> for cutting holes in drywall, etc, but as a maxi-dremel it works GREAT!
> 
> One question...it doesn't have a variable speed control - it's either
> 30,000 revs or OFF. Could I use a commercial off-the-shelf reostat as a
> speed controller or will that be the same as using s skinny extn cord and
> cause the motor to overheat?
> 
> Neil C.

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 08:42:12 -0500
From: Tom Brusehaver <tgb@cozy.core.wamnet.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: New Tool


>One question...it doesn't have a variable speed control - it's either
>30,000 revs or OFF. Could I use a commercial off-the-shelf reostat as a
>speed controller or will that be the same as using s skinny extn cord and
>cause the motor to overheat?

I used a dimmer switch, the kind you put in the dining room for
controlling the lights, on a dremel without variable speed.  It isn't
linear, it starts about half way up, but there seems to be good power
there even at low speed.

Dimmers work by pulsing the 60Hz coming out of the wall. They will
only give a fraction of the full voltage, in each cycle.  It is kinda
like turning the tool on and off really quickly.  Some are rated 500W,
and some up to 1500watt.  

The reostat will take the voltage you don't want and turn it into
heat. At 480Watts, you'll need a very expensive reostat. Maybe an
autotransformer would be better, and cheaper.

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 12:58:20 -0500
From: Michael Link <mglink@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: New Tool



Tom Brusehaver wrote:

> >One question...it doesn't have a variable speed control - it's either
> >30,000 revs or OFF. Could I use a commercial off-the-shelf reostat as a
> >speed controller or will that be the same as using s skinny extn cord and
> >cause the motor to overheat?
>
> I used a dimmer switch, the kind you put in the dining room for
> controlling the lights, ---.
>
> The reostat will take the voltage you don't want and turn it into
> heat. At 480Watts, you'll need a very expensive reostat. Maybe an
> autotransformer would be better, and cheaper.

Light dimmers are not usually suited for motor speed control applications, as
they are rated for resistive loads only,(such as a lightbulb). Use of this
setup will often result in the dimmer burning up. Motor speed controllers (
try Grainger) are rated for the inductive load posed by the "SuperDremel" ,
and are generally cheaper than an autotransformer or the "big hoss" of a
reostat that you would need.

By the way, I have found with regular Dremel tools, that I always run them
flat out.  I have found that the high speed cuts or grinds with less applied
force, and thus gives me better control than running the tool at a lower
speed.

Regards,
              Michael Link   Cozy MK-IV    N-171-ML

From: "John Stricker" <jstricke@odsys.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: New Tool
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 14:12:41 -0500

Michael,

This is a secret that people that do porting and polishing of heads learn
real quickly.  You don't GRIND with a Dremel or die grinder, I like to think
of it more like painting with one.  The burrs and bits won't overheat and be
damaged and you'll do twice the work in the same time.

John Stricker

jstricke@russellks.net

"I didn't spend all these years getting to the top of the food chain
just to become a vegetarian"

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Link <mglink@bellsouth.net>
To: Tom Brusehaver <tgb@cozy.core.wamnet.com>
Cc: <cozy_builders@canard.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 12:58 PM
Subject: Re: COZY: New Tool


: By the way, I have found with regular Dremel tools, that I always run them
: flat out.  I have found that the high speed cuts or grinds with less
applied
: force, and thus gives me better control than running the tool at a lower
: speed.
:
: Regards,
:               Michael Link   Cozy MK-IV    N-171-ML
:

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 16:56:15 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: COZY: Dremel's

I have 2 Dremel's, found it time saving to have each set up with a different cutter, stone or 
router base. Also when one broke, I still could function.

Dremel will for about $35 maximum repair or replace entire unit. I found it convient to stock 
the front shaft, flexible coupling (its really a mechanical overload protector, and switches.

The old style rotary speed controls were excellent, when the went to the electronic speed 
control with slide reostat, things got bad. The electronic doesn't pass the current, and the 
slightest dust (fiberglass is bad) creates a open circuit. A blast of compressed air and/or TV 
tuner cleaner many times will help.

I too, nearly alway operate at maximum speed. One of the most useful items is a disc sander, 
Wick's have them in various diameters. The shaft is 1/4". If you have the ability to turn them 
down to 1/8" they are great. I found some arbors with 1/8" at OSH Flymarket. ALso the scotch 
brite type pads work well on polishing metals, like gasket surfaces

From: SBLANKDDS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 22:08:31 EDT
Subject: Re: COZY: Dremel's

    When my Variable speed Dremel end stopped working (from too much 
pressure), I opened it up to find the plastic connector from the motor to the 
bur chuck failed.  It protected the motor, as designed, from over use.  

   A quick search of the Dremel web site located the parts for just a few 
bucks, and they were very prompt at sending them out. Good product support.

Steve

From: RWhitt1245@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 16:18:19 EDT
Subject: COZY: Re DremelI 

I have a Foredom flexible shaft machine that I rarely use. It came with a 
variable speed comtroller that is useful for older drills etc. I mounted an 
old single speed drill in a wooden fixture and use  a "rotary rasp" run at 
low speed to carve angles in foam, places where a standard  router wont do

Ron W. eracer 346

Date: Wed, 07 Apr 1999 18:40:35 -0400
From: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: RE: Dremel repair

I e-mailed Dremel asking if they have a repair programme....got this
helpful mail back from them. Thought I'd share it with the group;

Neil C.

------------------------------------------------------------------
>From: "Camp, Jill" <Jill_Camp@sbpt.com
>To: "'Neil Clayton'" <harvey4@earthlink.net>
>Subject: RE: Dremel repair
>Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 10:40:41 -0500 
>X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2448.0)
>
>Hello Neil,
>
>Thank you for contacting Dremel with your question.  For authorized service
>repair you may send your tool with a brief explanation to:  Dremel Service
>Center, 4915 21st Street, Racine WI. 53406.  Please include your name,
>address and daytime phone number in the event we would need to contact you.
>
>Once we receive your tool for service it will be on the way back within 3
>working days.
>
>If you have any further questions please feel free to give us a call at
>(800) 437-3635 or get back to us via e-mail.
>
>Best Regards,
>Jill Camp  <Jill_Camp@sbpt.com>
>Dremel Customer Service

From: ZeroGCorp1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:59:39 EDT
Subject: COZY: Neat glass cleanup trick.

I should have posted this with the other message, but as I was painfully 
picking off pieces of small bits of glass off the foam and the surrounding 
table before breaking out the epoxy, my wife came to the rescue. She brought 
out the round sticky pet-hair remover brush (a roller with Masking tape) that 
we use so that you don't take pieces of your cat with you everywhere you go...

It worked like a champ! had the glass and the bits of foam off the piece with 
no effort at all.  You can pick these up at any grocery store and it was 
super-easy.

Ray Cronise
CZ#770

btw, for the record, she did make the "why didn't you ask me dear" comments. 
I'm glad she is supporting me on this project.

From: "Brian & Susan DeFord" <brian@deford.com>
Subject: COZY: Neat little laser level
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 18:06:26 -0700

Folks,

I just received a very nice laser level (brand name Infiniter) that will
come in very handy at numerous stages of the Cozy building process. The
level is 18" long and has conventional sight bubbles both vertically and
horizontally. The neat thing is the built-in laser that projects a red line
from the end of the level. It is aligned with the edge of the level so you
get a true straight edge. Very nice for leveling the wings, fuselage, gear
toe-in, and on and on... The laser is guaranteed accurate to .05 degrees or
1/3" at 30 feet.

If you'd like to order one, I'd try direct from the factory. The name of the
level is the Infiniter Laser Edge Line. The Invoice from the factory had a
price of $55 but I ended up paying a markup through a distributor since that
is how I actually located it. The factory number is (210) 520-8430 (Texas).

Regards,
Brian DeFord
http://www.deford.com/cozy
Currently leak testing the fuel tanks and mounting the engine.

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 21:11:16 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Neat little laser level

Was said <The laser is guaranteed accurate to .05 degrees or 1/3" at 30 feet.>

Check it yourself. Put a shim under one end 0.016" per 18", and see what happens. set a point 30 feet away that is the same 
elevation, then set the level adjacent to the distant point and same elevation, then aim at the old point and it should be 
within 5/8" , +/- 0.3" time 2 ways. This is called a peg test and is a common land surveyor's procedure. The instrument should 
be checked this way at regular intervals, and before and after any critical measurements. Guarantees don't cut the mustard, 
must verify yourself.

From: JHTanstaaf@aol.com
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 13:22:19 EDT
Subject:  Re: COZY: Neat little laser level

I got mine at Home Depot (or maybe Lowes -- I haunt both) for about the same 
$. Check with your local depot, you might save time/shipping.

From: Todd Carrico <todd.carrico@aris.com>
Subject: RE: COZY: Neat little laser level
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 18:47:31 -0700

While we are on this subject...

Have you ever calibrated your bubble level?  I checked 
mine yesterday, and I will be making my own from now 
on.

Take your level.  It has four edges that should be "Level".

Mark a point on the wall.

Place your level on the point and draw a line.

Do this for each edge.

I had four distinct lines.  Which one is correct?  I paid 
extra for the fancy one!

You must verify all measuring devices.  Now where is my plumb bob?
tc

-----Original Message-----
From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
To: brian@deford.com; cozy_builders@canard.com
Sent: 6/17/99 7:11 PM
Subject: Re: COZY: Neat little laser level

Was said <The laser is guaranteed accurate to .05 degrees or 1/3" at 30
feet.>

Check it yourself. Put a shim under one end 0.016" per 18", and see what
happens. set a point 30 feet away that is the same 
elevation, then set the level adjacent to the distant point and same
elevation, then aim at the old point and it should be 
within 5/8" , +/- 0.3" time 2 ways. This is called a peg test and is a
common land surveyor's procedure. The instrument should 
be checked this way at regular intervals, and before and after any
critical measurements. Guarantees don't cut the mustard, 
must verify yourself.

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 21:34:40 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RE: COZY: Neat little laser level

Was asked<I had four distinct lines.  Which one is correct?> 

Disregard any marks that say bubble centered or level. When the bubble stays at the same position when the level is "end for 
ended" is level. Note this means same distance from some mark. It will be say the left mark, both positions if you keep 
yourself at the same side of the level (still holding the left end with the left hand and not crossing the arms) THis may or 
may not be centered between some marks. If with the bubble centered you get 2 lines, split th difference, thats also level.

Note for magnetic directions, old time surveyors were known for whether they shot a sidearm left or right. The holster 
position on the left or right affected the compass and biased the land survey directions. TO recreate a survey, the later 
surveyor had to carry a sidearm on the same side.

From: Lee810@aol.com
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 23:58:43 EDT
Subject: Re: COZY: Neat little laser level

In a message dated 6/17/99 8:16:37 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
cdenk@ix.netcom.com writes:

> Guarantees don't cut the mustard,   must verify yourself.

You never know when the principles of physics may change.  Last time I 
checked, coherent light always propagated in a straight line unless acted 
upon by a mass about the size of a star :-).  

Seriously though, as Carl points out you still must check that the laser beam 
is correctly registered with the level's housing.  We had this discussion a 
while ago before laser levels were available in this price range.  About 4 
years ago we thought it might be able to use inexpensive laser pointers as 
leveling devices.  We quickly realized there was no guarantee that laser 
beams were aligned with their housings.  I think that a laser would be a 
great tool, although it has limited applications compared with a bubble or 
electronic level.

For aligning the toe-in, I bought a $10 rifle scope and installed it on a 
block and calibrated it using my neighbors siding as a target about 100 ft 
away. There are screw adjustments for the crosshairs you can use to achieve 
perfect alignment.   When I was satisfied that the crosshairs were within a 
tenth of a degree, I used it to set the toe-in on the flox pads on the gear 
legs using targets on a wall.  A laser would have been much cooler though.  
Other than that, I can't think of other applications where the need to use 
distant targets would obviate the need for a conventional level.

It sounds as if this level incorporates both bubble and laser techniques so 
it can serve as double duty making it a very versatile tool.  If I were in 
the market for a level, I'd certainly consider it if for no other reason than 
to say my plane was built with 'laser accuracy'.  

Lee Devlin
Greeley, CO

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 06:15:46 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Neat little laser level

Was Pointed out <correctly registered with the level's housing.>

My uncle, a mason (bricklayer) contractor, once had a 100 foot measuring tape with two 1 foot marks on it. He built a garage 
foundation a foot too long for my father. Don't trust any measuring device until you have confirmed its accuracy.

If in doubt as how to verify accuracy of a device, between the other disciplines and my civil engineering surveying classes we 
should be able to come up with a way.

From: "Michael Anderson" <mikej@nortelnetworks.com>
Subject: COZY: Chap. 9: Spot Facing Tool
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 15:35:12 -0500

So where does one get a Spot Facing Tool. I have looked at the local
hardware stores and Home Depot, etc. People look at me like I'm from Mars
when I ask about it.

Thanks,

Michael Anderson
Cozy #484, Chap. 9

From: Fritzx2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 16:57:41 EDT
Subject: Re: COZY: Chap. 9: Spot Facing Tool

>So where does one get a Spot Facing Tool. I have looked at the local
>hardware stores and Home Depot, etc. People look at me like I'm from Mars
>when I ask about it.

I recently posted a message about using a hole saw instead of a
spot facing tool.  I'm not the first to come up with the idea.  
Both will work but a hole saw cuts less material
so the tool doesn't heat up as mutch and you can buy hole saws
locally so long as you buy the type of hole saw that accepts a
1/4" diameter pilot rod.  After posting my message, I even noticed that
Aircraft Spruce has hole saws at a price that was only slightly higher
than I purchased locally.

John Fritz
fritzx2@aol.com

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 08:48:39 -0500
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Chap. 9: Spot Facing Tool

>Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 08:47:57 -0500
>To: Fritzx2@aol.com
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
>Subject: Re: COZY: Chap. 9: Spot Facing Tool
>In-Reply-To: <3412f065.251010c5@aol.com>
>
>At 04:57 PM 9/14/99 EDT, you wrote:
>>>So where does one get a Spot Facing Tool. I have looked at the local
>>>hardware stores and Home Depot, etc. People look at me like I'm from Mars
>>>when I ask about it.
>>
>>I recently posted a message about using a hole saw instead of a
>>spot facing tool.  I'm not the first to come up with the idea.  
>>Both will work but a hole saw cuts less material
>>so the tool doesn't heat up as mutch and you can buy hole saws
>>locally so long as you buy the type of hole saw that accepts a
>>1/4" diameter pilot rod.  After posting my message, I even noticed that
>>Aircraft Spruce has hole saws at a price that was only slightly higher
>>than I purchased locally.
>>
  The thing that's REALLY nice about a spotfacer is that
  the hole it makes in sheet metal is almost burr free
  and it doesn't grab like a twist drill. What
  size cutter is everyone looking for? I can get them
  locally used but resharpened and I could stock them
  in our webcatalog if there's enough interest.

  I'm probably going to add a 15/32" for switches and
  a 7/16" for breakers.


       Bob . . .

                       ////
                      (o o)
       ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
       <  Independence Kansas: the     >
       <  Jurassic Park of aviation.   >
       <  Your source for brand new    >
       <  40 year old airplanes.       >
       =================================
          http://www.aeroelectric.com

From: "dewayne morgan" <dmorgan@mis.net>
Subject: COZY: measuring tapes
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:25:51 -0400



An experienced carpenter told me an interesting thing. Not all measuring
tapes are the same so you need to use the same one all the time. To test
this , I took two of my tapes and checked them. Sure enough, over a
thirteen feet span i was getting close to an eighth inch difference. That
may not seem like a lot, but if  a person used two or three different tapes
the errors would be multiplied. 

Anyone else heard of this?

dewayne 

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 17:37:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: measuring tapes

Was said <getting close to an eighth inch difference>

My uncle, a mason (bricklayer) contractor once had a tape with two - one foot marks, and made a 
house foundation a foot to big.

Geodetic surveyors (land surveyors working on a country sized survey do such things as:
1: accounting for temperature with a thermometer affixed to the tape.
2: suspend the tape a special locations on special saddles. Then with a given tension the catenary 
(sag curve) of the tape is known.
3: Set the tension applied to the end with a fish type spring scale, then the stretch is known.
4: Calibrate the tape against a known distance. Here in Cleveland, there are a set of points in a 
long tunnel of a water treatment plant, and in an eastern suburb, in marble floor of a basement of 
a courthouse. One gets funny looks from the people with business in the courthouse when 5 grubby 
land surveyors stretch a tape on the floor. These points are set with a tape that as been recently 
calibrated at the National bureau of standards, numerous readings, then statistically determining 
the offical length. 

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 17:42:57 -0400
From: "L. Wayne Hicks" <lwhicks@erols.com>
Subject: COZY: Spot Facing Tool vs Hole Saw

> >So where does one get a Spot Facing Tool? 
> 
> John Fritz says:  I recently posted a message about using a hole saw instead of a
> spot facing tool.  

To which Wayne Hicks adds:  Yes, several of us have used the hole saw. 
Check my chapter 9 web page description and pictures. 
http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/2027

From: Epplin John A <EpplinJohnA@jdcorp.deere.com>
Subject: RE: COZY: squeeges
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 14:07:03 -0500 

I use the ones you get at the auto supply store, polyethylene I think.  Work
fine, will eventually crack but the cost is OK.

John Epplin   Mk4  #467   filling & sanding....

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	dewayne morgan [SMTP:dmorgan@mis.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, October 05, 1999 1:46 PM
> To:	cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject:	COZY: squeeges
> 
> The plans call for a RUBBER squeege. Is there a reason for this or will a
> plastic or teflon one work also.
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> dewayne morgan
> 
> cozy #815  (just did my first practice layup in chapter 3, oh yeah, oh
> yeah!! )

From: "John Slade" <rjslade@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: squeeges
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 15:41:16 -0400

DeWayne,
I like the 6 inch rubber squeege. I get mine from Wicks. I have about 3,
(one of which is cut in two - perfect for spar caps). When I forget to clean
them I just hold them up against my belt sander for a second. I've also
tried squeege's from paint and auto stores, but haven't been very happy with
them.

>(just did my first practice layup in chapter 3, oh yeah, oh yeah!! )
Cool.

Regards,
John Slade

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 15:10:48 -0500
From: "Daniel D. Pettinger" <DPettinger@ibsw.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: squeeges

Dewayne,
I bought the 6 inch squeegee from Wicks.  I used them for my initial lay-ups
of the seat back.  Someone recommended using old credit cards.  I tried it
and haven't been back the the 6 inch squeegees.

Now if I could just convince my wife to use them this way.

Dan

dewayne morgan wrote:

> The plans call for a RUBBER squeege. Is there a reason for this or will a
> plastic or teflon one work also.
>
> thanks
>
> dewayne morgan
>
> cozy #815  (just did my first practice layup in chapter 3, oh yeah, oh
> yeah!! )

From: "Hunter Welch" <nogofsu@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: squeeges
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 21:06:34 -0700

for the big jobs there are also ones that I have gotten at Home Depot that
are used for drywall or wallpapering

Bill W
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry & Jenny Schuler <lschuler@g2a.net>
To: cozy_builders@canard.com <cozy_builders@canard.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: COZY: squeeges


>>The plans call for a RUBBER squeege. Is there a reason for this or will a
>>plastic or teflon one work also.
>>
>
>I like the cheap plastic ones purchased at auto supply houses.  Difference
>is that it sometimes takes a little bit more pressure and few extra passes
>since they are thinner and more flexible.  Don't have to wait for mail if I
>need one....  Available in several sizes.  The narrow, maybe 1-1/2" is nice
>for corner tapes.
>
>Larry
>
>

Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 21:19:36 -0400
From: Jeff Russell <JRaero@gte.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: squeeges

Larry & Jenny Schuler wrote:
> 
> >The plans call for a RUBBER squeege. Is there a reason for this or will a
> >plastic or teflon one work also.

dry wall knifes or putty knives work great on flat lay-ups.
Your hand stay out of the goo.  Pressure is much better.
-- 
Jeff Russell/AeroCad Inc.

From: "Larry & Jenny Schuler" <lschuler@g2a.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: squeeges
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 21:58:53 -0500


>
>dry wall knifes or putty knives work great on flat lay-ups.
>Your hand stay out of the goo.  Pressure is much better.
>--

Dry wall knifes are VERY nice for spreading micro fill.  The wider the
better.

Larry

From: "Capps Family" <cappsfan@ameritech.net>
Subject: COZY: Hand Tools:Perma-Grit tools
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 10:05:42 -0600

To All,

Wicks sells an indispensable tools set called (Perma-Grit Tools/Sanding
Blocks & Strips), these tools are ideal for, wing building, fuselage
shaping, windows, arches and curves.  I highly recommend their Coarse and
Fine sanding Block and Stiple Roller.

WICKS

Sanding Blocks
Part#  SB140
Part#  SB280

Stiple Roller
58253
58253A


Blue Skies;

Larry

Larry A. Capps   #829
cappsfan@ameritech.net
Naperville, IL



Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 15:48:10 -0600
From: "David Burkes" <david@saffairs.msstate.edu>
Subject: COZY: Water Level

Home Depot has a nifty one man water level for $25.00. It has a sensor/signal at one end of 25 ft tube. The maker claims accuracy
to within 1/10 degree at fifty feet.
My personal opinion is that it will beat almost everything out there.
It worked well for the pyramids....they're still level......

From: Jim Hocut <jhocut@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: COZY: Water Level
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:18:55 -0500


> Home Depot has a nifty one man water level for $25.00.

You can just use a long piece of tygon tubing, no need for the extra 
$21.95 worth of fancy stuff.  Move the tubing up or down at your 
reference until the water line is even with the reference.  Then just 
walk over to the other end and adjust whatever it is you're leveling 
to match the water line there.  (Not that I'm against anyone spending 
money at Home Depot, their stock has been very good to me.)



Jim Hocut
jhocut@mindspring.com



Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 22:39:51 -0500
From: "L. Wayne Hicks" <lwhicks@erols.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Water Level

> Home Depot has a nifty one man water level for $25.00.

Jim Hocut wrote:
You can just use a long piece of tygon tubing.  Move the tubing up or
down at your
> reference until the water line is even with the reference.  

---> To make Jim's water level easier to use, I taped yardsticks to each
end of the tygon tubing. Instead of trying to adjust the tube, I just
slide the yarsticks so that the bubble is on the same number.  I've got
a picture of this on my Chapter 12 page at:

http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/2027

Wayne Hicks

From: Muzzy Norman E <MuzzyNormanE@Waterloo.deere.com>
Subject: RE: COZY: Water Level
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:28:12 -0600

I have also heard of people adding a few drops of 'Jet Dry' and food
coloring to the water to cause the meniscus (end of the water) to be more
discernable.  I like the idea of using a reservoir to and tees to be able to
establish multiple points at an adjustable height.

From: alwick@juno.com
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 06:53:45 -0800
Subject: Re: COZY: Water Level

What a creative solution Wayne! 
One note of caution with water levels. I found mine out of calibration by
1/4" one time. A bubble had developed near the middle and caused bad
reading. So I just twirled the water line like lasso and the bubble
disappeared. I'm sure my neighbors thought I was crazy twirling this
thing in the middle of the street.

-al wick
Canopy Latch System guy.
Artificial intelligence in Cockpit
Cozy sn 389 driven by stock Subaru 2.5 ltr 106% complete, Aug 00 first
flight sched..

On Mon, 22 Nov 1999 22:39:51 -0500 "L. Wayne Hicks" <lwhicks@erols.com>
writes:
> ---> To make Jim's water level easier to use, I taped yardsticks to
each
> end of the tygon tubing. Instead of trying to adjust the tube, I just

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From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 17:26:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Water Level

Was said <caution with water levels>

Before and after measurements the water level ends should be brought next to each other, and the match of the liquid levels 
should match.

All measuring devices should be checked for accuracy and sensativity regularly 

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 22:25:19 -0500
From: "L. Wayne Hicks" <lwhicks@erols.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Water Level

alwick@juno.com wrote:
> 
> One note of caution with water levels. I found mine out of calibration by
> 1/4" one time. A bubble had developed near the middle and caused bad
> reading. 

--------> Yes, if your tubing is of small diameter, the surface stiction
will cause inaccuracies.  Every time I use the water level, I raise one
end to allow the water to rock back and forth.  If the water bubble
doesn't return to same mark, then I look for air bubbles.  When it
returns repeatedly to the same mark, it's ready to use reliably.

Hicks

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 07:55:07 +0200
From: "Rego Burger" <BurgerR@telkom.co.za>
Subject: COZY: Spar mounting.

Hugh Farrior wrote:

I have actually found differences in all 3 of my levels.  Any tips on this subject would be greatly appreciated.<<<<<<<

If I understand you correctly your spirit levels are giving you trouble.
Some time back I had the same problem. I found my one spririt level would go out by a 1/4 bouble if I turned it around 180deg.
So what I did was mark a ref. direction on the level with a perm. pen. Then set your primary ref. e.g. longeron with "arrow" pointing  to the nose. Then place the level on all other surfaces to be campared in the same (nose) direction.

To check the spar for twist lay it face down on your work bench and using the same level arrow facing one way... move level to left wing attach point and check bouble accuracy then move it to the right attach point and check the difference. Don't panic if you see up to 1/8 bouble discrepancy you can always shim the wings latter. Choose the one closest to the centre "level" as a ref. for mounting in the verticle pos. (arrow up)

With all this you will find it pretty easy.
Good luck mounting your spar.



Rgo Burger
Tel: 0800456789
Fax:+27 41 3631465
South Africa

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 17:23:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Spar mounting.

Was said <mark a ref. direction on the level >

The reference marks (properly called fiduciary marks) are just that. First the instrument (level) must be consistant, the 
bubble vials must be fixed and not loose. Then by shimming one end of the level, and then end for ending the instrument, when 
the 2 (the fixed point and top of the shims) points are actually level, the bubble will be the same location in the vial with 
the instrument in both positions. Then you can mark the bubble location with a premanant marker. This same can be used with 
those EXPENSIVE electronic levels, when shimmed to read zero, end for end, and see what is says, thats your error. 

I bought a cheap 4' aluminum extrusion level in a small discount tool store. Before buying, I used a thin dime (US 10 cent 
piece) as a shim from level and vertical surfaces to check accuracy and sensetivity. The bubbles stayed centered when end for 
ended, and I could see bubble movement with the dime. Don't need expensive tools to build nice airframes.

