From: "Michael Schrder" <petrusjka@get2net.dk>
Subject: COZY: Hot Stuff
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 21:39:12 +0100

I am about to start working on the elevators, and it says somthing about "hot stuff" (to seal NC-2). I am not familiary with the term Hot Stuff, at least, it is probably not availably in Denmark. 

Could anyone give me a hint, what "Hot Stuff" is?? Is it some kind of 5 sec. glue??

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 15:12:30 -0600
From: Tom Brusehaver <tgb@cozy.wamnet.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Hot Stuff


>I am about to start working on the elevators, and it says somthing
>about "hot stuff" (to seal NC-2). I am not familiary with the term
>Hot Stuff, at least, it is probably not availably in Denmark.  
>
>Could anyone give me a hint, what "Hot Stuff" is?? Is it some kind of
>5 sec. glue?? 

It is a brand name for a Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue.  

Hot Stuff, Jet, Zap, Super Glue, etc are all brand names for the stuff
in the US, at least.

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 16:15:06 -0500
From: "Thomas W. Carey" <tcarey@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Hot Stuff

"Hot stuff" is a brand name for for one company's Cyanoacrylate Glue (super glue).

Michael Schrder wrote:

> I am about to start working on the elevators, and it says somthing about "hot stuff" (to seal NC-2). I am not familiary with the term Hot Stuff, at least, it is probably not availably in Denmark.
>
> Could anyone give me a hint, what "Hot Stuff" is?? Is it some kind of 5 sec. glue??

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 16:40:52 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Hot Stuff

Hot stuff is an Isocyranate instant glue in heavy syrup consistency. It the same family as what we 
have available in most stores called "Crazy Glue" for surfaces that fit very closely together, a 
drop or 2, put the pieces together, and in a few seconds the bond is complete. The thicker 
consistency of the Hot Stuff will fill small voids. There is an accelerator for the Hot Stuff, it 
comes in a small spray (finger up down type pump) bottle. The Hot Stuff sets slowly when there isn't 
a tight fit, a quick spray, and its solid. Recommend getting the accelerator. Both are in Spruce's 
catalog I think, used to be anyhow.

From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 16:14:47 -0600
Subject: Re: COZY: Hot Stuff 


>I am about to start working on the elevators, and it says somthing about "hot 
>st f" (to seal NC-2). I am not familiary with the term Hot Stuff, at least, it 
>is p bably not availably in Denmark. 


It's essentially a type of super glue if you are familiar with the term.  
We normally get it at a hobby store which sells model airplanes and such.

There are a couple thickness variations and most folks like the thicker 
version for our application.

Hope that helps.

Larry Schuler

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 16:35:56 -0800
From: hrogers@slac.stanford.edu (Howard Rogers)
Subject: Re: COZY: Hot Stuff

>Hot stuff is an Isocyranate instant glue in heavy syrup consistency. It
>the same family as what we
>have available in most stores called "Crazy Glue" for surfaces that fit
>very closely together, a
>drop or 2, put the pieces together, and in a few seconds the bond is
>complete. The thicker
>consistency of the Hot Stuff will fill small voids. There is an
>accelerator for the Hot Stuff, it
>comes in a small spray (finger up down type pump) bottle. The Hot Stuff
>sets slowly when there isn't
>a tight fit, a quick spray, and its solid. Recommend getting the
>accelerator. Both are in Spruce's
>catalog I think, used to be anyhow.

Here is a subject on which I have a lot of experience, all borne of the
gasket industry (long time ago) and the Radio Control hobby.  CA glue,
including Hot Stuff (also my personal favorite) comes in a variety of
viscositys, these days.  The way it was explained to me about how this
stuff works, is like this:  It is really a two-part glue, kinda like epoxy,
but the two parts are prevented from "going off" by a slightly acidic
inhibitor.  When the glue spreads out very thin, in a tight-fitting space,
the normal amount of water condensed on the surface of most things is
sufficient to lower the ph just enough for the stuff to go off.  Extremely
dry conditions are not good.  It sometimes helps to breathe lightly on the
parts, before bonding.  The accelerator is nothing more than a base.
Baking soda will work just fine.  There are a couple of important tips for
using it, though.  It works best to breath on, then dust one surface, and
apply the glue to the other one.  If you can use pins or guides of some
sort to bring the two parts into contact with each other in exactly the
correct orientation, it is a good idea, since the stuff will go off so
quickly with the introduction of the baking soda.  The other way is to use
the baking soda as a filler, or even as a fillet.  Drip the glue onto the
joint, and it will go off very fast, and quite exothermically, including a
little puff of smoke.  Don't get that smoke in your eyes!  The result is
like concrete!  Use poly plastic bags over your fingers when you must
handle the parts, close to the glue line, because this stuff sticks to skin
better than almost anything else, and it does it before you can say "oh
sh..."  The more you play around with it, the more great ideas you will get
for its use.  Example:  You can slap together a fancy drilling or sawing
jig for your drill press or band saw with lots of little wooden blocks and
a bottle of Hot Stuff, by just gluing them to the table.  Just knock them
off with a hammer, afterwards.  A million uses for temporary holding of
stuff during layup sequences, and no waiting.  Try the baking soda thing.
It expands the capability a lot!  Good building.

--Howard Rogers


Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 21:50:53 -0500
From: "L. Wayne Hicks" <lwhicks@erols.com>
Subject: COZY: Hot Stuff -- buy from ACS or 7-11?

The plans say Hot Stuff, but should we buy the stuff from ACS or is the
stuff at the 7-11 checkout counter good enough?   (Let me guess...7-11
variety is too viscous, right?)   

In ACS catalog, it looks like you buy a larger quantity than needed for
Chapter 11.  Is this Hot Stuff used again in later chapters?

Wayne Hicks
Cozy IV #678
Chapter 10

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 07:36:07 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Hot Stuff -- buy from ACS or 7-11?

The Hot Stuff has a shelf life of maybe 6 months, it goes a long way, I wouldn't buy more than 2 oz. 
at one time. Try to get fresh stock. I have had to special order from local hobby shop, who was 
happy to order, but wouldn't stock. Have had no problems with shelf life several orders from Spruce.

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 11:34:19 -0500
From: Bill Theeringer <Composite_Aircraft_Accessories@compuserve.com>
Subject: COZY: Hot stuff glue..

I have been using the thicker hot stuff for 8 years in the manufacture of
the cabin heaters and it sure does have a shelf life.  I found I can make
it last almost indefinitely by storing it in the freezer.  Even when it is
very cold it flows nicely.  One caution, store the accelerator away from
the glue.  They can sit on the same shelf 6 inches from each other and the
glue will set up.  I keep the accelerator in a large empty plastic butter
tub.  I buy mine from Satellite City in Simi Valley, CA.  They have an
informative 8 page catalog on their hot stuff products and can be reached
at 805-522-0062 or fax 527-9114.

Bill Theeringer
N29EZ

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 08:58:21 -0800
From: hrogers@slac.stanford.edu (Howard Rogers)
Subject: Re: COZY: Hot Stuff -- buy from ACS or 7-11?

Here is a great source for Hot Stuff, as well as a host of other great
stuff.  I have done a lot of business with these guys, and they are great.

http://www.towerhobbies.com/

They will usually send you a free catalog, even if it does say that there
is a charge for it.  Let me know how you like them.


-Howard Rogers


Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 09:13:06 -0800
From: hrogers@slac.stanford.edu (Howard Rogers)
Subject: Re: COZY: Hot Stuff -- buy from ACS or 7-11?

>The Hot Stuff has a shelf life of maybe 6 months, it goes a long way, I
>wouldn't buy more than 2 oz.
>at one time. Try to get fresh stock. I have had to special order from
>local hobby shop, who was
>happy to order, but wouldn't stock. Have had no problems with shelf life
>several orders from Spruce.

This is true, the shelf life is short, but there is a "sort of" workaround.
If you store the adhesive in the freezer (no, it won't freeze), the shelf
life is almost indefinite, but there is a catch (of course).  Once you open
it, you had best leave it at room temp.  In fact, let it come up to room
temp before that first opening.  Once open, if you attempt to take it in
and out of the cold, the cooling and warming cycle will cause condensation,
which will ruin it shortly.  It's best to buy the stuff in several small
containers, rather than a large container, unless you forsee an upcoming
project that will use a LOT of it.  If you keep them in the freezer, there
is no reason to worry about buying a bunch at once.  I read about this in
RCM (Radio Controled Modeler magazine), have done it many times, and it
works as advertised.

--Howard Rogers


From: Militch@aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 14:22:19 EST
Subject: COZY: Paper adhesive

I know I saw this answered in the archives once, but I can't locate the
reference.  What is the best way to glue paper or vellum templates to foam
when preparing to cut out parts?  I used ordinary Elmers Glue in just a few
spots.  That stuff is tough and it sticks to Last a Foam better than micro.
It took longer to sand the little spots off than it did to do the layup -
clearly not a good approach.  The discussion identified a spray on adhesive
that didn't shrink the paper and could be cleaned off with MEK or some other
similar solvent.

Thanks,
  Peter Militch #740 Finishing Chap 4, starting Chapter 5.

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 14:11:11 -0600
From: Tom Brusehaver <tgb@cozy.wamnet.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Paper adhesive


>I know I saw this answered in the archives once, but I can't locate the
>reference.  What is the best way to glue paper or vellum templates to foam
>when preparing to cut out parts?  I used ordinary Elmers Glue in just a few
>spots.  That stuff is tough and it sticks to Last a Foam better than
>micro.

I think based on your location (ch4 and 5) you are working on
bulkheads.  I'd not glue the paper to foam, but rather tape it. 

When you are gluing templates to formica/aluminium/plywood for making
hotwire templates, I use the 3M 77 spray adhesive, available at most
drug and hardware stores. 

Chapter 4 you use a lot of templates, then suddenly you hardly use
any, it is a weird transition. I remember that.

From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 14:58:04 -0600
Subject: Re: COZY: Paper adhesive 

> What is the best way to glue paper or vellum templates to foam when 
>preparing to cut out parts?  I used ordinary Elmers Glue in just a few 
>spots.  


I sure wouldn't glue templates to foam before doing a layup.  You're liable 
to interfere with the epoxy/micro to foam bond.

Repeat from archive:

For bulkheads and such, I laid up foam pieces a bit larger than needed, then 
after cure I stuck the templates/drawings on the panel (peel ply still in 
place) with double-sided 3M tape.  You can find the tape in hardware store 
where the window sealing films are.

I then cut slightly outside the lines (about 1/8") on band saw and sanded 
the edges to the line.

Worked for me.

Larry Schuler

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 16:04:48 -0500
From: bil kleb <w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: COZY: Paper adhesive

Militch@aol.com wrote:
> 
> What is the best way to glue paper or vellum templates to foam
> when preparing to cut out parts?

i never did.  i just cut the templates out, pinned them down in a
few places then traced the outline.  (this is for the bulkhead pieces.)

-- 
bil <mailto:w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov>

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 20:02:27 -0500
From: John <jmillington@enter.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Paper adhesive

>Militch@aol.com wrote:

> >I know I saw this answered in the archives once, but I can't locate the
> >reference.  What is the best way to glue paper or vellum templates to foam

    I traced all of my prints on the bulkheads by laying sheets of carbon paper
that I bought really cheap at Staples. Then I taped the plans on top of that and
I used a burnishing tool from my dry-transfer decal kit. I am very happy with
the results. Although I have nothing to compare this method to since I have
never done it before. This also allowed me to make corrections like making the
bottom of the instrument into a flat line. before cutting.

J.A.Millington
#706


