From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:25:29 -0600
Subject: COZY: Chapter 13/Land Lights FYI (long)

First, no need to respond Nat; we all know how you feel about night vision.

Just finished attaching my nose cone and completed the landing light lenses 
etc.  Thought I'd pass on my what, why, where stuff FWW in case it's helpful 
to someone.

First, read the archives.  Tons of good stuff we have hashed over before.

My big mistake:  not reading the archives.  I was in transition between 
computers and my copy of the archives was not available.  Now that the nose 
cone work is done, I have the archives again.... go figure.

Second, as pointed out in the archives, polycarbonate (Lexan etc.) sucks 
for heat forming.  The good part about this is the experience I gained and 
the cost was zero except some time and frustration.  Went to a local 
plastics supplier and told the manager exactly what I was doing and that I 
hadn't the foggiest idea of how to do it.  He gave me a sheet of 1/16" 
polycarbonate for free from scraps (2' x 4' sheet is NOT scrap in my book, 
but I didn't argue).  My difficulty was that the darn stuff cooled off way 
too quickly after removing from the oven.  After a couple early attempts, I 
ended up at 380 degrees; got a reasonable form out of it , but it crazed 
badly.  Don't know why, and at the moment don't care; didn't end up using 
it.  Chalk it up to 'experimenting'.

Found some 0.093" Acrylic (Lucite 'Tough Stuff') at the local Fleet Farm 
and after figuring out that (as others did) the piece to be formed needs to 
be just a little bigger than the finished item, I ended up with three 
usable sets.  One perfect optics and perfect fit; one perfect optics and 
only slightly off fit (usable); the third is a perfect fit, with some 
ripples in the optics.  Not a bad idea to have a spare or two.  If I ever 
get to the third pair, I'd have more problems than just the lenses.

My forming temp (oven) was 295 deg.  Left the pieces in for exactly 6 
minutes each.  Covered the middle rack with foil and laid a sheet of felt 
over that.  Didn't use a cookie sheet as some have, but that was because 
they were all tied up with Christmas cookie baking.  Wife only got upset 
once, but that was due to baking interruptions; upside was that my oldest 
son and I provided some humorous kitchen entertainment for Jenny and party 
(something about the occasional four letter words mixed with groans and 
grunts and phrases like "hurry up, get it in there before she cools 
off"...:-)).  {they had too much eggnog or something}

I really wanted to use some sealed beam lamps with clear lenses (a-la GE 
landing lights or KC HiLite off-road HD lamps), but couldn't find any that 
would fit.  Smallest of those is 6" in diameter.  Didn't want to use 
standard automotive lights as their lenses are spec'd by SAE (Society of 
Auto Engineers) for derivability compromised with prevention of blindness 
for oncoming drivers.  Any lens stamped with "SAE-whatever" is made 
strictly for road stuff, not airplanes.  Bought a pair of hand held spot 
lights that were about 4" in diameter.  Figured I could toss the handle and 
lens and just use the reflector.  Nice part was that they use a standard H3 
halogen 55W bulb available most anywhere.  The reflector turned out to be 
lacking much of a lip to attach anything to; using these would have forced 
me to make brackets too big for the space.  My son has a spot light in his 
explorer and Jenny has one in her car now....

Bought some KC HiLite oblong offroad driving/fog lights (clear or yellow 
lenses) that also use H3 bulbs, but found the casing wouldn't fit 
horizontally in the nose after I shaped and made the nose cone and did some 
trial fitting.  So much for my fancy mounting plates I built into the 
horizontal bulkhead in the nose cone.  Matt has some fog lights on his 
truck now.... He's starting to really get into this airplane experimenting 
stuff; wants to know when he gets a stereo/CD player....

Finally found the perfect (for me) lights at K-Mart.  Marketed under the 
name "Eclipse Projector Driving System", made by Rally with a Rally Part 
Number of 3215 (packaged pair).  These are intended as supplemental driving 
lights.  Yup, lenses are marked SAE-xxx; but, the reflector is absolutely 
perfect shape etc.  Has four drilled tabs perfect for riveting a 2024 
mounting ring to. And, they FIT!  I gave the  lenses and housings to my son 
(now he stopped asking about the CD player :-)) and I only used the 
reflectors and bulbs.

Made a comparison set up outside connected to my  battery charger (hot wire 
power supply) and compared quite a few combinations of lenses, spot lights 
KC driving lights, standard auto lights (as called for in the plans) and so 
on.  Yup, very subjective with out lumens meters, photo cells and stuff, 
but worked for my purpose.  I tried to match the wattage ratings as close 
as possible to keep it fair (most "high" beam driving lights are only 65 
Watts or even less FYI/FWW).  The K-Mart purchase (no lenses) had the best 
all around reach and beam pattern with the KC HiLites (sans lenses) a very 
close second on reach and a different, flatter pattern.  ALL of the auto 
headlights I tried really sucked relative to the lensless or clear-lens 
test items; including plan's recommendation.

Just FYI the bulbs are standard 'H3' style and I found that KC Hilites 
makes both 55Watt and 100 Watt H3-style bulbs guaranteed for 23 years!  
Cost a bit more, but available.  Otherwise the H3s might even be available 
in some grocery stores...

Here's basic description of mounting (you'll have to supply your own mental 
pictures):

Made up and alodined two 2024 Al rings about 3/4" wide to fit behind the 
reflectors.  Drilled nut plate holes and then held rings to the face of F-0 
to mark it for cutting (no nose cone yet).  Held the bottom of the ring 
about 1/2" or so from the bottom of F-0 to allow for adjustments and 
clearance of the nose cone; and, held about a half inch from the side of F-0 
to get widest practical spacing between the two.  Cut the holes in F-0 which 
also cut about 1/4" into the glass/foam of the inside nose bottom.  This was 
repaired by standard glass repair methods: micro on the exposed foam, flox 
corners on the inside of the opening (actually went all the way around the 
opening with flox corner) and 2 ply of BID extending through the opening and 
lapping about an inch over the inside nose floor and back of F-0 all around.

Drilled pilot holes (#30 or something similar) in F-0 for the mounting 
bolts (3/16") just so I'd know exactly where they would be on the rear 
face.  Made up and alodined three 2024 1/8 x 1 x 1 plates per light and 
floxed these to the rear face of F-0 for the mounting bolt hard points, 
then covered these with three plies of BID lapping onto F-0.  After cure, 
drilled the mounting holes out to 3/16 through F-0 and the al plates.  I 
drilled a wood block on the drill press first and used this block to keep 
the holes perpendicular to F-0 while drilling.  Then carefully drilled 
through the front face of F-0 and the foam to 7/16", stopping inside the 
rear skin of F-0.  This space will be used for the mounting/adjustment 
springs, so that they rest on the hard points rather than the foam.  Had 
to scrape out a bit of foam due to the drill bit bevel, but that's not a 
big deal.  Did not worry about scraping the micro out; it's hard enough to 
take the spring load.

Riveted three AN3-size floating nut plates to the 'front' of my reflector 
mounting rings; one at top one each side horizontally centered.  Then 
pop-riveted the reflectors to the face of the rings using the four 
manufacturer's tabs.  Just before riveting the nut plats down, I drilled the 
bolt holes out to allow the bolts to move freely in the ring for adjustment.

Can't remember the size of the AN3's, but I decided that since these are 
rally non-structual attachments, that my 'standard' thread cutter, would 
be ok.  I added about 1/2" of thread to the bolts in order to gain some 
adjustment length.  Also, the length was selected so that I had a full 
thread in the nutplates right at the point where the springs began to 
compress.  That way I will be able to 'feel' the slop, before 
inadvertently dropping a spring in the nose cone while adjusting.  The 
reflectors are held in place by the adjusting springs compressed between 
the inside rear face of F-0 and the rings with the bolts maintaining 
spring compression and allowing for adjustment.  This is similar in 
principal to the way most auto headlights are done.  I found the springs 
in the flymart last summer.  Fairly stiff and center fits AN3's perfectly. 
 Had to cut them to length and ground the ends flat.  Selected a length 
that would hold the mounting rings no closer than 1/4" from F-0 when fully 
compressed, but allow for plenty of adjustment (over about 3/8" range per 
bolt) with good tension remaining.

The adjustments will all be made from the rear of F-0 and same with bulb 
replacement.  Did this so my hand wouldn't interfere with the beam while 
adjusting like it does on the car, and lots of knuckle room.  If I ever need 
to replace/repair the reflectors, they can be retrieved via the nose cone 
cover (sized to make sure I can get the reflector assemblies out).

Made up some covers out of 3 plies of BID to go over the rear of the 
reflectors.  Installed a couple #6 rivnuts to hold these in place.  
Haven't decided yet, but may add some thin 3003 al sheet held loosely 
(lots of air space) inside the covers for heat shield.  Also may vent 
these as well.
I am not terribly concerned about heat in the nose cone (re archives), but 
those covers are awful close to the bulbs in the back; especially if I get 
brave and go for 100W bulbs.

As an aside, I found earlier that rivnuts need at least four plies of glass 
and a touch of epoxy for mounting.  Will definitely use these for attaching 
arm rests and other such covers.  Much better than sheet metal screws.

As most of you know, my nose is a bit wider than plans; but, if you are 
considering lights in the nose, the Eclipse (Rally #3215) units would 
probably fit in the plans F-0 just fine.  If memory serves, I think they 
were about $40.00 or so for the pair.  Be careful about scratching the 
inside of reflectors.  All of those I messed with apparently use the same 
type reflective coating which goes from extreme shiny to extreme black 
fairly easy.  You'll want to keep any sand paper or other abrasives about 
five miles away.  Black electric tape doesn't seem to bother them, unless 
attached to a flake spot; but don't get any dust between the tape and 
reflective stuff, it abrades (ask me how I know).

As for the lenses, Marc said it best in an earlier post, they end up with a 
rather odd compound elliptical curve.  I cut mine out a lot different than 
his.  'Compound' is an understatement.  Took me a whole weekend to figure 
out the right outline on the nose cone.  With the black tape covering the 
lenses now and mounted in the cone, Jenny says from the side, it looks like 
a shark.  Cool.  I take that as a complement.

Just FWW: Nat and others are absolutely right about mods.  Time, effort, 
money, and more time; and, changing one thing changes many other things.  
Don't kid yourself.  What they don't say is that the result fits my 
personal needs and 'experimental' desires, goals, wishes, dreams and 
personality perfectly.  Hobbies have no schedules and I am indeed 
'experimenting'.

I've been working on chapter 13 fairly steady (including re-learning gas 
welding and making my own rudder pedals [thanks for the free design Jeff 
and Phillip]) since last April.  BUT, to take a word from JD, "Snarky" 
pretty well sums up my F-22 to the pitot tube.  Not a flat spot on it.

Larry Schuler MK-IV plans #500

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:05:18 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Chapter 13/Land Lights FYI (long)

For heat removal, I have 3/4" dia. holes to nose gear area, and 3/4" aeroduct from NACA cabin air 
scoops located just aft of the lights. Had small muffin fans initially, but they weren't needed.

From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:53:52 -0600
Subject: COZY: Need input CH-13

Last paragraph on page 14, chapter 13 calls for 3/8" PVC foam torsional 
stiffner between forward face of F-22 and the bottom of the nose top.  I 
grabbed a small piece of foam and tried fitting it last night.  Found that 
the 'bottom' of the foam piece comes fairly close to the 'top' edge of the 
canard cut-outs in the sides just behind the apex of the leading edge 
curve.  Yes, the canard fits perfectly; that's not an issue.

Not sure if I did something wrong somwhere..... too late to lower the nose 
top if I did.  Not gonna happen.

I'd use some urethane (1") and sand to shape, but that's not as durable or 
strong as the PVC.  Structure would be different.

Anyone else have this situation?  What did you do?  Recommendations?  
Heat-form the PVC somehow?  Use 3/4" PVC sanded to shape?

Larry Schuler

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:16:57 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Need input CH-13

My instructions are different in this area, but I would not substitute foam specification in an area 
where concentrated loads (from the canard) are applied. The foam may appear weak, but large areas of 
low strength material can carry considerable loads. Also the foam functions to support the 
fiberglass, to prevent buckling.

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 22:45:54 -0500
From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" <marcz@ultranet.com>
Subject: Fwd: COZY: Need input CH-13

Larry Schuler writes:

>Last paragraph on page 14, chapter 13 calls for 3/8" PVC foam torsional 
>stiffner between forward face of F-22 and the bottom of the nose top....
>I'd use some urethane (1") and sand to shape, but that's not as durable or 
>strong as the PVC.  Structure would be different.

I'll disagree with Carl D. here and say use whatever works to get the foam
to be at the right height.  Here's why: First of all, you're only going to
put 1 BID on either side of the foam - this isn't a major structural part.
Second (and more importantly) the top of the nose __IS__ urethane, and only
has 1 BID on the inside surface anyway.  As others have said, a chain is
only as strong as its weakest link - making the "torsional stiffener" much
stronger than the nose top is pretty useless.

Does sound like your nose top is a little high, though.
--
Marc J. Zeitlin           marcz@ultranet.com
                          http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/

From: Muzzy Norman E <MuzzyNormanE@Waterloo.deere.com>
Subject: FW: COZY: Chapter 13/Land Lights FYI (long)
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 13:52:18 -0600


Another place to look for floodlamps is at a farm supply store. Tractor
lamps are designed to spread the light around, and not necessarily to keep
it below the eye level of oncoming traffic. A spot pattern (typically a
PAR36 lamp with no lens elements in the glass, ala C150) is going to
concentrate the light in a single beam, and aiming becomes critical. A flood
lamp should do a better job of illuminating both taxi, landing, and
identifying conditions. Myself, I plan to use a floodlamp that I just
happened to design the pattern for, and aim it so that the horizon elements
are looking forward for an identification function, and the downward flood
pattern illuminates for landing and taxi. Still undecided about mounting it
in the nose, or using the door design. I have found some really cool 12V
actuators that I plan to use for the speed brake and possibly nose, and am
trying to figure out if there is a way to use one actuator to lower the lamp
mount, then with continued motion lower the speed brake.  Replace to levers
and linkages with one actuator, some cables and springs.
Regards-
Norm Muzzy
Plans #750!

lschuler said:
<<Any lens stamped with "SAE-whatever" is made strictly for road stuff, not
airplanes.  Bought a pair of hand held spot ...>>

From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:41:33 -0600
Subject: COZY: Corrosion protection - Nose wheel

Anyone doing corrosion prevention (alodine or whatever) on the nose wheel 
assembly?

Suggestions welcome.

Larry Schuler Cozy-IV plans #500

Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 05:29:02 -0500
From: Bill Theeringer <Composite_Aircraft_Accessories@compuserve.com>
Subject: COZY: Rachet Failure Investigation


The following is a copy of an E-mail to Tonya Rutan regarding the failure
of the nose gear ratchet mechanisms.  It should be reported in the next CP.
 I am uncomfortable with the fact that  _any_  have failed and have decided
today to no longer manufacture this particular design.  Dr. Smith
recommended that I seek out an alternate supplier for the mechanism.  Mike
suggested an alternate design.  The original design is expensive and labor
intensive, involving annealing, drilling and re hardening a small gear.  I
am working on a different design that was recommended by Mike.  It is
easier to manufacture and should be much cheaper. 
I will run it past Mike before release to fellow aviators.
=============================

1-16-99
Tonya;

Thanks for the note regarding the ratchet failures.  Mike is right.  There
have been several failures of these units out of the 28 sold.  This is a
very serious condition which warranted an investigation to determine the
cause of the failures and recommend a course of action.  

Background:
Beginning October 1, 1997 I started making the nose gear ratchet mechanisms
for Dr. Curt Smith.  He was no longer able to supply them to the
homebuilders market.  I made them as specified by him using his drawings.
The first shipments began December 27, 1997.  There have been two reported
failures that I am aware of.  One sustained damage to the plane because of
a nose gear up landing.  Both failures were reported to me.  I supplied
information to one on how to replace the broken part which was accomplished
successfully.  Between the time of Dr.Smiths last batch of ratchets and my
first run, and unknown to either Dr. Smith or myself, Sears modified their
quarter inch ratchet drive part number M44812 from which the  nose gear
ratchet is made.  The toggle was changed from metal to black poly
carbonate.  The ratchet drives are made in the USA and are stamped "U.S.A.
-VL- 44812".   These newer units were purchased from Sears and modified per
Dr. Smiths instructions.  He did not know that the toggle was now poly
carbonate and I did not know that his earlier units were metal.  

Failure Investigation:
Both failures were identical and occurred within the same time frame,
usually within the first week or so of installation.  Each failure
consisted of the physical breaking off of the black poly carbonate handle
(toggle) that selects the up or down operation of the nose gear crank.  In
both instances virtually no pressure was used to cause the breakage.  In
one case it was just touched and fell off while moving the just completed
plane to the airport.  An examination of a failed toggle showed the
material to be crazed and brittle, crumbling with the slightest pressure. 
A check of the remaining units in stock revealed none that exhibited this
condition.  All were taken apart and inspected for any anomalies.  None
were found.    

Duplication:
In an effort to duplicate the fail condition the toggle was subjected to
high temperatures, greases, solvents, epoxies and four months of
ultraviolet radiation.  The toggle held up well in all environments except
solvents.  Exposure to lacquer thinner or acetone degraded the material so
that it broke with moderate finger pressure.  Exposure involved getting the
surface wet for several seconds.  During the assembly process the toggle is
held in place with a small dab of locktite 242 thread locker.  Exposure to
this material had no obvious effect on the toggle when exposed for several
months.  There was, however, an instance when I assembled a couple of units
and had mislaid the locktite bottle.  Instead I used some gap filling "Hot
Stuff" super glue that I use in the assembly of the electric cabin heaters.
 Testing toggles with this material resulted in crazing after about 2 or 3
days and weakened the material substantially after a week.  

Recommendations:
There have been 2 failures of the ratchet toggles reported to me.  Both
occurred shortly after installation.  I have been able to duplicate the
fail using a process that was used by me one time.  The last unit to fail 
was delivered in July of 1998.  There have been no failures since.  I would
recommend: 

1)   A one time check of the integrity of the toggle by forcing it in
either direction with the thumb as hard as possible.  (Finger only!)

2)   When raising or lowering the gear first turn the crank further in the
direction that it is locked.  This will unload the pressure on the pall and
make switching the toggle easier on your finger.  

3)   Keep solvents AWAY from your airplane.  Be aware that Zolatone primer
contains lacquer thinner.  If you have the see through fuel gauges this
primer can crack them, as well as the ratchet toggle.



Bill Theeringer
N29EZ

Composite Aircraft Accessories
PO Box 21645, Santa Barbara, CA 93121
Home:  805-964-5454, Shop:  805-964-5453
E-mail: Composite_Aircraft_Accessories@Compuserve.com

From: "Allan Aaron" <aaaron@tvp.com.au>
Subject: RE: COZY: New Nose Gear Ratchet Design
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 07:09:27 +1100

I made up a rig exactly like this and it worked fine in the garage (until I
replaced it with Steve Wright's electric nose gear).  It is really simple
and looks very neat.  I was able to mount a sort of knob on the pivot bolt
that holds the ratchet pawl so that it almost looked like it was made for
the job!

Don't have any plans but I may be able to find out the make of the tool.  It
was all steel and very robust.

Allan

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com
> [mailto:owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com]On Behalf Of Jim White
> Sent: Thursday, 4 February 1999 17:31
> To: Cozy Builders
> Subject: COZY: New Nose Gear Ratchet Design
>
>
> I have an idea for a nose gear ratchet that I know will work.  I plan on
> installing a 9/16" or 1/2" closed-end rathet wrench with a hex shape
> opening.  The closed-end wrench comes with a 25 degree bend in the handle
> (looking at it from the side), which is a fairly close match to the angle
> between the nose gear shaft and instrument panel.  Shorten the handle to a
> reasonable length and attach it to the instrument panel with screws.  Take
> 9/16" aluminum hex stock (solid hex shaped bar of aluminum) and
> cut a piece
> 3" long or so.  If aluminum is unavailable, use steel hex stock which is
> more readily available, but obviously heavier.   Drill out one end of the
> 9/16" hex stock to slide the nose gear shaft into.  Drill the
> other end out
> to slide the standard nose gear handle into. Drill holes through the sides
> of the hex stock and through the shafts for set screws or rivets
> to keep the
> shafts attached to the hex stock.
> The particular ratchet I have in mind is manufactured by Lowell Corp. P.O.
> Box 158, Worchester Massechusets 01613-0158 Phone 508-835-2900, Fax
> 508-835-2944.  Or you can also check out the SERIES 100 Ratchet Arms web
> site http://www.viteq.qc.ca/ratchet.htm.  I am talking about the light
> stamped metal versions, not the heavy cast iron ones.
> I'll draw up plans once I finish if people are interested.  Or if
> you build
> one first, you can send me your plans.
> Should work.
> Jim White
> N44QT
> Cozy QT
> .__
> ..\ \
> ...\  \
> .....\    \        l l
>    l_l ......\__ l l_
> <  _  ..... ___ )_  >
> ...l  l       /     l l
> ...../    /        l l
> ..../  /
> ._/_/
>

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 21:24:56 -0500
From: Bill Theeringer <Composite_Aircraft_Accessories@compuserve.com>
Subject: COZY: New Ratchet Mech.



Thanks to Jim White for his post on the new ratchet design idea.  This
absolute proof that great minds think alike for this is very close to the
design that I am working on!  I am using 7/16 aluminum hex stock and two
1/8 inch roll pins instead of rivets.  My design allows the entire NG65
crank and NG61 shaft assembly to be disconnected at the bottom universal
and just pulled out through the ratchet opening.  You should steer clear of
set screws for obvious reasons.  NG61 and NG65 should be left as per plans
so as not to interrupt the integrity of the system.  The hex stock is bored
out to .305 and installed on the exposed portion NG65 where it passes
through NG67.  Roll pin in place flush, then position the ratchet in place
and secure it.  I am using the Sears stamped offset ratchet.  Initial tests
are very encouraging.  

Bill Theeringer
N29EZ

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: COZY: Long EZ nose gear failure
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 13:10:34 -0600

People,
Larry Schuler posted a report on a nose gear failure in a long EZ.
Specifically, it was stated that the AN 525-10R screws (dome headed bolts)
failed. These screws were 3/16 in. in diameter. It was said that RAF
suggested using AN3 bolts instead. Please be advised that for the Cozy Mark
IV, we switched to  AN 525-416R screws. The AN 525-416Rs are 1/4 in. in
diameter and approximately 78% stronger than AN 525-10Rs.  I don't think
you need to worry about the AN 525-416Rs failing. As a matter of fact, Jack
Wilhelmson calculated that the casting would break before the AN 525-416Rs
would fail. 
On a related subject, we found that the 1/4 in. thick aluminum MKNG-2
plates shown in the plans interfered with a 360 degree rotation of the nose
wheel swivel, but that if we used a steel plate with a hat-shaped cross
section, we could get the 360 degree rotation of the swivel which made it
so much easier to maneuver the airplane on all three wheels. Brock supplies
this steel MKNG-2 plate. I think it is listed as a design change in the
newsletter, but not sure which one. Steve Wright also supplies the same
plate, but with a foot attached, with his electric nose lift. I think you
have to use AN 525-416Rs with this new MKNG-2 plate, to avoid interfering
with 360 deg. rotation of the swivel.
Regards,
Nat

From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 09:09:42 -0600
Subject: COZY: Nose gear loss on a Long Ez 

Below is a note from the Canard mail list that may certainly apply to Cozy.

Any thoughts on this AN525 vs AN3 issue (in our case I think this would 
translate to AN4s) relative to Cozy-IV?

Seems to make some sense with minimal aerodynamic loss; especially since 
the originator is RAF.  Static tension on these bolts is pretty small with 
Nat's recent plans change (specified torque now).  I think (my opinion) 
that the AN525s were originaly selected strictly for aerodynamic 
consideration vs AN3 or 4 bolts rather than any structural need for a 
wide-area head.

Larry Schuler MK-IV plans #500


______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: [c-a] Nose gear loss on a Long Ez 
Author:  Stefan G Siegel <stefan@u.arizona.edu> at internet
Date:    2/11/99 11:53 AM


[The Canard Aviators's Mailing list]
If you only read the first line(s) of all the messages, here is the bottom 
line upfront:

Before you go flying next, check and make sure that your NG-15A casting is 
attached to the nose gear strut using four AN3-14A bolts, *not* the AN525 
bolts called out for in the original Ez plans. You can tell by just looking 
at them, the AN525 have a phillips button head, while the AN3's have hex 
heads. This should apply at least to all Ez's, I am not so sure about the 
four seated canards. This is not my idea or suggestion, it was recommended 
by RAF in April 87, see CP 51-4.

Here is what happend to me and prompted me to send this email to all 
canardians:

While landing at Denver Jeffco last Friday, I made a normal landing, mains 
first, and lowered the nose gear shortly after. Everything felt all right 
for a second or so, when I suddenly heard a grinding noise from the nose 
gear, after the nose had dropped a couple of inches. I tried to lift the 
nose off the ground again, which worked for a moment, until I was too slow 
for the canard to produce enough lift. After I came to a full stop and got 
out of the airplane (in the middle of 9000ft of runway) I found the entire 
nose wheel assembly missing. With assistance of the fire crew and a nose 
wheel dolly we moved the airplane off the runway, the fire truck found the 
nose wheel assembly off the right of the runway.

On inspection of the nose wheel assembly, I found one of the four bolts 
clamping the nose casting to the aluminum plate entirely missing, a second 
one had the head sheared off at its base, number three and four were bent 
but also showed cracks at the head bases. All of these bolts were 
predamaged, i.e. there were older cracks at the bolt head base with all of 
them. It seems that the left two bolts failed, and as a result the other 
bolts bent over and gave way. At the same time the assembly took off from 
the strut, it bent the aluminum plate on departure. The nose strut got 
ground off on the runway by about 1 1/2 inches on roll out.

CP 51-4 states that several builders had experienced failure of these bolts 
during very hard landings. Looking at my bolts, they were rather fatigued 
and therefore failed, without any hard landing. N234BW has 1200 hours at 
this time. Bottom line is, the bolts are not adequate for the task at hand 
- if you dont want this to happen to you, *replace them before they fail*. 
RAF did not issue this as a mandatory change that requires grounding, which 
is the reason I missed it when I was checking up on all those changes just 
after I bought my Ez. However, the risk of losing the nose gear seems to 
justify ten minutes of your time and about $5 in hardware before the next 
flight - otherwise you might be in for a new strut, if you get lucky as I 
did and the nose wheel does not hit anything else (airframe, prop...) on 
departure.

Many happy landings,

Stefan Siegel
From ???@??? Sat Feb 13 20:29:21 1999
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 16:56:42 -0600
To: <cozy_builders@canard.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Long EZ nose gear failure 
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Nat wrote:
>Larry Schuler posted a report on a nose gear failure in a long EZ. 
>Specifically, it was stated that the AN 525-10R screws (dome headed bolts) 
>failed. These screws were 3/16 in. in diameter. It was said that RAF 
>suggested using AN3 bolts instead. Please be advised that for the Cozy 
Mark >IV, we switched to  AN 525-416R screws. The AN 525-416Rs are 1/4 in. 
in >diameter and approximately 78% stronger than AN 525-10Rs.  I don't 
think >you need to worry about the AN 525-416Rs failing. As a matter of 
fact, Jack >Wilhelmson calculated that the casting would break before the 
AN 525-416Rs >would fail. 



Thanks Nat.  Had simply repeated a note from canard group.  Wasn't thinking 
about 3/16" vs 1/4", jsut thought it was a typo.

Good info.

Larry


Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 17:56:14 -0600
From: Curt Smith <csmith@siue.edu>
Subject: COZY: Tire pressure II

You may remember by post earlier in the week about a nose gear tire failure
that I attibuted to JD's recommendation of carrying 70 psi in that tire.

Well, the tire failure wasn't due to the 70 psi. I put on a new tire
Tuesday, used 45 psi, have three flights on the new one, and it failed
today in the same mode as the previous one. Now I'm guessing a bad batch of
McCreary tires (that I have been getting from Wicks).

My apologies, JD. You were quite right. 70 psi isn't too much. (But you
knew that!)

Curt Smith
LE N86CS

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 19:57:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Tire pressure II- TROUBLESHOOTING A FLAT TIRE

Check the tube for failure, THere is a butt joint, where a tubular (round 
hollow) piece is glued together. The joint should be slightly heavier in 
wall thickness. The joint is in a plane through the center of the axle. If 
that joint fails, you would wrongly assume it is a blowout, since the 
failure will be sudden without warning, and resulting in total deflation 
instantly. The other common types of tube failures are:
1: Fold, chaffing failure. Since tubes stretch when inflated and in 
service, they should not be reused. When installing both the tube and 
inside of the tire must be coated with talc to promote sliding. The tire 
should be inflated to say at least 20 psi., totally deflated to allow the 
tube to normalize its shape/position, and the inflatedto the recommended 
pressure. This procedure applys to all tube type tires including 1.25x27 
bicycle tires. This could be slow, gradually increasing loss of air, or 
fairly rapid. Anytime one tire on a vehicle lost more air than the others, 
it is suspect, and must be corrected by repair, not just filling.

2: Rim cut, resulting from low air pressure and hitting a bump, collapsing 
the tire. The tube gets piched between the folded tire sidewall and the 
wheel rim. This cut is parallel to the circumference of the wheel. Usually 
fast loss of air, but could be slow if the cut was slight or a bruise.

3: Valve stem area - Usually when the stem is not centered in the wheel 
hole. Can also be where stem is not located properly relative to the wheel 
hole (some are on the ceterline of the wheel, and others to one side. 
Garden tractor and wheelbarrow applications are good for this. Usually a 
slow leak, but can be rapid.

A tire failure would be a blow out, with torn, not worn rubber and fabric, 
not common unless worn to the point of reduction of the fabric (textile or 
fiberglass or steel), and tensile strength is exceeded. More common reasons 
to replace a tire are balance, uneven wear, and just worn beyond service 
life.

Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 23:44:32 -0800
From: "LCDR James D. Newman" <infaero@flash.net>
Subject: COZY: Re:  [c-a] Tire air pressure

> Rego Burger wrote:

> Do you know the conversion from psi to bar for us metric "oafs" on the other side of the
> planet...all our tyre guages are metric....!

    I thought this question should be answered to the group for those that use "Bars".
    My "Trigonometry Tables and Multipliers for Engineers" reference book states to convert PSI to
"Bars", you multiply the PSI by .06895 to obtain "Bars".  So 70 PSI then would be 4.8265 Bars, and
55 PSI would be 3.79225 Bars.
    Hope this helps.

    Hey Rego, what's this word -- "tyre" ?  ;-)


Infinity's Forever,

        JD

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 08:12:18 -0600
From: Curt Smith <csmith@siue.edu>
Subject: Re: COZY: Tire pressure II- TROUBLESHOOTING A FLAT TIRE

While I appreciate all the suggestions, I'm aware of most of these pitfalls.

The failure consists of the tread separating from the carcass of the tire,
along the centerline, causing a blister. The tire doesn't blow out, the
blister just keeps getting larger until it interferes with the fork.

Technique isn't an issue either as I've been flying EZ's for 13 years and
have never experienced any main or nose tire problems.

It's a tire defect.

Curt Smith
LE N86CS

From: "Wilhelmson, Jack" <Wilhelmson@scra.org>
Subject: COZY: NG15A attachment.
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 14:26:11 -0500


Cozy\LongEZE flyers\builders:

Recently I removed my NG15A nose wheel casting to install a new support foot
on the bolts holding it.
I found that the aluminum plate(this plate is steel on the MKIV) had been
working where it contacted the strut as evidenced by a polished condition at
the
contact surface and the casting fell free when the bolts were removed. The
airplane is a three place and has over 500hrs and 
many landings, however, Since there is no positive attachment mechanism
other than the flox and friction holding this 
assembly in place, I am sure that the nose wheel would have eventually
departed from the airplane had I not found this condition.
In light of the fact that the bolts cannot be tightened to their normal
torque without over stressing the casting ears, I feel that a
safety/reliability modification is needed. I talked to NAT about this and we
agreed that a #10  AN bolt could be
installed from front to back drilled through the fiberglass strut. This bolt
can be near the lower end of the strut (.5-.75") up if it is blind drilled
into the back of the casting and tapped. If the bolt length is controlled so
that it does not interfere with the pivot shaft it will have about .38" of
threads.  The idea is that if the casting
or the bolts through the ears or the flox fail, this bolt would keep the
casting in place until the looseness caused by the other failures is
detected. Other ideas
are welcome. 

Jack Wilhelmson N711CZ 

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 16:05:58 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: NG15A attachment.

When my casting failed at over 600 hours, there were no signs of working. The area requires fequent, 
careful inspection.

From: "Wilhelmson, Jack" <Wilhelmson@scra.org>
Subject: RE: COZY: NG15A attachment.
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 09:42:21 -0500

Carl, thanks for your reply:

It appears that the failure you experienced(broken casting). the failures
that another writer experienced broken or lost bolts, and the one that
I intercepted(casting loose and ready to fall off) are actually related but
different. The broken and lost bolt problem and my problem(loose on the
strut) are related
too little clamping pressure. Your problem could be related to too much
clamping pressure or fault in the casting etc. All this is complicated by
the changes from the LongEZE/COZY attachment methods
to the MKIV attachment method, size bolts, etc. The addition of a bolt
through the strut to trap the casting in place regardless of the amount of
clamping pressure is a backup type measure to
eliminate the domino catastrophic failure mode that is caused by too little
or not enough (critical) bolt torque.

Jack Wilhelmson N711CZ


> -----Original Message-----
> From:	cdenk@ix.netcom.com [SMTP:cdenk@ix.netcom.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, February 23, 1999 5:06 PM
> To:	Wilhelmson@scra.org; cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject:	Re: COZY: NG15A attachment.
> 
> When my casting failed at over 600 hours, there were no signs of working.
> The area requires fequent, 
> careful inspection.

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 16:18:15 -0600 (CST)
Subject: RE: COZY: NG15A attachment.

Currently I am flying with a 4130 steel replacement for the Mark IV NG15 that I fabricated. It was 1 
lb. heavier than the aluminum, the welds were on the heavy side, plus now I believe I can cut most 
of the steel thicknesses by 2/3 - 1/2, along with professional welds should weigh about the same.

Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 14:56:37 -0500
From: Brian Freitag <bsf@magicnet.net>
Subject: COZY: Nose Gear

Hello to all, My name is Brian and I just purchased a COZY project and I
have a couple of questions I would like to ask some of the more
experenced builders. My problem is this, where I live is a grass strip
and some people think I cant land my plane there. But I know somebody
who has a Velocity who also lands at a grass strip. But he has a really
big tire on the front. What is the biggest front tire I can put on the
front of my COZY with the electric retractable motor on it? I am
guessing that this will take some of the fear out of breaking the nose
gear off. The next one is does anybody have a Lyc. 0-320 engine mount
laying around that they would like to sell at a resonable price? Thanks
in advance.........Brian

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 15:33:59 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Gear

Brian asked <grass strip>

There are a few that occasionally operate off paved surfaces, but its almost an emergency before I 
would consider it. The issue is stones and debris kicked up by the nose tire, and the mains should 
have wheel pants that minimize stones from the main wheels. THe largest tire is the 10" outside 
diameter used on the MKIV. If you make the fork, larger is possible, but at a weight (very poor 
location to add weight) and balance penalty. I have lost 2 props due to debris on the 
runway/taxiways, and a 3rd due to an engine swallowed exhaust valve.

Whats the length of this grass strip. On pavement at max. weight I really don't think of less than 
3000' pavement, at lower temperatures, and at warm temps. I think in terms of 4000' If that grass 
strip is like an excellent golf course, and hard soil conditions, well maybe, but here in Northern 
Ohio, thats only maybe 6 months a year. Frost, and rains make soft surfaces, that are out of the 
question. Most factory built planes that operate on grass here remove the wheel pants in October 
and put back on end of May.

The Ez's are excellent planes for cross country, but short rough runways, they are not.

p.s. I have 680 hours in 5 years on a Cosy Classic. Other aircraft I have flown over the years 
include Super Cubs, C-182, and Navion plus many other single engine.

Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 17:57:24 -0400
From: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: Rudder question

Hi everyone;

I have a rudder question; What is the amount of linear travel of the rudder
operating cable from "rudder fully closed" to "rudder fully open". This
will equate to the pedal travel for "rudder-only" operation.

I need this to cut a slot of the right length in the rudder pedal tab, to
get the right amount of free travel of the pedal before the brake cylinders
start to engage.

BTW - On Monday I called in to see Jeff Russell on my way home to Orlando
from being in S. Florida over Easter...did me the world of good! I saw his
plane again (it had just received some hanger rash from a Berkut prop) and
it incensed me to move forward again instead of taking a month of sundays
on every little detail. Tuesday I did more in one day than I've did in the
previous three weeks! Thanks for the shot in the arm, Jeff!

Thanks
Neil C.


Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 19:37:10 -0500
From: Bulent Aliev <atlasyts@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Rudder question

Hi Neil, I would suggest that instead cutting a slot in the rudder pedal tab,
you should use the slide tube set up on each side of the center line. My
friend did cut his tab the way you  are ready to do and I did not like it at
all. It is very noisy and has lots of slop in the system. I made my female
tube from 1" nylon rod and a slotted tab on the end to attach to the pedal
tab. The inside rod is 1/2" Delrin solid rod with one end bored 1" deep to fit
tight over the master cylinder  rod and through bolted. Self lubricating,
quiet and corrosion free. My friend with the other set up already wants to re
do his design to be like mine. I have couple photos if someone would like to
see it.
Bulent

Neil Clayton wrote:

>
> I need this to cut a slot of the right length in the rudder pedal tab, to
> get the right amount of free travel of the pedal before the brake cylinders
> start to engage.
>
>
> Neil C.

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:57:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Jim H." <stylemismatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Nose gear doors



> I'm looking for data about Nose gear wheel doors
> mechanism.
> The best way to close them  when the wheel ends up
> retracting ??
> 

There was an article in the Central States newsletter a while back with
exactly what you're looking for.  

It showed using a piece of piano wire in a U shape to force the doors
open.  There's a coil spring between the two doors which, when the gear
goes into the wheel well, pulls the doors shut.  

If you can't find the CSA issue that was in either on the CSA page or
the archives, let me know and I can look it up.


Jim Hocut
reply to:
jhocut@mindspring.com
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

From: Cozy7971@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:36:05 EDT
Subject: Re: COZY: Nose gear doors

In a message dated 99-04-13 09:57:39 EDT, guy.terren@wanadoo.fr writes:

<< 
 I'm looking for data about Nose gear wheel doors mechanism.
 The best way to close them  when the wheel ends up retracting ??
 
 Has anyone a scheme ??
  >>
I've finished the fabrication and fitting of my gear doors.  I'll be using 
the same method that I've seen on several other planes (Vance Atkinson uses 
it on his) to close them.  Vance installed a spring across between the two 
doors in the front.  I'm guessing it was a fairly stiff spring so that with 
the doors open it holds them apart.  As he retracts the gear, the gear leg 
hits the spring and pulls the doors shut as it fully retracts.  When being 
extended it pushes the doors open and the spring holds them apart.

Dick Finn
Cozy Mark IV #46

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 02:02:38 -0600
From: Dave Chapman <pilot@xmission.com>
Subject: COZY: gear doors

Have been following the gear doors thread and am wondering why anyone would
want to use doors when you can build a door into the strut.  For mine, I
simply retracted the gear and layed up a cover that is attached to the
strut and is faired with the bottom of the plane.  The flange (door) is
about a half inch strip on each side of the strut that forms the door.
When the gear is retracted, the bottom is completely faired!  For the wheel
area I used the plans method with the exception being instead of aluminum
for the covers I just layed up some bid.

Dave





Dave Chapman (Pilot@xmission.com)                   "This is
USHGA #5742                                  a spiritual calling to
Park City, Utah                          set one's soul free by flight...."
http://www.xmission.com/~pilot
Cozy 3 on gear, with the engine on, in other words, 80% done and 80% to go..
****************************************************************************
The box said 'Requires Windows 98, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh.
****************************************************************************


From: "guy Terren" <guy.terren@laposte.fr>
Subject: COZY: gear doors
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 08:38:21 +0200

Hi all,

I want to thank the group for the answers.
I will use a "pitch trim" spring closing the doors

From: N11TE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 11:24:54 EDT
Subject: Re: COZY: NG6A casting

In a message dated 4/12/99 7:56:10 AM Central Daylight Time, 
julietlima7@hotmail.com writes:

> Hi Group:
>  In this last issue of CSA, Jack Wilhelmson wrote about his roller 
>  bearing NG6A casting redesign. I tryed his e-mail and telephone 
>  number listed in the CSA members list with no success. Can anyone 
>  help me to contact Jack. Thanks in advance.
>  
>  Jim Leturgey (Longeze N537JL)
>  


Jack is at Sun 'n Fun this week.  His plane is one of the demonstration 
planes in Nat Puffer's booth.  I just got back late last night.  I had the 
chance to personally view his new roller bearing design and can tell you it 
is first class.  I think he has different models to fit LongEZ, Cosy III and 
Cozy MKIV.

Suggest you try him again next week.

Tom Ellis
AeroCanard 540

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 13:45:16 -0400
From: Carl Denk <cdenk@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: NG6A casting



I changed my nose gear top pivot bolt to AN-6 from AN-5 some montha ago. THe
AN-5 was bending, jamming in the area. Had to drive out with a good sized
hammer, not good. At annual inspection the AN-6 was free, and able to move
easily with fingers after loosening the nut.

From: "Wilhelmson, Jack" <Wilhelmson@scra.org>
Subject: RE: COZY: NG6A casting
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 10:20:21 -0400

Carl:

Considering that you have had a broken NG15 and also a bent pivot bolt. If
you have not already done so, I would carefully inspect
all the nose wheel parts and the retraction mechanism. Especially the NG6
casting and mounting bolts.

The new design NG6A pivot assembly that I supply is much stronger than the
original and it will
accommodate a AN-6 bolt by reaming the NG7A bearing spacers out from .320 id
to .380 id.

Jack Wilhelmson N711CZ 

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Carl Denk [SMTP:cdenk@ix.netcom.com]
> Sent:	Sunday, April 18, 1999 1:45 PM
> To:	N11TE@aol.com
> Cc:	julietlima7@hotmail.com; cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject:	Re: COZY: NG6A casting
> 
> 
> 
> I changed my nose gear top pivot bolt to AN-6 from AN-5 some montha ago.
> THe
> AN-5 was bending, jamming in the area. Had to drive out with a good sized
> hammer, not good. At annual inspection the AN-6 was free, and able to move
> easily with fingers after loosening the nut.

Date: Fri, 25 Apr 1997 12:18:20 +0200
From: Jannie Versfeld <qmain@intekom.co.za>
Subject: COZY: Nose Gear Strut??

I may be missing sometihing.  What is the exact length of the NG Strut
from pivot to end where it fits inside the nose wheel assy?  Mine seems
too long and it will cause the wheel well to fit right against the instr
panel.

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 07:04:57 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Gear Strut??

On 04/25/97 12:18:20 you wrote:
>
>I may be missing sometihing.  What is the exact length of the NG Strut
>from pivot to end where it fits inside the nose wheel assy?  Mine seems
>too long and it will cause the wheel well to fit right against the instr
>panel.
>
>
>

It depends on the size nose wheel. With the rounded fairing at the aft of the opening, I allowed just under a half inch 
clearance to the tire.

From: SWrightFLY@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 08:12:01 EDT
Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Gear Strut??

In a message dated 4/25/99 5:20:44 AM Central Daylight Time, 
qmain@intekom.co.za writes:

<<  Mine seems
 too long and it will cause the wheel well to fit right against the instr
 panel. >>

The nose strut should not be shortened as the length will allow the aircraft 
to sit some degree (the more the better) plus angle of attack which will 
shorten the takeoff run. I lengthened my strut one inch so the Stagger EZ 
will sit 1 1/2 degrees pos. angle of attack. The wheel well was modified 
accordingly.
 

Steve Wright

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 07:44:00 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Gear Strut??

On 04/25/99 08:12:01 you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 4/25/99 5:20:44 AM Central Daylight Time, 
>qmain@intekom.co.za writes:
>
><<  Mine seems
> too long and it will cause the wheel well to fit right against the instr
> panel. >>
>
>The nose strut should not be shortened as the length will allow the aircraft 
>to sit some degree (the more the better) plus angle of attack which will 
>shorten the takeoff run. I lengthened my strut one inch so the Stagger EZ 
>will sit 1 1/2 degrees pos. angle of attack. The wheel well was modified 
>accordingly.
> 
>
>Steve Wright
>
>

Agree with the more positive angle of attack the better. Do I understand that you cut away a slot in the instrument panel that 
then gets close to the trottle quadrant and the trottle switch for gear/canopy warning? I think the strut is close right 
length for the long-eze/Cozy3 smaller diameter wheel, but then needs to be shortened if the MKIV 10" dia. nose wheel is used, 
or is there a special shorter MKIV strut available. When I built, there were quite a few new parts from Featherlite and Brock 
being offered. Some Like the MKIV nose gear area I was able to use, others weren't available yet. I believe the strut wants to 
be as long as possible, and yet the tire clear the forward face of the instrument panel (including that semi-circle fairing). 
Maybe Nat can shed some light on this detail.

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Gear Strut??
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 14:04:03 -0500

Jannie,
Featherlite makes only one nose gear strut used by the Varieze, Long EZ,
E-Racer, Stagger EZ, Cozy III, Cosy Classic and Cozy Mark IV. Each design
cuts it to the length required. I think the Long EZ uses 27 inches. The
Cozy III uses 27 inches with an 8.7 inch tire on a 4 inch wheel. The Cosy
Classic and Cozy Mark IV have a 10 inch tire on a 4 inch wheel. On page 1
of Chapter 13 it says to cut the strut for the Mark IV down to 25-3/4
inches long (to allow for the larger tire). That would leave about 1-3/4
inches between the tire and the forward face of the instrument panel. If
you check drawings M-10 and M-11, you will see that  the strut is 25.0
inches long, and a space between the tire and the instrument panel of 2-1/2
inches. I think that is what I have in my airplane and it sits about level.
I don't know why I show two different dimensions, but in either case, the
tire should not be against the instrument panel. If you cut the strut to
25-3/4 inches, as instructed on page 1, your airplane should sit just a
little higher in the nose which would allow a little shorter rotation
distance.
Regards,
Nat
----------
> From: Jannie Versfeld <qmain@intekom.co.za>
> To: cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject: COZY: Nose Gear Strut??
> Date: Friday, April 25, 1997 5:18 AM
> 
> I may be missing sometihing.  What is the exact length of the NG Strut
> from pivot to end where it fits inside the nose wheel assy?  Mine seems
> too long and it will cause the wheel well to fit right against the instr
> panel.
> 

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 19:12:11 -0400
From: Gary Dwinal <gdwinal@exploremaine.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Gear Strut??

Hi Jannie,
   I purposely left mine long and made the necessary changes to my heat duct
outlets for good airflow into the nose section.  The obvious reason for this
was to my plane have a more positive angle of attack during the ground for
hopefully a quicker rotation.  I will be able to tell you if this is
successful in about another three or four months I hope.  The tire comes
within 1/8" of my instrument panel when fully retracted.
Good Luck,
Gary Dwinal

Jannie Versfeld wrote:

> I may be missing sometihing.  What is the exact length of the NG Strut
> from pivot to end where it fits inside the nose wheel assy?  Mine seems
> too long and it will cause the wheel well to fit right against the instr
> panel.



From: Cozy7971@aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 22:13:51 EDT
Subject: COZY: Brake Linkage

I've been doing a bit of cleanup on the Cozy before moving from the basement 
to the garage for final assembly.  Ive tuned up the nose gear retraction so 
it works great, built nose gear doors (nearly completed), loosened the rudder 
pedals (they didn't move real smoothly), got my retractible footstep working 
nicely and am moving on to working on the aileron torque tubves (they are a 
bit tight).

A few questions:

-	How much movement should ther be in the rudder pedals before engaging 
the brakes and how much do the brake cylinder pistons need to be depressed.  
Obviously I'm concerned about too little movement--My piston only depresses 
less than .5 inch.
-	Could someone who has used the spring closure method of shutting the 
nose gear doors tell me where they placed the spring and how long it was.
-	In an earlier post today someone asked about lubricating the aileron 
lingages.  Mine are a bit tight.  Is lubrication a good or bad idea.
-	Has anyone used actual bearings (as opposed to teflon or something 
similar) in the aileron linkage other than at the wing root.  I'm thinking 
specifically in the front and back seat.

Dick Finn
Cozy Mark IV #46

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 21:51:54 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Brake Linkage

Finn wrote: 
How much movement should ther be in the rudder pedals before engaging 
>the brakes and how much do the brake cylinder pistons need to be depressed

That sounds about right, I have a 1" slot at the end of the pushrod, but what actually works depends on which rudder belhorns 
you have, and at the firewall I have belcranks with custom arm lengths to make it work.
>
>



From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Nosegear questions
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 18:25:14 -0500

Dear Neil,
On question #1, the gap you refer to should actually be approx 1/2" and it
is per design. When the gear is retracted, the strut and NG-6 should be
inside the fuselage, so if there is a gap, it couldn't cause any drag if it
is inside the fuselage. But when the gear is extended, you are trying to
lose airspeed to enter the traffic pattern, and any drag (if there is any)
would actually be beneficial in helping you to slow down. So your question
doesn't make a lot of sense.
As for question #2, if you have side to side float of NG-6, it is not a big
deal, but of course it would be better if you could install a thin washer
to reduce the float. 
Best regards,
Nat Puffer

----------
> From: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
> To: cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject: COZY: Nosegear questions
> Date: Wednesday, June 30, 1999 5:18 PM
> 
> A couple of questions for Nat, et al;
> 
> 1) NG-5 is the 1/4" aluminium pad at the top of the nose leg. After the
leg
> is attached, there's a ~1/4" gap on either side of it. Is this per plans,
> or did I miss something? Has anyone tried to close the gap to lower drag?
> 
> 2) My nose gear leg pivot MKNG-6 casting is a pretty good fit bewteen the
> NG-30's, but I've got a small (~15 to 20 thou) axial end-float on the
pivot
> bolt. Have others accepted this, or tried the grind the spacer washers to
> achieve no float?
> 
> Thx
> Neil C

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 22:01:29 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Nosegear questions

On 06/30/99 18:18:56 you wrote:
>
>A couple of questions for Nat, et al;
>
>1) NG-5 is the 1/4" aluminium pad at the top of the nose leg. After the leg
>is attached, there's a ~1/4" gap on either side of it. Is this per plans,
>or did I miss something? Has anyone tried to close the gap to lower drag?

I have an 1/2" x approx. 3" x .035" alum. strip each side, secured with 2 #8 countersunk screws to close the gap.
>
>2) My nose gear leg pivot MKNG-6 casting is a pretty good fit bewteen the
>NG-30's, but I've got a small (~15 to 20 thou) axial end-float on the pivot
>bolt. Have others accepted this, or tried the grind the spacer washers to
>achieve no float?

I have 1 wide area washer each side to shim tightly. There is a beveled edge to help guide the casting, and the washers are 
held in place with 3m weatherstrip adhesive since there is no room for fingers. Tighten the pivot bolt to fine tune the 
clearance, the fiberglass will give slightly. I recommend changing the pivot bolt to AN6 (3/8") if you have the heavier spring 
strut spring which is typical of most Cozys. Check the archives for more on this.
>
>Thx
>Neil C
>
>



Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 23:01:41 -0500
From: David Domeier <david010@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Nosegear questions

Neil,

    re "My nose gear leg pivot MKNG-6 casting is a pretty good fit
bewteen the
NG-30's, but I've got a small (~15 to 20 thou) axial end-float on the
pivot
bolt. Have others accepted this, or tried the grind the spacer washers
to
achieve no float?"

    The first time I climbed into my airplane after is was on three
legs, I was somewhat concerned about the float of the nose strut but
didn't do anything about it 'cause there was so much else to do.

    Now that the airplane is built and flying, it is not noticeable at
all.  I am not going to take it apart to insert washers that one would
not notice anyhow.

dd

From: "Schuler, Larry" <Larry.Schuler@uscellular.com>
Subject: RE: COZY: Nosegear questions
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999 09:02:00 -0500 

Neil Clayton wrote:

>1) NG-5 is the 1/4" aluminum pad at the top of the nose leg. After the 
>leg is attached, there's a ~1/4" gap on either side of it. Is this per 
>plans, or did I miss something? Has anyone tried to close the gap to lower 
>drag?

If you close that gap you will not be able to remove the MKNG-6 pivot.  I 
thought about a hinged cover (hinge at about F-0), but not done on mine yet.

Not really needed unless I want to get an extra 0.05 Mph.


2) My nose gear leg pivot MKNG-6 casting is a pretty good fit between the 
NG-30's, but I've got a small (~15 to 20 thou) axial end-float on the pivot 
bolt. Have others accepted this, or tried the grind the spacer washers to 
achieve no float?

Had same issue.  I carefully filed the ends of the steel pivot tube to 
about 1 thou over flush with outside of the bronze bushings; then added a 
shim washer (got from Oshkosh flymarket last year in a grab bag) on each 
side to snug fit with the NG-30s.  Makes it a bit more difficult to remove 
and install the nose gear, but 1 thou slop on each side is much nicer and 
should virtually eliminates the common nose strut wobble over time [MKNG-6 
slams from one side of the NG-30s to the other as turns/directional 
adjustments are made during ground operations; gets worse over time].

Basic problem is that Brock cuts the steel pivot tube to spec, which 
includes a +- tolerance well over the dimensions of the MKNG-6 with 
bushings (mine was about 17 thou over).  Best work-around would be to 
file/grind the tube per above, then use it and the washers called out in 
plans as a spacer when glassing the NG-30s together.  Would come out 
perfect that way with no shims required.  One of those shoulda, woulda, 
coulda deals for me.  20-20 vision now.

Alternative is the several hundred dollar MKNG-6 with taper bearings sold 
by someone on this list.  Very nice, but more $$$$.  To each his own...

Larry Schuler

From: "Ugolini, Nick J" <UgoliniNJ@efdsouth.navfac.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: COZY: Nosegear questions
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999 13:07:03 -0400 

Every plane will develop the nose gear wobbles (as I call it) if they use
the Brock part.   It is not Brock but the fault of the original design
(originating with the Varieze and carried over to larger and heavier
planes).   The brass bearing used in NG-6 is designed for rotational
applications, not impact (bearing) loading.  Hard landings will elongate the
hole causing wobble.  I flew my LongEZ with the wobble for a long time (its
a real pain).  

John is right.  Save your self some grief and buy a product that is
specifically designed for the plane to solve a well KNOWN problem.  I am
sure you wouldn't buy a brake system with a know flaw that will give
marginal performance, if there was a better product on the market.  

I bought one from Jack (ph. 843-843-5061).    I am now happy.

Nick.

-----Original Message-----
From: John Slade [mailto:rjslade@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Friday, October 01, 1999 12:15 PM
To: Schuler, Larry; cozy_builders@canard.com
Subject: Re: COZY: Nosegear questions


Was said:
>Alternative is the several hundred dollar MKNG-6 with taper bearings sold
>by someone on this list.  Very nice, but more $$$$.  To each his own...


The someone is Jack Wilhelmson  -  Wilhelmson@scra.org
This is recommended by Steve Wright (in his nose lift plans) and based on
what I've read about this issue (and Brock's products in general) I plan to
get the beefed up NG6a from Jack.
John Slade
Cozy MKIV #757
http://kgarden.com/cozy


Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 12:29:42 -0500
From: David Domeier <david010@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: A slighty better mouse trap...

Steve,

    I counted the cycles on my "Steve Wright" electric nose gear system
recently and the number is over 130 - all working very well.

    But I keep wondering about getting the gear out if doesn't do it as
per the electric plan and to that end I simulated an up gear situation
in the hangar yesterday.

    I tried to crank the gear down with the 8" extension you provide and
could not but wonder who was going to fly the airplane while doing it.
I can not reach the ratchet device with my right hand so I'd have to fly
the airplane with my right hand across the cockpit while cranking with
the left.  And also, the 8" extension tends to twist into a "s" since it
is a spring device.

    I think I have a better method, if anyone is interested.  I've tried
it and it works easy.

    I went to Sears and bought a 14" 1/4" extension and a universal
joint with a 1/4" socket.  This device now extends back to about 2" aft
of the instrument panel and can be ratcheted from either side of the
center instrument panel vertical structure.  I considered drilling a
1/4" hole in the panel just for this thing but decided I did not want to
look that hole forever just waiting there for the gear to hang up.  It
works pretty good just jamming it up into the corner while cranking.

    Now I can sleep at night......:>)

dd



From: SWrightFLY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 16:42:16 EDT
Subject: COZY: Re: A slighty better mouse trap...

In a message dated 7/13/99 12:22:00 PM Central Daylight Time, 
david010@earthlink.net writes:

<<  I went to Sears and bought a 14" 1/4" extension and a universal
 joint with a 1/4" socket.  This device now extends back to about 2" aft
 of the instrument panel and can be ratcheted from either side of the
 center instrument panel vertical structure.  I considered drilling a
 1/4" hole in the panel just for this thing but decided I did not want to
 look that hole forever just waiting there for the gear to hang up.  It
 works pretty good just jamming it up into the corner while cranking. >>

Good idea David...........but be careful not to allow anything to get caught 
on the shaft as it rotates.
You can slip a plastic tube over the shaft and protect it from wires or 
anything else winding up on it.
Steve
 <A HREF="http://www.canard.com/noselift/">Wright Aircraft Works LLC: 
Electric Nose-Lift for EZEs
</A> 

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 10:49:10 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: COZY: Nose Lift

Nose lift adds 12 lbs. at location that affects C.G. and runway length big time.

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 16:44:02 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Fwd: COZY: Nose Lift

Strong asked <Uh, can you be more specific on the "big time"?>

Well with just myself in the front seat, (all other conditions the same) takeoff distance would be 600', adding my 130 lb. 
wife in the front seat the distance goes to 2000', an increase of 1400'. Rough numbers, the 12 lbs at a lever arm 70 from C.G. 
would be about the same effect as a 20 lbs in the front seat, or 1400' x 20lbs/130lbs = 200' more ground run. At the 7000' 
elev. I took off from Thursday, that would be 530 feet more runway required. Thats a lot for me, maybe a no go.

If someone would like to research the exact numbers of this example, be my guest, this was just as wife brought a pzza in the 
door.


Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 17:30:31 -0500
From: Michael Link <mglink@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fwd: COZY: Nose Lift



cdenk@ix.netcom.com wrote:

> Strong asked <Uh, can you be more specific on the "big time"?>

Carl,
 Sorry that I failed to metion that I did adjust the C.G.( by relocating a few things), when I installed the Noze-Lift. My current
C.G. is .1 inches AFT of the example listed in the Cozy manual. The plane is still 12 lbs. heaver, of course, but I am currently
doing something about that......reducing the pilot weight! I suspect that for many of us that is an area ripe for exploitation in
our quest for lighter and faster.

Regards,

Michael Link    COZY MK-IV    N-171-ML

From: SWrightFLY@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 19:53:17 EDT
Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Lift

In a message dated 8/16/99 5:32:50 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mglink@bellsouth.net writes:

<< C.G. is .1 inches AFT of the example listed in the Cozy manual. The plane 
is still 12 lbs. heaver, of course, but I am currently
 doing something about that......reducing the pilot weight! I suspect that 
for many of us that is an area ripe for exploitation in
 our quest for lighter and faster. >>

Hey Carl...........this is a great Idea for shorting the take off 
run......... you mentioned "Nose lift adds 12 lbs. at location that affects 
C.G. and runway length big time".........If you lost 20 pounds you could add 
a Nose Lift and still rotate sooner :-)..........and, for the record, it adds 
10 pounds not 12.
Steve
 <A HREF="http://www.canard.com/noselift/">Wright Aircraft Works LLC: 
Electric Nose-Lift for EZEs</A> 
 

Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 12:55:24 -0400
From: Bill Theeringer <Composite_Aircraft_Accessories@compuserve.com>
Subject: COZY: Nosegear Adjustment


Jim Nelson wrote:

<I would also stay away from the modified ratchet arrangement that is
used to much success by many EZ drivers.  (If your ratchet set up works
then
you're good to go but....).  There have been gear up landings because the
mechanism hangs up and the gear will not move.  There is a little plastic
piece in
there (Sears) that can break.  This is a tool designed for failure modes
that don't matter, but it matters when it fails in your airplane.>

The ratchet mechanism described above has not been manufactured or sold
since last summer.  A failure analysis was done to determine the cause of
the (2 reported to me) failures and this report was widely disseminated by
myself to the internet groups and via the Canard Pusher.

The new design, which was suggested by Mike Melvill, has ben completed and
is now available.  It is entirely metal and has the added advantage of
allowing the entire crank assembly and NG61 shaft to be removed through the
front panel.  I don't have a web site yet (in process), but can e mail a
picture to anyone interested.

Bill Theeringer
N29EZ

Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 22:23:00 -0400
From: Bill Theeringer <Composite_Aircraft_Accessories@compuserve.com>
Subject: COZY: Nosegear adjustment


Bill Kastenholtz wrote

<Bill,
    For those of us who installed the faulty ratchet; will there be some
compensation for buying the re-designed model?  Mine actually seems fine
working it in my garage, but will change it to preclude  even a small
possibility of failure in the future.>


Bill K;
I can appreciate your concerns on having the "old" ratchet design in your
plane.  If your ratchet is faulty I will of course replace it.  Keep in
mind that the "old" design is perfectly good to use if it passes the thumb
stress test.  The defective units, as outlined in my failure analysis
report, were made all at once on a particular weekend.  They were failing
because super glue was used instead of the normal locktite in the assembly
process.  The super glue attacked the poly carbonate and weakened it to the
point that in 2 instances the part just fractured and fell off without even
being touched.  I tested this failure mode to death during the
investigation.  ANY amount of super glue in the construction caused the
toggle to be so weak it broke with just slight finger pressure.  If only
locktite was used it could not be broken by hand.  Your thumb would become
very sore trying, but none would break.  I tried solvents, UV exposure,
extreme temperatures etc. and only the super glue resulted in weakening,
and then the reaction was severe.  The reaction sometimes took several days
to manifest itself, but it was very measurable and always resulted in
failure by thumb.  

The good news is the new design is easier to make so is therefore cheaper. 
E mail me for more information.

Bill Theeringer
N29EZ

Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 21:56:09 -0500
From: "L. Wayne Hicks" <lwhicks@erols.com>
Subject: COZY: Rudder Pedals

Can anyone tell me the amount in inches that the plans rudder pedals
travel for full rudder deflection prior to engaging the brake
cylinders?  (Travel being measured at the "nub" where your foot
goes...).  Is the travel the same or different when using the internal
rudder bellhorns?

Wayne Hicks
http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/2027

Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 09:20:54 -0500
From: "L. Wayne Hicks" <lwhicks@erols.com>
Subject: COZY: Nose Gear Doors

Mike Davis wrote:
I'm nearly done adding nose gear doors to my Cozy
> MkIV.  I really liked the nose gear
> doors that Verne Simon designed and published in the April '97 issue
> of the Central States Newsletter.  

-------> I did the same thing. I reoriented the window in the wheel
cover so I can see the wheel coming up.  See pictures on my Chapter 13
page:
http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/2027

Wayne Hicks

