Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 14:54 -0600 (CST)
From: Michael Pollock <Michael.Pollock@mci.com>
Subject: COZY: Cozy MKIV Camber Question?

Could one of the Cozy Builders on this forum tell me what you measured
for camber when you were setting the toe-in while the fuselage was
upside down (chapter 9)?  I am using the FeatherLite gear and currently
have around 8 degrees off vertical.  I believe this is too much, but
I have no reference.  The manual does not state a number and Nat was
not sure what it was when upside down.

   

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 16:21:32 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Cozy MKIV Camber Question?

Don't worry about it, until the plane is complete. There is an easy way to adjust it after complete. 
I'll try to describe the method of making tapered BID shims for the next CSA newsletter. Checking 
camber and toein should be part of periodic (annual) inspection.

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Cozy MKIV Camber Question?
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 19:42:04 -0600

Builders,
Eight degrees may be the right angle. I never measured it because this
question never came up before. If anyone has pictures of their airplane
upside down, they could measure it from the picture.
Nat

----------
> From: Michael Pollock <Michael.Pollock@mci.com>
> To: Cozy_Builders <cozy_builders@canard.com>
> Subject: COZY: Cozy MKIV Camber Question?
> Date: Monday, January 04, 1999 2:00 PM
> 
> Could one of the Cozy Builders on this forum tell me what you measured
> for camber when you were setting the toe-in while the fuselage was
> upside down (chapter 9)?  I am using the FeatherLite gear and currently
> have around 8 degrees off vertical.  I believe this is too much, but
> I have no reference.  The manual does not state a number and Nat was
> not sure what it was when upside down.
> 
>    

Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 18:20:58 -0500
From: "L. Wayne Hicks" <lwhicks@erols.com>
Subject: COZY: Chptr 9 Landing Brake Question

I'm now ready to glass 3-BID over the landing brake and flox the hinge
to LB-23, ensuring that the hinge is firmly against LB-23.  

Fine. 

(1) How do you do that?... How do you press the hinge into the flox and
LB-23 without the hinge moving?  

(2) Do you attach something between the hinge and L-19 to "preset" and
hold the hinge at the proper angle while pressing everything together?  

To me, it looks like a blind fit requiring a leap of faith.
Anyone have a good technique for doing this step?

Wayne Hicks
Cozy IV #678
Chapter 9

From: Don Bowen <DonBow@symix.com>
Subject: COZY: RE:  Chpt 9 Landing Brake Question
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 17:15:14 -0700 

Wayne Hicks wrote:

I'm now ready to glass 3-BID over the landing brake and flox the hinge
to LB-23, ensuring that the hinge is firmly against LB-23.  
To me, it looks like a blind fit requiring a leap of faith.
Anyone have a good technique for doing this step?

Here's my two cents worth:

I finished this section of chapter 9 last week.  I studied the plans
over and over but could not figure a good way to make sure the hinge
stayed in place when pressed onto the LB-23.  I knew this was something
I didn't want to get screwed up.

Here's what I did:

Prior to the 3-ply glass layup I pilot drilled (#40) the four aluminum
slugs and the corresponding locations on the hinge.  Then I drilled and
tapped the (10-32 threads) four aluminum slugs.  Using a black fine
point felt pen I marked the locations of the four holes (horizontal and
vertical) so they could be located underneath the 3 ply layup (this is
important, make the marks large enough to be seen through the glass).
Then I stuffed small wads of Kleenex tissue into the holes, followed by
a small amount of candle wax to prevent the epoxy from entering into the
holes.  Do the layups per plans.  After cure, carefully drill through
the glass at the four locations and dig out the wax and tissue (tweezers
work good for this).  Now you can check the fit of the hinge and drill
the holes out (the ones in the hinge) to final size (#10).  You may have
to trim down the hinge, as the three plys of glass may have taken up
some of the room.  I had to round off the corners and trim approximately
one tenth of an inch off the bottom of the hinge.  Your results may
vary.  With the 1 x 2 boards in place (per plans) you are ready to flox
the hinge into position.  When all looks good, put the four AN525 screws
through the hinge and into the threaded aluminum slugs and snug them
down.  When the flox cures you will be certain that the hinge did not
move during the curing process.

Good luck with your project!

Don Bowen
Cozy Mk IV s/n 440
Chapters 9 and 14
donbow@symix.com




Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 08:27 -0600 (CST)
From: Michael Pollock <Michael.Pollock@mci.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: RE:  Chpt 9 Landing Brake Question

Wayne Hicks wrote:

>I'm now ready to glass 3-BID over the landing brake and flox the hinge
>to LB-23, ensuring that the hinge is firmly against LB-23.  
>To me, it looks like a blind fit requiring a leap of faith.
>Anyone have a good technique for doing this step?

I used one or two wood stirring sticks covered with tape and pressed
them into the void in front of the hinge to keep the hinge pressed
against LB-23.  Just remember to keep the landing brake centered into
the hole that it came out of.

Michael.Pollock@mci.com
Flying Velocity N173DT
Building Cozy MKIV #643


 

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 18:12:05 +0000
From: Paul Kuntz <paul.kuntz@virgin.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Chptr 9 Landing Brake Question

L. Wayne Hicks wrote:
> 
> I'm now ready to glass 3-BID over the landing brake and flox the hinge
> to LB-23, ensuring that the hinge is firmly against LB-23.
> 
I simply put a few pieces of foam rubber between the hinge and the
landing brake to ensure that the hinge would have some pressure against
LB-23 while the flox sets up.  Then I floxed the mating surfaces and put
the landing brake into position (held flush with the fuselage bottom by
the two boards you bondo'd in place earlier).  After the flox set up, I
lifted the brake, drilled and tapped the holes and bolted it in place. 
Everything came out fine.

Paul Kuntz
Cozy MkIV
England

From: sdbish@juno.com
Subject: COZY: Cozy MKIV Camber Question?
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 17:09:34 EST

Measuring from a picture,   could be misleading due to distortion in the
picture,  or depending upon what perspective or angle the picture was
taken from..
Marv Bishop

Builders,
Eight degrees may be the right angle. I never measured it because this
question never came up before. If anyone has pictures of their airplane
upside down, they could measure it from the picture.
Nat
--------
> From: Michael Pollock <Michael.Pollock@mci.com>
> To: Cozy_Builders <cozy_builders@canard.com>

> Could one of the Cozy Builders on this forum tell me what you measured
> for camber when you were setting the toe-in while the fuselage was
> upside down (chapter 9)?  I am using the FeatherLite gear and currently
> have around 8 degrees off vertical.  I believe this is too much, but
> I have no reference.  The manual does not state a number and Nat was
> not sure what it was when upside down.

___________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 09:18:08 -0500
From: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: Matco Brakes instalation

I've decided on the Matco 3-puck heavy duty brakes, and it's time to carve
the gear strut-ends to accommodate them.

Before I start cutting, has anyone done it? What shape did you choose for
the end of the gear legs? How did you overcome having a bolt end up close
to the end of the leg?

Thx
Neil C 

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 13:03:34 -0500
From: Bulent Aliev <atlasyts@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Matco Brakes instalation

Hi Neil, I installed my 3 puck Matco brakes without cutting anything. Just
made 1" aluminum spacer under the axel mounting plate and the calipers are
almosr horisontal at the top. This way the gear leg is not exposed to the
heat radiation from the disk.


Neil Clayton wrote:

> I've decided on the Matco 3-puck heavy duty brakes, and it's time to carve
> the gear strut-ends to accommodate them.
>
> Before I start cutting, has anyone done it? What shape did you choose for
> the end of the gear legs? How did you overcome having a bolt end up close
> to the end of the leg?
>
> Thx
> Neil C


From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 12:29:26 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Matco Brakes instalation

Bulent wrote <1" spacer under axles>
This increases the lever arm on the strut, incrasing the bending and torsion stresses and reducing 
the factor of safety. How much, I don't know, but a consideration.

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 11:29:26 -0800
From: "LCDR James D. Newman" <infaero@flash.net>
Subject: COZY: Re:  Matco Brakes instalation

Hi Bulent, Carl and All,

> Bulent wrote:
> Hi Neil, I installed my 3 puck Matco brakes without cutting anything. Just made 1" aluminum spacer
under the axle mounting plate and the calipers are almost horizontal at the top. This way the gear
leg is not exposed to the heat radiation from the disk.

> Carl Denk wrote:
> Bulent wrote <1" spacer under axles>
> This increases the lever arm on the strut, increasing the bending and torsion stresses and
reducing the factor of safety. How much, I don't know, but a consideration.

    Bulent, Carl's right.  You shouldn't do this.  Besides, it makes for a wider draggy wheel pant.
    The Matco's dissipate heat much better so shouldn't be as much of a concern, particularly if you
still do the typical Fiberfrax wrap around the strut and under the axle.  You may need to round the
bottom of the strut a little to fit the brake housing, but you won't need to cut out the side of the
strut like with the Cleveland's.


Infinity's Forever,

    JD

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 14:12:22 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Re:  Matco Brakes instalation

JD wrote <fiberax gear leg>
Yes, I used RTV to hold it in place, and then protected it with heavy duty kitchen aluminum foil, 
also held and sealed with RTV beads. I have 1/8" aluminum heat shields between the axle and strut. 
They are about the diameter of the wheel, and cut out for my Cleveland brakes, with about an 1/8" 
clearance. I have made more than a few stops in 2000' at around 1800 lbs. gross with out feeling and 
excessive heat.

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:43:11 -0500
From: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: MATCO BRAKES

>BTW JD if you have a photo or a drawing of an installation I would like to
take a look at it


Me too, JD. I've played with dozens of cardboard profiles to shape the end
of the leg to accommodate the Matcos, but they all seem to dictate large
cut outs which would weaken the leg unacceptably. The problem is that the
puck body is very close to the axle centreline.

Bulent's 1" aluminum spacer seems to be the best solution so far since;
1) it leaves the leg intact (no cutouts at all),
2) distances the leg from the hot things, leaving lots of room for
insulation, and 
3) prevents having to drill axle holes near the very end of the leg.

The extra torque applied to the leg in heavy breaking is an issue. I'll do
some calcs on it. The wider boot sounds like it could be made acceptable by
maintaining the width/length ratio of the boot.

So...any pictures of a successful 3-puck Matco installation would be very
welcome.
(I'll copy this to Chris Copeland at Matco. They've probably come across
this before and their inut would be welcome.) 
Thx
Neil C

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:47:16 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: MATCO BRAKES

Clayton said <Torque due to breaking> 
and hard landings. What kind of stress allowables do you use on the composite strut material when 
heated from braking (a series of touch and goes)? I don't know where the critical section will 
occur, but could be most anywhere, and from what combination of  forces. Don't think its a straight 
forward calculation 

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 00:01:46 -0500
From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" <marcz@ultranet.com>
Subject: Fwd: Re: COZY: MATCO BRAKES

Neil Clayton wrote:

>Me too, JD. I've played with dozens of cardboard profiles to shape the end
>of the leg to accommodate the Matcos, but they all seem to dictate large
>cut outs which would weaken the leg unacceptably.

How do you know it's unacceptable?

>...... The problem is that the
>puck body is very close to the axle centreline.

This is true.

>Bulent's 1" aluminum spacer seems to be the best solution so far since;

However, as Carl points out, it increases the stress on the leg tremendously.

>The extra torque applied to the leg in heavy breaking is an issue. I'll do
>some calcs on it.

Freudian slip there? :-).  I assume you meant "braking".

>So...any pictures of a successful 3-puck Matco installation would be very
>welcome.

Well, you can check out the pictures on my web pages at:

   http://cozy.canard.com/chapters/chap09_6.html

I've got pictures of my installation, as well as that of Marc and Nadine
Parmelee.  We both cut part of the strut away - Marc/Nadine less than I
did.  Neither of us are flying yet so how successful these installations
are is yet to be seen.....

--
Marc J. Zeitlin           marcz@ultranet.com
                          http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:53:31 -0500
From: Bulent Aliev <atlasyts@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: COZY: MATCO BRAKES

Hi Mark ,
I did take look at your installation and per my measurements, the cut
out takes away about 25% of the chord on the gear leg out. That area I
think is under greatest load from the axle.
2)    Even with proper heat shield, there is some heating and weakening
of the area from the close proximity of the disk.
3)    I would like to hear someone to comment on the
advantage/disadvantage of the calipers installed on the
bottom  close to the ground?? I just don't know.

On my installation with the 1" spacer I only wary about the extra pull
force on the bottom mounting bolts?

I can still eliminate the spacer and rotate my calipers to the bottom
without cutting in to the leg, just don't like them too close to the
ground.

Hope that we will come up wit the best compromise one day :)
Regards
Bulent



Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:22:39 -0800
From: "LCDR James D. Newman" <infaero@flash.net>
Subject: COZY: Re: MATCO BRAKES

Hi Marc and All,

> Marc Zeitlin wrote:
> Neither of us are flying yet so how successful these installations are is yet to be seen.....

    There are many canards and other homebuilts flying with the Matco wheels, brakes and axles,
including Mike Melville.


Infinity's Forever,

    JD

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:30:47 -0800
From: "LCDR James D. Newman" <infaero@flash.net>
Subject: COZY: Re:  MATCO BRAKES

Hi Bulent and All,

> Bulent Aliev wrote:
> 3)    I would like to hear someone to comment on the advantage/disadvantage of the calipers
installed on the bottom  close to the ground?? I just don't know.

    One of the beauties of the Matco wheels and brakes is that the brake housing lives within the
wheel diameter, so mounting them down close to the ground is not an issue.


Infinity's Forever,

    JD

From: cozy623@juno.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 20:52:38 -0700
Subject: COZY: bump

On chap 9 page 1,  did you all shave the longeron doubler all the way
back to match LWX or just take the corner off so that the glass will lay
down?  Jeb

Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 12:30:02 -0500
From: Gary Dwinal <gdwinal@exploremaine.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: bump

Hi Jeb,
I just kind of rounded the corner off to make it look less boxy.  Of course
at that point of the project I had absolutely no idea who, what, where and
why that part was even there.  Building a second airplane similar to the
first would be much quicker and easier.
Gary Dwinal

cozy623@juno.com wrote:

> On chap 9 page 1,  did you all shave the longeron doubler all the way
> back to match LWX or just take the corner off so that the glass will lay
> down?  Jeb



Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 12:39:56 -0500
From: bil kleb <w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: COZY: bump

cozy623@juno.com wrote:
> 
> On chap 9 page 1,  did you all shave the longeron doubler all the way
> back to match LWX or just take the corner off so that the glass will lay
> down?

i just took the corner off:

  http://www.geocities.com/~kleb/homebuilt/ch08/ch08_09.jpg

-- 
bil <mailto:w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov>

From: JoeHeag@aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 23:03:00 EST
Subject: COZY: Re: Bump

Jeb, I know the trepidation you're going through.  I have the same desire to
build the absolute best.  Not for any awards mind you, but for personal
satisfaction.

I have a 90 degree die grinder fitted with a small disk sander and just ground
the doubler off enough to lay the glass without void.  Essentially, flattened
it out and blended it into the curve.

Someday, I'll have the speed built up and quality control securely in-hand.
As for now, the times quoted in the manual for certain tasks are severely
busted.

Joe Heagerty
Cozy MK IV, #393
Chapter 9
Riverside, CA

From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:01:24 -0600
Subject: Re: COZY: bump 

Jeb wrote:

>On chap 9 page 1,  did you all shave the longeron doubler all the way 
>back to match LWX or just take the corner off so that the glass will 
>lay down?


I rounded the corner of mine so the glass would lay down.

Larry


From: cozy623@juno.com
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 19:17:14 -0700
Subject: COZY: landing brake

I am confused because I moved my seat back an inch and I can't remember
whether I moved the landing brake back also.  The front of the brake has
a tab when it gets cut out.  Where is the hinge line?  If I measure the 2
1/4"  Back from the seatback it would put my hingeline behind the front
of the tab and nearer to what would be the front of the brake if the tab
wasn't there at all.  
	I guess I just don't have a clear picture of what the thing looks like
when it is done.  Jeb

From: cozy623@juno.com
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 21:20:06 -0700
Subject: Re: COZY: landing brake

Thanks, that is what I had figured from my high tech research of looking
at every Cozy picture I could find, but wasn't sure because of having my
seat further back.  Thanks again.  Jeb

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 07:41:51 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: landing brake

Jeb wrote <front seat back an inch>
I would leave the entire landing brake system (both the door and handle) in the same locations 
(fuselage stations). The door for aerodynamic reasons, and the handle to preserve the relationship 
to the trottle, and probably it sounds like you are tall and probably long armed, it will fit you. 
Just adjust the nylaflow tubing cable conduits for smooth curves, and if necessary route out the aft 
face of the front seat back for clearance.

From: cozy623@juno.com
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 17:07:10 -0700
Subject: Re: COZY: landing brake

The brake is moved back also per Nat.  I did that work a few months ago.
I am working on the stuff in chapter 9 now.  Jeb

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 11:34:20 -0500
From: Bill Theeringer <Composite_Aircraft_Accessories@compuserve.com>
Subject: COZY: ..seat back 1 inch

Jeb wrote <front seat back an inch>

If you use the electric actuator the 1 inch is moot.  As a mater of fact it
would occupy less space as the actuator would be close to parallel to the
seat back.  I haven't run the numbers but the actuator would be quite cheap
when you subtract the cost of the other items required for the mechanical
installation.  Your passengers already have less foot room.

Bill Theeringer
N29EZ

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 17:24:20 -0500
From: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: Brake heat at the Axle

<x-rich>Hi all...question regarding brake heat at the
<underline>axle</underline>;


Heat is generated from the disk/pad area and radiates/conducts outward
from there.


Anyone care to speculate what heat the axle_end_plate-to-gear_leg
junction will feel? Enough to soften a flox pad?


Thx

Neil C

</x-rich>
From ???@??? Fri Feb 19 21:42:44 1999
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 23:47:22 -0500
To: Cozy Builders Mailing List <cozy_builders@canard.com>
From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" <marcz@ultranet.com>
Subject: COZY: Brake heat at the Axle
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Neil Clayton asks;

>Heat is generated from the disk/pad area and radiates/conducts outward
from there. 

Yep.

>Anyone care to speculate what heat the axle_end_plate-to-gear_leg junction
will feel?
>Enough to soften a flox pad? 

Well, if you put in the aluminum heat shield, then no radiative heat will
get to the gear leg/axle joint at all.  (This is, of course, the reason for
the heat shield :-) ).  Since there are a gazillion EZ's flying, all with
this setup (heat shield or not, they all have axles bolted to the gear leg
on a flox pad) and none of them have failed at the flox pad (the heat may
soften the gear leg and cause it to fold up, but I've never seen a report
of the AXLE deforming the gear leg flox pad under it) I think it's safe to
assume that this one particular failure mode is extremely remote :-).

There are, however, an infinite number of failure modes, and if you sum the
probability of failure, no matter how small each one is, it's always more
than one :-).

--
Marc J. Zeitlin           marcz@ultranet.com
                          http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Brake heat at the Axle
Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 07:08:23 -0600

People,
I was talking to Scott Swing recently. He said their use of Matco wheels
and brakes was a carry over from Danny Meier, but they liked Clevelands. He
spoke of differences and mentioned a concern about brake heat being
conducted to the gear leg through the Matco axles. I didn't question him
about this. I don't know if there was something about the design, or if it
had to do with the amount of heat being generated. Maybe someone else
knows.
Regards,
Nat
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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 09:56:40 -0800
From: "LCDR James D. Newman" <infaero@flash.net>
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Hi All,

******************************************************
******************************************************

>> Marc Zeitlin wrote Feb. 18th:
>> Anyone care to speculate what heat the axle_end_plate-to-gear_leg junction will feel?  Enough to soften a flox pad?

******************************************************

> Nat Puffer wrote Feb. 19th:

>People,
>I was talking to Scott Swing recently. He said their use of Matco wheels and brakes was a carry over
>from Danny Meier, but they liked Clevelands. He spoke of differences and mentioned a concern about
>brake heat being conducted to the gear leg through the Matco axles. I didn't question him about
>this. I don't know if there was something about the design, or if it had to do with the amount of
>heat being generated. Maybe someone else knows.
>Regards,
>Nat

******************************************************
******************************************************

	Rather than paraphrase, I thought I'd just post Phil's entire informative post to me to the group. 
But the bottom line is that the axle WILL NOT propagate enough heat to soften the flox pad.
	Please, ALWAYS feel free to contact Matco or myself for factual answers to your questions.


Infinity's Forever,

	JD

******************************************************

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Axle heating
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 08:32:13 EST
From: WHEELS7951@aol.com
To: "LCDR James D. Newman" <infaero@flash.net>

JD Newman
Thanks for forwarding the email about the heating problem.  I suggest you call
Scott Swing at Velocity and ask him.  If Velocity was having such a critical
problem with Matco wheels, they certainly wouldn't order wheels from us month
after month for years.  You will find that Nat has the statement from Scott
180 degrees reversed.  All of the early mfg Velocity's used Cleveland Brakes
chosen by Danny. 

The test results we have done show that neither a Cleveland or a Matco brake
propagate enough heat through the axle to affect the fiber glass landing gear
IF the proper wheel and brake is used on any airplane.  It was the radiant
heat from the Cleveland brake disc that caused some problems with one of the
landing gears on the early production Velocity. The damage in this incidence
was in my opinion due to two factors. 
 
1.  Danny chose a Cleveland brake that had a brake disc that was too small to
absorb the Kinetic Energy generated by the Velocity upon landing and the brake
got too hot.  A Cleveland Brake with a .375" rotor instead of the .250" thick
rotor would not have achieved as high a temperature to radiate onto the
landing gear leg.  A disc on either a Cleveland or Matco brake will become
incandescent (glow cherry red) at about 800 degrees F.  If a steel or cast
iron brake disc has arrived at this temperature point it is usually no longer
effective at stopping the vehicle.  A "normal" landing temperature cycle of a
properly chosen brake disc on an airplane will arrive at 400 degrees F with
moderate braking action.

and

2.   The brake disc of the Cleveland Wheel was placed too close to the
composite landing gear (under .200" as I recall) and the heat caused the
materials to soften after the plane was parked.  This could have also been
resolved with different materials in the landing gear and a heat shield
wrapped around the landing gear. We do not know all the facts, but this may
also have been caused by someone doing high speed taxi tests over and over and
not a "normal" landing.  This causes a ratcheting up of the heat in the brake
beyond the design limit.  Contrary to popular belief among the kit plane
industry, a properly chosen brake for an airplane is not designed to
repetitively stop the horsepower generated by the engine.

The heat in my opinion could not have come through the axle although looking
at the bent landing gear one could arrive at that opinion.  Our tests over the
years have shown that the axle is one of the last elements to be effected by
the heat propagation of a brake.  There is only a tiny part of the wheel
touching the axle (rollers in the bearing) so most heat getting into the axle
is from radiant heat not conductive.  For the axle to get hot enough to melt
the composite landing gear, the rest of the wheel would have gotten so hot
that the brake would have been damaged.  The rubber on the tire and the brake
fluid would have gone first.

Cleveland makes an excellent product and it would work well on the Velocity if
the company (Velocity) had chosen the proper wheel and brake. 

Phil
Matco Manufacturing

From: "John Stricker" <jstricke@odsys.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Re:  Axle heating
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 17:16:00 -0600

On the subject of heat through the axle to the pads on the gear, perhaps a
little thinking through of the process might be in order.

First, the only way for the heat to get there would be conduction if it's
coming through the axle.  For the heat to be conducted through there, it
will have to go through the cups, rollers, and inner race of the bearing,
then to the axle.

Now if it follows that path, it will greatly overheat the grease in the
bearings and any seals as well.  Which do you suppose will melt first, the
flox or the grease?  The flox or the rubber seal?

Did the heat damage either the grease or the seal?  If not, how did it avoid
damage by conduction of the heat since it would have seen it first and only
the pad be damaged?

My suggestion is that the post by JD is dead on accurate.  If you've ever
worked on a hub/spindle that has had a failed bearing, you've smelled and
seen the results of overheated grease, and seen the remains of an overheated
seal.  If you didn't see that on the failures being discussed, the heat
almost by necessity came from radiation from the disk.

Just my opinion, based on seeing lot's of heat damaged parts.

John Stricker

jstricke@odsys.net

"I didn't spend all these years getting to the top of the food chain
just to become a vegetarian"



Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 17:48:12 -0500
From: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: Cleaning out brake line ducts

I went to install my Nyloseal hydraulic lines to the brakes, and found that
one side is tight/blocked(?). I suspect one of the 1/4" drinking straws has
become restricted/kinked.

Any ideas on "reaming" it out?? It's about a foot in from the bottom end.

Thx
Neil C

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 20:07:34 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Cleaning out brake line ducts

Check your residental/industrial electrical supply house for a flexible long (several feet) drill bit. Its used for getting 
phone, telephone, and burglar alarm wiring through walls. I think the size is about right. BUt be very careful, I probably 
would turn it by hand. 

Can you get anything through the conduit, even a thin wire? You might just have a glob of epoxy. Get a Mig welder wire. Have 
the welder stop so theres a small glob of formerly molten steel on the end as a guide. Or form a loop on the end and twist the 
end around tightly. Take a piece of stiff wire, flatten the end and sharpen like a drill bit, might even flatten an inch or 2 
from the end, the first part as a guide. With a heavy enough stiff wire, try pounding with a hammer. THis is just a bunch of 
brainstorming aloud. Food for thought. Work carefully, and slowly, likely it will get done. What happens when feeding from the 
other end? how close can you get to the stoppage from the first end.

From: DougSheph@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 21:40:21 EST
Subject: COZY: Cleaning out brake duct lines

>  I went to install my Nyloseal hydraulic lines to the brakes, and found that
> one side is tight/blocked(?). I suspect one of the 1/4" drinking straws has
> become restricted/kinked.

> Any ideas on "reaming" it out??

A trick I've used in the past to drill holes in a gently-curved path
(installing house wiring, for instance) might be helpful.  Take a piece of
fish tape (you know, that semi-stiff stuff you'll use to fish the wires
through the hole in the wall once you've made the hole?) and cut the end off
at an shallow (~70 degrees to edge) angle.  A few passes with a file will
create an fairly efficient but not too aggressive cutting edge.  You now have
a very long drill bit which will bend a considerable amount, yet still
transmit a fair amount of torque.  For this application, I would do it by hand
or maybe with a pair of vise grips, but you can just chuck it up in a
variable-speed drill and go slowly.  If it's not quite big enough to clear the
whole diameter, I would think you could peen the end flatter and wider for a
second pass, filing it to an exact fit.

Good luck!

Doug Shepherd (DougSheph@aol.com)

From: Fritzx2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 23:38:36 EST
Subject: Re: COZY: Cleaning out brake line ducts

Neil Clayton asked:

> I went to install my Nyloseal hydraulic lines to the brakes, and found that
>  one side is tight/blocked(?). I suspect one of the 1/4" drinking straws has
>  become restricted/kinked.
>  
>  Any ideas on "reaming" it out?? It's about a foot in from the bottom end.

When I installed my straws, I overlapped them in one direction with the
intent of inserting my hydraulic tubing in one direction.  It may be that
if you insert the tubing from the other direction you will be going with
the straw "step" transitions instead of against them which might
help.  This isn't what you asked but on the outside chance that it
hadn't occurred to you, maybe it will help.

John Fritz

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 11:54:39 -0500
From: Gary Dwinal <gdwinal@exploremaine.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Heat Shields

Hi Gregg,
   It would be best to do both.  The idea is to keep the heat from transferring
from the brake rotor to the gear leg.  Anything you can do to keep this from
happening is warranted.  The reason for only needing a fan shaped heat shield is
because the only susceptible area is right on top of the brake rotor where the
gear leg is close to the heat source.  Hopefully, this answers some of your
questions.
Gary Dwinal

gperry@usit.com wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
>      In the Cozy Mark IV plans it says to wrap the lower gear legs with
> aluminum tape and fiberfax.  No mention of aluminum pieces to protect the
> legs.  BUT...it seems most of the canards I've seen have a fan-shaped piece
> of aluminum mounted between the axle and leg.  So, what's the current
> thinking about this?
> I've had one person say to do both.  Also, if the aluminum is preferred, why
> the fan shape?  Since the brake disc is circular, I would think a circular
> shield would be more effective.  Any thoughts would be welcome...
>
>                                         Gregg



From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 13:39:51 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Heat Shields

On 03/13/99 10:49:47 you wrote:
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>     In the Cozy Mark IV plans it says to wrap the lower gear legs with
>aluminum tape and fiberfax.  No mention of aluminum pieces to protect the
>legs.  BUT...it seems most of the canards I've seen have a fan-shaped piece
>of aluminum mounted between the axle and leg.  So, what's the current
>thinking about this?
>I've had one person say to do both.  Also, if the aluminum is preferred, why
>the fan shape?  Since the brake disc is circular, I would think a circular
>shield would be more effective.  Any thoughts would be welcome...
>                
>                                        Gregg
>
>
>

I did both. THe Fiberax is held in place with beads of RTV and then protected with heavy duty 
kitchen type aluminum foil also held and sealed with RTV.

From: cozy623@juno.com
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 18:25:59 -0700
Subject: COZY: Landing brake 

Sorry, I don't have internet to check archives.  How did you all make
sure that your hinge stayed tight against LB23 when you installed the
whole mess with flox.  Open up the brake, push it tight, shut it all up
and pray or what?  Jeb
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:26:06 -0500
From: bil kleb <w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake

cozy623@juno.com wrote:
> 
> Sorry, I don't have internet to check archives.

you don't need web-access to check the archives.  you can use majordomo
do retreive them via email.  instructions are in the mailing list charter.
(that you printed and hung next to your computer, right?)  basically: send
email to majordomo@canard.com with

get cozy_builders topics95/chap_09.txt
get cozy_builders topics96/chap_09.txt
get cozy_builders topics97/chap_09.txt
get cozy_builders topics98/chap_09.txt
get cozy_builders topics/chap_09.txt
end

in the body of the message (subject line doesn't matter).

-- 
bil <mailto:w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov>

From: Fritzx2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:40:39 EST
Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake

Jeb asked:

>How did you all make sure that your hinge stayed tight against 
>LB23 when you installed the whole mess with flox.

I didn't use flox.  With the landing brake closed and the boards
bondo'd to the outside holding it flush with the fuse bottom,
I placed dabs of hot glue on the hinge half that gets bolted to the
fuse bottom.  Then, I opened the air brake enough to 
hot glue the bottom edge of the fixed part of the hinge against
the glass over the plywood insert.  Finally, with the door clearances
checked and everything square, I drilled the hinge holes.  It
made me nervous committing to floxing the brake in place
which is pretty permanent without being able to first open the 
brake in that configuration.  Since my wood insert that the hinge
mounts against is perfectly flat, I saw no reason to use the
flox since the loads are carried by the bolts anyway.  I would
imagine that those that have done it the flox way have probably
popped  the air brake loose later at some time so that they could
more easily do the filling and painting process.  Of course, when
all was done, I removed the temporary jigging hot glue.

John Fritz

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 18:13:33 -0500
From: "L. Wayne Hicks" <lwhicks@erols.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake

> 
> Jeb asked:
> 
> >How did you all make sure that your hinge stayed tight against
> >LB23 when you installed the whole mess with flox.
> 
> John Fritz replies:

>I didn't use flox.    It
> made me nervous committing to floxing the brake in place
> 

Wayne Hicks adds:

Nat may want choose to respond here, but I believe the use of flox here
is not to attach the hinge in place, but to make a perfectly-mated ,
load-bearing surface.  I worried too, but guess what, it's very easy to
pop the hinge loose from the flox.  This is the same thing you do when
mounting the canopy hinges to the upper longerons.

Wayne Hicks
Cozy IV #678
Chapter 11

Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 18:08:52 -0600
From: Tom Brusehaver <tgb@cozy.core.wamnet.com>
Subject: COZY: CH 9 true confessions


Well, I have fully qualified as an Oaf now also.  I built my tabs too
long, just like Marc.  I asked for and received assistance, from the
master, and am working my way throught apprenticeship. 

Thank you Marc.

The other Oaf like symptom, happened while laying up the tabs, and was
fully made obvious when trimming the tabs.  Somehow I hadn't noticed
while trimming the tabs the first time, (there wasn't much to trim
:-) that I had in-advertently left a layer of poly in the layup.  

I did like the instructions say, (I used poly instead of wax paper)
and did 5 layers at a time, and trim the edges with the poly. I musta
been distracted or something, and left the layer of poly in, while
laminating things.  It was the last 5 layers of UNI.

When I went to trim off the top of the tab, I found that the 1 inch
just fell apart! I took a minute, and looked, I could see the
other side had a split in it. Nothing bad, but just enough to be
noticable. There was the usual 5 minutes of denial, no I couldn't be
that stupid, maybe it was only on the one side, etc. I got a
screwdriver and put it in the split, and poped the rest off, one
nicely shaped layer of poly laying there.

All I could think to do was sand the tab that was left and re-do the
layup. I hadn't even considered sanding both parts and gluing 'em
together, I think what I did was right, although took more work.  

Ah well, live and learn.

Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 20:03:53 -0500
From: Bulent Aliev <atlasyts@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: CH 9 true confessions


I had the same experience to the letter with my landing gear tabs. So I
sanded both parts and glued them together with epoxy. It was not a good
feeling.
Bulent
From ???@??? Wed Mar 24 18:52:19 1999
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Message-ID: <36F91A15.73B8BEFF@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 11:00:17 -0600
From: David Domeier <david010@earthlink.net>
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To: Tom Brusehaver <tgb@cozy.core.wamnet.com>
CC: cozy_builders@canard.com
Subject: Re: COZY: CH 9 true confessions
References: <199903240008.SAA27532@cozy.core.wamnet.com.wamnet.com> <36F839E6.4034CB5F@bellsouth.net> <199903241425.IAA04892@cozy.core.wamnet.com.wamnet.com>
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Reply-To: David Domeier <david010@earthlink.net>
X-UIDL: eb9ba9f9747a6dd8fbdd8034b37de08d

Tom,

    re "Good thanks, I hate it when I do dumb things, I feel kinda all
alone."

    You're not alone.

    Years back, while building a LEZ, I went to OSH to look at
airplanes.  I had just completed attaching the lower winglets and
noticed everyone's lower winglets looked strange compared to mine.  At
first reflection I figured everyone but me had screwed up...but I
finally decided I had screwed up since Burt's airplane also looked
strange.

    After returning home I quietly, late at night when no one was
around,  took a hack saw and sawed the lower winglets off and moved the
left one to the right side and the right one to the left side.  Now my
airplane had that same strange look as everyone else's.

dd

From: Cozy7971@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 11:45:45 EST
Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake

In a message dated 99-03-22 18:18:34 EST, lwhicks@erols.com writes:

<< I worried too, but guess what, it's very easy to
 pop the hinge loose from the flox. >>

I second that.  I would suggest that you put some box sealing tape on the
hinge--it helps keep the pieces clean.  

Dick Finn
Cozy Mark IV #46

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 21:32:15 +0200
From: C van Hoof <cvh@iafrica.com>
Subject: COZY: Chapter 9 LG woes

Hi Folks,

No 219, in the workshop, needs some advice, looks like i can't work a
tapemeasure or any other tool for that matter.

My LG does not want to fit the bulkhead holes.

on checking found the following (don't know why not earlier)

the alignment of the studs thru' the LG tabs is out by 1/8" - opens out
forward.

What i can't understand is: the LG was positioned in the bulkheads, and
the holes were elongated to suit this arrangement - all fitted.

The Alum squares were positioned/floxed with the holes drilled after the
above.

there was no play on the LG sleeve to the stud and it got placed/floxed
in this position.

I overdrilled the S/S sleeves that go thru the Alum Squares but had
others machined to suit the larger diameter hole.

For the last few days NOTHING FITS. I'm sure that if i use a 5lb hammer
it'll go in, but it somehow should slide in firmly, without force, not
so?

DO I ?
remove the tabs and redo from there.

redo the alum squares.

the whole lot.

Did you guys battle just as much? or was it easy?

any advice - other than giving up :-)

thanks

Chris
#219 in south africa


Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 08:16:14 +0200
From: "Rego Burger" <BurgerR@telkom.co.za>
Subject: COZY: Chapter 9 LG woes

To Chris and others:
>>>My LG does not want to fit the bulkhead holes.
on checking found the following (don't know why not earlier) the
alignment of the studs thru' the LG tabs is out by 1/8" - opens out
forward.<<<

The ideal is to have the two studs parrallel but even if they are not
fitting is a matter of lining the tubes in the tabs with the bushes in
the hardpoints on the fuselage ...this is your primary goal. It will be
far easier to move one or two bush points in the bulkhead than to cut
the tabs and move the tubes on the gear.
Start by fitting one stud through then check to see which of the studs
on the other side must move. If you have floxed them in a 150 watt
soldering iron can be used to heat them up to soften the epoxy at tap
them out with a undersized socket. Once the bushes are out mount the
gear on the remaining stud again and check the alignment visually. You
can then decide how you are going to refit the bushes.
You can remake the square 2024 pads that carry the crush loading if the
alignment is out by more than 1/16". Keep the 4 AN4 bolt holes the same
but ofset the bushing hole to assist a good mate.

Just keep it simple. Work on one side instead of try to do both.


Rego Burger
RSA
Chris phone me for a longer chat.

From: "Nat Puffer" <cozy@extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Ch 9 : Main strut shape
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:15:43 -0500

John,
The landing gear struts are post cured out of the mold and can change shape
slightly. I believe mine were a little out also. Compensate when making the
tabs. You can do this by removing a little of the material on the side that
touches first, until both sides touch equally. There is also a little
leeway in locating the axles on the end of the strut. And if worst comes to
worst, and the wheels are not both at the same fuselage station, then your
airplane will be more like Burt's boomerang.
Nat

----------
> From: John Slade <rjslade@bellsouth.net>
> To: Cozy Builders <cozy_builders@canard.com>
> Subject: COZY: Ch 9 : Main strut shape
> Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 10:06 AM
> 
> Builders who've done chapter 9 - I have a problem.
> When I lean my strut against the verticle (double checked) flat (double
> checked) plywood per plans the strut touches on one side, but is about
3/16
> away on the other. The floor is level (double checked), and the legs are
> parallel (double checked) to the board. The strut is the same width at
the
> touch point. I seem to be faced with a 3 possibilities.
> 1. Let the legs be 3/16 out of alignment
> 2. Compensate when making the tabs
> 3. send the strut back after working on it for two days
> 
> I really dont like the sound of choice 3.
> 
> Any suggestions would be appreciated. In the meantime I'm going to
> disassemble my "box" and check everything again.
> Regards,
> John Slade, Cozy #757
> 
> 

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: Michael Pollock <Michael.Pollock@wcom.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Ch 9 : Main strut shape

John Slade wrote:

>Builders who've done chapter 9 - I have a problem.
>When I lean my strut against the verticle (double checked) flat (double
>checked) plywood per plans the strut touches on one side, but is about 3/16
>away on the other.


My Featherlite strut was also off by 1/4 inch.  I did not worry because
I compensated on both the tab hole location and the location of the
axle to place the wheels in the correct locations.  You will not notice
any problem in tracking as long as your toe-in is correct.

Michael.Pollock@mci.com
Flying Velocity N173DT
Building Cozy MKIV #643

 

From: "John Slade" <rjslade@bellsouth.net>
Subject: COZY: Ch 9 main strut shape 
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 12:06:05 -0400

Please ignore my last message.

Its not the strut that's twisted, it's my brain - and the "straight edge" I
have now cut into very tiny pieces. Perhaps the heat & humidity is getting
to both me and my tools.

John Slade



Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:22:59 -0400
From: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: Tool accuracy

John Slade wrote;
>Its not the strut that's twisted, it's my brain - and the "straight edge" I
>have now cut into very tiny pieces. Perhaps the heat & humidity is getting
>to both me and my tools.

I had a similar problem with "Home Depot" straight edges. The inch markings
between the three straight edges I own are all over the place. I only
realised it when I found FS 0 had about 1/8" error from the F22 datum face.
Now I just use them as straight edges, not measuring devices.
Neil C

From: "John Slade" <rjslade@bellsouth.net>
Subject: COZY: Ch 9, main strut - stupid human tricks
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 10:16:54 -0400

Yesterday I had a minor accident with my main strut. I doubt that many
builders will repeat my stupid trick, but I thought I'd post this, just in
case....

My strut was and box was upside down on the bench.  I needed to put it back
on the floor right side up. I picked up the box with my fingers between the
spacers intending to rotate it gently and lower it to the floor. Physics
took over. The weight and moment of the legs makes the strut want to rotate
QUICKLY.  As soon as I started the rotation physics over, the strut rotated
out of control over my head and the knuckles of two fingers on my right hand
found themselves at an angle rapidly exceeding 270 degrees.

I dropped the strut and just managed to extract my fingers before breaking
them. Got a pretty nasty strain, though. I wont be sanding anything (or even
typing) with those two fingers for a week or two.

Another small step in the great learning experience!

Thanks to those who responded concerning my main strut shape. The problem
was resolved when I triple checked everything. I had thought it was going to
be a good day.
John Slade
Cozy MkIV #757


From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 16:23:43 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Cleveland spacer

On 05/21/99 07:48:56 you wrote:
>
>Hi all,
>
>I'm in trouble with a small problem.
>Could any one give me the part number of AIRCRAFT SPRUCE for the 1/4"
>cleveland spacer needed for heavy duty breakes. Wicks one is P/N A484, but i
>want to try ASS for a time at least. . I can't find it on the on line
>catalog.
>
>Thanks for your help
>
>
>
>
>
>

for 5.00x5 axles with Cleveland 199-152 heavy duty discs, 7/16" wide spacer, p/n 11716-2. one per axle required @ $4.20 ea.
Still need one per axle p/n 11716 @ $3.50 ea.

From: FLYCOZY@aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 22:03:35 EDT
Subject: Re: COZY: Cleveland spacer

Hi all,

With respect to the breaks... and i know that this has been a widely 
discussed topic.

I am a firm believer in the 6' wheels and break kit from Wicks or Aircraft 
Spruce... it
is not only $100 cheaper than the 5' wheels and breaks, but offers 3 times 
the stopping power vs. the 5' inchers.  After flying numerous Cozy Mark IV's, 
it is my opinion and only my opinion that the heavy duty breaks and the 6' 
inch wheels are the best choice for both economics and "ground handling".  
Currently i am building a Mark IV,,,, if you choose to install the 6 
inchers... the inside of the strut diminsion (when laying on the table) 
should be 91 inches.  And then use the 1.5 x 600 x 6 tires.  I use velocity's 
wheel pants ($150).

just my $.02

Dennis

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 04:57:37 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Cleveland spacer

Was said 6" brakes preferred to 5"
Whats the weight difference, and does the larger size have a speed and takeoff length penalty? If the axle holes are the same, 
it would be nice if someone could flight test both and tell us the results. Possibly one could lend a set of brakes of the 
other type before they are flying for a few days.

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 12:18:09 -0700
From: "LCDR James D. Newman" <infaero@flash.net>
Subject: COZY: Re: Cleveland spacer

Hi All,

> > Was said 6" brakes preferred to 5"
> Whats the weight difference, and does the larger size have a speed and takeoff length penalty?

    This was discussed in great length Nov. 06, 1997, and somewhat before and after this date - see
archive's.

> If the axle holes are the same, it would be nice if someone could flight test both and tell us the results. Possibly one could
> lend a set of brakes of the other type before they are flying for a few days.

    Unfortunately, the bolt hole patterns are not the same.  But you might be able to fit and drill
an extra set of bolt holes just to try this :-( .  Then fix (flox & glass) the holes later :-( .


Infinity's Forever,

        JD

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 09:22:11 -0500
From: David Domeier <david010@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: Hot brake insulation...


    I am using a product from ACS that works very well in shielding the
main gear strut from a hot brake disk.  Two days ago I shot 3 full stop
landings in 20 minutes with fairly hard braking and managed to warm up
the disks to where a shot of cleaning fluid (mostly water) turned to
steam instantly as I was removing dead bugs from the airplane.

    The material is 3M Sound and Vibration Dampening Tape.  (part
#09-30200, page 298, 98-99' catalogue).  I cut a strip about the width
of the disk and taped it to the strut just abeam the brake system and
also secured with one high temp black tie wrap.  The strut was shielded
completely from the disk heat.  I also use this stuff abeam the exhaust
stacks on the inside of the cowling.  The outside cowling is cool to
touch with a very hot pipe inside.

dd

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 16:50:54 +0200
From: C van Hoof <cvh@iafrica.com>
Subject: COZY: Chapter 09 Landing gear

Hio Group,

Having just finished aligning the LG studs and bushes, i'm now ready to
flox this lot into place. in the LG bulkheads.

Since I had to do some adjusting, i'm left with some play - On one bush
this is as much as 1mm (just under 1/16")
can i just flox this in or is there some more drastic remedy to cure
this gap?

I thought maybe a structural adhesive (with flox) could do a better job?
(thinking: to use this ipo the epoxy laminating resin)

Any thoughts or opinions, will be appreciated

Chris
Cozy Mk IV 219 - nearly out of chapter nine


From: "Nat Puffer" <natp@cozyaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 06:15:26 -0000

Builders,
If you use the landing brake as it was intended (to increase the drag on
final to allow a steeper angle of descent), you will not have any problem.
It should not be deployed for takeoff, and is not intended to be used to
let down 40 miles away from an airport. A long EZ builder with an electric
actuator a couple of years back used it to let down through clouds. He blew
a fuse, couldn't retract it, and burned his engine up trying to get back to
the airport. A good example of what happens when you violate the intent of
a design. Follow the plans, use the airplane as intended, and you will have
an excellent, safe, high-performance airplane.
Regards,
Nat

----------
> From: Todd Carrico <todd.carrico@aris.com>
> To: cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject: RE: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling
airflow
> Date: Friday, July 23, 1999 12:46 PM
> 
> My understanding of the NACA duct is that boundary layer control is
> important to getting it to work properly.  That big brake hanging out
there
> would not do much for keeping the boundary layer in good shape for the
duct
> entry.  Any improvement would be desirable, the question is how much
> improvement can we expect?  Could we make things worse?
> 
> tc
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian & Susan DeFord [mailto:brian@deford.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 22, 1999 9:14 PM
> To: cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling
> airflow
> 
> 
> You aren't alone in thinking this would be a good idea. I've often
wondered
> the same thing and think it could help. I'm not sure how much cooling air
> needs to get through, but any amount is better than none. I'm considering
> playing with the idea after I get my plane flying so that I can compare
the
> plans built version against any variation.
> 
> Brian DeFord
> http://www.deford.com/cozy
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dana Hill <dhill36@juno.com>
> To: <cozy_builders@canard.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 22, 1999 6:24 PM
> Subject: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow
> 
> 
> > Just had a stray idea and wondered if anyone else has given it any
> > thought;  would it be a reasonable, workable modification to cut out a
> > semicircular or rectangular section from the center hinge side of the
> > landing brake(LB) to allow for some improvement in the airflow into the
> > NACA duct/cowling when the LB is deployed?  Was just thinking about
that
> > old well discussed issue of what happens when your elec. accuator fails
> > at the worst possible time.
> > D. Hill
> > CZ #676
> > Ch 6
> >
> >

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 21:00:49 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow

A good reason to stick with the manual lever. Another is, it should retract if there is excessive speed.

From: Fritzx2@aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 10:12:03 EDT
Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow

>Was just thinking about that old well discussed issue of what happens when 
>your elec. accuator fails at the worst possible time.
>D. Hill

I have an electric brake actuctuator.  I am planning on rigging a cable
that will pull a safety pin that will disconnect the air brake actuator
from the back of the seat mount and then further pulling on the cable
will pull the actuator and air brake up if the the air brake fails down
because of an actuator failure or power failure.  The cable will have
a handle in the front seat with a hook to hold the cable so that I 
don't have to continue holding it up which could distract me from
flying the plane.  The air loads will help close the air brake so that
shouldn't be a problem. I know this is additional complexity and there
are those that will say why not just make it by the plans but
a fair number of people have gone the electric actuator route
and I think this is a slight improvement towards that end. Be carefull
to make sure all parts that come apart are retained inside the
fuselage so that no parts fall through the fuse bottom opening
and head towards the big fan or the big fan air intake (carb or TBI).
Haven't flown this system or tried it yet, but that's my plan.

John Fritz
fritzx2@aol.com

Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 14:02:37 -0500
From: David Domeier <david010@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow

Todd,

    re " Any improvement would be desirable, the question is how much
improvement can we expect?  Could we make things worse?"

    There's no way we can have a speed brake on the bottom of this
airplane and not screw up the air flow into the engine.  It's only
purpose is permit a steeper approach angle in lieu of flaps and/or
quickly lose a bit of airspeed just before touch down.  Never, never,
plan on using it any other time because the engine will get cooked if
the brake can not be retracted even at idle power.  With any head wind
at all, you will not need to use for landing.

    I wouldn't waste any time trying to redesign the board.  It serves
it's purpose as is and unless you're thinking of relocating it, press on
and get air borne sooner than later.

dd

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 17:28:37 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow

Fritzx said <a cable that will pull a safety pin>

Better plan on high loads on that pin to move it. Just thinking what it takes to hold your hand out in the air at highway 
speeds, plus the leverage to the short arm where the actuator is mounted. It wouldn't surprise me that the shear on the bolt 
is of magnitude several hundred pounds, then with a reasonable coefficient of friction of 0.3, the required force to pull the 
pin could be 60 lbs, and I might be off by 100% with this off the top of the head thinking.

P.S. no parts want to become loose, with the propeller aft. 

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 17:39:38 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow

was said <Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow>

I Like all the drag I can get with the brake deployed. Don't make smaller. Manual works just fine! I got over 700 hours on it. 
Last plane I flew with flaps had hydraulic power with a little lever on the panel. I don't come near to objecting to the 
lever.  And I don't worry about engine heat when, not if the electric should fail.

From: "John Slade" <rjslade@bellsouth.net>
Subject: COZY: Chap 9  Landing Brake actuator
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 21:04:03 -0400

Builders,
Don Bowen kindly sent me some nice pictures of his electric landing brake
installation. I've posted them at http://kgarden.com/cozy/donspics.htm
John Slade
Cozy MKIV #757
http://kgarden.com/cozy


From: ArleeB1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 17:27:21 EDT
Subject: COZY: Re:  gear beef-up ?

Hi Everybody:   I'm going to beef up my main landing gear on my long EZ and I 
thought I'd just add a couple plies of carbon graphite uni around the stock 
long EZ gear.  Any thoughts, Ideas, or suggestions on beefing up both the 
main and nose gear would be helpful.   Thanks,   Gary at Tahoe

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 20:31:36 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Re:  gear beef-up ?

On 08/04/99 17:27:21 you wrote:
>
>Hi Everybody:   I'm going to beef up my main landing gear on my long EZ and I 
>thought I'd just add a couple plies of carbon graphite uni around the stock 
>long EZ gear.  Any thoughts, Ideas, or suggestions on beefing up both the 
>main and nose gear would be helpful.   Thanks,   Gary at Tahoe
>

I'd question the use of graphite. The glass and graphite reach their breaking strain (elongation or stretch per inch) at 
significantly different points. If I have it right, the graphite will require much more strain to reach it's allowable maximum 
stress (load per unit area). Then to use the graphite will not be stressed to its maximum, and the fiberglass could be at its 
breaking point anyway. The two materials will experience essentially the same strain since they will be adjacent to each other 
at the interface, and the thin layer thickness of the graphite will not significantly get more strain in bending. If it was 
mine I would stick to like materials, and then consider the direction of loading and the crossection. Most (and I don't 
know various peoples expertice) people unless trained in structural engineering, and either doing an analysis or have full 
scale test specimens available are not competent to make meaningful changes. Unless there is a specific situation, many longs 
are flying with no problems. If the aircraft is flying, its likely that the weak point may be buried inside the fuselage and 
would require removing the mounting tabs to reinforce in a functional way.  

From: Lee810@aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 02:51:15 EDT
Subject: Re: COZY: Re:  gear beef-up ?

In a message dated 8/4/99 7:34:10 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
cdenk@ix.netcom.com writes:

> I'd question the use of graphite. The glass and graphite reach their 
breaking 
> strain (elongation or stretch per inch) at 
>  significantly different points. 

Even more important than the differences in tensile strengths are the moduli 
of elasticity of the materials.  When moduli are significantly different for 
the two materials, the stiffer of the two will essentially carry the entire 
load, much like a foam/glass sandwich.  Since graphite is much stiffer than 
glass, the graphite will carry the majority of the load until it fractures 
and you'll be left with the glass carrying the load again.  In this 
application, the fiberglass behaves like a heavy core material.  

You would probably be better off just adding more plies of fiberglass.  The 
bending stiffness of the gear will increase in proportion to the cube of the 
overall gear thickness so adding a little goes a long way.

Lee Devlin
Greeley, CO 

From: "Nat Puffer" <natp@cozyaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: COZY: Re:  gear beef-up ?
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 06:47:09 -0000

Builders,
Adding carbon is a mistake. It is too stiff for a landing gear and won't
share the load with glass. The Long EZ gear is plenty strong for the Long
EZ. The 4-place gear is half way between the Long EZ and Defiant, which had
a 3400 lb gross. Build according to plans and stop imagining imaginary
problems.
Nat

----------
> From: ArleeB1@aol.com
> To: UgoliniNJ@efdsouth.navfac.navy.mil;
owner-canard-aviators@betaweb.com; canard-aviators@canard.com;
cozy_builders@canard.com
> Subject: COZY: Re:  gear beef-up ?
> Date: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 9:27 PM
> 
> Hi Everybody:   I'm going to beef up my main landing gear on my long EZ
and I 
> thought I'd just add a couple plies of carbon graphite uni around the
stock 
> long EZ gear.  Any thoughts, Ideas, or suggestions on beefing up both the

> main and nose gear would be helpful.   Thanks,   Gary at Tahoe

From: "chuck brantley" <headless22@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: COZY: landing gear wrap
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 19:41:48 -0500

Hello group,
                Just got back from Oshkosh, my first trip. It was great to
meet Nat and Shirley. The cozy dinner was very nice. It was fun to watch
Nat"s reaction to the twin cozy guys. They were by far the best act in the
room. I hope they made it back to south america alive! Thanks to those who
put the dinner togeether.

I checked the archives and could not find the info I needed about the first
4 layer uni gear wrap. I think I am supposed to wrap the uni around the
trailing edge of the gear which will leave a seem along the leading
edge.after cure I will sand the leading edge to expose the s glass and make
a smooth transition to the uni lay-up. How much of the leading edge do you
expose?
                                       Thanks in advance,
                                                                     Chuck
Brantley
                                                                     MKIV
plans #738
                                                                      Las
Vegas NV. 

Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 23:46:35 -0400
From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" <marcz@ultranet.com>
Subject: Fwd: COZY: landing gear wrap

chuck brantley writes;

>I checked the archives......

Yay!

>...... and could not find the info I needed about the first
>4 layer uni gear wrap......

Boo, hiss.  The owner of the FAQ will have to ensure that this point gets
into the Chap. 9 section :-).

>....... How much of the leading edge do you expose?

Not critical (generally, if something IS critical, the plans will say so.
If they don't, just use your judgement [or the judgement of those here :-)] ).

Just layup the UNI so that it comes close to meeting on the leading edge.
When you break the gear free from the nails, you'll have to trim and sand
the UNI wrap smooth so that the next wrap will lay flat.  Don't worry about
exactly how much S-glass is visible - just make a smooth transition near
the L.E.

--
Marc J. Zeitlin           mailto:marcz@ultranet.com
                          http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/

From: FLYCOZY@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 23:17:25 EDT
Subject: COZY: Re Dragging brakes/ Filling Reservoirs

Fellow builders
     The other day I was out doing one of my first taxi test with the new 
mark IV N 92VT.  I taxied at about 45 mph  down the runway to set the brake 
pads and then did a 180  turn on the runway and started taxing back to the 
hangar.  I noticed the left brake Cleveland 199/133 heavy duty with 6 in 
wheels did'nt feel quite right. I first thought   it's a crosswind on the 
runway and I have to brake slightly to keep  going down the runwaycenterline. 
 After a couple of hundred feet more and after I turned off the runway I knew 
I had a brake dragging. Then I remembered,   when I filled the brakes from 
the bottom.  I did'nt leave any room for exspanstion in the brake reservoirs. 
 I filled them all the way to the top and just put the caps on.
    What happened was when the brake disk got warm and expanded it could'nt 
push the caliper back.  I stopped as soon as I noticed that their was a 
problem removed the cover on the nose took the caps off the reservoirs to 
relieve the pressure and they worked perfect.  Then I removed a small amount 
of oil from the reservoir so they are only 2/3 full brake fluid and drilled a 
number 50 hole in the reservoir cap to vent it. I had been throught the same 
experience with my 3 place cozy I just had'nt done it yet to the Mark IV.  
There was no harm done. I just wanted to pass along the info to the guys that 
are using  the lay down master cylinders A 600  that I think they should be 
vented.  The very least don't full the reservoirs all the way to the top. 
   When I fill the brakes for the first time or any time I need to bleed them 
I use a rather large oil can the kind ya pump with your thumb  "you know like 
the one scarecrow used on the tin man in the WIZARD OF OZ" .  Round up a 
piece of clear tygon 1/8 in ID. tubing obout 6.ft long and fill the oil can 
with the good brake fluid.   It should look like cranberry juice. Pump slowly 
and you'll be able to see if their is any air in the hose cause it's clear ,  
remove the cap on the reservoir ,  open the fitting on the bottom of the 
caliper and attach the hose full of cranberry juice to the  bottom of the  
caliper pump till the reservoir is 2/3 full.  
  With the 6 in wheel and big brakes this plane handles like a dream ,  so 
much better than the brakes I  have on the 3 place Cozy.  It's like going 
from a Chevrolet to a Lexus. If you want to stop they will stop you!! NOW.  
My opinion is that the 5 in wheels and heavy duty brakes  called for in the 
plans are inadequate for stopping and stearing  a heavy loaded Mark IV at max 
gross wt of 2050 lbs.  And those who have the smaller wheels and brakes 
should change them to the larger ones. All the builders that have them really 
like them and were glad they put them on.  Koster, Merrill and I.  Just my 
opionion.
     

                                                                              
          Dennis Oelmann

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 17:56:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: Re Dragging brakes/ Filling Reservoirs

What brand and model of cylinders were those, my Clevelands have vent holes in the pipe plug fill point.

From: Wayne Hicks <whicks@zeltech.com>
Subject: COZY: landing gear wrap FAQ
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 10:56:02 -0400



-----Original Message-----
From: Marc J. Zeitlin [mailto:marcz@ultranet.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 1999 11:47 PM
To: Cozy Builders Mailing List
Subject: Fwd: COZY: landing gear wrap


-->chuck brantley writes:
>How much of the leading edge do you expose? I checked the archives and
could not find the info I needed about the first
>4 layer uni gear wrap.  

>marc zeitlin responds:
>Boo, hiss.  The owner of the FAQ will have to ensure that this point gets
>into the Chap. 9 section :-).  (it's) Not critical <snip>  Just layup the
UNI so that it comes close to meeting on the leading edge.

To which wayne hicks further responds:
Your wish is my command! bil kleb has already contacted me for the changes!
I agree with Marc, it's not critical, just get the edges close without
overlap.  Actually, an overlap is not critical either from a structural
standpoint, but try not to do that.  Else, you'll end up with the ugly bump
and you'll spend an hour or so sanding it back out.  The gear legs are
airfoils and you want a smooth, nice-looking leading edge.

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 17:20:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: COZY: landing gear wrap FAQ

Was said <Just layup the UNI so that it comes close to meeting on the leading edge.>

Not sure exactly whats happening, but, if these are UNI at a 45 degree, that seems to indicate to me that they are there to 
resist torsion (twisting) due to the wheel center not being in line with the strut center. With torsion the line of force 
(stresses) are maximum at corners, therefore the plys should continue around the corner, and lap the fiberglass adequately to 
develop the strength of the UNI per standard lapping practice (usually 1" overlap per ply). I would suggest that that lap be 
all one side of the point of maximum stress (the corner), and not the lap centered on the corner.


From: "Randel & Nancy Livingood" <doognivil@home.com>
Subject: RE: COZY: Landing gear wrap.
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 17:53:57 -0700

It's funny you should mention that.  When I did my lay-ups for the landing
gear I also thought they had to overlap and even tried a dry run at wrapping
the two strips of fiberglass like a helix to get them to overlap.  I guess I
really needed some fresh eyes and to read the directions over a few times
before I figured out that you drape the fiberglass over the landing gear
like you are folding it in half length wise.

For what it's worth,

Randel

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com
[mailto:owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com]On Behalf Of Nat Puffer
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 2:00 PM
To: Cozy_builders@canard.com
Subject: COZY: Landing gear wrap.


Builders,
I guess it is time for the designer to speak up. As is shown on Chapter 9,
page 2, Figure 8, the first wrap of 4 plies of UND does not go completely
around the leading edge, nor do the 4 plies overlap themselves. The
instructions and the figures should be self-explanatory. Just follow the
plans and everything will turn out just right.
Best regards,
Nat

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 14:31:23 -0700
From: "LCDR James D. Newman" <infaero@flash.net>
Subject: COZY: Re:  Dragging brakes/ Filling Reservoirs

Hi Dennis and All,

> Dennis Oelmann wrote:
> It should look like cranberry juice.  <snip>

    Just learned this recently from hydraulic experts:  to filter ALL hydraulic and transmission
fluids even though it's fresh out of the bottle.  There's contaminants in the brand new container
some times too.  Use a very fine paint strainer.

> <snip>  With the 6 in wheel and big brakes this plane handles like a dream , so
> much better than the brakes I have on the 3 place Cozy. It's like going
> from a Chevrolet to a Lexus. If you want to stop they will stop you!! NOW.
> My opinion is that the 5 in wheels and heavy duty brakes called for in the
> plans are inadequate for stopping and stearing a heavy loaded Mark IV at max
> gross wt of 2050 lbs. And those who have the smaller wheels and brakes
> should change them to the larger ones.  <snip>

    Very true!  This has been talked about quit a bit over the past few years (see the archives).
That's why most on the group that are building and at that stage already have the 5.00 x 5 MATCO
wheels and brakes.
    In a nut shell, for those who don't know, the well proven and documented 3 puck 5.00 x 5 MATCO
W51LT wheels and brakes are more than enough stopping force without adding extra cost, weight and
drag of buying the low profile 1500-6.00 x 6 wheels, brakes and tires.  In fact, the 3 puck 5.00 x 5
MATCO W51LT wheels and brakes have more stopping force than many models of 6.00 x 6 size wheels and
brakes.
    But if you want 6.00 x 6, MATCO has that size too (again a waist of extra bucks, weight and
drag), but the stopping force is no greater than the 5.00 x 5 size that MATCO has.


Infinity's Forever,

        JD

From: DasherIII@cs.com
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 15:06:15 EDT
Subject: COZY: (no subject)

I have a question about cutting out the landing brake from the 3/8inch foam.  
How do you start the cut with the saber saw without chewing up the foam and 
keeping the ~45 degree angle?

Will Dasher 
Cozy MkIV #0709
Memphis, TN

From: "Larry & Jenny Schuler" <lschuler@g2a.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake cutout
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 08:26:51 -0600


> I have a question about cutting out the landing brake from the 3/8inch
foam.
> How do you start the cut with the saber saw without chewing up the foam
and
> keeping the ~45 degree angle?


Start with a razor saw by hand, then switch to saber.

Larry



Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 21:02:33 -0600
From: David Domeier <david010@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: Tire Balance with "Equal"


    Oshkosh 98 had a forum on balancing tires with some liquid stuff I
had never heard of before or since.  I thought it was a great idea at
the time and had not forgotten about it but could not find my notes on
the forum or remember what it was called.  This week I finally got
around to making a few inquiries about it.  Local auto tire stores know
about it but do not sell it.  I found one truck tire store that sold a
similar product but it was a powder, not liquid.  I decided to try it
since in cost only $4.

    Here's a little of what the company says about it:

"Since its introduction in 1991, EQUAL has been installed in millions of
truck tires. And more than 3,000 commercial tire dealers, truckstops,
truck dealerships and alignment shops in North America offer EQUAL. A
comparative vibration study performed at the Transportation Research
Center (T.R.C.) test tracks in East Liberty, Ohio found EQUAL to reduce
vibration in truck tires 20 percent better than lead weight balancing."

    The product is a dry granular polymer formula.  It is supposed to be
installed with their installation tool which costs $325.  I opted to
figure out how to get it installed myself rather than buy the
installation tool.

    First problem was there is no stated amount to install in a 600X6
tire.  The smallest tire the dealer had listed is a 16" wheel which
requires 3 ounces.  (I've sent a e-mail to the company asking for info
on how much will work in the 600X6 tire.)  Meanwhile, I decided to wag
it.  With a postage scale, I measured 1 ounce of the stuff, which is
like very fine sand but lighter, and installed it with a new turkey
baster ($1.78) and some quarter inch plastic tubing.  It took a little
doing but I got it in without removing the wheel from the airplane.
Another problem with this stuff is it can get in the valve stem core and
cause a leak.  I had a slight leak on the right side after reinstalling
the core but stopped it with a metal cap and some plumbers tread seal.

    I was in the process of flight checking this material when the nose
gear mishap occurred.  Today I got back to that task.  I had some slight
vibration between 60-40 kts on deceleration before, today I had none.
It may just be wishful thinking, but it does seem to make for a smoother
running wheel.

    Has anyone else tried Equal or the liquid stuff?

dd




From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 08:08:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Tire Balance with "Equal"

Haven't tried any of the liquid stuff, but do balance mains and nose tires when mounting new ones. Use the stick on automotive 
weights. For the nose use a 5/16" rod, and 1.25" rod for the mains as axles. I clamp a pair of 1/8" thick angles, legs upward, 
to my bench top, cantilevering out into space. With a tire on the angles, I level the angle tops. Its important to take the 
splop out of the tapered bearings, I use some masking tape wraped around the rod (hope to make an axle with a better 
situation). Use automotive stick on "Mag" wheel weights available at your local tire dealer. Usually I have some scrap weights 
available that with masking tape I do a trial balance, and then cut the strip weight to the correct weight. Occasionaly I end 
up with 2 rows of weigh on the mains, remembering that when the weight covers more than 90 degrees of arc, the weight is not 
very effective. The extreme of this would be weights at 180 degrees would cancel each other. Note that the weight is added to 
the high point when the tire stops rolling.

Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 18:47:26 -0600
From: Michael Link <mglink@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Brake line issues



alwick@juno.com wrote:

> Well, looks like I blew it. I put drink straws in my main gear legs too
> small to accomodate both the stock 3/16" brake line and my sensor wires.
> I really liked the ideas kicked around about replacing the brake lines
> with 1/8" od alum tubing. Is anyone out there actually operating their
> plane with this modified line? Is 1/8" alum 5052 the correct material?
>

 HI,

Steve Wright  and I have been considering 1/8" stainless (probably 316) .
Although it weighs more it has superior strength, better heat resistance,
and is very ductile. If I use it I will be sure to include a small loop near
the caliper to allow for movement without inducing metal fatigue. I plan to
use metal lines only between the wheel cylinder and the landing gear
bulkhead. The reason that I am considering doing this is that I had a brake
overheat and damage the plastic brake line by heat CONDUCTION through the
brake cylinder (not radiated heat from the rotor).
What do you think?
 Regards,

Michael Link    COZY MK-IV    N-171-ML

Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 15:13:21 -0800
From: Marc Parmelee <Marcna@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: COZY: Brake line issues

You might want to consider -3 Teflon core with braided stainless steel brake
lines.  I got my from BSR Products (800)432-2798, they sell a 48" set of two
with female swivel both ends for about $35.  You just connect this line to
the plastic line in the hell hole, works great.  You won't find a safer way
of running you brake lines, unless you run the entire brake lines this way.

Marc Parmelee

If you are using the Matco plastic lines which are a little bigger than the
standard lines, use the Mc Donald's  soda straws, they work great.

alwick@juno.com wrote:

> Well, looks like I blew it. I put drink straws in my main gear legs too
> small to accomodate both the stock 3/16" brake line and my sensor wires.
> I really liked the ideas kicked around about replacing the brake lines
> with 1/8" od alum tubing. Is anyone out there actually operating their
> plane with this modified line? Is 1/8" alum 5052 the correct material?
>
> Also, what's a good way to bleed the brake lines? I got air in them when
> I flipped the plane to finish the bottom. I assume the ol' auto method
> won't work? You know, open lower brake outlet while pressing on pedal.
>
> I've got all my instruments installed, except can't find reasonable
> priced transponder. Anyone with ideas?
>
> Thanks a bunch.
>
> -al wick
> Canopy Latch System guy.
> Artificial intelligence in cockpit, powered by Subaru.
> Now wiring. Aug 2000 first flight scheduled
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> Why pay more to get Web access?
> Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
> Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.

From: Militch@aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 14:48:36 EST
Subject: Re:  COZY: Brake line issues


In a message dated 12/22/99 7:38:42 PM, alwick@juno.com wrote:

>Also, what's a good way to bleed the brake lines? I got air in them when
>I flipped the plane to finish the bottom. I assume the ol' auto method
>won't work? You know, open lower brake outlet while pressing on pedal.

Get a reverse bleeder from your local auto parts store or on-line parts 
store, and push the fluid uphill from the calipers.

Regards

From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 17:53:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: COZY: Brake line issues

I thought the 1/8" metal brake line material is stainless steel. I would be concerned with this small diameter tubing 
fatigueing and cracking.

Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 16:34:54 -0600
From: David Domeier <david010@earthlink.net>
Subject: COZY: Re: [c-a] Tire Balance with "Equal"

Stet,

    re "Any thoughts??"

    I've got about a dozen landings since installing an ounce of the
stuff in each main tire.  The vibration I used to feel during roll out
at 60-40 knots is now very smooth, but there is some "chatter" type
vibration down around 20 knots which may be the brakes.

    I think the stuff helps - it sure hasn't made it worse.  What's
weird is I never feel anything on take off, just after landing.

dd

From: alwick@juno.com
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 1999 07:13:34 -0800
Subject: Re: COZY: Brake line issues

On Wed, 22 Dec 1999 18:47:26 -0600 Michael Link <mglink@bellsouth.net>
writes:
> Steve Wright  and I have been considering 1/8" stainless (probably 316)
.

I think I'll go with the same material.
Sure appreciate all the off-line responses to my queries. I had totally
forgotten how effective bleeding brakes using oil can and plastic tube
is. 
Someone asked about technique to increase size of brake conduit. I'd
recommend taking small diam alum tube, or drill rod. Place small slot at
end. Insert sand paper in slot and roll it around tube till you get close
to conduit diam. Use drill motor to ream the conduit. I've used similar
method for other purposes. Haven't done it yet on cozy.

Once again, thanks for all the thoughtful responses. Merry xmas!

-al wick
Canopy Latch System guy.
Artificial intelligence in cockpit, powered by Subaru.
Now wiring. Aug 2000 first flight scheduled

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