From: "astrong" <astrong@mscomm.com>
Subject: COZY: [c-a] Camlocs for the Cowls?
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 19:53:43 -0700

Eric, you wrote,

"I'm considering replacing the cowling screws/washers with Camloc"

I use comlock fasteners on my cowling.Like Fred Mahan I first evened out the
thickness of the cowling edges.
Those on the wing side are attached to the cowling and on the fuselage
removable. They are the normal 5/8" dia. After six years they are holding up
very well. On installing the cowling I look for the snap of the comlock to
assure me that they are still tight.

Regards,

Alex


Homepage http://www.canard.com/trim

"Live your life so you can look anybody in the eye,
and tell him to go to blazes!!"
                                  Dr. James Walter Strong
                                         (1874-1950)



































From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 11:04:19 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: [c-a] Camlocs for the Cowls?

I have used the Camloc 4002 series with the type N3 larger grommet. All are stainless phillips head studs. On Ez cowls 
generally its not possible to use the retainer. Have not had one come out in flight in 750 hours. 1/4 turn make it easy to 
remove cowl, which happens a zillion times, many times for a quick adjustment. Had one where the stud pin came loose, it was 
contained, the problem was getting it off, had to drill it out. They say to occasionly check for loose pins. I have several 
different stud lengths. It would be better if the receptacles were shimmed with glass to all the same length, but then too, 
after a couple of flights the cowl will heat, soften and adjust to its most comfortable position with the stud lengths maybe 
changing slightly. There are adjustable receptacles available but the are heavy too. My usual source is Skybolt 1-800-223-
1963. They have a good selection of aircraft fasteners and pipe fittings.

Date: Sat, 02 Oct 1999 07:51:45 -0500
From: David Domeier <david010@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: Re: 

Jack,

    re "I would Be afraid that the Camloc would come
lose and go through the prop."

    I've had one do it.  I went back to nut plates and screws...it's a
pain but they do not come out.

dd

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: One more oaf story
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 12:57:36 -0500

Paul, 
You published the complaint to all Cozy builders, but you didn't publish
the reason, which would have cleared Featherlite, to all the builders.
Nat

----------
> From: Paul Stowitts <PStowitts@worldnet.att.net>
> To: 'Nat Puffer' <cozy@extremezone.com>
> Subject: RE: COZY: One more oaf story
> Date: Monday, October 11, 1999 2:17 PM
> 
> Nat,
> 
> This cowling is from Aerocad.  I chose it as Jeff said it was already set
up
> to accept fuel injection.  I've got the Airflow Performance unit.  There
is
> not any additional glass reinforcing the shape (it bent quite easily
prior
> to the baffles being installed) but I did purchase this prior to your new
> agreement with Jeff.
> 
> Paul Stowitts
> Cozy Mark IV #200
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nat Puffer [mailto:cozy@extremezone.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 11, 1999 6:56 AM
> To: Paul; Cozy_Builders
> Subject: Re: COZY: One more oaf story
> 
> 
> Builders,
> When we asked Featherlite to make cowlings for us, we specified that the
> edges be reinforced. We believe that if the edges are reinforced with 5
> extra layers, they will hold their shape when off the airplane. We made
our
> own cowlings and reinforced them that way and then sent our cowlings to
> Featherlite to copy. When we inspected AeroCad's cowlings, they were not
> reinforced around the edges. Our approval was contingent on their being
> reinforced. If they are not, please let us know.
> Regards,
> Nat
> 
> ----------
> > From: Paul <CozyBldr@worldnet.att.net>
> > To: Cozy_Builders <cozy_builders@canard.com>
> > Subject: COZY: One more oaf story
> > Date: Monday, October 11, 1999 1:33 AM
> >
> > This weekend I glassed in the lower cowling baffles but, without
> thinking, I
> > did this while the cowling was off the plane.  I now have a rigid
cowling
> > that does not match my fuselage.  I had to cut through the baffles,
> attach
> > the cowling to the fuselage and reflox the joints.  Since I had the
> engine
> > on, I will have to remove the cowling, sand the joints and retape them.
> > What a pain.  Don't make the same mistake.  Install the baffles with
the
> > cowling on the fuselage and the engine off.
> >
> > Paul Stowitts
> > Cozy Mark IV #200
> >
> 

From: "Paul Stowitts" <PStowitts@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: COZY: One more oaf story Part 2
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 15:21:25 -0700

Nat's email cleared up a few things.  My cowling is from Aerocad, not
Featherlite so it did not have the reinforced flange area.  The Featherlite
cowling apparently does not have the problem (Jeff, are you noting this?).

Paul Stowitts
Cozy Mark IV #200

Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 17:03:34 -0400
From: Jeff Russell <JRaero@gte.net>
Subject: COZY: One more oaf story Part 2

> From: Nat Puffer

Paul, 
You published the complaint to all Cozy builders, but you didn't publish
the reason, which would have cleared Featherlite, to all the builders.
Nat

----------
> From: Paul Stowitts 

> Nat,
> 
> This cowling is from Aerocad.  I chose it as Jeff said it was already set
> up to accept fuel injection.  I've got the Airflow Performance unit.  
> There is not any additional glass reinforcing the shape (it bent quite easily
> prior to the baffles being installed) but I did purchase this prior to your new
> agreement with Jeff.
-----------

> From: Nat Puffer 

> Builders,
> When we asked Featherlite to make cowlings for us, we specified that the
> edges be reinforced. We believe that if the edges are reinforced with 5
> extra layers, they will hold their shape when off the airplane. We made
> our own cowlings and reinforced them that way and then sent our cowlings 
> to Featherlite to copy. When we inspected AeroCad's cowlings, they were not
> reinforced around the edges. Our approval was contingent on their being
> reinforced. If they are not, please let us know.
> Regards,
> Nat
 
-----------
> From: Paul 
> This weekend I glassed in the lower cowling baffles but, without
> thinking, I did this while the cowling was off the plane.  
> I now have a rigid cowling that does not match my fuselage.  I had to cut 
> through the baffles, attach the cowling to the fuselage and reflox the joints.  
> Since I had the engine on, I will have to remove the cowling, sand the joints 
> and retape them. What a pain.  Don't make the same mistake.  
> Install the baffles with the cowling on the fuselage and the engine off.


To all Builders:

I have tried to be very respectful of this forum and only address issues 
where we felt we could help a builder with construction details.

However, comments made to me by several builders and prospective
builders 
clearly indicates that serious misrepresentations about our products and 
company have occurred in several recent posts on this forum.  I feel
that I
must set the record straight.

AeroCad, Inc. was started because I felt there was builders needing help
and
a market for a larger canard airplane. In addition, our experience in
building 
other airplanes including a Velocity and a Berkut showed that more
modern 
materials and methods were available and could be used to produce a
complete 
kit.  A kit that would be molded to save time in construction and major 
time in finishing as the parts would come out of the molds almost ready
to 
paint.

The corporate proof of our kit airplane was completed in 1995 along with 
construction videotapes.  Quite a number of kits have been sold.  Eight
are 
flying and a substantial number of planes are in the final detail stages
and 
almost ready to fly.  This AeroCanard kit has been very successful and
there 
have been no quality problems which have caused any change in this kit
or its 
parts in any way.  If you are under any other impression, please contact
me 
or my father so that we can clear up these issues.

In order to stop the major legal expenses we were incurring, we signed
an 
agreement with Co-Z Development which requires us to pay a small
commission 
on the AeroCanard kits and a larger commission to produce parts for the 
Cozy MKIV aircraft. We had Nat Puffer personally checked all parts we 
produce for the Cozy MKIV to make sure they conform to form, fit, and 
function of the Plans he sells.  We have made a few changes to some of
our 
AeroCanard parts to better fit the Cozy plans at his request.  This is
his 
right and we were happy to do so.  In some cases we were able to
convince him 
that our newer methods and materials, while not exactly the same as
shown in 
the plans, still met form, fit, and function and they were approved for
sale 
under the Cozy label.

However, while we respect Nat's right to specify details on the Cozy 
MKIV parts, we want everyone to know that we strongly believe that the 
original parts, without changes, were and are equal in quality and use. 
We 
have not made any of those changes to the parts we sell and deliver with
the 
AeroCanard kit.

All molded parts for the Cozy have been approved with only two
exceptions:

In order to satisfy a request from Nat and a few builders, we did
produce a  
molded fuselage of the same outer size as the Cozy MKIV.  Because it is 
impossible for us to mold in the NACA vent (if you want one), it must be 
installed separately and we have simple instructions to accomplish
this.  
I have asked Nat to approve this and we hope that he will do so in the 
near future.  Until then it will only be offered as the non approved
Cozy
part and called an AeroCanard SB tub or kit.

The only other part that has not been approved for the Cozy MKIV is our
main 
gear.  There were questions raised previously and we have investigated
all of 
them.  Very early on we did try a approved PTM&W epoxy on only a couple
of units 
which might have made them a little more susceptible to creep.  We no
longer 
use that epoxy.  You should know that to date I have never had any
builder 
contact us with any main gear complaint other than one that the gear
tabs were 
not on the correct place.  The builder returned it and we found the jig
had moved
and we removed and replaced at our own cost. The original main gear
strut that 
we produced is installed on our factory airplane.  It has shown
absolutely no 
creep or any other problem and it has been subjected to a lot of abuse
including 
many landings in very hot weather at full gross.  We have sold quite a
number of 
these main gear struts and include them with every AeroCanard kit we
sell.  
Based upon our tests and experience, we strongly believe that they are
at 
least equal with the other brand and hope Co-Z Development will soon
approve 
them to be sold as authorized Cozy parts.

Among others, the recent posts concerning cowlings implied that there
are 
quality problems with our products.  This simply is not the case.  This
is 
more the situation where the Cozy instructions may not have been
followed.  
And, the manufacturer should have been contacted rather than have a
third party 
jump in and imply there was a problem or that we are not supplying a
part not 
done to Cozy specifications.  Our instructions on the AeroCanard
cowlings 
tell you to add the extra two plies on the cowlings before adding the
wing 
rails to screw to.  Mr. Puffer asked us to go ahead and add these plies
on 
the cowlings labeled Cozy approved.  We have done so and, again, were
more 
than happy to do so.  This was strictly a matter of personal preference
... 
should the factory or the builder add this?  The cowlings in question
were 
sold before the agreement was signed and were the AeroCanard style. 
Adding
the extra 2 plies of BID around the edges will not keep the shape from 
changing if the lower stiffers/baffles make the cowling spread or you
clamp 
them in place.  As Paul said, it would be better to add the baffles and
before 
they cure you should install the cowling back to the firewall flange and 
it will cure to the right size.  Think about installing the wings and
main
spar bolt bushings. Floxing them in place without bolting the wings 
to the main spar during the cure of the flox.  I would place money down
that
if you just flox the bushings in place and let cure, the wings will not
line
up with the holes that you drilled.  Does this make the main spar or
wings
a bad part?  This is where common sense need to be used or it should be
covered in the plans.  Our approval sheet that Co-Z Development
signed off as a IO-360 MKIV cowling says that 2 extra plies of BID (Not
5)
could be added by AeroCad during the making or the cowlings or the
builder 
could add after they receive the part.  Our choice?  We are adding this
at 
no charge.

The first paragraph of the Settlement Agreement we signed is a
"Prohibition 
Against Certain Statements" and specifically excludes either party from
making 
any public or private "derogatory statements" about the other.  We are
totally 
at loss as to why Co-Z Development has made several of his comments on
this 
forum. Especially since we do not believe any of them are justified.  
If Mr. Puffer has any questions, he should first contact us direct. 
This 
forum is not the place for this.  While we really did not want to spend
any 
more money on legal fees, we felt forced to turn this matter over to our 
attorney and have done so.

We wish to be very clear ... we strongly believe that we supply the
highest 
quality products you can buy for either the Cozy or the AeroCanard
airplanes. 
No ifs or buts.  Should you have any questions, please pick up the phone
and 
simply give us a call.

--
Jeff and Greg Russell
AeroCad Inc. 561-460-8020

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: COZY: Correction - cowlings
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 08:45:56 -0500

Dear Cozy builders,
I don't know about you, but sometimes I make a mistake and then have to
correct it. I did some digging into my records on cowlings and realized I
quoted the wrong number of reinforcing plies, for which I apologize.
Cowlings need to be reinforced around the edges to make them rigid so they
don't lose their shape and to provide more beef for fasteners. These
reinforcements are shown in Figures 12 and 15, Chapter 23, but we don't
instruct builders to install them because they are supposed to be installed
by the supplier while the cowlings are still in the mold. Featherlite makes
their cowlings with four (4) layers of BID overall, and adds two (2) extra
layers around the periphery to stiffen them. When we were asked to inspect
and approve AeroCad components in early February of this year, we inspected
some cowlings that had been shipped to our friend Lee Merlo, here in Mesa.
These cowlings did not appear to have the reinforcing layers installed. As
I recall, we discussed this with AeroCad, and they agreed to install two
(2) extra layers of BID around the periphery during manufacture, which
would make them equivalent to Featherlite cowlings in stiffness, and we
approved them on that basis on 2/15/99. Featherlite cowlings are the same
shape as ours, for tight cowling of the 0-360. AeroCad cowlings have larger
lower blisters to avoid interference with the manifolds of the IO-360.
Maybe this will serve to call attention to the fact that cowlings do need
to be strengthened along the edges, and it is best to do this while they
are still curing in the mold. A minimum of 2 layers of BID is required. You
can add more later if you wish.
Best regards,
Nat

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 21:29:55 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: COZY: 320 Crankshaft seal retainer

Quantity	Part #	Description
	2	73952		Plate, Crankshaft Oil Seal
	6	STD-1919	1/4 -20 x 9/16" long screw (Mine are hex head drilled head for safety 
wire, might be a different part number.)
	6	STD-160	1/4" Lock Washer

When replacing the seal, the one without the retainer has a ridge that fits into a groove in 
the seal counterbore, and I use the split seal that doesn't have to be stretched over the prop 
flange. The part number is 77377. The approved sealants are a Lycoming part number, and 
"Pliobond". Clean the crankcase surfaces including the groove. For some reason, my seals bake 
and get hard about every 200 hours. They only leak lightly then, enough to be a little mess on 
the cowl. My breather is located out the trailing edge of the wing, just outboard of the 
cowling. Have had a small hole in the hose adapter on the accessory case, but thought it was 
leaking oil, and got rid of it temporarily.


Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 08:23:42 -0500
From: David Domeier <david010@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: 320 Crankshaft seal retainer

Carl,

    re "For some reason, my seals bake
and get hard about every 200 hours."

    That's interesting.  I wonder what's going on.  The seal in my
engine (0360)before overhaul was 18 years old and did not leak.  The new
one started leaking at 5 hours and kept getting worse....???

dd

Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 08:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: Michael Pollock <Michael.Pollock@wcom.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: 320 Crankshaft seal retainer

re "For some reason, my seals bake
and get hard about every 200 hours."

David,

We have had the same problem with the crankcase seal on our
IO-360-C1E6 in our Velocity. We just changed out the 2nd seal and the
engine has only 325 hours SMOH. What type of oil are you using? I am
looking into the possibility that my Aeroshell 15W-50 semi-synthetic
oil is what is causing the seal to get hard. At this time, I just
don't know what is the cause. I just keep replacing the seal when it
starts leaking.

Michael.Pollock@wcom.com
Flying Velocity N173DT
Building Cozy MKIV #643
 

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: COZY: Re: Cozy stuff...
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 11:14:05 -0500

David,
Lycoming makes a seal retainer kit to install on older model Lycoming
engines. The case has to be drilled and tapped. This is quite critical to
make sure you don't drill too far. It is good insurance to install this
retainer, and better insurance to have a skilled mechanic do it. My FBO who
checks my engine each year also measures crankcase pressure with the engine
running. Blow-by past the rings causes a positive pressure in the case.
However, if you cut the breather tube at a 45 degree angle, facing aft, the
airstream, when flying, will draw a negative pressure in the case, so that
there is no pressure against the seal, and in my case, even if the seal
came loose, I still didn't leak any oil. The consequences of blowing a seal
and burning up the engine are severe enough, I like to be doubly protected.
Regards,
Nat


From: Epplin John A <EpplinJohnA@jdcorp.deere.com>
Subject: RE: COZY: Re: Cozy stuff..breather.
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 14:16:24 -0500

Another thought.  I have drilled holes in several installations for this
purpose in the past.  They have all been in downdraft cooling systems where
the breather tube was on the hot side of the engine.  I suspect that on the
Cozy this hole should be drilled close to the engine, before there is a
chance of a freezeup.  If I recall the hole is usually around 3/16 in, up to
1/4 max.  Could be a slot and bend to form a whistle like opening facing
downstream.  

John Epplin   Mk4   #467



Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 17:39:35 -0500
From: David Domeier <david010@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: 320 Crankshaft seal retainer

Mike,

    re " What type of oil are you using?"

    I'm using Phillips.

    I've contacted my engine guru at Blue Print re this subject.  I'll
pass on what he has to say about these seals.

dd

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 08:05:20 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: 320 Crankshaft seal retainer

Was said <But improper surface finish on the crank surface at the seal's interface area?>

Not in my case, a flexible seal does well for several hundred hours. When there is a little seepage I change it, and the 
sealing lip is hard. It is possible a hard seal will score the crankshaft, and should be changed promptly. With a hard seal 
lip, thermal expansion, crank end play and bearing slop (not talking much movement) cause the leakage when the lip is not able 
to conform.


Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 17:58:21 +0200
From: C van Hoof <cvh@iafrica.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: 320 Crankshaft seal retainer

Hi All,

This seal fits into a groove which cannot really be seen properly for inspection.

The advice given to me, when experiencing the same problem, was to remove the old seal, clean the groove /receiving area very
well (ten times using solvents and once more to make sure), when you think it is clean, then clean again with MEK ? not sure on
this trade name, i used acetone, then use white glove to check all around. Then pull the seal over the flange and make sure the
spring inside is not damaged during this process. Then apply Pliobond (this is ex the motor's manual) and do not use any other,
apply to both surfaces and insert when tacky.

After having paid for this service on three occasions before, this time it was successful for 200 hrs till now ... you just
can't get good staff these days :-)

My 02c, and this was on an O-360 tractor with CSU.

Advice was obtained from our local aerobatic crowd, who have this problem regularly.

Hope this helps some.

Chris

snip
The subject has been on Lycoming 320 and 360's crankshaft oil seal. This is the crankshaft end nearest the propeller.
snip


From: SWrightFLY@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 12:16:25 EDT
Subject: COZY: Re:Engine downdraft Cooling

My 0-360 A1A will be down draft cooled with NACA scoops on top of the cowl in 
front of the forward cylinders which will guide air into a fiberglass plenum 
built over the top of the engine similar to the Velocity cooling design.  The 
air will then be forced around the cylinders. Bill James has had good cooling 
results with this design and reports his engine may even run to cool. Has 
anyone else had good results from this or similar downdraft cooling designs.
Steve Wright
Stagger EZ 
N700EZ

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:26:52 -0400
From: "L. Wayne Hicks" <lwhicks@erols.com>
Subject: COZY: Re:Engine downdraft Cooling

SWrightFLY@aol.com wrote:
Has
> anyone else had good results from this or similar downdraft cooling designs.
> Steve Wright
> Stagger EZ
> N700EZ

----------> Check out George Shell's downdraft cooling @
http://www.geocities.com/~kleb/homebuilt/shell.  George's system really
works and his plane is fast!

Wayne Hicks
Cozy IV #678, Chapter 18
http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/2027

Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 02:04:27 -0400
Subject: COZY: Re: [c-a] Re:Engine downdraft Cooling
From: Art Bianconi <british-biplane@juno.com>

Jon Roncz gave me a pressure distribution plot colored from red to blue.
That was about 15 years ago. According to that plot, the place to put the
inlets is exactly where you cited: on the lead side of the top cowling
right where the engine blisters face forward, not on top 

The use of effective NACA scoops on top does not appear feasable since
the formula for optimization of the NACA principle places the needed
plenum too far aft to be contained in the existing cowling blister
geometry. Anything short enough to fit will have too small an annulus to
supply the air needed. For NACA's to be effective, you need to maintain
air flow.

A simple opening, formed to emulate those designed by Lo Presti for the
Grumman Tiger and Commanche, appear to offer the  best  cooling with the
least drag.


From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:48:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: COZY: Prop bolt gaulling

Would like to know of anyone who has had a problem with Saber (Woofter) extension and bolts 
gaulling (fretting or metal tearing from the threads leaving a rough surface and file metal 
filings). Were the threads lubricated, or dry per aviation standards, how old is the extension, 
does it have cad plated or stainless steel inserts for the prop bolts. How was alignment of the 
prop holes, did the bolts engage treads and turn by hand most of the way in?

If you know someone who is not regular on this list, pleas pass on to them, or me. 

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 08:40:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: COZY: Prop extension inspection

Anyone that has their prop extension, crush plate and bolts, I would like the following 
inspection results:

1:With the mounting flange up, set the crush plate on the lugs, and install all bolts until a 
thread protrudes the lug on the bottom. All bolts should go in easily with fingers, and the 
crush plate should be loose in the oversize holes.

2: Raise the crush plate parallel to the flange to just under the bolt heads. (could use a 
couple of 2x4 blocks for spacers to hold position) Not counting the binding that occurs when 
th4e crush plate is not parallel, the bolts should still turn easily by hand, and still have 
some sideways movement of the crush plate. Its possible to have a bolt that is slightly bent 
or has threads that are not concentric to the bolt shank that may turn up as you try turning 
the bolts. If possible don't use the bent bolt, its possible to move a bolt to another hole, 
and still have valid results. Also by removing bolts one at a time its possible to isolate a 
misaligned lug.    

I'm looking for lug threads that are not perpendicular to the mounting flange, and will 
publish much more detail in a few days. Please send me your results good and bad, and hold 
any further action until I am able to conclude my findings.

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Crimping flexible hoses terminations
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 12:09:45 -0600

Dear Benoit,
Aeroquip has about 5 shops around the USA where they crimp fittings on
their hoses, pressure test, and certify. We are fortunate to have one,
Varga Enterprises, quite near by in Chandler, AZ. I talked to Jim Varga
this morning and he said that he can do this for you. He guessed that 6
hoses would probably take about 1/2 hour and the cost would be
approximately $20. He said that in order to certify them (to satisfy the
FAA) they have to be able to trace where and when the hose was made, which
they wouldn't be able to do in your case, and which you don't need anyway
because it will go on a homebuilt aircraft. They crimp the fittings,
pressure test, and install a tag showing when tested and hose
identification, if available. Send atten: Jim Varga, 2350 So. Airport
Blvd., Chandler AZ 85249 Tel (480)963-6936
Regards,
Nat
----------
> From: lecoqben <lecoqben@club-internet.fr>
> To: cozy_builders <cozy_builders@canard.com>
> Subject: COZY: Crimping flexible hoses terminations
> Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 11:14 AM
> 
>  Hello everybody
> 
> Not very talkative on the web. I decided I would rather switch on the
> turbo-booster worker on my airplane to finish up.
> I bought my hangar lot at the airport today. Engine installation is now
> finished. Painting is also finished. The result with flight gloss
> polyfiber is not marvellous but I decided to fly ASAP, check the
> behavior of the airplane and have it fine tuned and then fine painted in
> an airport and in a paint booth afterward.
> 
> I am planning on moving the plane to the airport before the end of the
> year.
> I am left with the electrical harness to set up. (Every electrical item
> is in and botted)
> Hum! Getting close.
> 
> I still have a problem with crimping the hose terminals on the flexible
> hoses.
> I ordered per Nat's plans, 666-4, -6, -8 hoses with AE21496 -E, -G, -H
> terminals.
> They are cut to proper length and fully inserted, ready to crimp.
> Trouble is that Aeroquip in France is only working on large scale hose
> manufacturing, and reluctant to handle my 6 hoses.
> Plus they are very far away from Paris.
> 
> Any address in U.S.A of where I could have them crimped with proper
> tooling at reasonable cost.
> I am ready to send the parts overseas to wherever it could be worked
> out.
> Nat , how did you do yours?
> Thanks for any help.
> 
>  Benoit LECOQ.
> 

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 07:33:16 -0600
From: vance atkinson <nostromo56@home.com>
Subject: COZY: Baffled by baffling



Ken, send me your fax number and I will draw you a picture of how
my baffling fits the cylinders.  I essence I have a "cuff" around 
each cylinder barrel that covers about 85% of it. This fits
very tightly with NO leaks.   I have not used upper
 probes as the difference seems to be 50 to 75degrees more, (taken
from readings that Mike Melville took several years ago, and some   
work that the LA chapter did with Dick Kridel ( the taming of the
shrew).
Then, if you take a cessna or piper  and measure the heat, its about 
the same.   My cylinders run about 320 to 330 F in cruise, measured on 
the bottom with a bayonet type digital probe and gauge......After 14 
years of flying I did by NEW Millennium cylinders and I'm here to tell
you, its the way to go.  I have a fuel injected electronic ignition
(two)
0320 Lyc. engine in my COZY with 1400 hours on it. The Electronic
Ignition causes the average cylinder temp to rise 10 to 30 degrees
depending on how hard you are running it.  As you know, the more 
advance you use the longer the flame stays in the cylinder, thus 
heating the cylinder longer. ( and producing more power). 
Vance Atkinson



Once again I would appreciate any feedback on this aspect of the
engine
cooling. To the best of my knowledge, the O-235 installation with the
original NACA scoop has never had temperature related problems, so I
am
baffled as to why I should be the only one with baffling problems.

Ken Clunis

N345KJ

From: "D. Rothrock" <rdrock@gte.net>
Subject: COZY: Fuel injection servo
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 06:11:27 -0500

Hi Group,
After seeing an earlier post regarding fuel injection servo positioning, I
started questioning my arrangement.
My fuel injection servo is mounted on a 90 deg elbow that is attached to the
sump between the engine & the firewall.  It hangs down to within an 1 1/2"
from the lower cowl (the air inlet is facing the lower cowl).  The naca
scoop is 5 1/2 inches away.
My concerns are: Is it necessary to have an air filter? (I know of several
Velocity's that fly without them)
Is it necessary to have "ram air"? Do you get ram air with a filter
installed?
And, for those of you with a similar installation. What air filter did you
use?
Thanks, Don   rdrock@gte.net






Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 10:35:28 -0500
Subject: Re: COZY: Fuel injection servo
From: "Paul Comte" <pcomte@thepark.net>

Don wrote:

<snip>

> My concerns are: Is it necessary to have an air filter? (I know of several
> Velocity's that fly without them)

You will be operating from hard surface which will have all sorts of sand,
grit and sundry abrasive materials coating it.  You may not see that as a
big risk but eventually you will pick up a "problem".

Last year at My Convention we were lucky enough to taxi behind a P-51 for
about a mile of ground flying.  [a very beautiful bird from any angle]   You
could hear stuff hitting the plane and see grass etc flipping around us as
he snaked along.

I'll run a filter with alternate air source.  If the reduced flow (some say
very small effect) is expected to be a power robber then maybe consider the
filter for ground operations and as the alternate air source.  The direct
flow is for flying.

I still want a screen to keep bugs/screws/whatever from the "free" intake.

Paul Comte
Milwaukee, WI 

From: "dewayne morgan" <dmorgan@mis.net>
Subject: COZY: I need your advice
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:56:13 -0500

I have found an engine  from a trusted friend. I really want  a io-360 but
this is a really great deal. 

your comments would be greatly appreciated. here is the email i got:

(could i put higher compression pistons in this?)




Dwayne:
The 0-320 I have is a 160 hp that came out of a 172 first run.  It was
replaced with a bigger engine, and there for was not damage or prop strike.
 It seems that the engine has about 2000 hrs, but  compression was good.
You could probley still get another 200 hrs or more.  I have all the log
books to day one, and over haul manuals for the engine.

The only negative is that it has the dual mags on one drive.  A terrible
idea that Cessna and Lycoming came up with.  My plan was to convert to one
mag, and use electronic for the other, and do away with the single drive.

I paid about 3800 for the engine and overhaul manuals, and couple of
hundred for freight and crating.  If you want it I would take my money
back.

I have not run the engine, so am only repeating what the seller told me.

Let me know if you have an interest.



From: "John Slade" <rjslade@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: I need your advice
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:37:04 -0500

DeWayne,
If I remember correctly, you're still on Chapter 4.
It's never good for an engine to sit for an extended period of time.
I'd recommend holding off buying you're engine to you have most of the
airframe done and ready for primer. Based on build times of others, this
could be anywhere from one to nine years away. Inthe meantime, if someone
taxied onto a ramp and offered to sell you their perfect low-time engine at
a price you couldn't refuse - maybe it would be a good idea - otherwise wait
till you're almost ready to install before buying.

my 2c.
John Slade, Cozy MKIV #757, progress: http://kgarden.com/cozy
West Palm Beach, FL



From: "ZEITLIN,MARC (A-Andover,ex1)" <marc_zeitlin@agilent.com>
Subject: COZY: I need your advice
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:25:28 -0700

Dewayne Morgan wrote:

> I have found an engine  from a trusted friend. I really want  
> a io-360 but this is a really great deal. 

IF the compression is still good and the engine runs, it sounds like a very
good deal - it's less than the core price, I believe, even for an O-320.

It would certainly be good for the first 40 hours to have a known working
engine - Nat has said this many times.  You probably won't be flying
anywhere near gross weight during that time period (unless you're planning
on carrying a lot of bricks with you - you can't take 3 other people :-) ),
so the 20 HP won't be a big deal (and the O-320 is a recommended engine for
the COZY anyway).

It all boils down to how much power you actually want.  As you say, after 50
- 100 hours you'll probably want to get the engine rebuilt anyway, and when
you do that you can have it upgraded to put out more power (at the risk of
not being able to use auto fuel if the compression is too high), add
electronic ignition, and fuel injection.

Remember, you'll end up paying for the engine one way or another, either up
front or in a rebuild.

My $0.02.

--
Marc J. Zeitlin         marc_zeitlin@alum.mit.edu
                        http://cozy.canard.com

    Non Impediti Ratione Cogitantonis (C&C)

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 17:49:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: COZY: I need your advice

The "H" 320 is not the best engine, but could do a decent job as it has demonstrated?? Check the log books for history, did it 
go that time without any major work? This engine seem to prefer regular running with no idle periods. The bigger issue than 
the mags seem to be lubrication to the cam and valve train. There are some modifications available in that area. There are 
some other quirks with this engine, if you can find the copy of "TBO Advisor" magazine that discussed this engine. The article 
is aimed at those that are stuck with the engine.

Examine the log books in detail, no log books, I wouldn't buy it. You may want to sell it some day, and that will enhance the 
value.

Can't take one mag off. Both mags are in one housing, and I think its the only mag that will fit the mount. Might be able to 
take out for one mag, the coils, etc. saving a little weight, but would need someone educated to do that. 

Check the weight, I think its heavier than the lower weight ones.


From: Militch@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 22:14:29 EST
Subject: COZY: Re: [c-a] "HELP" Ellison TBI / MAP Hookup

In a message dated 12/28/99 10:09:47 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
GDwinal@Fisherplows.com writes:

<< so.  There is a little plastic tube that runs from the venturi area of
 the TBI to a diaphragm on the side of the unit.  It would appear that I
 would have to "tap" into that source,  but I would want some type of
  >>
If you need to see manifold pressure, you may not get it from a tube near the 
venturi.  I don't know the specific point you are monitoring there, but it 
would need to be below the throttle butterfly to read true manifold vacuum 
all the time.  That means that any outlet or port on the manifold itself 
would be a good place to read the vacuum.  Is such a port available on the 
manifold?

Regards

From: SWrightFLY@aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:17:08 EST
Subject: COZY: Re: [c-a] "HELP" Ellison TBI / MAP Hookup

In a message dated 12/28/99 9:31:40 PM Central Standard Time, 
GDwinal@Fisherplows.com writes:

<< It would appear that I
 would have to "tap" into that source,  but I would want some type of
 confirmation before I cut into that line.  Ellison is apparently shut
 down for the week as they are not answering their phone.  
  >>
Gary.........What has the manufactruer of the Jeff Rose ignition system said 
to do when ask this question? If his plans are not clear on this he might 
apprecriate being made aware of this.
Steve Wright
Stagger EZ N700EZ
AirBike...Ultralight 
EAA Technical Advisor
Wright Aircraft Works LLC <A HREF="http://www.canard.com/noselift/">Wright 
Aircraft Works LLC: Electric Nose-Lift for EZEs</A> 
Sponsor- Canard Aviators  <A HREF="www.canard.com">canard Aviators page</A>

From: Epplin John A <EpplinJohnA@jdcorp.deere.com>
Subject: COZY: RE: [c-a] "HELP" Ellison TBI / MAP Hookup
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:20:23 -0600


	[Epplin John A]  snip
>  There is a little plastic tube that runs from the venturi area of
> the TBI to a diaphragm on the side of the unit.  It would appear that I
> would have to "tap" into that source,  but I would want some type of
> confirmation before I cut into that line.  Ellison is apparently shut
> down for the week as they are not answering their phone.  
> 
> Gary Dwinal
> 
> 
>                 
	[Epplin John A]  
	Gary:

	Do not cut into that line.  This will give you carb inlet pressure,
not mainfold pressure.  On the O-360 cylinder heads there are two 1/8 in
pipe plugs, one on the top and one on the bottom, these are on the intake
valve side.  Any one of these can be used for manifold pressure.  I am
assuming you are using the upper ones for priming, so pick a lower one for
MAP.

	John Epplin   Mk4   #467


Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 10:21:33 -0600
From: David Domeier <david010@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: Re: [c-a] "HELP" Ellison TBI / MAP Hookup

Gary,

    I have the same set up - Ellison with Jeff Rose ignition and the
Vision Micro system.

    I considered taping into one of the intake manifold pipes for MP,
but hooked it up at the bottom injection hole on the #4 cylinder head.
(The top plug is used for prime)

    It works - most of the time.

    I think the problem I am having - an occasional erratic MP
indication - could be caused by fuel getting into the line and not
finding a way out.  I've been told Cessna uses a sump in the line to
correct this problem.   It is like a small bottle with fittings to
accommodate the .25" inch vacuum line.

    I have noticed, however, the erratic MP does not affect DIS timing.
The DIS angle meter remains quite steady even if MP indication drops to
zero.  So it could be an electric problem to Vision Micro.

    Anyway,  do not tape into the Ellison plumbing.  It will screw up
that unit for sure.  Use one of the plugs on the cylinder head.

dd



Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 06:55:42 +0000
Subject: Re: COZY: Re: [c-a] "HELP" Ellison TBI / MAP Hookup
From: mark w beduhn <mbeduhn@juno.com>

I installed mine the same way with the same problem (fuel in the vacuum
line - which migrated to the vm-1000 transducer).  I solved the problem
by installing a small vacuum accumulator in the line going to the VM-1000
and the electronic ignition.  I located the accumulator at a higher
elevation than the engine, and located the inlet port on the bottom (of
the accumulator) so that any fuel that entered the accumulator would
drain back into the engine.

Mark Beduhn
Cozy IV N494CZ  

