Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 10:33:18 -0600 From: Darren DeLoach Subject: COZY: Fuel selector valve I have about 1 more hour of work left on chapter 5 (wing spar cutouts)... whew! Chapter 6 recommends purchasing the fuel selector valve now so that as you build the keel/brace you'll be able to verify your valve fits correctly. I vaguely recall the plans-specified valve being around $27 or so, and that some folks are going for the $150 Andair valve. 1. Is the plans valve the one which "freezes" on some Long EZs? 2. Are there alternatives to these two which don't cost $150?!? 3. Is there any reason to NOT choose the $27 valve? -- Darren DeLoach http://www.deloach.com Almost done with Chap. 5 From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Fuel selector valve (fwd) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 12:04:35 EST Darren DeLoach writes; >Chapter 6 recommends purchasing the fuel selector valve now so that as you >build the keel/brace you'll be able to verify your valve fits correctly. I >vaguely recall the plans-specified valve being around $27 or so, and that >some folks are going for the $150 Andair valve. > >1. Is the plans valve the one which "freezes" on some Long EZs? Yes. It's the standard "Weatherhead" valve. >2. Are there alternatives to these two which don't cost $150?!? Not much less, that I could find. That was my reaction, too, but I guess you get what you pay for :-). I originally purchased the plans valve, and then recently purchased a valve (don't remember the name, but it's listed as a drop in replacement for the L.E./COZY valve in the A.S.S. and/or Wicks catalogs) for about $125. The "Andair" looked very nice, but I wanted one that would drop right in with the same mounting hardware. The one I picked is all aluminum, and claims not to have the same "freeze-up" problem. We'll see...... >3. Is there any reason to NOT choose the $27 valve? If you're willing to take it apart (after draining the fuel from your tanks so you don't get gas all over your interior :-) ) every couple of years and grease it with the special fuel resistant grease, probably not. If you want to install it and forget it, I think you need to pick something else. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com From: Epplin John A Subject: RE: COZY: Fuel selector valve (fwd) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 11:27:43 -0600 > -----Original Message----- > From: Marc J. Zeitlin [SMTP:marcz@hpwarhw.an.hp.com] > Sent: Monday, January 12, 1998 11:05 AM > To: cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com > Subject: COZY: Fuel selector valve (fwd) > > Darren DeLoach writes; > > >Chapter 6 recommends purchasing the fuel selector valve now so that > as you > >build the keel/brace you'll be able to verify your valve fits > correctly. I > >vaguely recall the plans-specified valve being around $27 or so, and > that > >some folks are going for the $150 Andair valve. > > > >1. Is the plans valve the one which "freezes" on some Long EZs? > > Yes. It's the standard "Weatherhead" valve. > > >2. Are there alternatives to these two which don't cost $150?!? > > Not much less, that I could find. That was my reaction, too, but I > guess > you get what you pay for :-). I originally purchased the plans valve, > and then recently purchased a valve (don't remember the name, but it's > listed as a drop in replacement for the L.E./COZY valve in the A.S.S. > and/or Wicks catalogs) for about $125. The "Andair" looked very nice, > but I wanted one that would drop right in with the same mounting > hardware. The one I picked is all aluminum, and claims not to have > the > same "freeze-up" problem. We'll see...... > > >3. Is there any reason to NOT choose the $27 valve? > > If you're willing to take it apart (after draining the fuel from your > tanks so you don't get gas all over your interior :-) ) every couple > of > years and grease it with the special fuel resistant grease, probably > not. > If you want to install it and forget it, I think you need to pick > something else. > > -- > Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com [Epplin John A] The Weatherhead valve is advertised as having a delrin seat. I have one and plan to use it. I had a pickup truck some years ago that had a similar valve, if fact it may have been the same, that I drove for over 10 years with absolutely no problem. The valve was used occasionally which would probably be worse than the regular use the Cozy would have. Just my .02 worth. Probably all it is worth. John epplin Mk4 #467 From: Shannon & Cheryl Kruse Subject: COZY: Chap 6 fuel valve Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 16:25:54 -0600 I have been lurking on this list for about two years.... but, today I found that I can answer a question. I had the same question about the fuel valve after reading all of the posting in the archives. So... I wrote to Nat and received this answer: The Varieze and Long EZ originally used the Imperial fuel valve which had a brass plug in a brass body. This was prone to sticking. We switched to the Weatherhead valve which has a delrin plug inside a brass body, and is less prone to sticking. It was later suggested that the Allen valve, which is much more expensive, would be more reliable. I obtained a copy of the FAA's analysis of all fuel valve related accidents, and discovered that there weren't very many, but as many on the Allen as on the Weatherhead, which wasn't identified by name, only as a valve with a plastic plug. I haven't seen any justification for requiring builders to spend more money, and I have used the Weatherhead and still use it in my airplane. Nevertheless.... I purchased the Weatherhead. Shannon Kruse Mark IV #469 Chap 6 kruse52@softdisk.com Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 08:12:44 -0500 From: David Domeier Subject: Re: COZY: Fuel selector valve Darren, I have the plans built valve installed for over 2 years and it still works smooth and easy. dd From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Chap 6 fuel valve (fwd) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 98 9:11:52 EST Shannon Kruse; >I have been lurking on this list for about two years.... but, today I found >that I can answer a question. You've got me beat :-). >......... I haven't >seen any justification for requiring builders to spend more money, and I >have used the Weatherhead and still use it in my airplane. I stand corrected (and short $125 :-) ). Thanks. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com From: SWrightFLY Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 10:24:07 EST Subject: Re: Re: COZY: Fuel selector valve I am using the $50.00 fuel shut valve (part #F521B-6) made by fuel injection Engineering Co. in Laguna Niguel, Ca. phone 714-582-1170. Herb Sanders used one in his Long-EZ and loved it. It's very light and precision made and has very smooth operation. You need to use the central sump designed by Vance Adkinson. Using this valve with the central sump prevents fuel mismanagement (see CSA newsletter) With this system your fuel is either on or off. I would like to hear arguments against this system. Why have more than one tank???? Steve Wright Wright Aircraft Works LLC From: Jim Hocut Subject: Fuel System (was COZY: Fuel selector valve) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 07:42:37 -0800 >...You need to use the central sump designed by Vance >Adkinson. Using this valve with the central sump prevents fuel mismanagement >(see CSA newsletter) With this system your fuel is either on or off. I would >like to hear arguments against this system. Why have more than one tank???? Has Vance's fuel system been written up in CSA or elsewhere? If so which issue? Thanks, Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:54:08 -0800 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Subject: COZY: Re: Fuel selector valve Hi Steve and All, >SWrightFLY wrote:< >Using this valve with the central sump prevents fuel mismanagement (see CSA newsletter). With this system your fuel is either on or off. I would like to hear arguments against this system. Why have more than one tank????< Bird strikes. A hole in one of the strakes would siphon the fuel out of both tanks, but what are the odds of a bird strike (or hole) occurring. Besides, with a simple one way flapper check valve that only allows fuel into the sump, a hole in one strake would not be that big of a concern of emptying the intact tank. So basically, no argument against :-). With a 3 way valve, one could have ON/OFF/and Reserve. Infinity's Forever, JD Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:36:15 -0600 From: Darren DeLoach Subject: COZY: Chap 6, F28 Location Although several folks spoke of issues surround the 5.9" location of F28 last week, I was still left with the basic question: Should I consider installing F28 at, say, 6.1" instead of 5.9" to allow for the .2" several folks mentioned being a problem while installing their canards (Jeff R even said he uses 6.25"). Is there any negative effect of having F28 0.2" further back in case I also have a problem fitting the canard in? Or should I stick to 5.9" and trim/shim as Nat and others have done? -- Darren DeLoach http://www.deloach.com Chap. 6 From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Chap 6, F28 Location (fwd) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 98 11:37:53 EST Darren DeLoach writes: >Is there any negative effect of having F28 0.2" further back in case I also >have a problem fitting the canard in? Or should I stick to 5.9" and >trim/shim as Nat and others have done? Moving F28 back 1/4" should have no deleterious effects. You'll end up with a fuselage front (the removable part in front of the canopy) that's 1/4" shorter (no big deal) and the lip from the canard will have to be 1/4" longer to cover (also no big deal). As long as you've got the canard locating pins in the longerons in the right place, you'll be OK. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 09:40:51 -0600 From: Darren DeLoach Subject: COZY: It's gonna be an airplane! (Ch. 6) Finally! Floxed the fuselage together yesterday (F22, Inst Panel, Fr. Seatback) to get an actual, bona fide three dimensional "something"! All the parts actually fit together, I'm happy to report (hey, I'm no craftsman and until this moment the whole thing was pretty abstract, building a bunch of isolated flat components). Amazingly, the whole thing was within 0.2 - 0.3 degrees level without shimming, so getting it down to 0.0 to 0.1 degrees with shims was pretty easy (I was greatly worried about this before now), thanks to the SmartTool level. I used the "long threaded rod" method shown in one of the newsletters some time back to clamp the sides together as I have no helpers and I thought it might be easier to do it this way with only one person; it was easy and worked well (and made it easy to control the amount of tension), though in retrospect I suspect it would have been just as easy and effective to use the "twisted rope" method seen in the plans. The two rods were cheap, though, so no great loss. Finally putting an end to months of vague fears about whether or not I had made everything properly, measured correctly, etc. has greatly relieved me, as you can imagine, and having something starting to look sort of like an airplane has rejuvenated me for the work. Gee, only about five years to go... Thanks to everyone who's helped me this far! -- Darren DeLoach http://www.deloach.com Chap. 6 From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com Date: Mon, 26 Jan 98 11:43:32 -0600 Subject: Re: COZY: It's gonna be an airplane! (Ch. 6) Darren DeLoach wrote: >snip Congratulations!!!!! >I used the "long threaded rod" method shown in one of the newsletters some >time back to clamp the sides together as I have no helpers and I thought >it might be easier to do it this way with only one person; it was easy and >worked well (and made it easy to control the amount of tension), though in >retrospect I suspect it would have been just as easy and effective to use >the "twisted rope" method seen in the plans. The two rods were cheap, >though, so no great loss. Just FYI: I used bunjie cords with some eyelets on the boards. It worked well too. >snip Wait till you put the bottom on.... :-) Larry Schuler lschuler@cellular.uscc.com From: SBLANKDDS Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 21:29:55 EST Subject: Re: COZY: It's gonna be an airplane! (Ch. 6) << Wait till you put the bottom on.... :-) >> Multiple bags of fertrilizer, convieniently located in my garage worked well as weights for the bottom connection to the sides!!! The lawn looks a little anemic??? Steve Blank....keep having fun... Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 10:34:57 -0600 From: Darren DeLoach Subject: COZY: Fuel valve bracket warning-- Wicks Knowing how much trouble others have had making the bracket (three tries seems to be typical from the archives), I assumed I would also have trouble and in my Wicks order bought 4 of the 2024 scraps they sell for the purpose. Of the 4, only 2 have the grain running in the proper direction to correctly make the 90 degree bend! So I'll really only get two good tries, not the four I'd planned on. My suggestion would be to order a larger sheet rather than multiple small scraps so that you'll get plenty of sheet grain in both directions, then cut out the portion(s) you need (hopefully only one!). Perhaps you can specify to Wicks a particular grain direction, but since the part number was spec'd for the Cozy it never occurred to me to ask, I assumed the scrap would be appropriate for the part. Oh, well... -- Darren DeLoach http://www.deloach.com Chap. 6 Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 09:06:52 -0600 From: Darren DeLoach Subject: COZY: Ch. 6: Another fuel valve bracket technique My first attempt at this part cracked during the first bend (as usual for this part, based on the archives). I had cut it out, drilled my holes, smoothed the edges, heated it, and bent it over a 1/4" radiused piece of plywood while clamped in a vise. It cracked at the inside curve of one of the tabs which stick out. AC 43.13 says the proper radius for 2024-T3 is 3t to 5t, or in this case 3/16 to 5/16, with an asterisk on the 3t suggesting that this is the minimum possible under what amounted to ideal conditions (i.e. not my garage). In thinking about where and how it cracked, and all the literature on stress point concentrations on places like the curve of the tab, it occurred to me that if I bent it first (just a rectangular piece of sheet, no tabs and thus no inside curves) I wouldn't have split the part. So my second attempt last night was to take the raw sheet as shipped from Wicks, clamp it in the vise (between two pieces of wood), clamp a 9/32" (slightly over 4t radius) drill bit against it, then bend it over the drill bit. Worked like a charm, both bends were easily made with no cracking at all (didn't even have to heat the piece up). Then I taped the template over my now squared-U-shaped piece, drilled the holes (draping the piece over a spare chunk of wood), used a combination of band saw and Dremel with grinding wheel to shape the tabs and cut down to final shape. Everything worked great, no problems at all, no special precautions required except that you'll take a little more time clamping the bent piece to drill your holes. So, the idea of bending BEFORE you have points of stress concentration seemed to work out fine, and the cutting to shape really wasn't any harder with the bent piece than it was with the flat piece, at least if you're using a band saw. Hope this helps someone else... -- Darren DeLoach http://www.deloach.com Chap. 6 Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 18:21:22 -0500 From: Darren DeLoach Subject: COZY: Chap 6: My experience with the fuselage bottom This note is just to add my own experience to the list of "how I did my fuselage bottom" to the archives. I decided beforehand to do the entire mess per plans in one long nasty day, rather than breaking it up into two or three days, on the theory that 1. it was a long holiday weekend and I wanted to start chapter 7 the same weekend, and 2. why drag it out... I'd been working towards this day for some time, and I was ready to see a bottom on my bird! I got a friend from work for the basic layup, plus my wife helped for about an hour. It took about 4.5 hours to do the layup (neither of the helpers were particularly experienced). I ran out of BID at the very end... thank god for keeping scraps, I had enough to finish the layup but not enough to do the BID tapes within the 12 hour period. Arghhh!! I peel-plyed every bond area to avoid too much sanding, then got on the phone and called Ken Reiter from Plano and Mike Anderson from Allen, hoping to borrow some BID to do the taping. Got answering machines in both cases, went to a very late lunch. By the time I got back, Mike had called and left a message that he had plenty to spare, come on down! It was an hour drive each way, plus the requisite ogling of his project and trading stories of the latest tool finds, but even so I got back before my 12 hours had elapsed. I hope you all are lucky enough to have another builder nearby, for occasions like this!! I hurriedly floxed the bottom on with my wife's help, then she drew out and cut the BID tapes, I laid them up on plastic sheet, then crawled underneath and using a stool proceeded to do the taping. Within the 12 hours I got about half the taping completed, I did a few more with some minor sanding (I had peel plyed everything). Finally gave up at 3:30 am, after 11 total hours work over the course of the day. I finished up the tapes Monday, but I had left the easy-to-get-to ones for last so it was no big deal. Incidentally, sitting on a stool with the work at a pleasant height (the fuselage was on sawhorses) wasn't bad; in fact, I think it's nicer than bending over the side to do them as I had for the bulkheads to the sides. My wife handed me the pre-wetted out strips as I needed them, so no constant crawling out to get the next one. All ya need is a worklight. -- Darren DeLoach http://www.deloach.com Chap. 7 From: "Neal Newman" Subject: Re: COZY: [Tools] Riveting Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1998 13:03:25 -0400 Hi All... HELP... I ran into a small snag.. I didnt have this problem when Building the 3 place.. Today as I was floxing in the bottom half of the firewall to the back of my Cozy Tub.. I noticed I forgot to cutout the 2 holes for the Electrical channel.. Now the problem.... I located the 4 corners of each of the channels using a small drill bit. what I found is that the Electrical channel On each side is Directly in line with one Bolt of the Pulley brackets that( you know the 4 bolts floxed in chapter 4...) with the Tub Upside down.. its the Outer Top bolt on each side.. How critical is this..????? and how do I fix it????? Or can I get away with only 3 bolts on each pulley??????? NAT..... Anyone H E L P.... Has Anyone Else Done this stupid thing?????? Neal Newman Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 22:20:01 -0400 From: siegler@charm.net (Stuart Siegler) Subject: COZY: F22 Question When installing The F22, is it both veritical and perpendicular to the fuseloge side? Also, When removing foam on the inside walls of the tub, Since the F22 has the doubler (on the top), do we remove the ~1/2" all around the tub, or 1/2" at the top (four or so inches), and then make a 1/4" cut, 1/4 inches aft (of the forward tub)? Is the F28 (going to be) the Same? I could make this more complicated, but only if I was juggling. ;-) Thanks! Stuart P.S. It was great *finally* meeting some of you at Oshkosh! -- Stuart Siegler siegler@charm.net http://www.charm.net/~siegler/ ... and we're gonna keep on having meetings 'till we find out why nothing's getting done here. Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 22:56:41 -0400 From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" Subject: Fwd: COZY: F22 Question Stuart Siegler writes; >When installing The F22, is it both veritical and perpendicular to the fuseloge side? Vertical, yes. Perpendicular to the side, no. Perpendicular to the fuselage CENTERLINE, yes. The sides are NOT parallel - they curve inward, so the bulkheads are NOT perpendicular to them. >Also, When removing foam on the inside walls of the tub, Since the F22 >has the doubler (on the top), do we remove the ~1/2" all around the tub, or >1/2" at the top (four or so inches), and then make a 1/4" cut, 1/4 inches aft (of the >forward tub)? I'm not following what you're asking here re: F22 or F28 - I couldn't find any reference in chapter 6 to removing 1/2" of foam..... F22 butts up against the forward face of the fuselage sides - it doesn't go in between them. F28 goes in between the sides and the longerons, but the important thing is to have the sides the correct distance apart. You can fill the space between F28 and the sides with flox (if there is any [space, not flox] :-) ). -- Marc J. Zeitlin                     marcz@burnside.ma.ultranet.com 3 Sweetbriar Way                  http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz Acton, MA  01720                 http://cozy.canard.com/ From: Cozy7971@aol.com Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 22:57:39 EDT Subject: Re: COZY: F22 Question In a message dated 98-08-07 22:28:11 EDT, siegler@charm.net writes: << When installing The F22, is it both veritical and perpendicular to the fuseloge side? >> F22 is vertical and perpendicular to the centerline. This is a fairly easy operation but accuracy here will save a ton of grief later. Lay out a centerline and assure that all bulkheads are perpendicular. Measure from the centerline to the longerons on the top and bottom of each bulkhead to assure that the measurements are equal. Assure that the top longerons are level. Measure the diagonals from the firewall to each bulkhead to assure that everything is square. After you are sure that things are square and level, walk away and come back the next day and recheck before floxing everything together. I got a bit obsessive about this and came to be grateful later. My fuselage is a square as I could get it. This made it relatively easy to relevel at later points during construction. Thanks to some extra care at this step my other parts are fitting nicely. Dick Finn Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 13:55:29 +0200 From: Jannie Versfeld Subject: Re: COZY: F22 Question Stuart Siegler wrote: > > When installing The F22, is it both veritical and perpendicular to the fuseloge > side? > > Also, When removing foam on the inside walls of the tub, Since the F22 > has the doubler (on the top), do we remove the ~1/2" all around the tub, or > 1/2" at the top (four or so inches), and then make a 1/4" cut, 1/4 inches aft (of the > forward tub)? > > Is the F28 (going to be) the Same? > > I could make this more complicated, but only if I was juggling. ;-) > > Thanks! > > Stuart > > P.S. It was great *finally* meeting some of you at Oshkosh! > > -- > Stuart Siegler > siegler@charm.net > http://www.charm.net/~siegler/ > > ... and we're gonna keep on having meetings 'till we find out why nothing's getting done here. F22 has a doubler that is 3/8" smaller cross-wise than the f22 bulkhead. Since the f22 bulkhead buts up against the forward face of the fuselage sides. the doubler fits inside between the sides. Jannie Verfseld #673 completed chapt 7 From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com Date: Mon, 10 Aug 98 09:45:49 -0600 Subject: Re: COZY: F22 Question Stuart Siegler wrote: >When installing The F22, is it both veritical and perpendicular to the fuseloge >side? F22 needs to be horizontally perpendicular to the center line and vertically perpendicular to the top longerons (which MUST be level). >Also, When removing foam on the inside walls of the tub, Since the F22 >has the doubler (on the top), do we remove the ~1/2" all around the tub, or >1/2" at the top (four or so inches), and then make a 1/4" cut, 1/4 inches aft >(of the forward tub)? Not sure what you are saying here about removing foam. You do need to trim the front of the sides (while still in the inside layup jigs) to make the length correct and the edges perpendicular to the work table. This perpendicular edge will ensire a good fit with F22. Same edge (perpendicular to the table while in the jigs) needs to be at the firewall end for same reason. F22 is mounted flush on the forward face of the fuselage sides, NOT inside. The outside edges of the fuselage sides will be flush with the outside edges of F22. >Is the F28 (going to be) the Same? F28 fits INSIDE the longerons/doublers. When you do the BID tapies on F28, only do the rear side. The the longerons and doublers in front of F28 will be trimmed flush with the face of F28 later after the outside of the tub is glassed. Hope that helps. Larry Schuler MK-IV plans #500 From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 21:39:31 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Allen Fuel Valve On 08/12/98 21:43:09 you wrote: > >For some time now, I've read reports that the Weatherhead fuel valve called >for in the plans can have some problems in later life. I've seen the Allen >Valve recommended and the Aircraft Spruce Catalog lists it as "a drop-in >replacement for the Weatherhead valve." I ordered one... > >Now, if someone can just tell me how to "drop it in" as it bears no >resemblance to the Weatherhead valve. Has anyone out there done this? > > Gregg Perry > > > Yes I have one in my COSY for 4.6 years, its just fine. It goes in the same location as the plans valve. You will need to make a different shaped bracket, same material and idea as the plans. Verify that the inlets and outlets are connected correctly (I think, but not sure there are several variations available with different port locations and valve positions). There are several tapped holes (10-32 or 8-32) to anchor to the bracket. My handle pointer positions are: Off-left, right- right tank, down-left tank. Hope this helps, I don't have a template of the bent alum. piece. From: "Paul Comte" Subject: Fw: COZY: Question chapter 6 Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:56:38 -0500 My plans #0246, Chapter 2 Page 3, read "(1) pc. 3/8" OD x .065w x 6" 6061-T6 tube Best Regards, Paul Comte -----Original Message----- From: o.muccilli To: Cozy builders Date: Thursday, August 13, 1998 11:47 AM Subject: COZY: Question chapter 6 >Hi all builders, >I have a little problem, in the chapter 6, page 5 Mr. Nat write: After cure, >remove foam for the 2 in. long safety belt tube, and flox the tube in place. >Which safety belt tube? There is not in the list of material and in the >safety belt package. > >Thanks in advance for help > >Oreste Muccilli >Italy >chapter 6 > >e-mail o.muccilli@net-point.it >web site: http://home.intekom.com/glen/italy.htm > > > Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 12:58:11 -0400 From: bil kleb Subject: Re: COZY: Question chapter 6 o.muccilli wrote: > > I have a little problem, in the chapter 6, page 5 Mr. Nat write: After cure, > remove foam for the 2 in. long safety belt tube, and flox the tube in place. > Which safety belt tube? it comes from your 3/8" dia 0.065" wall 2024 AL tube. figure 20 calls for two pieces, 2" long. one is for the landing brake lever hinge point and the other is for the center seatbelt attach point. (although this is not specifically stated until you do the back seat area, see chapter 8, step 7, p 3.) -- bil Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 13:15:16 -0700 From: michael amick Subject: Re: COZY: Question chapter 6 o.muccilli wrote: > I have a little problem,... Which safety belt tube? There is not in the list of material and in the safety belt package.> The part is listed under the chapter 6 listing in Chapter 2 Page 3 "Material List by Chapter (Section 1)" Metal: 1 pc 3/8" OD x .65w x 6" 6061-T6 tube (Wicks sent me a 12" piece) you cut off a 2" long piece for both the front and back hot air ducts to be used as the center attach fitting for the lap(waist)seat belts. Regards Michael Amick MKIV Plans 317 From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: Re: COZY: Allen Fuel Valve Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 08:44:00 -0000 Dear Cozy Builders, Several years ago when the Allen valve was highly touted, I asked for and received a computer history of all accidents due to fuel valve failures. As I recall, it was the Imperial valve (brass body and brass plug) that had a reputation for sticking. The Weatherhead (brass body and delrin plug) had only one incidence. The Allen also had one incidence. So I decided there was no justification for requiring builders to spend a lot more money on a valve that, statistically, was no better than the one recommended in the plans. We have a Weatherhead valve in our plans model and it has caused no problems to date. Regards, Nat ---------- > From: gperry@usit.com > To: cozy_builders@canard.com > Subject: COZY: Allen Fuel Valve > Date: Thursday, August 13, 1998 1:43 AM > > For some time now, I've read reports that the Weatherhead fuel valve called > for in the plans can have some problems in later life. I've seen the Allen > Valve recommended and the Aircraft Spruce Catalog lists it as "a drop-in > replacement for the Weatherhead valve." I ordered one... > > Now, if someone can just tell me how to "drop it in" as it bears no > resemblance to the Weatherhead valve. Has anyone out there done this? > > Gregg Perry > Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 19:48:34 -0500 From: Mike Davis Subject: COZY: fuel valve One of my self imposed jobs for the day was to plumb the fuel lines from the sumps, through the selector valve and aft past the seat back brace. During this process I realized that the connection to the back of the valve was omitted untill today. So guess what,,,,, the fuel valve has to come out. YUK! I'm not a surgeon but I'm getting pretty darn good with the dremel. My unsolicited advice to those of you who have yet to install the valve is: 1) Make provisions to remove the valve one day. There is not enough clearance per plans to get it out. 2) When you initially install the valve make the connection on the aft end. ( the port going to the carb. ) 3) On the Weatherhead valve, install the plug per plans and safety wire it. The intent here is to save some work for you at a later date. Mike Cozy N141MD (flying) Cozy 7EJ ( nearing structural completion ) From: "L. Wayne Hicks" Subject: COZY: Finished Chapter 6 Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 11:16:31 -0400 Marc: Please update my status as "Chapter 7". After gallivanting all over the country on business travel and losing a week due to a hurricane, I was finally able to complete Chapter 6. My hours total was 84. I followed the plans exactly except for these things: 1. I jigged and assembled the fuselage upside-down. What I did was remove my work table from its stand and placed it on the floor. I bought a Smart-Level (a must-have tool) and used shims to level the table. I then drew a centerline and the marked the position of the bulkhead stations down the longitudinal axis. I next used a square to draw the perpendicular reference marks for the bulkheads. What about the IP, which extends above the upper longerons??? My worktable is made up from two solid core doors screwed to two 10-foot, 8-inch wide rafter beams. By spreading the two doors apart by 5 inches at the IP location, this created a convenient hole for the IP to protrude through. By jigging upside down, I was able to guarantee level longerons without constant measuring. In fact, the fuselage sides, when set upside down on their upper longerons, would sit there by themselves without needing twenty-millions hands. Prior to each work session, I would take my smart level and ensure the table was still level. I put two screws at the very front of the upper longerons and screwed the fake firewall to the table's edge at the aft end. In this manner I could stabilize everything and ensure everything remained perfectly square. I also put two wooden blocks on the reference line for the seatback. It was a simple and very reassuring to be able to walk around with a square and spot-check things to ensure all bulkheads, centerlines, and perpendiculars were where they needed to be. Sounds like it takes extra work to do this, but I guarantee it was faster and simpler than jigging upright. 2. I used bolts instead of the screws for the firewall blind screw attachments for the rudder cables. I know many of you have successfully completed your planes without having these screw turning on you later in Chapter 16(?) when you go to install the rudder pulleys. But while I was there, I simply used a small chisel to chisel out a hex pattern for the bolt heads, then I safety wired the bolt heads together. I floxxed them in place and glassed over them. 3. Instead of using ropes, boards, and bungies to hold the sides to the bulkheads during fuselage assembly, I simply used dry-wall screws. What I did was after marking the bulkhead positions, I took a strip of masonite and held a strip against the outside fuselage foam as I drilled the locating holes (at four locations -- port ands starboard for the seatback and IP). After floxxing everything, I held the seatback and IP in place with dry-wall screws in the locating holes, using the masonite strips as huge "washers" against the exterior foam. This all worked neat for me, but I would only recommend using the dry-wall screws if all your bulkheads fit perfectly to your fuselage sides. As it turns out, there were absolutely no gaps between the bulkheads and the sides during trial fit, so I didn't have to overly squeeze the fuselage sides anywhere to take out any gaps. Even F22 fit right on the money. I don't credit the good fit to workmanship as much as I credit it to just staying on the lines as per the drawings. 4. During dry-fit, I was having a wee bit of a problem keeping the firewall perfectly square. Just as I set one corner, the other would move. So I put those ugly longeron pieces that extend through the firewall to good use. I took two 1-inch pine stringers and screwed them onto the longeron extensions so that the stringer spanned from one side to the other. Then I simply tapped in shims between the stringers and the outside face of the lower firewall at all four corners until the firewall was perfectly square. 5. I did not have enough stamina to finish BID-taping the bottom onto the fuselage. After glassing the bottom inside layups and waiting for tack cure, I floxxed, installed, crawled under, scraped and filleted the oozing flox. I finished sanding and BID-taping on the next consecutive nights. Those of you that did it all in one session, you're gods in my eyes. BTW, I really get a kick out of putting flox, 5-minute glue, micro, whatever into small sandwich bags, cutting off the corner tip, and then using it like a cake decorator for applying the stuff. This works incredibly well. It's faster and neater than applying with a stick. Also, prior to floxxing or BID-taping, I apply a very thin coat of epoxy. I have found that the flox and BID-tapes will stay in place much better. __________________________________________ L. Wayne Hicks SpaceTec, Inc. Sr. Engineer 3221 North Armistead Ave 757-865-0900 phone Hampton, VA 23666 757-865-8960 fax http://www.spacetec-inc.com Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 11:55:58 -0600 From: "Joseph H. Hart IV" Subject: COZY: BID Tape & LG Bulkhead Installation I have installed my LG Bulkheads and done the 3 UNI layup on the forward face of the forward LG Bulkhead. Now, do I tape both sides of the joint between the upper and lower forward LG Bulkhead? Do I tape both forward and aft sides where the bulkheads meet the fuselage sides? (I know from the archives that I tape at least the forward sides and assume that the aft sides get taped as well but it is better to ask questions than make mistakes!) Do I tape onto LWX or do I only tape where the bulkheads meet perpendicularly with the sides (as opposed to the flat mating where the upper forward LG Bulkhead meets LWX)? Also, in order to have my upper forward bulkhead be even with the top of LWX, there was a gap that started at 0" on the starboard side of the joint between the upper and lower bulkheads and gradually increased to approximately .25" or .375" on the port side. Apparently the bulkhead wasn't exactly square because the dimensions with the sides connected to the rest of the bulkheads (except the permanent firewall) are correct and everything is level/true, etc. I filled the gap with flox and, given the fact that the joint gets taped (even though I don't know if is taped on one or both sides!), I feel comfortable with the strength of the joint. Am I wrong or was this an acceptable solution to the problem/misalignment? As always, thanks in advance for your insights. -- Jody Hart New Orleans, LA Cozy Mark IV plans no. 648 Chapter 5, see latest progress at: home.gs.verio.net/~jodyhart/home.html N359JH (reserved) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 15:38:35 -0800 From: michael amick Subject: Re: COZY: BID Tape & LG Bulkhead Installation Joseph H. Hart IV wrote: > > I have installed my LG Bulkheads and done the 3 UNI layup on the > forward face of the forward LG Bulkhead. Now, do I tape both sides of > the joint between the upper and lower forward LG Bulkhead? Yes > Do I tape both forward and aft sides where the bulkheads meet the fuselage sides? Yes > (I know from the archives that I tape at least the forward sides and > assume that the aft sides get taped as well but it is better to ask > questions than make mistakes!) > Do I tape onto LWX .... Yes > or do I only tape where the bulkheads meet perpendicularly with the > sides (as opposed to the flat mating where the upper forward LG > Bulkhead meets LWX)? For now use only 2" wide bid tapes. Many more layups will follow in this area later on > ...I filled the gap with flox and, given the fact that the joint gets > taped (even though I don't know if is taped on one or both sides!), Both sides. > I feel comfortable with the strength of the joint. Am I wrong or was > this an acceptable solution to the problem/misalignment? Sounds good to me; after all it's your rear in the PIC seat. Michael Amick Beginning Chapter 7 Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 16:46:39 -0600 From: Tom Brusehaver Subject: Re: COZY: Seatback Brace/Fuel Valve >I've assembled my seatback brace (but haven't glassed the outside yet). >The plans say to cover the fuel valve with saran wrap because it should >remain removable. When I went to check the fit of the brace assembly to >the seatback, I noticed that there is no way that you could ever remove >the fuel valve after the brace is permanently installed given the size >of the cut-outs in the seatback that are specified. Should I make my >cut-out around the fuel valve larger? If you look ahead to where the fuel system is plumbed (chapter 21 I think) there are pictures of Nat's plane. The hole is obviously bigger than it was in chapters 4 and 6. I have mine out, I never put it in in chapter 6. I made the wood conform to the aluminium bracket, and the bracket is floxed in, the valve will fit in after I make the hole bigger. I figured it'd be easier to make the hole bigger to put the thing in, than to make it bigger to take it out. From: Don Bowen Subject: COZY: RE: Seatback Brace / Fuel Valve Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 16:04:06 -0700 Jody Hart wrote: Should I make my cut-out around the fuel valve larger? I ran into this same situation when installing the seatback brace on my Mk IV. I phoned Nat with this question and he advised enlarging the cutout area so that the valve could be removed for maintenance, etc. I am not trying to pin Nat down on anything here, just wanted to state that I did check with him on this before I deviated from the plans. I am at work now and cannot give you the exact dimensions of the cutout. Just make it large enough to allow the valve to pass through the seat back. I covered the bare foam on the seat back (around the enlarged cutout) with 1 ply BID. This was my own idea, not really per Nat's advice. Good luck with your project. Don Bowen Cozy Mk IV s/n 440 Chapter 9 From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 19:13:06 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: RE: Seatback Brace / Fuel Valve Some fuel valves require lubricating at regular (every annual or 2) intervals. From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1998 07:43:57 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Fuel Valve Lubricant On 12/22/98 20:56:10 you wrote: > >>Some fuel valves require lubricating at regular (every annual or 2) >intervals. >What kind of lubricant should be used? I have seen the plastic part inside >the fuel valve and it looks fairly fragile. I would definitely recommend >that it be lubricated whenever it is the least bit hard to turn. >Jim White >N44QT > > > I don't know, hopefully someone else will tell us. I have the Allen valve, they are local in the Cleveland, Oh. area. I'll try to find their recomendation for their valve. I understand the one the Piper Tomahawk requires periodic attention. From: Fritzx2@aol.com Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 23:04:24 EST Subject: Re: COZY: Chap. 6: Bottom/F22 Matchup Hi Jody, > At Chap. 6, p. 6, Step 3, it states that the 3/8" PVC should be "butted > against the forward bulkhead (F-22)[.]" Should the foam be curved to > match the bottom of F-22 as it extends beyond the longerons or should it > be flat and level with the longerons? The pictures seem to indicate > that F-22 does not extend beyond the PVC vertically; however, my > intuition tells me that the picture is misleading and I don't want to > make a mistake at this point! With just the 3/8" PVC foam on the fuse before you bondo the shape holding lattice boards and the 3/4" Clark, you want the 3/8" foam to lay flat on the bottom longerons with whatever portion of F22 protrudes above (with the fuse inverted for this step) as I think you suspected. Just make sure the 3/8" foam lies flat side to side which is what the 2 lattice boards in the front stretching side to side and same in the back are meant to do. After adding the Clark 3/4" foam doublers, you will want to slightly radius the front of the bottom as described in of Ch 6, pg 8 paragraph 4 and in Fig 33 so that the glass will bend around the front of the bottom. Looking ahead to Ch 7, pg 4, Step 4, paragraph 4, you will be sanding the outside of the bottom and sides 1/16" deep by 1" wide back from and including F22 for the overlap layup between the outside of the fuse aft of F22 and the outside of the nose of the fuse which is added later so there is no bump resulting from the skin 1" overlap. So, if your fuse bottom with Clark doublers and inside skin with flox joint to bottom longerons resulted in the ballpark of the bottom height level with F22 to protruding 1/16" further then F22, you should be just fine. John Fritz fritzx2@aol.com Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1998 22:44:57 +0000 From: Paul Kuntz Subject: Re: COZY: Seatback Brace/Fuel Valve Should I make my > cut-out around the fuel valve larger? > I have installed the Allen valve, and found it easy to cut an opening in the seat back that is large enough to remove and re-install the fuel valve with the seat back brace installed in the fuselage. The hole in the seat back is not all that big, and I sure wouldn't want to leave the valve installed while all the rest of the construction is going on around it, with the inevitable epoxy drips, fiberglass dust, etc. Paul Kuntz