From: "Stanley Magill" <vaportrails@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: COZY: Spraylat
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 06:04:33 -0800

How have others on this list removed the spraylat on their 
canopy. I have applied warm water and soap to my canopy and cannot 
get all the spraylat off

Stan Magill   vaportrails@worldnet.att.net

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 09:42:35 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Spraylat

Try adding a coat or 2 of spraylat on top of existing. Try a small area 
first. Is you problem that it comes off in small thin pieces, if so, added 
thickness will help. If you problem is bond to the plexiglass, the added may 
help soften. Careful of using chemicals, some will cause long term crazing of 
the plexiglass

Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 23:46:40 -0600
From: Rob and Carla Kittler <rkck@mindspring.com>
Subject: COZY: Spraylat for canopy

Does anyone (Nat included)  have any thoughts on why the inside of the
canopy should be coated with spraylat instead of just leaving it covered
with the plastic it was shipped with? If coated with the spraylat, is it
left on the canopy until completion?

Knowledgable input from those who have already completed their canopies
would be appreciated. Feel free to reply privately.

Thanks bunches

Rob

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 04:29:41 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Spraylat for canopy

Yes its left on until the end for protection from paint, scratches, dust, etc. I just used a paint 
brush to apply at least 4 coats. One or two coats could be difficult. leave dry between coats say 
overnignt or morning and then late afternoon or evening. If its going to be on there for more than 2 
or 3 years, would suggest removing and putting new on, have been cases where difficult to remove.

From: "Bill Kastenholz" <wkasty@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: COZY: Turtleback
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 11:17:30 -0500

<x-html>
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=text/html;charset=iso-8859-1 http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META content='"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=GENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT size=3>I'm setting up 
to begin the turtleback construction.&nbsp; Chapter 18 says to use masking 
tape</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2><FONT size=3>on the foam joints to keep epoxy 
from seeping through to the outside. Does this tape remain</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2><FONT size=3>on the foam?&nbsp; This doesn't 
seem to follow building procedures for the rest of the 
airplane.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2><FONT size=3></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2><FONT size=3>Bill Kastenholz 
</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2><FONT 
size=3>wkasty@ix.netcom.com</FONT></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
</x-html>
From ???@??? Thu Jan 21 22:29:45 1999
Return-Path: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com
Received: from twc2.betaweb.com (majordomo@betaweb.com [206.43.209.18]) by acestes-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult/n20340/mtc.v2) with ESMTP id SAA26786 for <marcz@burnside.ma.ultranet.com>; Thu, 21 Jan 1999 18:37:22 -0500 (EST)
Received: (from majordomo@localhost)
	by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) id SAA22051
	for cozy_builders-list; Thu, 21 Jan 1999 18:35:20 -0500
X-Authentication-Warning: twc2.betaweb.com: majordomo set sender to owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com using -f
Received: from m4.boston.juno.com (m4.boston.juno.com [205.231.101.198])
	by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id SAA22034
	for <cozy_builders@canard.com>; Thu, 21 Jan 1999 18:35:10 -0500
From: alwick@juno.com
Received: (from alwick@juno.com)
 by m4.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id DZH9JY6S; Thu, 21 Jan 1999 18:29:09 EST
To: cozy_builders@canard.com
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 15:28:38 -0800
Subject: COZY: New canopy latch sys
Message-ID: <19990121.152851.-106397.0.Alwick@juno.com>
X-Mailer: Juno 2.0.11
X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 3-4,9-10,14,18,20-22,24-29
X-Juno-Att: 0
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Sender: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: alwick@juno.com
X-UIDL: 9713424510573ad361d4c25fc08af2f4

I've gone to a great deal of effort to develop a new way to latch your
canopy. Just letting you guys know it's available. I posted 1 email to
canard group and got inundated with orders, but never mentioned it to
this group. Finally caught up on orders.

It eliminates the fuselage access door (no more blue fingers), eliminates
the alum brackets attached to your instrument panel. No more torn pants
trying to enter/ exit fuselage. It allows canopy to be opened from
exterior if pilot incapacitated, also allows back seat passenger to open
canopy,. It's attractive, most components are hidden from view.

Most important, it uses proven auto technology to replace the 'safety
catch' in the plans. Very positive safety with "safe interlock" that
prevents accidentally opening the canopy. The exterior of the fuselage
now has flush mounted push button LOCK. 
Best part, it's inexpensive ( $90 complete kit) and I will continue to
ship it with no money up front. Everyone I've dealt with has been very
honest. You don't like it, then send it back with my $3 shipping.
Obviously no risk for you.
Downside, after first 3 orders, I will be VERY SLOW to deliver. The parts
come from 2 obscure model vehicles (used).

Email me privately if interested. 
PS. I had harddrive crash and lost name of last person on waiting list.
Let me know if it was you.

-al wick
Cozy sn 389,  88% complete. Wiring and sanding.
Using stock Subaru 2.5 ltr.
Replacing most instrum. with Artificial Intelligence.

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

From: cozy623@juno.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 17:54:15 -0700
Subject: COZY: canopy hinge

Does anybody know if the hinge is coated with something and I should not
polish it on the parts that will show?  Jeb

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:02:12 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: canopy hinge

My Wicks catalog says the extruded piano hinge is anodized. Usually the 
anodizing imparts a yellowish tint to the aluminum, though many colors are 
possible. The anodizing is a corrosion resistant finish. Don't remove it.

From: alwick@juno.com
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 18:24:55 -0800
Subject: COZY: Strake leading edge

Anyone have a cad image of strake leading edge, or maybe a scanned image
of template? 
I'd like to make sure leading edge is correct. I'm at the sanding point.
Seems I no longer have my strake rib templates.  Guess I cleaned the
garage a little too well.
Would sure appreciate it.

-al wick
Canopy Latch System guy.
 Artificial Intelligence in Cockpit
Cozy sn 389 driven by stock Subaru 2.5 ltr.88% complete.

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

From: alwick@juno.com
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 19:14:00 -0800
Subject: COZY: Canopy strut location

I relocated my canopy strut (again). Really pleased with new location. It
saves you from having to order special strut...just pick up any gas strut
(darned near) at auto parts. It also is positioned such that it doesn't
block rear seat entry. It's pretty much hidded from view. I'm using 25"
long strut c to center I purchased for $1 from auto store at their
sidewalk sale.

If I open my canopy to the full 63 degrees from horizontal, you can just
see the top of the strut projecting behind the passenger head rest. The
anchor point is behind the canopy rib. I just floxed small wood into the
seat back. In line with the centerline of the head rest.
When canopy is closed, the strut lays horizontal behind the canopy rib.
Totally hidden from view. See the pictograph



             x
             x      <-- strut at open position.
             x
             /\                                            /\
           / ;  \         head rests->        /   \
-------/   ;   \----------------------------/      \ ----------  
strut->  xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Well, you get the idea. Actually the strut is adjacent to the top to the
seat back.
Unable to find any drawbacks to this change. It appears to take around 10
lbs to lift canopy. Just about right.

I started out with 2 extra struts. 1 died on my workbench from old age
(used). I dripped epoxy on the other when it was installed. Closed the
canopy and heard this strange hisssssing.....
FWIW

-al wick
Canopy Latch System guy.
Artificial Intelligence in Cockpit
Cozy sn 389 driven by stock Subaru 2.5 ltr.88% complete.

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 23:05:14 -0500
From: Bill Theeringer <Composite_Aircraft_Accessories@compuserve.com>
Subject: COZY: Canopy Strut

Greetings;

I also installed a neat little gas spring on the canopy that pivots about a
point where the roll over structure meets the seat back, right side.  This
point allows the spring to push the canopy closed and open and is neutral
with the canopy opened to about the 10 o'clock position.  One fine day at
Sun-N-Fun I couldn't get into my airplane.  The gas spring's pressure
caused the arrow stock to separate and bowed the canopy out forcing the
latches into each other.  I almost had to take a taxi home.  Be sure this
material is sound and that the ends are securely attached to the canopy
skin.  I later replaced the arrow stock with a piece of rigid aluminum
tubing.

Bill Theeringer
N29EZ

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: COZY: canopy gas strut placement
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 08:51:42 -0600

Builders,
It sounds to me like Al Wick has figured out some good geometry. I tried
several locations and learned a couple of things which might be worth
passing on. 
1) The gas strut puts pressure on the structure. So don't select a strut
that applies so much force that it busts the structure (it can happen). Or
the converse, beef up the structure enough that the strut won't bust it.
Mostly in the closed position, the strut is trying to push the bulkhead
away from the shell of the turtleback, and away from the hinge.
2) The second thing I learned is that if the canopy becomes unlocked and
the safety latch doesn't catch it (it can happen), there is a huge negative
pressure (it is called lift) above the canopy that is trying to open it and
slam it against the strake with buko damage to strake and canopy and prop.
It can do this with so much force that it rips away any restraining
mechanism. This has happened a few times with Variezes and Long EZs. It has
caused a few fatalities, too. With the gas strut, the canopy will open only
just so fast, and actually the strut slows it down before reaching its
limit of travel. When Jim Patton was flight testing our Mark IV N14CZ, he
forgot to latch the canopy, the safety catch (people keep bending it)
didn't catch, and the canopy opened all the way up and stabilized in the
upright position. Jim flew it back that way and landed with it open. I
couldn't believe it! What an airplane, and what a pilot!
Nat

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: COZY: Gas strut placement
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 09:19:54 -0600

Builders,
This is a PS: to my last message on the same subject.
One thing I was trying to achieve by attaching the gas spring on the
headrest above the shoulder support about 6 inches or so was to get the gas
strut to hold the canopy closed, just in case I (or someone else) neglected
to latch the canopy. What I learned is that there is so much negative
pressure (lift) above the canopy that the pressure exerted by the gas strut
by itself wasn't enough to hold the canopy closed. This doesn't mean it
wasn't a good idea, just that it wasn't good enough.
Nat

From: alwick@juno.com
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 11:28:23 -0800
Subject: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location

Nat said:  ....significant pressure on canopy.

To add to Nats statement.....  I suspect that the pressure caused by the
slipstream on a  normally closed canopy is relatively insignificant.
However, when the canopy is allowed to open in flight, all of a sudden
you have an extra wing. The open canopy would be an excellent example of
an undercambered wing. Just speculating here, but I bet that baby would
want to fly!
Instead of adding Fowler flaps, maybe we all could just open canopy on
final ;-)

-al
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 14:53:57 -0500
From: bil kleb <w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location

alwick@juno.com wrote:
> 
> I suspect that the pressure caused by the slipstream on a normally
> closed canopy is relatively insignificant.

definitely not true if the fuselage is indeed a lifting body.

-- 
bil <mailto:w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov>

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 15:07:48 -0600

Builders,
Now that we are talking about it, the Cozy Mark IV is wider than the Long
EZ, and has more fuselage lift, and that is why we have a slightly shorter
c.g. range, a little less canard airfoil, and a little more incidence on
the canard. And that is why I tell people that the fuselage width on the
Cozy is about as far as I would be willing to expand the Long EZ. I know
the Velocity is wider, but the aerodynamics of the Velocity are completely
different.
Regards,
Nat

----------
> From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
> To: w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov; cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject: Re: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location
> Date: Tuesday, February 23, 1999 4:03 PM
> 
> On 02/23/99 14:53:57 you wrote:
> >
> >alwick@juno.com wrote:
> >> 
> >> I suspect that the pressure caused by the slipstream on a normally
> >> closed canopy is relatively insignificant.
> >
> >definitely not true if the fuselage is indeed a lifting body.
> >
> >-- 
> >
> 
> While working on mine, I assumed that the canopy plan area was a lifting
surface, if I remember, 
> took the wing loading and came up with around 300 lbs uplift on the
canopy. Not a very precise way, 
> but probably an upper limit on the number. If the canopy is slightly
open, that number will reduce 
> considerably as air spills in. I do know that in flight with the front
hinged canopy and 6 latches, 
> and the usual mechanical advantage of the lever, I couldn't relatch in
flight. Probably each latch 
> had in excess of 30 lbs. on it, so maybe that number is close.
> 

Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 16:49:34 -0500 (EST)
From: "George A. Graham" <ca266@freenet.buffalo.edu>
Subject: COZY: Canopy Lift

from Al:
> > I suspect that the pressure caused by the slipstream on a normally
> > closed canopy is relatively insignificant.

>  from bil:
> definitely not true if the fuselage is indeed a lifting body.

My airplane has the canopy hinged in the front.  I have flown with it
unlocked, it doesn't lift much. It could be that the airstream pushing
it down is offset or equaled by the lift, I'm not sure.  

  However, it does add weight to the nose when raising  or lowering 
the nose gear.  In my case, I have the latch handle so that it holds
the canopy open enough to reach in for the gear switch, that also 
works nice during warm weather taxi.

My point is only that it doesn't take much to keep it closed.

George Graham
RX-7 Powered EZ, N4449E
ca266@freenet.buffalo.edu

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 16:25:43 -0600

Builders,
Don't you dare open your canopy on purpose while flying! There have been
people killed that way! Not yet in a Cozy, and I would like to see that
record remain unblemished.
Nat

----------
> From: alwick@juno.com
> To: cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location
> Date: Tuesday, February 23, 1999 5:34 PM
> 
> On Tue, 23 Feb 1999 11:28:23 -0800 Alwick@juno.com writes:
> 
> >Bill said:  ....slipstream may apply significant pressure on canopy.
> >
> 
> Easy to prove one way or the other. Just need to hold onto canopy release
> handle while flying. Use spring gage to measure handle force needed to
> keep closed. Then just calculate the moment arm X force. Bingo!
> 
> 
> -al wick
> Canopy Latch System guy.
>  Artificial Intelligence in Cockpit
> Cozy sn 389 driven by stock Subaru 2.5 ltr.88% complete.
> 
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

From: sdbish@juno.com
Subject: COZY: Canopy strut location
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 19:28:35 EST

 alwick@juno.com  wrote:

.....  I suspect that the pressure caused by the slipstream on a 
normally closed canopy is relatively insignificant.

I question this.   A personal experience in an Aero Commander Lark  180 
(fueslage and wing much like a C-182 if you are not familiar with the
Lark),   after a slightly hard landing (by my son,  of course),   I could
hardly make the   plane fly.   After a quick and tight return to the
field,  struggling to hold altitude,   found the hard landing had popped
th top of the wind screen out of the C-slot into which it fit.    While
trying,  the top of the wind screen would lift sufficiently to spoil the
airflow over the fuselage,  spoiling enough lift, the plane would almost
not fly.   I found this surprising,  considering a some 40-45"  wide
fuselage on a 36' or so wing span.

Marvin Bishop

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 17:31:16 -0500
From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" <marcz@ultranet.com>
Subject: Fwd: Re: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location

bil kleb writes;
>
>alwick@juno.com wrote:
>> 
>> I suspect that the pressure caused by the slipstream on a normally
>> closed canopy is relatively insignificant.
>
>definitely not true if the fuselage is indeed a lifting body.

I'd argue that it's definitely not true whether or not the fuselage is a
lifting body.  Take a look at the Sport Aviation articles by David Lednicer
in the past year or two.  There are numerous pressure plots of airflow over
different airplanes.  IIRC, in all cases there is a significant
underpressure on the canopy area, due to the increase in free stream
velocity needed to get around the bulge in the fuselage (Bernoulli at work
again).  The canopy WANTS to pop open, one way or the other.

--
Marc J. Zeitlin           marcz@ultranet.com
                          http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/

Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 08:21:04 +0200
From: "Rego Burger" <BurgerR@telkom.co.za>
Subject: COZY: Canopy opening

What also helps to pop canopies open is positive pressure inside the
cabin...from holes vents etc. The canopy area is almost 50% of the
fuselage top and a good few lbs/sq" will pop it up like a jack in the
box  with the aid of the low pressures outside.

What would be nice is to have a slightly lower pressure in the cabin to
keep it shut but this almost impossible.
Bottom line, whatever the explanation, canopies flying open can be
pretty dangerous so take precautions. ( safe flying )
:-)



Rego Burger
RSA

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Acryllic tape
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 18:47:30 -0600

Lori,
Don't use masking tape or box sealing tape. Look for a thin, smooth,
plastic tape that stretches. It probably will have acrylic adhesive. Put
some on a piece of plexi out in the sun for a couple of days. If it peels
off easily without leaving a residue, it is okay to use. 
Nat

----------
> From: Lori Cruger <tazcat@zebra.net>
> To: cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject: COZY: Acryllic tape
> Date: Sunday, February 28, 1999 5:50 PM
> 
> A good sunday evening to all. My husband and I are in Chapter 18 working
> on the canopy and are not sure what tape to buy. The plans call for a
> plastic tape with acrylic adhesive to use. If anyone can give us a brand
> name and where purchase it would be of  great help. Or at least tell us
> what kind worked for you. If all goes well we should be airborne by
> years end. Wish us luck. Thanks in advance for the help.
>                 Lori Cruger
> 

Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 23:26:10 -0500
From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" <marcz@ultranet.com>
Subject: Fwd: Re: COZY: Acryllic tape

Lori Cruger

>...... The plans call for a
>> plastic tape with acrylic adhesive to use. If anyone can give us a brand
>> name and where purchase it would be of  great help.

I have found that 3M black electrical tape will stick to the acrylic canopy
and leave no residue upon removal, even after a couple of years.

I believe that this topic has been discussed previously and can be found in
the archives, and possibly in the FAQ.

See:

   http://cozy.canard.com/mail_list/

--
Marc J. Zeitlin           marcz@ultranet.com
                          http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 21:53:32 -0700
From: Bruce McElhoe <brucem@theworks.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Canopy locking and opening

Mara,

Al Wick makes a dandy canopy latch system.  A few months ago he wrote:

"I've gone to a great deal of effort to develop a new way to latch your 
canopy. It eliminates the fuselage access door (no more blue fingers),
eliminates the alum brackets attached to your instrument panel. No more
torn pants trying to enter/ exit fuselage. It allows canopy to be opened
from exterior if pilot incapacitated, also allows back seat passenger to
open canopy,. It's attractive, most components are hidden from view.
Most important, it uses proven auto technology to replace the 'safety 
catch' in the plans. Very positive safety with "safe interlock" that 
prevents accidentally opening the canopy. The exterior of the fuselage 
now has flush mounted push button LOCK. 
Best part, it's inexpensive ( $90 complete kit) and I will continue to 
ship it with no money up front. Everyone I've dealt with has been very 
honest. You don't like it, then send it back with my $3 shipping. 
Obviously no risk for you. 

-al wick"

He's at <alwick@juno.com>

Bruce McElhoe   Long-EZ  N64MC
Reedley, Calif.


Mara Liston wrote:
>Does anybody have any information or ideas about ways to open, close 
>and lock the canopy?  A while back we saw some pictures of a Cozy 
>that only had a small key hole in the canopy which locked it and 
>looked pretty cool so we delayed putting in the door.  We are about 
>to go ahead and cut the door because we can't figure out how just a 
>lock could open it enough to get any fingers in, let alone unlatch 
>the safety catch on the handle.
>
>Ideally, we would want it to be possible for someone to open it from 
>the outside in an emergency without a key, but we need to be able to 
>lock it from the outside too. 
>
>I'm not sure there is a perfect and simple system, but does any one 
>have any thoughts before we cut the door?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mara Liston
>N559CZ
>


From: David de Sosa <d-desosa@raytheon.com>
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 16:18:02 -0700

I have a friend building a Cozy MKIV who wants to install a forward hinged
canopy instead of the side mount plans version.  He also wants to reinforce
the underside of the canopy with carbon fiber over the foam on either side.
He wants to know if there is a reason why the instrument panel cuts through
the underside canopy foam or if the panel can be cut flush with the height
of the longerons along its edges so that he can lay the carbon fiber straight
across the underside foam on the canopy.
 
Would he be compromising strength or any other unforeseen issue by doing this?

David de Sosa
Cozy MKIV# 080

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 17:02:01 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: COZY: Re: 

Was asked <if there is a reason why the instrument panel cuts through the underside canopy foam>

If I understand, this is the instrument panel that is above the channel stiffener, above the upper longerons. This is valuable  
panel space, an excellent spot to mount switches, warning lights, intercoms, air vents, etc. This has nothing to do with the 
front hinged canopy. I would not also decrease the spacing between the two channel stiffeners of the instrument panel, the 
height is necessary to mount two 3.125" instruments (directional gyro and horizon, and others) above each other. Also radios 
like this clearance. 

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 17:09:38 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: COZY: Front Hinged canopy

Was said: I have a friend building a Cozy MKIV who wants to install a forward hinged canopy instead of the side mount plans 
version.  

I would like to add, he should purchase from Uli Woelter for $25 the front hinged details. All the details are worked out, and 
it works well! Not a place for the blind to lead the blind.

From: "Russ Fisher" <rfisher1@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Front Hinged canopy
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 22:40:26 -0400

Carl Denk wrote:

>I would like to add, he should purchase from Uli Woelter for $25 the front
hinged details. All the details are worked out, and
>it works well! Not a place for the blind to lead the blind.

Carl,

What advantages have you found with the front hinge?  At first glance it
would seem to hinder entering and exiting the cockpit, not to mention you
have to make two sets of latches.  Are these latches interlinked or do you
have an access door on each side of the fuselage?

Russ Fisher


From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 04:04:52 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Front Hinged canopy

Was asked:
>What advantages have you found with the front hinge?  

Passenger and pilot can get in or out independent of the other, better ventilation on the ground while protecting from light 
rain (on the safety catch the aft is open several inches), better access to inside of cabin and instrument panel.

At first glance it >would seem to hinder entering and exiting the cockpit, 

Same or easier, in particular for passenger, have slide out step just above lower longeron and aft of front seat back. 
Everyone that has flown in, has liked.

>have to make two sets of latches.  

Yes I bought from brock.

Are these latches interlinked 

Yes, alum. tube plus same arms as end of control torque tubes behind firewall. Not difficult to make.

>have an access door on each side of the fuselage?

One, one pilot side



From: Todd Carrico <todd.carrico@aris.com>
Subject: COZY: Carbon Fiber
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 14:40:11 -0700 

 I have heard of Berkut buidlers having problems installing antenea in the
wings, winglets, etc. because they are skinned with carbon fiber.  Your
friend may run into this if he plans to put his ELT, Comm(esp. hand held
comm) I don't know for sure if it affects GPS, but everything else seems to.
I imagine that the Berkut doesn't have Carbon fiber in the Fuse because of
these reasons, but I can only speculate.

tc

-----Original Message-----
From: David de Sosa
To: cozy_builders@canard.com
Sent: 5/3/99 4:18 PM

I have a friend building a Cozy MKIV who wants to install a forward
hinged
canopy instead of the side mount plans version.  He also wants to
reinforce
the underside of the canopy with carbon fiber over the foam on either
side.
He wants to know if there is a reason why the instrument panel cuts
through
the underside canopy foam or if the panel can be cut flush with the
height
of the longerons along its edges so that he can lay the carbon fiber
straight
across the underside foam on the canopy.
 
Would he be compromising strength or any other unforeseen issue by doing
this?

David de Sosa
Cozy MKIV# 080

From: Wayne Hicks <WHicks@SPACETEC.Zeltech.com>
Subject: COZY: Raising Canopy/turtleback
Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 14:43:20 -0400


For those of you who raised the turtleback and canopy, can you confirm the
following assumptions:

1.  Leave the aft most point of the turtleback alone so it conforms to the
upper cowling?

2.  Raise the forward-most point of the turtle back 1 inch, or alternately,
make the jigs correspondingly one inch higher?

3.  Canopy is 1 inch higher the entire length?


____________________________________________________
L. Wayne Hicks		Space Operations Division 
Sr. Engineer		Zel Technologies, LLC
757-865-0900 phone	3221 North Armistead Ave
757-865-8960 fax	Hampton, VA 23666
http://www.zeltech.com

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 22:51:39 -0400
From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" <marcz@ultranet.com>
Subject: COZY: Raising Canopy/turtleback

Wayne Hicks asks;

>1.  Leave the aft most point of the turtleback alone so it conforms to the
>upper cowling?

Yep.

>2.  Raise the forward-most point of the turtle back 1 inch, or alternately,
>make the jigs correspondingly one inch higher?

Yep.

>3.  Canopy is 1 inch higher the entire length?

Yep.  Actually, I tried to raise it as much as I could while still getting
a smooth transition to the turtleback.  I might have gotten another 1/2" or
so near the front.  It will depend upon exactly how big the blown canopy
is, and how much extra material there is around the edges.

--
Marc J. Zeitlin           mailto:marcz@ultranet.com
                          http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/

From: "gdavis" <gdavis@access1.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Raising Canopy/turtleback
Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 17:02:33 -0700

Other food for thought... Besure to leave about 3/16 inch space above the
closing surfaces to install a rubber seal. ACS stocks a V-seal burt
rcomended for the EZ works great but you need the space for it.  I did not
leave enougt room and found it dificult to seal. But In Arizona you need
some cooling air any way!!!
Gene Davis Cozy MK4 N42CZ
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne Hicks <WHicks@SPACETEC.Zeltech.com>
To: Cozy Builders <Cozy_Builders@canard.com>
Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 12:11 PM
Subject: COZY: Raising Canopy/turtleback


>
>For those of you who raised the turtleback and canopy, can you confirm the
>following assumptions:
>
>1.  Leave the aft most point of the turtleback alone so it conforms to the
>upper cowling?
>
>2.  Raise the forward-most point of the turtle back 1 inch, or alternately,
>make the jigs correspondingly one inch higher?
>
>3.  Canopy is 1 inch higher the entire length?
>
>
>____________________________________________________
>L. Wayne Hicks Space Operations Division
>Sr. Engineer Zel Technologies, LLC
>757-865-0900 phone 3221 North Armistead Ave
>757-865-8960 fax Hampton, VA 23666
>http://www.zeltech.com
>


Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 14:42:49 -0700
From: Eric Westland <ewestland@altavista.net>
Subject: COZY: Turtle Deck Gutter

With the recent talk of keeping rain out of the plane, I'm still looking for
the easiest way to catch the rain that will inevitably make it's way down the
turtle back gutter into the rear seat area.  I built it per plans and if you
have too, you know what I mean about the channel just stopping.  I knew it
would not work too well here in the Seattle area where all it does is rain or
get ready to rain, but always just figured I would see a better way and fix it
later.  Now that I'm essentially done, I'm still looking for that elegant
solution to channel the water away.  If you have an idea or a photo you could
e-mail me, I'd be most appreciative.

TIA,

Eric Westland
Mukilteo, WA

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 17:11:54 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Turtle Deck Gutter

My front hinged canopy hasn't leaked one drop that I could detect. I get a small quantity in the elevator tubes with the MKIV 
offsets. Installed gutters with drain holes, but still get a little water after a rain on the ground. Haven't noticed any 
water in flight though. Location was verified with a hose while washing the plane.

From: "Chris Byrne" <jcbyrne@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: COZY: Canopy
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 10:08:38 +1000

Builders

Has anyone had any experience with the "green" canopy from Aircraft
Plastics.
They offer a clear, green, or smoke tint.
Archives mention the smoke tint but not green.
Am wondering how dark it is.

Thanks
Chris Byrne
Sydney

Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 19:21:48 -0400
From: "L. Wayne Hicks" <lwhicks@erols.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Canopy

Chris Byrne wrote:
> 
> Builders
> 
> Has anyone had any experience with the "green" canopy from Aircraft
> Plastics.

They can probably send you some 2"x2" samples.  I've got the light and
medium smoke samples in about a week.

Wayne Hicks

From: "Nat Puffer" <natp@cozyaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Escape Window
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 18:49:02 -0000

Builders,
It is good practice to carry a plexiglass breaking tool along side the seat
or in the pocket next to you. I have a heavy duty survival knife with saw
teeth on one edge of the blade.
Nat

----------
> From: Gunrider@aol.com
> To: cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject: COZY: Escape Window
> Date: Sunday, July 18, 1999 5:29 PM
> 
> I remember discussion on a window to kick out.  
> I am assuming less flox,no plexi sanding, cutting outer skin from the
inside 
> really thin.
> Any better ideas?
> Hugh Farrior

From: Gunrider@aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 10:34:19 EDT
Subject: COZY: Split My CANOPY!

Yes I actually did it...
	Things were going so well, six coats of spraylat, the tracing and the 
cutting.
All of a sudden - pop!  An eight inch split for the copilot.
I was using a 20tpi jig blade which was working well.  I believe I let too 
long a piece of plastic hang during cutting.
  I thought my dremel wouldn't be strong enough to cut the plastic.   Wrong.
Precisely what Jeff at Aeroplane plastics recommends - also leaving uncut 
"tacks" until most cutting is done.  Then carefully finishing and sanding.
	I was pleasantly surprised when Jeff gave me a hefty discount when 
ordering the new canopy.
     A nice gesture for a bonehead move.
Hugh Farrior
Canopy then strakes.

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 20:06:26 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Split My CANOPY!

I used the dremel with the reinforced abrasive circular saws and it worked just fine. Since there is no table or other item to 
slide on the plexi, it can't get scratched. The dremel has more than enough power, but not enough to jerk your hand and the 
cutter to a spot not wanted.

From: Epplin John A <EpplinJohnA@jdcorp.deere.com>
Subject: RE: COZY: Canopy Question
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 13:28:28 -0500

As I remember over an inch.  You still may not get he kink completely out,
may need to add some micro onto the plexi.

John Epplin   Mk4  #467

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Wayne Hicks [SMTP:WHicks@SPACETEC.Zeltech.com]
> Sent:	Thursday, July 22, 1999 7:44 AM
> To:	Cozy Builders
> Subject:	COZY: Canopy Question
> 
> 
> For those who've installed their canopies, how much did you have to cut
> into
> the canopy edge at the instrument panel to remove the kink out of where
> the
> top aft canopy joins the turtleback?  Half-inch? one inch? What? 
> 
> Thanx!
> 
> ____________________________________________________
> L. Wayne Hicks		Space Operations Division 
> Sr. Engineer		Zel Technologies, LLC
> 757-865-0900 phone	3221 North Armistead Ave
> 757-865-8960 fax	Hampton, VA 23666
> http://www.zeltech.com

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 21:15:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Canopy Question

On 07/22/99 08:43:52 you wrote:
>
>
>For those who've installed their canopies, how much did you have to cut into
>the canopy edge at the instrument panel to remove the kink out of where the
>top aft canopy joins the turtleback?  Half-inch? one inch? What? 
>
If, I understand the question. The top aft of the plexiglass where cut is aft of the plexiglass highpoint and headed downward, 
where the turtleback is convex and going down as you head forward. Use a straight edge parallel to the fore/aft centerline. 
With the straightedge on the plexi and turtleback, use a 0.035" feeler gauge, tucked between the straightedge and plexi, mark 
the forward edge of the feeler as the straightedge is moved parallel sideways, until that line joins the aft edge of the plexi 
including the 1" overlap of glass. This line is the edge of 2 plys BID. Fill the area aft, allowing bond 1" to the plexi with 
a light weight filler and 2 plys BID on top that, lapping the turtleback glass. The scalloped top is not according to a 
particular template, but fairing the turtleback to a smooth surface. Its possible to heat the turtleback flange with a heat 
gun and bend it for a better match of contour.

From: Wayne Hicks <WHicks@SPACETEC.Zeltech.com>
Subject: COZY: Chapter 18 Windows
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 11:44:35 -0400


I'd like to shake the hand of the fellow that wrote the rear window
placement instructions used in the Chapter 18 FAQ (Question 18.8).  I was
getting frustrated trying to locate the cut-outs on my own...then I
remembered the FAQ's.  The 18.8 method is much simpler.

Thanks for you and this forum!

____________________________________________________
L. Wayne Hicks		Space Operations Division 
Sr. Engineer		Zel Technologies, LLC
757-865-0900 phone	3221 North Armistead Ave
757-865-8960 fax	Hampton, VA 23666
http://www.zeltech.com

Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 10:42:00 +0200
From: Jannie Versfeld <qmain@intekom.co.za>
Subject: COZY: Canopy Trim

Hi all fellow canardians,

It has been quite a while since I last requested some help,  bute here
goes....

I have trimmed my canopy and fitted it to the turtle back.  I have
masked the deck trim line in accordance with the plans templates at FS
41, 50, 60 & 70.

Question #1:

Does the templates match the "newer" raised FS28 bulkhead ... the one
that has about 3/4"-1" higher curvature than in the plans full scale
drawing?

Question #2:

The plans state that the canopy frame must be shaped to a thickness of
aprox. 3/4" from about 2" of the outside edge.  does this mean that the
plexiglass is embedded 3/4" into the canopy frame?

Do I leave the final trimming of the plexiglass until I start work on
the inside or do I trim it prior to laying up the first ply of UNI
before I start fiiting th urethane foam around the canopy?

I hope I make sense guys and thanks in advance for the help.

Jannie Versfeld
Cozy Buider # 673

Maybe 6 months from take-off !!

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 08:23:55 -0400
From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" <marcz@ultranet.com>
Subject: Fwd: COZY: Canopy Trim

Jannie Versfeld asks;

>Does the templates match the "newer" raised FS28 bulkhead ... the one
>that has about 3/4"-1" higher curvature than in the plans full scale
>drawing?

It's not dependent on F28 - i.e. you can make the curvature and shape
anything you want, within reason.  Once you get the foam in place and start
shaping, you'll see what I mean.

>.....  does this mean that the
>plexiglass is embedded 3/4" into the canopy frame?

Yes.  You end up with a wraparound on the inside, and a 3/4" deep
connection on the outside that gets filled.

>Do I leave the final trimming of the plexiglass until I start work on
>the inside or do I trim it prior to laying up the first ply of UNI
>before I start fiiting th urethane foam around the canopy?

I believe I trimmed it prior to the foam fitting, but it's certainly not
inconceivable to do it later after flipping the canopy.

--
Marc J. Zeitlin           mailto:marcz@ultranet.com
                          http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/

From: Epplin John A <EpplinJohnA@jdcorp.deere.com>
Subject: COZY: Head rests & canopy gas spring
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 12:43:54 -0500

Is there a problem with putting both headrests on the canopy?  Are they
considered in the roll-over protection?

What seems to be the best geometry and size for the gas spring?  Canopy
frame is built to plans, nothing done for headrests yet.  Would appreciate
some input here.

John Epplin   Mk4  #467

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 16:25:51 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Head rests & canopy gas spring

I have slots on both of the faces facing the centerline. THey are an ideal spot to store flight guides for quick access to 
airport info including control zone shapes, radio freq.s, runway numbers, etc.

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 09:26:10 -0700
From: George Krosse <gtk4923@pacbell.net>
Subject: COZY: Spraylat removal.

The spraylat has been on my canopy for 5 years. I understand that it
can be removed by adding a few more coats to the canopy and then just
peel it off.
Has any one come up with a solution that will allow the removal
without another application of spraylat? I am about to try denatured
alcohol.

George Krosse
Cozy Plans #433
gtk4923@pacbell.net
gtk4923@juno.com
Phone & Fax 949/644-7099

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 18:22:40 -0400
From: "L. Wayne Hicks" <lwhicks@erols.com>
Subject: COZY: Re: Spraylat removal.

George Krosse wrote:
Has any one come up with a solution that will allow the removal (of
spraylat) without another application of spraylat? I am about to try
denatured alcohol.
 
-----------> Yessiree!  It's well-documented in the Cozy FAQ's:
http://cozy.canard.com/mail_list/cozy-faq.html

For the FAQ-impaired :-) , I've included it here:

18.5 - What is the best way to remove Spraylat coating or tape residue
from
the canopy? 

A commercial product called "Goof-Off" is the best for removing tape
residue. It is compatible with acrylics. Kerosene or avgas can be used
in a pinch. Do not use alcohols or glass cleaners as these will cause
damage to the canopy over time. Spraylat can be softened and removed
easily by applying one or two new coats, then peeling it off as
directed. 

Wayne Hicks
Cozy IV #678 Chapter 18
http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/2027

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 17:42:11 -0700
From: George Krosse <gtk4923@pacbell.net>
Subject: COZY: Spraylat removal

<x-html>
<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Thanks for all the input for removing the spraylat. I had known about applying
several more coats of spraylat would help in spraylat removal, but since
I only wanted to remove enough so as to do a little glassing on the canopy,
I was reluctant to get the spray gear out to make the application
<br>I had used word search on the archives and found no reference to spraylat.
18.5 didn't show up.
<br>Before I used the rubbing alcohol, I experimented with various tapes.
Viola, Scotch brand brown mailing tape, when applied and allowed to set
for a few minutes, pulled off and brought all the spraylat with it. Mission
accomplished.
<br>George Krosse
<br>Cozy Plans #433
<br>Structure done for 5 years, still filling and sanding.</html>

</x-html>
From ???@??? Fri Oct 29 06:34:31 1999
Return-Path: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com
Received: from twc2.betaweb.com (majordomo@betaweb.com [206.43.209.18]) by acestes-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult/n20340/mtc.v2) with ESMTP id OAA05603 for <marcz@ultranet.com>; Wed, 27 Oct 1999 14:32:29 -0400 (EDT)
Received: (from majordomo@localhost)
	by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) id NAA31523
	for cozy_builders-list; Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:48:09 -0400
X-Authentication-Warning: twc2.betaweb.com: majordomo set sender to owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com using -f
Received: from mail1.mia.bellsouth.net (mail1.mia.bellsouth.net [205.152.16.13])
	by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id NAA31518
	for <Cozy_builders@canard.com>; Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:48:03 -0400
Received: from bellsouth.net (host-216-77-208-116.fll.bellsouth.net [216.77.208.116])
	by mail1.mia.bellsouth.net (3.3.5alt/0.75.2) with ESMTP id NAA22303
	for <Cozy_builders@canard.com>; Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:43:51 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <38174876.BEB5A11A@bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:46:41 -0500
From: Bulent Aliev <atlasyts@bellsouth.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 (Macintosh; I; PPC)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
CC: Cozy_builders@canard.com
Subject: Re: COZY: Spraylat removal.
References: <381727A2.24ECFF85@pacbell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Sender: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: Bulent Aliev <atlasyts@bellsouth.net>
X-UIDL: 8659c4649a812a79a141b1966c8939b4



George Krosse wrote:

>
> Has any one come up with a solution that will allow the removal
> without another application of spraylat? I am about to try denatured
> alcohol.

I would stay away from fast evaporating solvents. They may over cool the
area and cause  cracks. I watched a $5000 custom boat window crack after
the installer wiped access caulking with solvent.
Bulent

From: "Russ Fisher" <rfisher1@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Spraylat removal.
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:53:24 -0400

George,

George Mesiarik of LP Aero Plastics ( windshields@lpaero.com ) held a forum
at Osh dealing specifically with acrylic windshields.  The same question was
posed to him and he said that he had never had a problem removing spraylat
even after several years.  The trick, he said is to make sure that you use a
thick enough coat in the first place.  Although this won't help you now,
maybe someone who has not yet purchased their canopy can benefit.  You may
want to email him for further help - he seemed quite open to questions.  LP
Aero markets a number of chemicals for use on acrylic.  Their phone is (724)
744-4448.

Russ Fisher
-----Original Message-----


>Has any one come up with a solution that will allow the removal
>without another application of spraylat? I am about to try denatured
>alcohol.
>
>George Krosse


Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:20:39 -0700
From: hrogers@SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Howard Rogers)
Subject: COZY: Re:



>The spraylat has been on my canopy for 5 years. I understand that it
>can be removed by adding a few more coats to the canopy and then just
>peel it off.
>Has any one come up with a solution that will allow the removal
>without another application of spraylat? I am about to try denatured
>alcohol.
>George Krosse

George,
        I am wearing out on this subject, but here goes, one more time!  Do
*NOT*, under any circumstances *EVER* use alcohol (any type) on acrylic.
That includes Windex.  You might even think you got away with it, at the
time you do it, but it will craze later.  I have the same problem to deal
with at some point, and I'm not sure it won't peel right off, even without
any extraordinary measures, but if you must try a solvent, kerosene is
approved by the makers of acrylic windshields and canopies.  No garauntee
it will work, but at least it won't HURT.

--Howard Rogers  A&P 2005148


Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 22:40:27 -0400
From: "Edmond A. Richards" <EdRichards1@compuserve.com>
Subject: COZY: Spraylat removal.

>>George Krosse wrote:
The spraylat has been on my canopy for 5 years. <<

George, as others have already posted don't use any solvents on the plexy. 
Adding extra coats of spraylat works great!  My canopy sat for more than 3
years before I tried to peal the stuff off.  I could see it was going to
take hours pealing off little flakes.  I painted about 4 or 5 more coats
on, sort of just slapping it on with a brush and letting it dry before the
next coat.  When it finally dried I was able to peal the whole "skin" off
in one piece. 

Many thanks to the person who originally posted this discovery, it saved me
many hours and much aggravation.

Ed Richards

Cozy Mark IV  #88

Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 08:25:04 +0200
From: "Rego Burger" <BurgerR@telkom.co.za>
Subject: COZY: Side windows - Lining

This is a friendly warning to slow builders like me.

After a few years of standing in a shed that has large temp. changes the plastic lining on my windows has degraded to a point that I can't peel it off.... rats...  I can't use solvent to try to remove it as this will destroy my windows so I have been trying to "scrape" it off with a plastic squegee and a hair dryer to elevate the temp to soften it a bit.
It took 3 hrs to remove it on one with some nice scratches on my "new" windows.
So I will need to try and buff these scratches out.
Any ideas welcome.


Rgo Burger
Tel: 0800456789
Fax:+27 41 3631465
South Africa

From: Militch@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 08:36:23 EST
Subject: Re:  COZY: Side windows - Lining


In a message dated 11/9/99 8:10:34 AM, BurgerR@telkom.co.za wrote:

>After a few years of standing in a shed that has large temp. changes the 
plastic
>lining on my windows has degraded to a point that I can't peel it off.... 
rats...
> I can't use solvent to try to remove it as this will destroy my windows so 
I have
>been trying to "scrape" it off with a plastic squegee and a hair dryer to 
elevate
>the temp to soften it a bit.
>
Others have addressed this recently. They report that the best method is to 
paint on a very thick layer of spraylat and let it set up.  That layer and 
the one underneath will then peel off ok.

Regards

Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:28:10 -0700
From: hrogers@slac.stanford.edu (Howard Rogers)
Subject: Re:  COZY: Side windows - Lining

Rego,
        To get scratches out, you will need some wet/dry sandpaper of
descending grit.  How coarse you start will depend on how deep your
scratches are.  Assuming you can get them out with 320 grit, you can start
there.  Use plenty of water, sand the smallest area you can to blend out
the scratch, and rub primarily one direction (make straight sanding
scratches).  Wash all grit away throroughly and go to 400 grit paper,
rubbing in a different direction and covering a slightly larger area.  When
all the 400 scratches are gone, progress to 600 grit, then to 1000
(actually, 600 is probably far enough, but the 1000 will only take a small
amount of extra effort.  Each new grit will cover a bit more area than the
preceding grit.  At this point, I would use a special buffing wheel, but it
is possible to rub out the final polish by hand.  Perhaps someone on the
list can furnish you with the name of an appropriate product.  If you use a
wheel, it should turn at a fairly slow rpm.  It should be absolutely clean,
and it should NEVER be used for anything but plastic.  One touch to metal,
and it is no good for plastic anymore.  A place like Tap Plastics here, or
your equivilent there, can furnish the right type of wheel and buffing
compound.  They are not expensive.  Be careful not to get the plastic too
hot when buffing.  Use short bursts and wait, if you have to.  The whole
process is surprisingly easy, once you get into it.

Howard Rogers A&P 2005148


From: "Ugolini, Nick (Efdsouth)" <UgoliniNJ@EFDSOUTH.NAVFAC.NAVY.mil>
Subject: RE: COZY: Side windows - Lining
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 12:09:08 -0500

The appropriate product is 3M micro compound rubbing compound, and follow
that with 3M Finesset (sp?) polishing compound.    Actually, I first started
using the products to buff out polyurethane paint.  You sand using 1300 grit
sand paper followed by micro compound (cloth disk) then use Finesset (with a
sponge disk).

Some dummy (who will remain nameless) didn't properly cover his canopy when
spray painting in his shop.  I used the products to buff out the fine mist
of paint from my canopy with terrific results.  It also pulled out all the
very fine scratches that happen over time with paper towels.   Now when ever
I clean my canopy, I use some Finesset on a tee shirt and water.

If you need the exact product numbers/names send me a email.

Nick


.......................................
        To get scratches out, you will need some wet/dry sandpaper of
descending grit.  How coarse you start will depend on how deep your
scratches are........              At this point, I would use a special
buffing wheel, but it
is possible to rub out the final polish by hand.  Perhaps someone on the
list can furnish you with the name of an appropriate product.  

Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 11:50:10 -0500
From: "Johnson, Phillip" <phillip.johnson@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: COZY: Re:  Retractable Main Landing Gear

>Tom Ellis writes:
>
>Noticed the above comment in your last post.  Several of us are working on 
>hinging our canopies forward.  I have the Cozy Classic plans, as well as 
>several others.  Would be interested in hearing what you changed to improve 
>the installation.  Of course, mine still might be quite different as I am 
>using the Lancair canopy.
>
>end<
>
>I used the words like the Cozy Classic only because many people have
>interpreted the phrase "forward hinging" to mean that the hinges are at the
>back like the Berkut. I have the hinges ate the front like the Cozy Classic.
>
>There are two 0.5" bronze bushings installed in the corner between F28 and
>the upper longerons. I imbedded them in a block of Spruce before glassing
>them in place. Two composite hinges curl around the fuselage top and attach
>to the canopy I guess I need to do a drawing some time to explain the
>concept. The canopy is a cozy canopy (bubble) with an additional four inches
>in the hoop of the (bubble). Airplane plastics made a special at no extra
>cost. Only the section over the front seats hinges forwards and access to the
>rear seats is through a Gull Wing door arrangement. It's really difficult to
>describe without drawings and photographs.
>
>Phillip Johnson 
>

Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 22:28:51 -0600
From: vance atkinson <vaatk@flash.net>
Subject: COZY: semi structrial mods



Modifications,

I am  here to tell you guys the best and lightest, easiest canopy is
the current one called out in the plans.  In addition to building 3
stock ez type canopies,  I have helped build a cozy "slide forward"
type. And, a forward hinge type, and, a gull wing door type.
Each builder had his reasons for these canopies.  As far as I could
see they all had more drawbacks than the stock unit.  I helped Al
Yarmy build his Cozy and he insisted on the forward sliding unit.
Several years later when a new owner wanted to fly in it and have me
check him out in it, the unit would not track, wobbled incessantly and
left a one inch gap in the back and numerous gaps here and there, and
virtually, unlockable.  The only course was to convert back to the
stock unit.

I helped build a forward hinged opening unit on a European Cozy.  This
unit unlike Als, was very sturdy, and weighed 50% more than the stock
unit, and was a royal pain to boot.  For what we have now is the
simplest and lightest weight of all the combos.  Building a hatch from
scratch is a LOT of work, probably as much as the entire stock
canopy.  And, you need some pretty good latches for hatches. Catchy
isen't it?

Steve Drybread has designed, manufactured, and  installed some very
nice retractable main gear.  But Last year Herb Sanders clean, stock
Long EZ, with a stock (but tuned) 160 HP Lyc. with fixed gear, beat
Steves magnificent machine in a head to head race in california.
Sometimes  it is the simple stuff that works the best.  It takes a LOT
of work to complete one of these aircraft and if you make a bunch of
complex changes, that will double or triple your energy expended, you
need to make sure what your doing is going to be worth it, because
these type of projects will certainly take its toll in building time,
money and energy.

Vance Atkinson   EAA Tech, Flt Advisor,  been there done that. (and
survived)







Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 14:49:57 -0500
From: Paul Krasa <p.w.krasa@larc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: COZY: So, what did I forget?

Depends on how close you are to flying.  Avionics are changing rapidly, and
Multi-Function Displays are already available.  In the next few years,
Primary Flight Displays which replace your standard six will also be
available.  Sierra systems already has a non-certified PFD on the market,
but with it you need to keep the round instruments for flight in IMC, and
the Sierra panel I saw installed in an airplane was prone to lock up.

So, what does all this mean.  If you have seen the current thread by Bob N.
of Aeroelectric Connection, the all electric system is the way to go.   I
would use a derivative of the Defiant electrical system which is in Bob's
book, and instead of having two engines just use the vacuum pump mount pad
for the second alternator.  A 10 amp alternator combined with a 60 amp
alternator in the standard location.

Paul
Long EZ 214LP


At 18:41 11/22/99 +0000, willav@att.net wrote:
>I have just finished (I think) all the wiring and 
>plumbing behind the panel that I can conceivable imagine 
>needing.  I've pre-wired for my dream avionics (of course 
>that will all change before I get to install it!), 
>electric nose lift, etc. and am thinking it's time to 
>glue the fuselage top  on.  However, just before I do, I 
>thought I'd ask around and see what, if anything, others 
>have wished they'd done before making it a whole lot more 
>difficult to do without cuttiong holes in the deck!
>
>Thanks for you experience,
>Will 
>
>

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 19:25:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: COZY: semi structrial mods

Re front hinged canopy - was said <royal pain to boot>

I respectfully disagree, with the vertical gas springs modification, I find it very convenient wher either the passenger or 
pilot can enter or exit without disturbing the other. Yes its a little heavy, but if it opens in flight its no big thing, and 
someone that the original writer knows well had his side hinged canopy open in flight, a headset blew into a position that 
prevented closing in flight. The ventilation on the ground is excellent with it open against the emergency latch. 

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 14:14:42 -0600
From: vance atkinson <vaatk@flash.net>
Subject: [Fwd: COZY: semi structrial mods]

Yes,  That was me, and it was a non-event because I FLEW THE PLANE
FIRST !!
The trouble was a safety catch that touched the torque rods on the
canopy which with a simple bend eliminated the possible problem.
Vance
From ???@??? Tue Nov 23 21:41:54 1999
Return-Path: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com
Received: from twc2.betaweb.com (root@betaweb.com [206.43.209.18]) by acestes-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult/n20340/mtc.v2) with ESMTP id AAA07160 for <marcz@ultranet.com>; Tue, 23 Nov 1999 00:40:33 -0500 (EST)
Received: (from majordomo@localhost)
	by twc2.betaweb.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id VAA13180
	for cozy_builders-list; Mon, 22 Nov 1999 21:33:10 -0500
X-Authentication-Warning: twc2.betaweb.com: majordomo set sender to owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com using -f
Received: from antiochus-fe0.ultra.net (antiochus-fe0.ultra.net [146.115.8.188])
	by twc2.betaweb.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id VAA13172
	for <cozy_builders@canard.com>; Mon, 22 Nov 1999 21:32:57 -0500
Received: from zeitlinhome ([146.115.235.235]) by antiochus-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult/n20340/mtc.v2) with SMTP id VAA12027 for <cozy_builders@canard.com>; Mon, 22 Nov 1999 21:25:32 -0500 (EST)
Message-Id: <4.1.19991122212010.009b8f00@pop.ultranet.com>
Message-Id: <4.1.19991122212010.009b8f00@pop.ultranet.com>
X-Sender: marcz@pop.ultranet.com
X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.1 
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 21:21:45 -0500
To: Cozy Builders Mailing List <cozy_builders@canard.com>
From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" <marcz@ultranet.com>
Subject: Fwd: COZY: So, what did I forget?
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Sender: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: "Marc J. Zeitlin" <marcz@ultranet.com>
X-UIDL: 94c1e09fb243ae6fc30f6ad78b395f6c

Will wrote:

>I have just finished (I think) all the wiring and 
>plumbing behind the panel that I can conceivable imagine 
>needing.  I've pre-wired for my dream avionics (of course 
>that will all change before I get to install it!), 
>electric nose lift, etc. and am thinking it's time to 
>glue the fuselage top  on.

Well, if you make the fuselage top removable (as indicated as an option in
the Cozy MKIV plans), you don't need to ask this question because it's
trivial to get at the area behing the panel.  So, my recommendation would
be to make the top removable and don't sweat it.
--
Marc J. Zeitlin           mailto:marcz@ultranet.com
                          http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/

From: "Bruce McElhoe" <brucem@theworks.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: canopy color
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 09:58:11 -0800

Wydo,

I purchased my Long-EZ canopy from Airplane Plastics Co. in Ohio. I don't
know if they are the preferred supplier for Cozy.

If they are, I suggest you arrange for a third-party inspection of the
canopy before it is shipped.  I built my Long-EZ in Hawaii and the shipping
cost was horrible.  Even worse, Airplane Plastics sent me a canopy with a
flaw, minor to them perhaps, but unacceptable to me.  (It was a clearly
visible bulge in the side.) After I returned the canopy, and after a
considerable delay, Airplane Plasitics replaced the canopy  So I had to pay
freight at the oversize rate for three trips....more than the cost of the
canopy.

I can only guess that they tried to push off the flawed canopy on someone
less likely to return it.  The freight to the Netherlands would be even
more.

Bruce McElhoe             Long-EZ  N64MC
Reedley, California



> Hi builders,
>
>  I  would like to known what color canopy to order ?
> Please tell me the advantage/ disadvantage of the color you are flying
with.
>
> Does anyone has an email address of this approved supplier?
>
> Regards,
> Wydo van de Waerdt (NL)
> #827
>


From: Don Bowen <DonBow@symix.com>
Subject: COZY: RE: Chapt 18 - turtledeck
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 11:50:47 -0500

John Slade wrote:
I'm about to cut my turtleback jigs.
I know that many builders have made the turtleback a couple of inches higher
than plans in the front to give more shoulder room and for aesthetic
reasons.

Hi John,

Just my 2 cents worth regarding mod's to the turtleback:

I am 6'1" tall, and have considered raising the forward edge of the
turtleback.

I sat in Nat's Cozy during last year's Copperstate airshow.  With the canopy
closed I found the head and shoulder room adequate, but a little closer than
I am used to in factory-type planes.

I am getting ready to build the turtleback, and am considering raising the
front edge by around 1/2" to 1".  At 5'7", you should be O.K. with the stock
setup (just my opinion).  Personally, I think raising it by "a couple of
inches" would be too much.

Of course, my head and shoulder room "problem" could possibly be solved by
using seat cushions thinner than those installed in Nat's plane.  Many times
I have thought about changing something from the plans configuration.  It
seems that after investigation and considerable thought, I end up doing
things the way Nat says in the plans.  I may end up building a completely
"stock" turtleback and enjoying the sleek lines of Nat's design.

Good luck with your project!

Don Bowen
Cozy Mk IV, s/n 440




From: alwick@juno.com
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:02:34 -0800
Subject: Re: COZY: RE: Chapt 18 - turtledeck

Just don't mess with the firewall end. No value to it, and could be a bit
of a pain due to effects on engine cover fit, etc.
I'm 6'2, happy with stock setup. Plenty of head room for pilot.

-al

On Thu, 16 Dec 1999 11:50:47 -0500 Don Bowen <DonBow@symix.com> writes:
> John Slade wrote:
> I'm about to cut my turtleback jigs.
> I know that many builders have made the turtleback a couple of 
> inches higher
> than plans in the front to give more shoulder room and for aesthetic
> reasons.
> 
> Hi John,
> 
> Just my 2 cents worth regarding mod's to the turtleback:
> 
> I am 6'1" tall, and have considered raising the forward edge of the
> turtleback.
> 
> I sat in Nat's Cozy during last year's Copperstate airshow.  With 
> the canopy
> closed I found the head and shoulder room adequate, but a little 
> closer than
> I am used to in factory-type planes.
> 
> I am getting ready to build the turtleback, and am considering 
> raising the
> front edge by around 1/2" to 1".  At 5'7", you should be O.K. with 
> the stock
> setup (just my opinion).  Personally, I think raising it by "a 
> couple of
> inches" would be too much.
> 
> Of course, my head and shoulder room "problem" could possibly be 
> solved by
> using seat cushions thinner than those installed in Nat's plane.  
> Many times
> I have thought about changing something from the plans 
> configuration.  It
> seems that after investigation and considerable thought, I end up 
> doing
> things the way Nat says in the plans.  I may end up building a 
> completely
> "stock" turtleback and enjoying the sleek lines of Nat's design.
> 
> Good luck with your project!
> 
> Don Bowen
> Cozy Mk IV, s/n 440
> 
>
___________________________________________________________________
Why pay more to get Web access?
Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.

From: "James A. White" <jimwhi@televar.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Chap 18 - turtleback
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 21:27:39 -0800

I am 6'-1" and I don't think you need to increase the canopy height.  I did
widen the front of the turtle back without too much hassle.  I found that I
needed shoulder room more than I needed the headroom  When you widen the
turtleback at the front, the top center of the canopy will need slightly
more fill. I used pour foam with good results.
Messing around with the width of the back of turtleback will require making
your own engine cowlings to match.  Even though it is going to be a lot more
work, I don't mind making my own cowlings.  If you want to widen the back of
the turtleback you start running into structural details of the side wood
pieces.  It gets more complicated from there.  I don't suggest going there.
Good luck,
Jim White
Plans #16

-----Original Message-----
From: John Slade <rjslade@bellsouth.net>
To: Cozy <Cozy_builders@canard.com>
Date: Thursday, December 16, 1999 8:53 AM
Subject: COZY: Chap 18 - turtleback


>Builders,
>A little advice if you please...
>
>I'm about to cut my turtleback jigs.
>I know that many builders have made the turtleback a couple of inches
higher
>than plans in the front to give more shoulder room and for aesthetic
>reasons. I'm not a big guy - 5' 7", 160lbs. so I'm not sure I need the
extra
>height - but then - I've only been in an AeroCanard. Never sat in a stock
>Cozy.
>
>Given that deviating plans is generally a bad idea, I'd appreciate
arguments
>for and against lifting the turtleback / canopy. Also - how did you go
about
>making the change? Any gottchas?
>
>Regards, and happy holidays to all.
>John Slade, Cozy MKIV #757, progress: http://kgarden.com/cozy
>West Palm Beach, FL
>
>PS - to any builders at NASA - I hope you get off tonight!
>
>

From: "James A. White" <jimwhi@televar.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Chap 18 - turtleback
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 22:40:45 -0800

Dana (and all),
Here is my response.  Please be aware that one small change leads to many
many more.  In this instance I widened the front of the turtleback jig.  I
also widened the rear of the turtleback, molded my own side windows (which
worked out fine and saved some money too), made a new firewall, fairing
pieces, new cowling, new rear canopy latch (identical to Cozy III), etc.,
etc....
>1. The plans show the TB jig width at 36 and 3/8ths inches....is this
>what you changed to 38"?
Yes, I widened the front of the turtleback jig like you mention here.  The
38" width is to the inside of the plexiglass, so I believe the turtle back
jig was around 38-1/2".

>2. Did the standard Airplane Plastics canopy conform to this extra width
>ok?
The standard Airplane Plastics canopy is what I used and  fits fine.

>3. Did you tip the canopy forward a little bit to decrease the fill
>required at the top?
No.  There really isn't a need to tip the canopy forward.  That forward
intersection of the canopy is dictated by the contour of the nose and
fairing over the canard.  Spreading the canopy wider requires some extra
filling at the top of the canopy, but the weight penalty is negligible.  As
I recall pour foam was less than 1/2" at the deepest and averaged 1/8" or
so.  I covered the pour foam with 1 py of bid.  The resulting fill at the
top of the canopy covers a larger area than the standard arrangement.  The
larger fill provides some shading for my ever receeding hairline and does
not significantly impact overhead or sideways visibility.

>4. How was the extra shoulder width faired into the top longerons and
>adjacent fuselage?
All of the fairings and attachment hardpoints worked out just fine.

>
>Just trying to get this chapter conceptually straight prior to actually
>getting to it.

>Please also post your response to the cozy builders if you wish, I think
>it's a
>subject that may be breaking a little bit of new ground.
>__________________________
>Thanks and Merry Christmas,
>Dana Hill
>CZ IV #676
>
>_________________________________________________________
>On Sat, 18 Dec 1999 21:36:29 -0800 "James A. White" <jimwhi@televar.com>
>writes:
>> Hello Dana,
>> The inside of my canopy above the shoulder is 38".  I don't recall
>> what the
>> plans had.  How tall are you?  It's not too hard to raise the
>> canopy, but I
>> am curious as to why you want to.
>> Jim
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: dhill36@juno.com <dhill36@juno.com>
>> To: jimwhi@televar.com <jimwhi@televar.com>
>> Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 5:34 PM
>> Subject: Re: COZY: Chap 18 - turtleback
>>
>>
>> >Hi Jim,
>> > I was wondering, in response to your recent canopy email(thanx!),
>> to
>> >what degree -or amount that you might have tipped the canopy
>> forward to
>> >lessen the filler at the top of the canopy?
>> >
>> > I plan on raising my canopy an 1" or so and very much would like
>> to also
>> >widen it.  Very curious how much did you move the bottom edge of
>> the
>> >canopy outward?
>> >
>> >Thanks for any help,
>> >Dana Hill
>> >CZ IV #676
>> >Ch 7
>> >___________________________________________________________________
>> >Why pay more to get Web access?
>> >Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
>> >Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>> >
>>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>Why pay more to get Web access?
>Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
>Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>

