Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 21:19:41 -0500 From: atlasyts@idt.net Subject: COZY: Canopy If anyone has the thicknes of the Plexiglas of the canopy for Cozy MK-IV please let me know. Thanks. Bulent Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 22:10:03 -0500 From: "Jeff S. Russell http://www.AeroCad.com" Subject: Re: COZY: Canopy atlasyts@idt.net wrote: > > If anyone has the thicknes of the Plexiglas of the canopy for Cozy MK-IV > please let me know. 3/16" -- Jeff Russell/AeroCad Inc. E-mail: Jeff@aerocad.com P.O. Box 7307 Port St. Lucie FL. 34985 Shop# 561-460-8020 Home# 561-343-7366 Composite workshop info: http://www.Sportair.com From: Epplin John A Subject: COZY: Windows Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:51:03 -0600 I am in process of installing the windows in the turtleback. Does anyone have a good method of holding the window in contact with the outer skin? I would think this would be the ideal condition. I have made a small aluminum angle that I attached with clecos to hold the long edge in contact but have several places where I cannot seem to get it to lay tightly against the outside skin. Might try to run a few clecos through and make some tabs on the inside to pick up the cleco and put pressure on the inside of the window in these places. Somebody must have a better idea. John epplin Mk4 #467 From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Windows (fwd) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 98 10:30:36 EST John Epplin writes: >I am in process of installing the windows in the turtleback. Does >anyone have a good method of holding the window in contact with the >outer skin?........ Somebody must >have a better idea. I don't know if this is any better, but I'll tell you what I did. For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to get the "cleco" method described in the plans to work, so I took some 1/4" dowels, cut them to about 2" long, and sharpened one end (like a pencil). I positioned the windows in place and then jammed the dowels into the exposed foam edge around the window, pressing down onto the acrylic. This worked reasonably well - there are a few spots where the window is 1/16" or so away from the outer skin, but for the most part it's within 1/32". After the flox cured, I removed the dowels and glassed per plans. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 07:42:11 -0800 Subject: Re: COZY: Windows From: alwick@juno.com (ok How) On Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:51:03 -0600 Epplin John A writes: >I am in process of installing the windows in the turtleback. Does >anyone have a good method of holding the window in contact with the >outer skin? I would think this would be the ideal condition. I have >made a small aluminum angle that I attached with clecos to hold the >long >edge in contact but have several places where I cannot seem to get it >to >lay tightly against the outside skin. Might try to run a few clecos >through and make some tabs on the inside to pick up the cleco and put >pressure on the inside of the window in these places. Somebody must >have a better idea. > >John epplin Mk4 #467 > I didn't use clecos. On the inside of the turtleback I placed a 2x4. It runs the length of the turtleback. Clamp 2x4 to each end of turtleback using springclamp (or whatever). Now just wedge soft foam (like the stuff in seat cushions) between 2x4 and window. Worked just fine, no problem at all. As I recall, the window does not have the same radius as the turtleback, so you end up with a very slight area of flox fill at top and bottom of window. It's very slight and looks just fine. Hope this helps -al Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 21:39:48 -0800 From: Wayne Lanza Subject: Re: COZY: Windows Epplin John A wrote: > > I am in process of installing the windows in the turtleback. Does > anyone have a good method of holding the window in contact with the > outer skin? For what it's worth, here goes... When I installed the windows in my turle deck I had to do some final forming of the lexan for it to conform to the curve tightly. I took a window and heated it for a few minutes in the kitchen oven at about 150F. Note: don't try this with a GAS oven - bad JUJU's can happen... Set the window on the rack with the edges DOWN, watch the window for any movement. When it starts to "spread" pull it out and push it into place in the prepared opening in the turtle deck. You'll have to hold it until it has cooled. As I recall, to hold the large windows down for a tight fit requires all five of your hands, three of your feet and probably your head too! I put on a great show I'm sure... so you might want to ask for assistance, but it did make the fit tight. As far as holding the windows in while glueing, I've watched as many windows were installed in velocities. Try this, use 'pop-sickle' sticks (or cut down stir sticks) about 3" long. Sharpen the ends and edges to look like an oyster shucker and jam them into the foam accross edge of the lexan. Just be careful so as not to start the inside layup peeling off the foam. Hope this is useful, Wayne Lanza From: Epplin John A Subject: RE: COZY: Windows Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 07:59:34 -0600 Want to thank everybody that replied. I used Al wicks suggestion with the 2X4. I already had the clecos installed on the long edge so I left these in place with a aluminum angle about 13 in long instead of the washers. ( small window) I trimmed the piece that I had cut out for the window about 1/4 in all 4 sides and padded it with several shop rags covered with saran wrap. Small bubble pack material might have been better but I didn't have any laying around. I then placed this on the inside of the window and clamped a 2X4 on the inside with some scrap foam pieces to provide reasonably even pressure on the backup piece. Removed everything and filled the slot about half full of flox, trying to make sure I got a good coating on the inside of the outer skin and had some flox in the bottom of the slot. I then carefully inserted window and clecoed my angle back in place and inserted the pressure pad and 2X4 with clamps etc. Quite a bit of flox was extruded out on the outside, which was good I figured. Cleaned up the mess and went to bed. This morning I removed the clecos to make sure I could get them out without any trauma and left everything else intact. It looks verry good, the outside skin seem to b even all the way around the window, It maybe could be a little tighter but not much. I think having it even is more important appearance wise then the resulting thickness. I liked the vacuum idea Ken Sargent suggested. I actually have a good vac pump in my collection of stuff but was not sure how he expected to rig this up. Ken, if you care to elaborate a bit maybe I will try this for the rest of the windows. Do I need to place plastic film on both sides? If not, will too much flox be sucked out of the joint? Thanks everybody John epplin Mk4 #467 From: Epplin John A Subject: COZY: Canopy Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 11:07:36 -0600 Just trimmed the canopy to the .25 in above the longeron dimension. I marked the tape edge points with the appropriate templates and used a thin strip of aluminum as a curve, this was about 1 in wide by .010 thick soft aluminum. It will conform nicely to the points marked by the templates if you twist it appropriately. This may take several hands but it can make a nice smooth line. I read in the book that you must have at least .75 in material below the tape edge and .5 in at the instrument panel cutout. My problem is that I have 1.75 minimum material and up to about 4 in at the front edge. I can see a problem when it comes time to cut the front edge free. I am afraid that I will cut into the acrylic with the saw. This may well cause the start of a crack. Should I trim the canopy at this time to make sure I will have room to make the cut without hitting the acrylic? Or am I doing something bad wrong here? Thanks for any help John Epplin Mk4 #467 From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Canopy (fwd) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 98 13:09:17 EST John Epplin writes: >......... My problem is that >I have 1.75 minimum material and up to about 4 in at the front edge. If you've trimmed the canopy to be 0.25" above the longerons, I'm not sure I understand how you could possibly have this much material available under the tape - you must have put the tape edge awfully high, no? >...... Should I trim the canopy at this time to >make sure I will have room to make the cut without hitting the acrylic? You glass the outside of the canopy first, and once you flip it to do the inside, you have easy access to the foam and acrylic bubble. It is simple to use a dremel/ryobi tool or die grinder/cutoff wheel after flipping to cut the acrylic back to whatever level you'd like. I did some trimming after flipping, and also used my ryobi to round all the acrylic edges so the glass would curve around easily. So, I'd say you don't have to do the final canopy trimming until you flip it to finish the inside. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 08:48:09 -0600 From: Darren DeLoach Subject: COZY: Article on Dick Kreidel's canopy seals on-line Wayne Wright at canard.com has kindly offered a permanent home to an article on Dick Kreidel's canopy seals solution, discussed on the canard.com mailing list a month or so back. There are ten photos totalling 212K, plus the original text from the mailing list and some additional comments on the photos. http://www.canard.com/articles/9802/kreidel.htm (or follow the links from the canard.com home page). -- Darren DeLoach http://www.deloach.com Chap. 6 From: Epplin John A Subject: COZY: Spray-Lat Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 08:41:31 -0600 I got the canopy of my Mk4 fitted and the outside of the frame glassed. Cut it free of the fuselage and made a substantial mounting frame, removed it and placed it upside-down on the table. Having read Marks 'OAF' story, I spent extra time on the temp mounting frame. Now I opened a can of Spray-Lat. It is a milky white substance about like latex house paint. I tried a bit on a scrap piece of the canopy to make sure no bad things were going to happen. Next day it came off too easy, at least that was my opinion. It just sort of fell off when I picked up the scrap piece. Not knowing just how it was supposed to work, I painted the inside of the canopy with a brush. Next day, the plan was to paint another coat. When I tried to paint over the first coat, it just fell off. I used my shop vac and removed 99% of the stuff. Next I tried to spray a thin coat with a standard spray gun. I heated the milky stuff in the gun placed in my epoxy cabinet at 100 deg. F. A thin coat looked promising. When it dried I tried spraying another coat. The air from the spray gun blew off half of the previous coat. Is this really the stuff I am supposed to be using? I got it from Wicks recently. I don't think it froze in transit as the weather has been quite mild here during the time it was in shipment. I have never used the product before and consequently don't know what to expect. Maybe I got a bad batch. Maybe I don't know how to apply it, beats me. Anybody got any ideas? Thanks John epplin Mk4 #467 From: Jim Hocut Subject: RE: COZY: Spray-Lat Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 07:20:58 -0800 I just experimented with some spray-lat for the first time, while it wasn't terribly difficult to remove it didn't come off near as easy as John described. I would be suspicious of the cleanliness of the canopy, such as any oils or waxes left over from the manufacturing process. You may try cleaning a small area with denatured alcohol to see if it makes a difference. I was told by a fellow builder that if I was going to brush the stuff on to plan of 4 coats. That's what I tried and it seemed to be about right. Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Spray-Lat Date: Mon, 9 Mar 98 10:30:02 EST John Epplin wrote: >....... Now I opened a can of Spray-Lat. >Is this really the stuff I am supposed to be using? I got it from Wicks >recently. I don't think it froze in transit as the weather has been >quite mild here during the time it was in shipment. I have never used >the product before and consequently don't know what to expect. Maybe I >got a bad batch. Maybe I don't know how to apply it, beats me. Very strange. As Jim Hocut said, I just brushed on 3 - 5 coats of the stuff - it stuck just fine, as long as I let the first coat dry. I even tried peeling a bit off just to see how it would work, and it came off just fine - it works better the thicker it is, so it may be a good idea to put on more than 5 coats. Anyway, it sounds as if you've got a bad batch, or else your canopy is severely contaminated with something on the surface. I'd replace the spray-lat and try again. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com From: "norm" Subject: Re: COZY: Spray-Lat Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 12:34:44 -0500 i dont think its best to use alcohol to clean the plexi canopy or windows, i didnt clean mine at all for the spray-lat coating. i just dabbed it on with an epoxy brush. norm -----Original Message----- From: Jim Hocut To: cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com Date: Monday, March 09, 1998 10:29 AM Subject: RE: COZY: Spray-Lat > >I just experimented with some spray-lat for the first time, while it >wasn't terribly difficult to remove it didn't come off near as easy as >John described. I would be suspicious of the cleanliness of >the canopy, such as any oils or waxes left over from the >manufacturing process. You may try cleaning a small area >with denatured alcohol to see if it makes a difference. > >I was told by a fellow builder that if I was going to brush the stuff >on to plan of 4 coats. That's what I tried and it seemed to >be about right. > >Jim Hocut >jhocut@mindspring.com > > From: "Rick Roberts" Subject: Re: COZY: Spray-Lat Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 09:47:58 -0800 I just tried some Spray-Lat I got from Aircraft Spruce about 6-8 months ago. It was horrible. I sprayed it with a air pot like it said and it went on okay, it cured okay, but it doesn't stay on very well. All in all, I pulled it off and put on some 12" wide flashbreaker tape. It is stuff I had left over from my autoclave days. It comes off only when I want it too and comes off clean. Rick Roberts Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 14:40:14 -0800 From: hrogers@slac.stanford.edu (Howard Rogers) Subject: Re: COZY: Spray-Lat Norm says: >i dont think its best to use alcohol to clean the plexi canopy or windows, i >didnt clean mine at all for the spray-lat coating. i just dabbed it on with >an epoxy brush. >norm And he is absolutely right! This subject keeps coming up, and I'm surprised that the literature that comes with a canopy, no matter who manufactures it, does not include a warning against using solvents. Alcohol is a DEFINITE no-no. You won't notice anything unusual immediately after using it on Lucite, but it will craze later. There may be other approved solvents I am unaware of, but one that I AM aware of is kerosene, if you suspect oily or waxy contamination. Followed by a good soap and water wash and rinse, and a thorough drying, and you will have no problems getting good spray lat to stick. Not alcohol! I'd sure hate to see someone unwrap his formerly beautiful canopy after months of work on a beautiful paint job, and see zillions of little crazing fissures. Howard Rogers A&P 2005148 From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 16:07:54 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Spray-Lat Jim Holcutt wrote <3-5 coats spray-lat> Overnight dry between coats, not going over fresh material, and yes atleast 3 coats. I used 2" cheap brush from Wicks. From: "Rick Roberts" Subject: Re: Fw: COZY: Spray-Lat Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 08:38:51 -0800 I've gotten a couple of questions about "What is flashbreaker tape?" It is a polyester or mylar tape with a hi temperature arcylic or rubber based adhesive on it. It is designed for keeping resin and adhesives (flash) from sticking to unwanted places on a part or tool. It tends to come out "easily" after a prolonged cure at 350F. Great stuff, a little expensive. see Air Tech's website for more info. http://www.airtechintl.com/product3.html#tapes Rick Roberts From: Epplin John A Subject: COZY: Spray lat Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 07:15:10 -0600 Thanks everybody for sharing your spray-lat experiences. It appears I have a bad can of the material. For the immediate solution I taped some 6 mil plastic cut is several pieces down with electrical tape. I will take up the material with Wicks. This will be the first time I have had even a minor problem with any of their products. Almost thought they were perfect! John epplin Mk4 #467 Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 21:16:37 -0600 From: Mike Davis Subject: COZY: Spraylat Wick's is contacting everyone who has bought spraylat lately advising them to check their can. According to them, if you dip a finger in it and rub it between another finger and it feels gritty, you have a bad batch. RATS! and I was going to paint the inside glass tonight. Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 08:36:54 -0800 Subject: COZY: Trimming glass at canopy plex From: alwick@juno.com (ok How) Would appreciate some suggestions here. Just completed canopy frame. Have yet to trim glass where it mates to plexiglass. Would like to arrive at crisp edge w/o cutting into plex. I used the tape on plex as recommended, but there are areas where the glass went over the tape. Knife trim would score plex. I've seen a couple unattractive canopies, don't want mine to be one of them. So what's a good way to trim canopy edge? Best thing I can think of is to use stone on dremmel, canopy tape in place, and try not to go thru tape to canopy. Then follow with sanding block? Help!!!! Thanks -al wick 71% comp. Cozy MkIV with stock Subaru 2.5 engine. Computerized cockpit. Just completed proto engine mount, now working towards engine ignite! _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Trimming glass at canopy plex Date: Mon, 30 Mar 98 9:45:07 EST Al Wick writes; >So what's a good way to trim canopy edge? Best thing I can think of is to >use stone on dremmel, canopy tape in place, and try not to go thru tape >to canopy. Then follow with sanding block? That's about what I did with an abrasive ball. I tried a cutoff wheel on the Dremel (actually Ryobi) first and got about 60% done before I put a ding in the canopy. Switched to the ball and finished up. Take your time....... -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Mon, 30 Mar 98 17:02:12 EST From: "KEN SARGENT" Subject: Re: COZY: Trimming glass at canopy plex Some excerpts from Atto Haas who makes Plexiglass.... ********************************************************* SCRATCH REMOVAL on PLEXIGLASO Acrylic Sheet Products 1. Scratch Removal should only be used if the surface imperfections are too deep to be removed by light buffing and the resulting optical distortion can be tolerated. Test to see if sanding is required: Rub fingernail along the scratch...if it is felt then sanding is required. 2. Use the finest sand paper that will remove the imperfections. Coarse paper will only create more scratches. Open coat sandpaper should be used. 3. Try using 600 grit sandpaper wrapped around a rubber padded sanding block. Sand over the scratch using increasingly larger areas of sanding. 4. If the scratch is not removed step down to 400 grit. 5. The sanding should be done in directions 30 degrees apart to product a diamond pattern. 6. After sanding and stepping down to 600 grit, polish the acrylic. Caution: Do not use disc or belt sanders dry. Wet sanders are preferred but dry orbital sanders can be used with care. With mechanical sanders, water or oil coolants are desirable. Heat generation during the sanding operation may degrade the physical properties of the sheet. Machine Buffing Plexiglass Acrylic Sheet Products The Plexiglas product should be clean and dry at the start of each buffing operation. Some polishing compounds leave the surface clean after buffing. If these materials are not used, washing should follow the last step in polishing. If the part has previously been sanded or is deeply scratched, an abrasive coated wheel is used first. The abrasive is a standard polishing compound composed of very fine alumina or similar abrasive and tallow. When most of the scratches have been reduced on the first wheel, the Plexiglas product is buffed on the second wheel, charged only with tallow. The first two wheels should be air-ventilated cotton muslin rag wheels operating at 3,000 to 4,500 surface feet per minute (SFPM) => 1/4 diameter of buffing wheel in inches x spindle speed in RPM. The Plexiglas product is next brought to a high polish by a soft loose buff in which no abrasive or tallow are used. These buffs should be made of imitation chamois or cotton flannel. The wheels should be 10 to 12 inches in diameter and run at 3,000 to 4,500 SFPM. A hand-applied coat of wax may be used in place of buffing on the finish wheel, if desired. Caution: Avoid the generation of excess heat during the buffing operation. Excessive heat leads to stress in the acrylic which could degrade it's physical properties. ****************************************************************************** My suggestions: hold the part tight, don't let it chatter. Make sure your chips are clearing if you cut or grind. Watch for heat buildup. We do use jig-saws here to cut, but found you need to hold the part very tight and use special blades. Routers work well if you move quickly and control the heat and chatter. Ken Sargent Cozy #555 ken_sargent@wda.Disney.com Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 13:17:52 -0800 Subject: Re: COZY: Trimming glass at canopy plex From: alwick@juno.com (ok How) Hey guys thanks for the suggestions. I am proceeding slowly. Outside edge appears best suited to using piece of hacksaw blade (thanks Rego). You can feel blade get mushy as you reach tape. Blade works well by laying it flat against canopy (resulting in your cutting with the kerf of one side of blade). Don't know which method I will use for interior cuts. Thanks again. -al wick 71% comp. Cozy MkIV with stock Subaru 2.5 engine. Computerized cockpit. _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 09:30:26 -0800 Subject: COZY: Plans changes, chap 18, canopy frame From: alwick@juno.com (ok How) Recommend you change plans for chapt 18 as follows: Chp 18, Step 12: Easy to overlook fit of canopy interior frame to top of instrument panel. Frame will fit fine until you glass frame interior. You will likely have to remove additional foam from canopy frame to blend this area. Chp 18, Step 13: Do step 14 before step 13. Reduces probability of canopy frame interferences. Chp 18, Step 13: Don't forget to also do 15 Bid plys for the two handle pads. See main view of illustration above. This should help save you some grief. -al wick 71% comp. Cozy MkIV sn 389 with stock Subaru 2.5 engine. Computerized cockpit. Working towards engine ignite. _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 16:02:47 -0800 Subject: COZY: Need ideas for alternate instrument cover. From: alwick@juno.com (ok How) I understand there are people who have found better way to construct the instrument cover. Nothing in our archives however. Anyone care to share some insights? Plans method has instruments covered with two components: the" instrument cover" and the "canopy top". I would prefer 1 component to simplify construction and allow wide access, quickly. "Canopy top" has quick release along the sides. Great! Except it has 5 screws you have to access by removing a third item, the canard. Yuck. "instrument cover" exposes only a small area. Anyone put the 5 "canopy top" nutplates on the front side of f28? At least then you wouldn't have to remove the canard to gain full access to instruments. How about making the "instrument cover" permenantly attached to "canopy top"? Thanks for your ideas. -al wick 72% comp. Cozy MkIV sn 389 with stock Subaru 2.5 engine. Computerized cockpit. Working towards engine ignite. _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Subject: Re: COZY: Need ideas for alternate instrument cover. From: mbeduhn@juno.com (Mark W Beduhn) Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 20:31:19 EST On Fri, 3 Apr 1998 16:02:47 -0800 alwick@juno.com (ok How) writes: >I understand there are people who have found better way to construct >the instrument cover. Nothing in our archives however. Anyone care to >share some insights? > >Thanks for your ideas. > >-al wick Al, I made my instrument cover one piece. Pull two hinge pins and the cover comes off and you have full access to the back of the instruments. Similar to the plans, except I made the whole thing one piece. I have pictures that I can scan and send to you but Juno doesn't accept attachments. Is there some other address that I can send them to that will accept attachments? Mark Beduhn _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 22:27:03 -0500 From: "Edmond A. Richards" Subject: COZY: Need ideas for alternate instrument cover. Al, I built the fuselage top per the plans but just recently reversed the screws and the nuts. The screws will be a little difficult to get to fro= m the cockpit but at least I won't have to pull the canard. I figure it wi= ll also help when installing the instruments and making sure there is adequa= te clearance around the elevator linkage. For what it's worth. Ed Richards Cozy Mark IV #88 From: Fritzx2 Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 22:59:07 EST Subject: Re: COZY: Need ideas for alternate instrument cover. Al Wick wrote about possible improvements to the plans method instument cover. > How about making the "instrument cover" permenantly attached to "canopy > top"? One drawback to including the instrument cover to the canopy would be the possibility of getting rain, dust, grass or whatever happened to be in the air in/on your instuments when you have the canopy open. I have seen a lot of stuff get kicked up at Sun-N-Fun when everyone tries to leave the parking area at the end of the day. I can't say about the connection of the cover to the F28 since I'm not familiar with how all that gets connected..still in the early chapters. John Fritz fritzx2@aol.com From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 22:26:13 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Need ideas for alternate instrument cover. My instrument panel cover has 5 clips that slide under the lip (rain trough) aft of F-22, horizontal, below and aft of the canopy front seal. The panel sets on top of the lip. There are 2 10-32 screws each side that go into nut plates buried in flox in the stiffening top instrument panel rib. At the center top of the instrument panel, there is a small clip angle with a 8-32 nut plate with a countersunk screw through the instrument panel. The aft edge of the panel has a rounded edge for safety if you would hit you edge. The panel is 3 plys BID, plus extra plys around the edges. There are defroster ducts built in the underside. The whole thing is very neat with excellent access to everything. From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 06:51:25 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Need ideas for alternate instrument cover. The last sentence should read: The whole thing is very neat with defroster ducts on the underside and slots topside for the forward canopy and side outlets for the canopy sides. Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 15:32:31 -0700 Subject: COZY: Gas cylinder canopy stop mod From: alwick@juno.com (ok How) Chapt 18, step 22 Since I had a number of gas cylinders sitting around, and didn't have the one specified in the plans, I modified the installation. I ended up with cylinder that is hidden from view instead of cluttering the access opening to rear compartment. I used a 25.5" extended, 17.5" collapsed cylinder. It is installed in the back seat area. Instead of mounting the one end to the permanent head rest, I mounted it to the canopy frame directly behind the head rest. The other end mounts to the bench seat. It sits about the middle of the center support for the bench seat. Warning. The ends of these gas cylinders are spring loaded. If you stroke them too far, the force applied climbs dramatically. This caused temp distortion of canopy frame at rear seam. When I closed the canopy I was overstroking the cylinder. -al wick 74% comp. Cozy MkIV sn 389 with stock Subaru 2.5 engine. Computerized cockpit. Working towards engine ignite. _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 15:09:07 -0700 Subject: COZY: Fuselage top mods, chap 18 From: alwick@juno.com (ok How) It appears that a lot of the builders are modifying the installation of the fuselage top (between instr panel and f28). I chose to make the fuse top and the instrument cover 1 piece. Also made it unnecessary to remove the canard and 5 fasteners in order to gain decent access to instruments. Instructions follow: Chapt 18, step 15. Don't use 1/8" spacer as shown in fig. 63. Just place a piece of tape instead. Chapt 18, step 16. Don't apply box sealing tape to f28. Apply it to fuse top instead. This makes the 4 ply angle piece permanently attached to f28. You then have option of installing the 5 screws thru the fuse top instead of thru f28. Some people have chosen to eliminate most or all of the 5 fasteners. Chapt 18, step 17. Forget all the tabs on instrument cover. Just permanently attach cover to fuse top. Hope this helps. Thanks to those who described these changes to me. -al wick 74% comp. Cozy MkIV sn 389 with stock Subaru 2.5 engine. Computerized cockpit. Working towards engine ignite. _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] From: WAV4176 Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 00:19:56 EDT Subject: COZY: chapter 18 - inside glassing Help! I purchased an incomplete Cozy project and it was almost ready for glassing the canopy. This I completed and just cut the canopy from fuselage, plans call from glassing engine mount reinforcements (ch 18 pg 5 on newer set of plans). My plans ( #490) which came with the project, do not say anything about these reinforcements. Was this in one of the newsletters ? I don't see any reinforcements and the turtleback in narrower than the longerons at the firewall. Would appreciate some insight as to what the older plans did vs. the newer plans a friend showed me. Wendell From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: chapter 18 - inside glassing Date: Tue, 21 Apr 98 10:53:39 EDT Wendell Voto writes: >plans call from glassing engine mount reinforcements (ch 18 pg 5 on newer set >of plans). My plans ( #490) which came with the project, do not say anything >about these reinforcements. Was this in one of the newsletters ? I don't see >any reinforcements and the turtleback in narrower than the longerons at the >firewall. Hmmm. I'm not sure what you've got there, Wendell. I've got plans #386, and they definitely DO show the glassing of the engine mount reinforcements on page 18-5 in Step 9. So do plans #479 (bil kleb's), which I've also seen. These are all COZY MKIV plans, yes? BTW, the turtleback IS narrower (by a couple of inches, except for the flanges) than the firewall. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com From: David de Sosa Subject: Re: COZY: chapter 18 - inside glassing Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 08:36:52 -0800 He has a MKIV prototype which I also have that is approximately 2 inches narrower in width in the front seat area. There are a few other notable differences as well like a lack of the 'lxy' stringers in the aft portion of the fuselage sides. I'm not sure what set of plans he is using, but I know the MKIV plans were not available when these two projects were started. I believe builders were told to use Cosy 3 plans and or drawings for certain chapters until the MKIV plans became available. If he is using MKIV plans then I don't understand why the engine reinforcement section of chapter 18 is missing. David de Sosa Cozy MKIV #80 ------------------ Original text From: "me" , on 3/6/2000 8:26 PM: are we sure this is a MKIV sounds like a Cozy 3 place. how much narrower is the turtleback than the logerons>?...... ---------- > From: Marc J. Zeitlin > To: Cozy MK-IV Builders > Subject: COZY: chapter 18 - inside glassing > Date: Monday, April 21, 2098 9:53 AM > > Wendell Voto writes: > > >plans call from glassing engine mount reinforcements (ch 18 pg 5 on newer set > >of plans). My plans ( #490) which came with the project, do not say anything > >about these reinforcements. Was this in one of the newsletters ? I don't see > >any reinforcements and the turtleback in narrower than the longerons at the > >firewall. > > Hmmm. I'm not sure what you've got there, Wendell. I've got plans #386, > and they definitely DO show the glassing of the engine mount > reinforcements on page 18-5 in Step 9. So do plans #479 (bil kleb's), > which I've also seen. These are all COZY MKIV plans, yes? > > BTW, the turtleback IS narrower (by a couple of inches, except for the > flanges) than the firewall. > > -- > Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com From: "D. Rothrock" Subject: COZY: canopy gas/spring strut Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 20:42:09 -0400 Any ideas regarding canopy strut positioning in Cozy MKIV? I'm ready to purchase a strut and want to try to avoid the canopy falling in wind gusts...I've seen it happen...(Size, positioning etc) Thanks, Don, Port St. Lucie, Florida Cozy MKIV rdrock@gte.net Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 07:38:48 +0200 From: Rego Burger Subject: COZY: Canopy gas/spring strut I mounted my Right headrest flush with the front of the shoudler brace. This gave me enough clearance between the rear of the headrest and the canopy bulkhead to fit the gas-strut's ball joint directly into the headrest (rear) For this to work I fitted a 3/8"-1/2" thick 1" sq. alumin. insert with 2 ply glass overlay...drill and tapped it to the ball joint thread. The other end goes about 1,5" inward of the headrest ( moving one ) on the canopy bulkhead. The ball joint on the right seats head rest is about 6" up from the base...this puts pressure on the canopy in the down position too, helping to stop it from flipping open accidently. With full extension I can stand up in the left seat without bumping the canopy. A photo will appear on my web site one day. Rego Burger, web site: http://home.intekom.com/glen/rnb.htm (home e-mail) mailto:rnb@intekom.co.za RSA Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 14:53:41 -0700 Subject: COZY: Safety and cosmetic enhancement From: alwick@juno.com (ok How) If you remember, Nat had his canopy fly open when doing cg testing. "Safety catch" didn't quite work. Additionally, the first Cozy I ever saw had safety catch which didn't catch. "Happens occasionally" said the owner. He just bent it back to position. I also think both the safety catch and the canopy handle retainer look less than attractive. I did a bunch of head scratchin with friend and very pleased with result. Difficult to explain how it works, I'll try.... Eliminated the exterior door, handle retainer, and safety catch. Exterior access is accomplished by pressing a flush mounted button located near the static tube. This button is keyed, so no access if I have it locked. Safety interlock is accomplished with an automobile trunk latch. It is located out of sight, in back seat, flush with longeron. You close the lid, safety catch activates mechanically. If you are inside plane, you can only release it if the interior "safe lever" is off, and you pull on the release. Both this safe lever and release are independant of the normal cam operated latch mechanism in your plane. I just landed and want to exit: I move "safe lever" to "safe off", pull on release lever, then pull back on the normal canopy lever. Canopy opens, I exit. I close lid, safety catches. I place key to lock, canopy locked. I just jumped in, want to take off: I push normal cam lever forward, close canopy. Safety catches, I release handle, normal cam engages locks. I place "safety lever" to "safe on". Oops, what if I forget to latch or "safe on"? My computer screen shows picture of cozy with flashing mechanism. If I move throttle too far forward it goes crazy with flashing warning and voice message in headsets "you forgot canopy safe". Additional safety features. If I crash and backseat occupants ok, they can open canopy. If we are all unconscious, person on outside can press canopy release button, lift canopy. Other mods: I added a compression spring to the normal cam latch that forces normal lever to the lock position. Surprise of the century: this only took 10 hours of my construction time. If I get to subtract the time spent to make the components no longer needed, that would be 9 hours or so. If I did it again, it would probably take 2 hours. It helped that most head scratching was not during building hours. Sorry if I didn't explain this too well. It's really tough to describe, yet it is Very very simple. Hope this helps someone to a safer plane. -al wick 76% comp. Cozy MkIV sn 389 with stock Subaru 2.5 engine. Computerized cockpit. Building the last glass components. _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 22:13:21 -0700 Subject: Re: COZY: Safety and cosmetic enhancement From: alwick@juno.com (ok How) No, I'm sorry I don't. Let me try to explain the sys better. Existing canopy release handle mod: 1)remove the alum components which mount to the instrument panel. If you don't remove them, you compromise system safety(crash related logic). These are the alum" handle retention pieces" I'm talking about. 2) add a compression spring to the existing tube that connects each of your three cams. This spring compresses against the seat back, and forces the "existing handle" to the extreme forward position at all times. Basically this spring goes around the tube at your shoulder. It forces the canopy handle closed. Same method the rv guys use. You'll have to drill a hole in the tube to hold a washer in place against the spring. Mods to the three existing canopy latch cams: Put the canopy handle at full forward position(it's natural position if you have done the above spring thing). Now close the canopy. Verify that you can close the canopy full stroke. If you can't, you have to adjust cam rods to achieve this. What you are doing here is closing the canopy w/o engaging the 3 dogs. This is to duplicate the logic used when you lock up the canopy for the evening. After doing the above, you now have to verify that you did not compomise the timing of three dogs. Best way to do this is to place modeling clay around the three bolts that engage the dogs to see if they all three seat fully when canopy latched. Make sense? I tested this by removing instrument panel cover(s) and latching and unlatching canopy, check clay, adjust, repeat. Incidently, the design of the 3 dogs is marginal in my opinion. They don't allow enough for builder variation. Some builders may not be able to achieve the above requirements w/o remaking the dogs. They really should be designed with 2" hole spacing instead of 1.5". If you find this is the case, make a long wood dog to test proper hole spacing, etc ,etc. wow, am I long winded what? I'll continue tomorrow if you're interested. Much more difficult to explain than to do. I need digital camera, eh? The whole thing was actually quite a challenge to initially figure out. But it really is quick to do. AND IT IS MUCH MUCH SAFER in my opinion. -al wick 76% comp. Cozy MkIV sn 389 with stock Subaru 2.5 engine. Computerized cockpit. Building the last glass components. On Sat, 16 May 1998 12:16:51 +1000 allan aaron writes: > Al, > >I've been thinking about this for a long time (more than 10 hours... >in >the shower, in the car, etc etc). Have you got any pictures that >describe what you have done. > >Thanks >Allan > > > > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 08:36:55 +0200 From: Rego Burger Subject: COZY: Safety / canopy latch I'm working on a bolt action latch, with spring tension, as a backup should this one fail a 1/16" cable with quick release "hook" will be installed.... this will allow the canopy to flip up a bit but not far enough to have headsets fly out. Say 3" up max. Added to all this my gas-strut places about 20lbs of force in the closed position. Rego Burger, web site: http://home.intekom.com/glen/rnb.htm (home e-mail) mailto:rnb@intekom.co.za RSA From: "Wilhelmson, Jack" Subject: RE: COZY: Safety and cosmetic enhancement Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 08:50:14 -0400 AL: I agree that the canopy latching system and safety catch as shown on the Cozy plans has some drawbacks, however, it was originally designed for simplicity and low cost. The only really bad thing about it is the safety catch is made from a material that bends and it becomes non functional after a short time. I corrected this long ago by remaking the safety catch out of blued spring steel sheet. This material can be purchased from hardware stores and other hardware supply sources. It is hard to cut and form but for the one bend required it is not impossible. The operation is the same except that the catch never gets out of adjustment and fails to act as a safety catch. Also when closing the canopy it makes a loud bell sound when it slips over the latch indicating that the safety catch is working. This is a easy fix to new and existing installations and might save a bad situation or even a life. From: gperry@usit.com Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 17:55:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: COZY: Epoxy on windows Well...despite my best efforts, I seem to have one epoxy drop and two smudges on my windows. I tried to sand off one area in preparation for using one of the plexiglass refinishing kits but it seems the plexiglas is not as tough as the epoxy. If I keep sanding, this would lead to a depression around the site of the drop. Has anyone else run into this problem? Any ideas??? Gregg From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 19:03:04 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Epoxy on windows gperry writes Take some 1200 wet/dry paper, glue it to a hard flat piece of 2" square wood. Sharp paper, on a flat hard surface will act like a file and only cut the high spots. Use masking or duct tape to protect surrounding area. Use a little liquid soap in sanding water and use much water. When down to plexiglass, switch to 1500 paper and then buff out per kit. This same procedure can be used to remove runs in paint. Saw in Eastwood catalog recently, as small block plane for planing flat runs. From: "Paul Stowitts" Subject: Re: COZY: Epoxy on windows Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 23:59:56 -0700 I had a few drops on my plexi too but I found that by carefully using a razor blade scrapper, the epoxy would pop right off as the plexi is too smooth for it too adhere well. Paul Stowitts Cozy Mark IV #200 ---------- > From: gperry@usit.com > To: cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com > Subject: COZY: Epoxy on windows > Date: Sunday, May 17, 1998 2:55 PM > > Well...despite my best efforts, I seem to have one epoxy drop and two > smudges on my windows. I tried to sand off one area in preparation for > using one of the plexiglass refinishing kits but it seems the plexiglas is > not as tough as the epoxy. If I keep sanding, this would lead to a > depression around the site of the drop. Has anyone else run into this > problem? Any ideas??? > > Gregg Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 08:54:25 +0200 From: Rego Burger Subject: COZY: Epoxy on windows Yep the odd drop gets on. If you're very cautious a sharp Stanley knife does the trick... epoxy does not stick to any smooth surface...with surgical precision you can "chip" it off with controlled pressure with the knife point on the drops. A magnifying glass helps. For smudges you're need to work harder. Often a large smudge peels off like sunburned skin, requiring a bit of a rub, or scrape. Sanding should be a last resort as this will require lot's of flatting and buffing. For prevention wax the canopy if you don't have any other protection method... when completed the wax washes off with liquid dishwash. JUST use non abrasive cloth like chamois. Good luck. Rego Burger, web site: http://home.intekom.com/glen/rnb.htm (home e-mail) mailto:rnb@intekom.co.za RSA Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 12:07:39 +0000 From: Bulent Subject: Re: COZY: Safety and cosmetic enhancement Hi All, I would like to let you know that there is a very nice two step rotary latch that is very versatile and easy to install. Last year I ordered 10 sets for the local Cozy builders. One Lancair builder liked them so much that he ripped his per plans latches and installed the new ones. After that 5 more Lancair builders did the same. They cost me about $13 ea with the strikers plus shipping. There is a discount on orders of 50 and more. I personaly think that you do not need the striker which cost about $3. I can fax or mail to interested builders the speck sheet. Now the bad part. Last week tried to help fellow builders with the Parker Hannifin brake line that is sold in 100 ft rolls, I was reprimanded by the "Moderator" for selling stuff. I have no intentions of making any profit, donate my time to order, split the rolls, package and go to the post office to mail them, just to help other builders. Best Regards to All; Bulent Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 12:17:23 -0700 Subject: Re: COZY: Safety and cosmetic enhancement From: alwick@juno.com (ok How) There are no part numbers on the two auto components. Which surprises me. I've got a wild idea here. Anyone who has a flying canard. I would be happy to help you put this system into your plane. I'll get the components, do the pre-assembly work. You fly into my local airport, stay at my home. Should take 2 hours or so, plus letting it cure overnight. You pay materials cost and I get some free stick time? I can't believe I'm just a year from completion and I have never been in any high performance plane, let alone a canard. There's no way I would ask someone to test my plane since it has relatively unproven components. I'm retired, so available any time. So, anytime this year, email me if you hear of someone interested. (Hurry up and we can go spot whales 20 min. away). For those not so inclined, here's the rest of the instructions. Step 2 of the mod to latch sys: In step 1 you removed the old handle lock bracket. You made sure you can close canopy with handle dogs engaged, or disengaged. Our stock canopy system has 3 alum angle brackets attached to the canopy. These mate with the 3 cam dogs. Replace the rear most alum. angle bracket with one that is 4" long. This new bracket is going to have 2 studs protruding- 1 to engage the dog, 1 to engage your new safety latch. No need to add a hard attach point. If you don't want to replace the old bracket, you can just drill and tap into old one and mate new one to it. Push button mechanism. It's from a Subaru, station wagon I believe. I cut out a 2"x2"x1/4" piece of plywood, drilled hole in center for protruding button, drilled 2 holes for the fasteners that hold button to wood. Wrap seran wrap around button, bolt button to plywood, flox whole assemble to fuselage. Seran wrap keeps flox out of button when curing. You can't depress button when it's locked. When unlocked, it cams a little lever on the inside of fuselage that moves a control cable. Control cable follows under longeron, back to the safety latch. Safety latch mechanism This is the key to the whole thing. Take a look at you trunk latch on your car. THIS one has 3 control cables going to it. One I call the "master control cable". Any time it is activated it releases the latch. The other control cable toggles the "safe switch". The safe switch enables and disables the 3rd control cable. So, "Master control cable" goes to my exterior push button. "Safe switch" cable goes along longeron to front seat to a point near the instrument panel. Don't want it to accidently get tripped. The 3rd control cable also goes near instrument panel. I made a 4" block of wood to attach beneath the longeron.The trunk latch mechanism is attached to that piece back at the rear end of the canopy lid. That's about it. Warning: test system thoroughly before you close the canopy. IF you are considering another system, ask these questions. Emergency access from exterior in case pilot unconscious? Canopy release from back seat? Independent safety to prevent inadvertent open? Independent latch sys ? Able to eliminate fuse door? Able to lock canopy? Cheap and proven? Attractive (no protruding mechanisms) -al wick 76% comp. Cozy MkIV sn 389 with stock Subaru 2.5 engine. Computerized cockpit. Building the last glass components. On Mon, 18 May 98 09:35:44 -0600 lschuler@cellular.uscc.com writes: >Got any part numbers? > >Larry Schuler _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 15:33:26 +0000 From: Bulent Subject: COZY: Rotary latches Hi Mark, I have not installed mine yet. I can take some photos with the digital camera from the Lancair and email them to you so you can have an idea. The latches come in three different versions with 3 different ways to release them. You must choose how would you like to mount them. The good part is that they can be linked together with rod or wire linkage to release at the same time. I like the two stage action just like a car door. Will try to get some photos ASAP. "Thank you for the spec sheet on the rotary latch. Do you have pictures of how you installed them? Very interested. Marc Parmelee N425CZ" Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 12:34:21 -0800 From: hrogers@slac.stanford.edu (Howard Rogers) Subject: Re: COZY: Epoxy on windows >gperry writes >Take some 1200 wet/dry paper, glue it to a hard flat piece of 2" square wood. >Sharp paper, on a flat hard surface will act like a file and only cut the high >spots. Use masking or duct tape to protect surrounding area. Use a little >liquid >soap in sanding water and use much water. When down to plexiglass, switch to >1500 paper and then buff out per kit. This same procedure can be used to >remove >runs in paint. Saw in Eastwood catalog recently, as small block plane for >planing flat runs. If the epoxy drop won't pop off, this is a perfectly good way to solve your problem, with one nit-picking additional suggestion: I, personally, would never stick any Duct tape or Masking tape to the canopy, because they each can leave some nasty residue behind. I have some tape, from 3-M, called plater's tape. It comes in various widths, resembles electrician's tape, and leaves virtually no residue. It's edges seal extremely well. In fact, I will be using it to mask off the sharp edges of any graphics in my final paint job. A bit pricy, but hey... it's worth it. --Howard Rogers, 415-926-4052 hrogers@slac.stanford.edu Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 17:16:24 -0400 From: "Jeff S. Russell (http://www.AeroCad.com)" Subject: Re: COZY: Epoxy on windows Paul Stowitts wrote: > > I had a few drops on my plexi too but I found that by carefully using a > razor blade scrapper, the epoxy would pop right off as the plexi is too > smooth for it too adhere well. Gregg & Paul, That is the same thing that I did to get the mean stuff off -- Jeff Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 11:02:38 -0400 From: Paul Krasa Subject: COZY: SPRAY LAT Thank you Mark and Wayne for getting the Cozy list back up!!!!!!!! In desperation, I used Xylol to remove the Spraylat from my canopy. The good news is Xylol will soften the Spraylat up and make it easy to remove. The bad news is you have to be extremely careful to keep it on the canopy and not get it on the composite because it will eat the foam. How I softened the spraylat was to place paper towels dampened in xylol on the canopy. After ten to fifteen minutes remove the paper towels. Some of the Spraylat will come up with the paper towels and some will rub off with your fingers. Repeat until spraylat is gone. I was extrememly careful while doing this. The little bit of xylol which got ran off the canopy was wiped off quickly before it could damage the top coat of paint. I would not try this until the paint was applied because the paint acts as a sealer and protects the composite parts of the canopy. Paul Krasa Long EZ 214LP Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 09:59:54 -0400 From: (by way of Paul Krasa ) Subject: Re: COZY: SPRAY LAT In a message dated 98-05-28 11:05:38 EDT, you write: << Xylol will soften the Spraylat up >> What's Xylol??????????and where do you get it? I purchased Xylol at my local Lowe's Hardware Store. Paul Krasa Long EZ 214LP From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 14:09:14 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: SPRAY LAT On 05/29/98 09:59:54 you wrote: > >In a message dated 98-05-28 11:05:38 EDT, you write: > ><< Xylol will soften the Spraylat up >> >What's Xylol??????????and where do you get it? > > >I purchased Xylol at my local Lowe's Hardware Store. > > I don't know about Xylol, but some chemicals have long term before the results (crazing take effect). Has anyone checked the manufacturer? Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 07:53:33 -0700 Subject: COZY: Canopy install oops From: alwick@juno.com (ok How) Wanted to warn you guys about a little error I made when installing canopy. Following the plans, I added the gas strut. I placed it such that it was just barely able to open canopy. When the canopy opened full, the moment changed and it was held in the up position quite securely. I really liked the way it worked and I had positioned it such that the strut is not visible. Great! Unfortunately, later on in the build process, you add a fairing to the canopy using pour foam and glass. Suprise of suprises, the canopy won't stay open anymore. That extra foam and glass on the perimeter of canopy significantly altered the moment. Happy building! -al wick 79% comp. Cozy MkIV sn 389 with stock Subaru 2.5 engine. Computerized cockpit. Done building components, now sand, spend, sand. _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] From: Epplin John A Subject: RE: COZY: Cozy Mark IV Canopy Chap 18 Page 6 Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 07:30:04 -0500 Marty: I had some of the same questions, finally just put it all together. The templates do not fit the canopy well at all. I don't know where the difference comes from. My canopy was from Airplane Plastics. I don't remember the details but if you want, I am quite sure I still have the templates and can check them and report back the differences I ran into. I ran a nylon tie down strap, about 2 in. wide, around the entire fuselage to hold the rear of the canopy down rather than the weights suggested in the plans. You need a few spacer blocks of foam or whatever on the lower parts of the canopy but this seemed to work quite well. I was a bit skeptical of the weight scheme, my canopy required considerable force to hold it in contact with the turtle-back at the top. John Epplin Mk4 #467 > -----Original Message----- > From: Martin K. Kansky [SMTP:mkansky@esper.com] > Sent: Sunday, July 19, 1998 1:52 PM > To: 'cozy_builders@canard.com' > Subject: COZY: Cozy Mark IV Canopy Chap 18 Page 6 > > I am installing the canopy and am questioning the FS 50, 60, and 70 > templates. > > Specifically, do these templates at the tape line touch the canopy? All > of them are short about one inch from the plexiglass (except fs41). I am > wondering if I was sent the canopy for the three place versus the Mark IV. > I would appreciate knowing what the width of the canopy is suppose to be > at fs 50 60 and 70 for the Mark IV. I hope that this is a template > (builder problem) and not that I received the wrong canopy. > > Thank for your help. > > Marty Kansky #321 > Knoxville, TN Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 07:13:55 -0700 Subject: COZY: Re: Cozy Mark IV Canopy Chap 18 Page 6 From: alwick@juno.com (ok How) Marty, my forward most templates also didn't fit. I ignored it, cosmetic only. I used templates to achieve radius, ignored horizontal dimensions. I think we have been spoiled by exceptional instructions up to this point in build process. I found many potential improvements in the canopy section. I posted them. Check the archives. Congrats on being near the end of build process. This is when it starts to look like an airplane. -al wick 81% comp. Cozy MkIV sn 389 with stock Subaru 2.5 engine. Computerized cockpit. Done building components, now sanding. Expect completion date 4-30-99. From: "Will Chorley" Subject: COZY: Removing stubborn Sparylat Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 14:30:47 -0500
I had a problem removing the spraylat from my canopy (It's been on for a few years).  It came off - mostly - but left a patch just where you would like look out  to spot someone about to run into you!  I tried all my fingernails to no avail, but remembered somewhere from the past (I've been building for a LOOOOONG time) that if you spray/paint a good thick coat of new spraylat over the stubborn stuff it will come off with the new layer.  I tried it and, lo and behold, the patch of old stuff came right off - almost!  A second application got the rest off.  No risk of crazing due to solvent use. 
 
Just thought I'd pass on this tip.
 
Will
 From ???@??? Mon Aug 10 22:22:39 1998 Received: from twc2.betaweb.com (betaweb.com [206.43.209.18]) by strato-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult.n14767) with ESMTP id LAA04626 for ; Mon, 10 Aug 1998 11:20:28 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordomo@localhost) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) id LAA05494 for cozy_builders-list; Mon, 10 Aug 1998 11:13:57 -0400 X-Authentication-Warning: twc2.betaweb.com: majordomo set sender to owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com using -f Received: from victor1.mscomm.com (root@victor1.mscomm.com [205.227.92.1]) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id LAA05489 for ; Mon, 10 Aug 1998 11:13:52 -0400 Received: from astrong (annex562.mscomm.com [205.227.95.82]) by victor1.mscomm.com (8.8.8/8.8.5) with ESMTP id IAA12326; Mon, 10 Aug 1998 08:13:44 -0700 (PDT) Message-Id: <199808101513.IAA12326@victor1.mscomm.com> From: "astrong" To: "Tim LoDolce" , Cc: "cozy builders group" Subject: COZY: Re: [canard-aviators] Canopy Release Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 08:00:18 -0700 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Priority: 3 X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet Mail 4.70.1161 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sender: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: "astrong" X-UIDL: 4290bfed802ea402c9285e1bb6aa5a06 ---------- > From: astrong > To: Tim LoDolce > Cc: Alex & Norma Strong > Subject: Re: [canard-aviators] Canopy Release > Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 2:28 PM > > Tim, > I like your idea on marking the out side latch, the first one there may > not be familiar with our type of planes. I have included your idea in my > "INNOVATIONS" link in my homepage"http://www.canard.com/trim" I am sending > this to you and not the group, If it is OK with you then I will announce it > to the group. > > Alex > > ---------- > > From: Tim LoDolce > > To: canard-aviators@canard.com > > Subject: [canard-aviators] Canopy Release > > Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 7:25 AM > > > > [The Canard Aviators's Mailing list] > > Hi Guys and Gals, I've been reading with interest about the way to get > > out from the inside in case of an emergency and all points seem to have > > their merits but did you know that in many emergencies the pilot/pass > > are helpless in escaping? > > > > That's why the military has clearly printed escape arrows painted on the > > outside of the fuselage. > > > > My better half said the same thing to me as one of the group already > > mentioned after sitting in the back seat for more than a > > minute......"how do I get out in case of an emergency?" I use the push > > with your feet method also but I'm beginning to think differently, at > > least from the inside standpoint. > > > > I went to the print shop and had a very no nonsense and bold decal made > > with an arrow make up that states......"Canopy Latch Push Here" right at > > the door opening on the outside. I figure anything is better than > > nothing and if I'm unable to help in getting the canopy open I sure want > > to assist someone that might be on the outside looking in. > > > > Tim LoDolce > > EAA 1073 > > Varieze 26FM > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > For details on sponsors of this list, copyrights, and how to remove > > yourself from this list, please visit: > > > > http://www.canard.com/ca-ending.html > > > > (c) 1997,1998 Canard Aviators. support@canard.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 06:25:18 -0500 From: Vance Atkinson Subject: COZY: Re: naca scoops I don't sell those but Gene Zabler, up in Wisconson does. Look up his number in the Central states or look in some of the past central states letters for his note. Yes I have an outlet for air. It's through the center section backseat hole, down the middle of the spar, and out the lower wing attach hole on the bottom of the wing. A small reverse scoop covers some of the hole because the scoop is glued on 50% ahead of the hole for maximum effencieny. If I had it to over again I would add another one just like it on the other side (I still can). To make this work you will have to drill a one and a half or two inch hole (better), in the small bulkhead in the middle of the spar. This is most easiest during construction. But, you can still do it after, by using a die grinder with a cone shaped disc and reaching down through the center of the spar like I did. Takes about 30 seconds to make a hole. You could also run your nav. light wires through this hole if you make a second smaller hole in the butt-end of the spar. Vance Atkinson Cozy 43CZ 1200TT hrs Rob and Carla Kittler wrote: > > Hi Vance; > > Was wondering if you still offered the small naca scoops for cabin vent air? > Seems I recall an article somewhere that said you sold them at some point > for a reasonable price. If so, I'd be interested in 4 of them for my cozy > project. Could you advise availability and price? Also, what are your > thoughts about a naca scoop mounted in reverse somewhere to insure air is > evacuated from the cabin? > > Thanks bunches > > Robert Kittler From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: COZY: design change, canopy Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:02:21 -0600 Cozy Builders, Dennis Oelmann alerted me to the fact that there is and interference of the canopy latch with the fuselage top drip rail, if you follow the plans precisely (some people do). I went out to the airport and measured my plans model, and sure enough I made a mistake (see, I admitted it). In chapter 18, page 8, Fig. 45, where I show the cut line starting at 5.5" aft of the aft face of the instrument panel, on my plans model, it is just over 4.5". If you use 4.5", then all the other dimensions (forward canopy latch, and pads for the forward canopy latch hardware and safety catch) are okay. If you have already glassed the top side of the canopy, you could still change the cut line. On page 9, Fig. 51, Dennis suggested connecting the two 2.5" long pads together (to give you more leeway in locating the screws) and changing the A-A section from 1.6" wide to 2.0" wide. Thanks, Dennis. Nat From: FLYCOZYRIC@aol.com Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 16:34:40 EST Subject: COZY: SC Aero Canopy If there are any builders in Europe who have used the SC Aero (France) canopy and turtle back I would be interested to here from them. I am undecided as to which will be best to use. Has anyone tried to hinge one at the side? (It is designed for front hinging) Richard Goodwin Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:21:18 -0500 From: bil kleb Subject: COZY: Raising canopy height? some (now) anonymous sole wrote (privately): > > From your Cozy site it looks like your making good progress. was. i am trying to finish up an educational commitment at the moment, and the project has been on hold for a few months... :( > I started my Cozy project at the start of this year and its going > well and its turning out to be fun. excellent news! > One question has been lurking though that I thought you may be able > to shed some light on. i'll give it a shot.. and share it with the group, since i think you'll get a more rounded response that way :) > In your opinion what would be the best way to increase the canopy > height? i spoke with nat about this. he told me to speak with vance atkinson about this. vance recommended that raising everything from the nose, aft was the best way to go. otherwise you end up with longitudinal discontinuities, i.e., a break in the smooth-flowing lines at, say, the rear fuselage and the engine cowl... i think that this topic would be a good topic for vance's column in nat's newsletter... whadda 'ya think boys? > Raise the front (around 1.5") and taper it back to the firewall? no (for esthetic reasons named above), although some have done it this way i believe... > Does Jeff's turtleback offer this additional headroom i don't believe it does, but he would be _much_ better suited to answer this question... > and does it taper down to the existing height of the Cozy firewall? again, i don't think so. (and again, you'd have to ask jeff to be sure.) > While nor overly tall at 6'-1", a taller (and maybe slightly wider above > the upper longerons) canopy for the front seat is desired. i think carl d used a lancair canopy to get a "wider" canopy. i believe jeff's is also wider, but again, you'd have to check. (and if you do, please forward the answer...) > Any help would be appreciated. i made the firewall 1-1/2" taller in anticipation of the headroom mod. i believe phillip j(?) made his 2" taller. i believe people simply put extra blocking under the canopy/turtle back to raise that assembly, and then just add foam to the nose to fair that into the rest... i believe that the cowls are just trimmed less to match the taller firewall, but i really can't say since i have not _experienced_ it yet. hopefully others will share their experiences... -- bil Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:17:20 -0600 From: Tom Brusehaver Subject: Re: COZY: Raising canopy height? >> While nor overly tall at 6'-1", a taller (and maybe slightly wider above >> the upper longerons) canopy for the front seat is desired. ... >i made the firewall 1-1/2" taller in anticipation of the headroom mod. >i believe phillip j(?) made his 2" taller. i believe people >simply put extra blocking under the canopy/turtle back to raise that >assembly, and then just add foam to the nose to fair that into the rest... >i believe that the cowls are just trimmed less to match the taller >firewall, but i really can't say since i have not _experienced_ it yet. >hopefully others will share their experiences... I also am about 6'-1". I have sat in my tub a bunch this fall (too cold to do real work :-). I think unless you want LOTS of padding, you'll fit just fine. I am hoping to put 2" of foam under my butt just for a better view over the panel. My shoulders are about right at the longerons, and so my head is all that sticks up above them, of course with padding, it'll move that much higher. If you want more head room for the back seaters, you might want a taller firewall. You ain't gonna want to put big people in the back seat anyway (maybe 1). From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: Re: COZY: Raising canopy height? Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 10:12:12 -0600 Cozy builders, ok How's comments are right on. The Mark IV turtleback was designed so that there is a slight break in the curvature where it meets the engine cowling. Also, the is a slight break in curvature where the bubble canopy meets the turtle back (we fill this in to smoothe out the curvature). The net result is that if a 6'6" builder (like Jeb Butler) wants to have more head room, he just raises the front end of the turtle back. This actually smoothes out the curvature where the bubble meets the turtleback and where the turtleback meets the cowling. No reason for average size people to do this however. Just one of those nice options when you build from plans. Because we are short people, we built our 3-place prototype a little shallower than the Long EZ, but on our plans models we have to sit on extra cushions. Regards, Nat ---------- > From: ok How > To: cozy_builders@canard.com > Subject: Re: COZY: Raising canopy height? > Date: Monday, November 16, 1998 11:10 AM > > I'm 6'2" and did not need to change canopy height( may have short torso, > long legs). However, while building plane I took notice of how I should > accomplish more head clearance. There are many paths you can take, but > some have unexpected challenges... repurcussions. > If you have a head clearance issue, the key is to modify the turtleback > fixture. All you need do is either increase the height of the forward > ribs in the jig, or increase the width of the forward ribs of the jig. > The rearmost rib should stay at plans dimensions, as it forms the > firewall and you need no changes in that area (even if you have very tall > passengers). The plexiglass portion of the canopy has a good deal of > surplus material that will accomodate any height or width changes. > Changes will be cosmetically insignificant and have no repucussions on > further building. I think you will gain as much head clearance from a 1" > height mod as you would from a 1.5" width mod. This because head > interference is more at the side than the top. > So..... build the rib for the firewall end of the turtleback jig per > plans. Build your modified rib for the front of the turtleback jig (by > adding 1" to rib height or 1.5" to rib width). Use straight edge between > these two ribs to determine how much to mod the other turtleback ribs. > I'm confident this is the best way to mod canopy clearance, but like I > said, I didn't need to. Hope this helps. > > Make sure you read archives when building turtleback and canopy. I > consider this portion of plans one of the weakest areas ... lot of > potential pitfalls. > > > -al wick > 86% comp. Cozy MkIV sn 389 with stock Subaru 2.5 engine. Computerized > cockpit. > Done building components. Expect completion date 4-30-99. > > On Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:21:18 -0500 bil kleb > writes: > >about this. vance recommended that raising everything from the > >nose, aft was the best way to go. otherwise you end up with > longitudinal > >discontinuities, i.e., a break in the smooth-flowing lines at, say, > >the rear fuselage and the engine cowl... > > >> While nor overly tall at 6'-1", a taller (and maybe slightly wider > above > >> the upper longerons) canopy for the front seat is desired. > > >i made the firewall 1-1/2" taller in anticipation of the headroom mod. > >i believe phillip j(?) made his 2" taller. i believe people > >simply put extra blocking under the canopy/turtle back to raise that > >assembly, and then just add foam to the nose to fair that into the > rest... > >i believe that the cowls are just trimmed less to match the taller > >firewall, but i really can't say since i have not _experienced_ it yet. > >hopefully others will share their experiences... > > ___________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] From: cozy623@juno.com Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:55:40 -0700 Subject: Re: COZY: Raising canopy height? I am 6'5" and with minimal padding I fit fine in Nat's plane. Gene Davis moved his canopy up an inch and I fit in his with his 3" pads in place. Jeb From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 11:20:54 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Raising canopy height? Was said No, Airplane Plastics made one from their Waterbug (an egg shaped pedal watercraft) jig out of 1/4" plexiglass. The final thickness is 1/8". The canopy is quite a bit longer in circumference where it meets the turtleback. The Cosy Classic canopy is tighter radius at the top corners (headset room) in addition to about the same front seat width as the MKIV. The Classic tutleback actually meets the strakes about 4" each side of the longerons at the firewall. The longerons at that point are the same width as the MKIII, since it uses the Long-ez engine mount. Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 08:49:51 -0500 From: bil kleb Subject: Re: COZY: Raising canopy height? cozy623@juno.com (aka jeb) wrote: > > I am 6'5" and with minimal padding I fit fine in Nat's plane. Gene Davis > moved his canopy up an inch and I fit in his with his 3" pads in place. was this test done while flying, looking for traffic quartering your stern with headsets on? (it seems that hitting the sides of the canopy with your headsets is more of an issue than mere "top" clearance...) -- bil From: cozy623@juno.com Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 19:17:30 -0700 Subject: Re: COZY: Raising canopy height? No. I have not flown in these or any other cozys yet :(. I was thinking about it today and with a headset on I think it would be nice to have a little more room. I should also say that while I am 6'5" I think my sitting height isn't all that ridiculous. My legs are crazy! I moved my seat back 1" and the rudder pedals will be moved forward at least an inch. Nat and I figured that would do it from goofing around in his plane. If you raise the canopy by the method that was described by ? (raise the front of the turtleback) it is easy and does not have ramifications down the line. I will probably raise mine an inch or inch. In flight with a headset and not as much padding, I think the Davis' airplane would be very roomy for me. And I am fairly sure he told me that he had raised his an inch. Jeb