Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 14:20:10 From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: COZY: Dremmel Tools >I think I've had it with Dremel tools. I got one of the new ones a while >back and it's dead already. I dropped it once and it quit. Took it apart >and got it going but they aren't very tough. The older ones seemed tougher. >Anyone tried any alternatives? How about Ryobi? >I got a Black & Decker Wizard at Walmart and it works great so far. Don't >know how long it will last. >For serious grinding I use a air powered die-grinder but still like to use >the smaller grinders. >Cliff I've had to hammer out solutions to this problem in several past manufacturing situations. By-in-large, I've found NONE of the hand-held electric tools are suitable for production tasks . . . they simply run too hot and/or wear out too fast. My most satisfactory solution was a high speed, 115 vac motor (I think we got them from Grainger) driving a flex shaft (industrial supply house or jeweler's supply) with a collett chuck on the end. The motors were good for typically 200 hours of brush life, and bearings were bad in about 6 months (1000 hrs?) and cost only $35 to replace. All the other stuff ran well for a long time. The plain vanilla speed controllers for hand tools work with these motors. Bob . . . AeroElectric Connection //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= | | | Go ahead, make my day . . . . | | Show me where I'm wrong. | ================================= by SERV05.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (PMDF V5.1-4 #16063) with SMTP id <01IDXSYHE2DY0017XA@SERV05.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Tue, 7 Jan 1997 16:54:21 PST Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 16:55:03 -0800 From: hrogers@SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Howard Rogers) Subject: COZY: Re: Drilling Holes in tubing >Many thanks for the great suggestions on drilling my centered holes. It >appears that the best solution will be to order the vee-blocks from Harbor >Freight. I'll do that as soon as I log off. Dick, while you are ordering, order a few machinist's "center drills", of assorted diameters. It is a drill bit with a fat body, that steps down to a small diameter at the very tip. It is used for starting a hole, in a situation like yours, where a regular drill bit would have a natural tendancy to flex and wander. No matter how well-centered your vee blocks hold the tubing, a flexible drill bit can undo your great precision. Howard Rogers, A&P 2005148 --Howard Rogers, 415-926-4052 hrogers@slac.stanford.edu Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 20:15:58 -0500 From: INFINITY Aerospace <72124.347@compuserve.com> Subject: COZY: Sucking Dust Hi Paul and All, >Paul Krasa wrote:< >Oh well, back to sucking micro dust.< DCM Clean-Air Products, Inc. make some really neat dust collecting shrouds for equipment that you can attach to sanding equipment that attach to a vacuum cleaner to suck up most all the sanding dust. I've watched them give demonstrations at the Sampe Convention (Oshkosh of composite technologies) sanding projects in their booth dressed in a suit - no mess. DCM Clean-Air Products, Inc. 6850 Manhattan Blvd., Suite 500 Fort Worth, TX 76120 (817) 654-2829 (817) 451-0615 FAX HTH. Infinity's Forever, JD Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 08:52:56 -0500 From: ponciroli@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Subject: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend Hello to all, I have a tip for new builders. The "Pro SMART Level" has made the job of leveling the tub, locating the correct incidence of the canard tips, setting the incidence of the canard, and many other applications very easy and fast. When you level anything you can get it to the tenth of a degree. The screen actually gives you a 0.0 degree accuracy. I recommend it for all builders. They can be purchased at any good hardware store. Posted-Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 09:22:27 -0500 (CDT) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 09:22:19 -0500 From: Darren DeLoach Subject: Re: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend >They can be purchased at any good hardware store. I saw Marc's note about this and have been looking around, but can't find one locally yet. If you don't mind, could you please post the name of the manufacturer, and a city or phone number if one is on the packaging so that I can call them to get the name of a local dealer? Thanks! -- Darren DeLoach Sales & Software http://www.deloach.com Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 13:01:21 -0500 From: tpierce@ghg.net (Terence J. Pierce) Subject: Re: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend ponciroli@postoffice.worldnet.att.net wrote: > > Hello to all, > > I have a tip for new builders. The "Pro SMART Level" has made the job of > leveling the tub, locating the correct incidence of the canard tips, > setting the incidence of the canard, and many other applications very easy > and fast. When you level anything you can get it to the tenth of a degree. > The screen actually gives you a 0.0 degree accuracy. I recommend it for all > builders. > > They can be purchased at any good hardware store. Can you recommend what size to use. I heard they come in different lenghts. Thanks, Terry Pierce Cozy Mark IV #600 From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Re: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend (fwd) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 97 22:38:49 EDT Don Ponciroli wrote: >> I have a tip for new builders. The "Pro SMART Level" ...... Terry Pierce asks: >Can you recommend what size to use. I heard they come in different >lenghts. I've got a 4 foot version. The fancy ones have a small module that fits into different length levels - then you can get a 1 foot and 4 foot level and swap the module. I got mine from A.S.S., but I've seen them in Home Depot, Somerville Lumber, and True Value hardware stores. I'm sure any decent size hardware store will carry them. They're pricey, but definitely worth it. Just make sure to calibrate it every once in a while. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 01:12:41 -0400 (EDT) From: Westlande@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend In a message dated 4/14/97 2:45:56 PM, tpierce@ghg.net (Terence J. Pierce) wrote: >Can you recommend what size to use. I heard they come in different >lengths. When I bought mine a few years back, I got the shortest one I could find, maybe 8 to 10 inches, only because it cost less than the longer ones. When I need a longer level, I just lay the short digital level on top of my regular 4' level. Works just fine and would alert me if one of them is off. My advice would be to save the extra money and apply it to the longest straight aluminum extrusion you can find, say 6 to 8 feet. I got mine at a local metal surplus yard, it was about $20. You'll be amazed at the uses you find for it. When your done glassing, you can cut it into smaller chunks and glue sandpaper to it for finishing. -eric Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 12:26:49 -0400 (EDT) From: DFinn7971@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend (fwd) In a message dated 97-04-15 08:55:31 EDT, marcz@hpwarhw.an.hp.com (Marc J. Zeitlin) writes: << I got mine from A.S.S., but I've seen them in Home Depot, Somerville Lumber, and True Value hardware stores. >> I got mine from Aircraft Tool out of Michigan on the last day of Oshkosh two years ago. They knocked off 5% for last day purchase and cash at my request. It has proven to be a great piece of equipment and I would recommend it to all. Dick Finn Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 13:48:39 -0400 From: william l kleb Organization: NASA Langley Research Center Subject: Re: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend (fwd) Mahan wrote: > > I placed my old-fashioned level on top of his to compare them. this is the key. > To my surprise, I found that moving the "smart level" > enough to trigger a 1/10th degree change was also enough > for me to see a shift in the bubble of my old fashioned level. sometime back, marc z made this same comment. > So ... what's the advantage? the advantage is in learning how to read your bubble level, and the level (or plum) alarm is _very_ nice when you can't see the level while working by yourself, i.e. you're lazy ;) oh, and one more thing: can your bubble level tell you when you have a +6.0 degree incline, or maybe a -75.6 decline? but then again, who ever wants to know such a thing? ;) so, if you can borrow someone's "smart" level for just long enough to learn how to read your bubble level, and you don't think the alarm feature is worth the >$80, then by all means, don't buy one! after my dewalt, cordless, clutched drill and my oscillating sabre saw, the "smart" level is my favorite tool. -- bil Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 12:53:40 -0700 From: Mahan Subject: Re: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend (fwd) May I play Devil's Advocate on the subject of "smart levels?" Several years ago, a friend of mine, Don, got a good-to-a-tenth-of-a-degree "smart level." I was ready to junk my four-foot bubble level, and was anxious to borrow his new level to try it out. Sure enough, it was extremely accurate. I placed my old-fashioned level on top of his to compare them. To my surprise, I found that moving the "smart level" enough to trigger a 1/10th degree change was also enough for me to see a shift in the bubble of my old fashioned level. So ... what's the advantage? I'd advise you to compare a smart level with a bubble level -- even in the store -- before you rush to buy one. Fred in Florida Long-EZ N86LE Defiant project From: Lee Devlin Subject: Re: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend (fwd) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 13:59:43 MDT I bought a SmartLevel a while ago but I still like my mahogany 4' bubble level as the most foolproof method to check for level. You may think that + or - .1 degree is extremely accurate, but over a 10' span that resolution translates to more than a .4 inch difference! (That's 10 mm over 3 meters for our international friends.) A while ago someone was making claims on this forum about a person comparing washout using a SmartLevel at Oshkosh just to see how close canard builders were holding washout to the plans specifications. The results were that every plane was off by quite a bit. However, if you read the directions provided with the SmartLevel, it has its best accuracy at 0 degrees. I think it is + or - .2 degrees or more when measuring angles. The washout is measured in fractions of a degree, so using a Smartlevel for the purpose of comparing relative washouts of a population of canards isn't too smart :-). It's a handy tool, but compared to a bubble level, it is costly and not as accurate. Lee Devlin | HP Greeley Division | Long EZ N36MX Piper Colt N4986Z | 700 71st Ave. | Cozy MK IV under const. 'Spirit of rec.aviation'| Greeley, CO 80634 | Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 16:29:09 -0400 From: william l kleb Organization: NASA Langley Research Center Subject: Re: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend (fwd) Lee Devlin wrote: > ... You may think > that + or - .1 degree is extremely accurate, but over a 10' span that > resolution translates to more than a .4 inch difference! and how accurately are you claiming you can read the mahogany 4' level? > However, if you > read the directions provided with the SmartLevel, it has its best > accuracy at 0 degrees. I think it is + or - .2 degrees or more when > measuring angles. this is a good point. there are at least two different models out there, one that is +/-0.1 deg around 0 and 90 degrees and +/-.5 degrees otherwise, and the other which is supposedly accurate to a least +/-0.1 deg for all angles. -- bil Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 17:41:38 -0400 (EDT) From: DFinn7971@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend (fwd) In a message dated 97-04-15 13:54:54 EDT, kleb@ab00.larc.nasa.gov (william l kleb) writes: << > So ... what's the advantage? >> I would agree that the bubble levels are every bit as accurate when viewed properly. The biggest advantage in the Smart Level that I see is that I can put the level crosswise in the fuselage and see that the plane is level without leaning over or standing at the end and sighting down the fuselage. I'm not sure I get an accurate view of a bubble level from these difficult positions. The digital read out shows up very clearly. It is also possible to adjust shims and see the result without having to change position to read the level. So much for the logic! The real reason I bought it is because its a nifty toy. A toy is its own justification. Dick Finn Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 18:43:24 -0400 From: David Domeier Subject: Re: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend (fwd) To all, I've used a type of smart level for about 3 years building my MKIV. Found it very useful in many ways from aligning the main gear axles while the strut was lying on my tool bench to setting the timing of a Slick mag and the Jeff Rose electronic ignition pick up in the other hole. Great tool, but I also have an old bubble level hanging out just to do quick things like making sure something is relatively straight up or across. dd Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 23:18:37 -0400 From: Rick Roberts <102503.1561@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: COZY: Smart Level, the builders friend (fwd) At Home Depot they generally only carry the cheaper less accurate Smart Level. Tool stores will generally carry the PRO smart level module which is the good one. The frames are generally interchangeable. So buy where they are cheapest. Rick Roberts Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 10:28:06 +0200 From: Rego Burger Subject: COZY: LEVELS ACCURACY Sorry, Could not keep silent on this one, I can't afford a smart level now but have seen one and from my experience it can be calibrated, ONE thing you can't do with a bubble. I wrote some time back about my "twist" problem I had with my canard construction. Was about to rebuild it when I found my Builders level not 180 deg. accurate, ie. turn it around 180 deg. on same "level" surface and it would be 1/8-1/4 bubble out!!!! Any donations toward a smart level please post to P.O. Box 28686 Sunridge Park 6008 P.E. RSA :-) :-) .... Happy building Rego Burger Port Elizabeth RSA ( Rep. South Africa ) cozy Mk 4 # 139 From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Re: COZY: Aileron cutout (fwd) Date: Mon, 12 May 97 13:58:51 EDT Richard Riley wrote; >We've had terrific success with the "Fine" brand detail sander..... That's "Fein". They're available from any good woodworker's supply house, and were discussed a year or two ago. Check the archives under "tools" for more info, probably from 1995 or 1996. >........ They remove a _very_ narrow curf..... And as long as I'm being anal, it's "kerf". Sorry, Richard :-). -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 19:46:00 +0000 From: Robin du Bois Subject: Re: COZY: Smart tool (smart level) Terence J. Pierce wrote: > > I have checked at Home Depot and Builders Square around here and neither > carry a Smart level. Yesterday while looking at some old e-mail from > this group, I saw that Marc Z. mentions you could get one of these from > Aircraft Spruce for around $80. You can find a Smart Level in any woodworking supply catalogue and pay less than that for it...As an ex pro woodworker I can tell you this: use the smart level to set up control surfaces, its great for this and plenty accurate. Don't use it to set incidence, level the fusilage etc. If you don't believe it, set it up on a really good four foot level on a bench and see how far you have to move the bubble before the "Smart" level registers a change! Robin Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 15:23:57 -0500 From: tpierce@ghg.net (Terence J. Pierce) Subject: COZY: Smart tool (smart level) I have checked at Home Depot and Builders Square around here and neither carry a Smart level. Yesterday while looking at some old e-mail from this group, I saw that Marc Z. mentions you could get one of these from Aircraft Spruce for around $80. So I checked my catalog today and they had what they called a smart tool. It came in 24 and 48 inches. $108.xx and $131.xx (something like that). The picture looked like a regular level with an electronic device in it. Then I looked at the 1997 Wicks catalog and they had a smart level that was only 5 to 8 inches long. It said that it fit on a standard rail(whatever that means). It was $88.xx. Which one of these are any of you using? Thanks, Terry Pierce Cozy Mark IV #600 half way done with chapter 4 Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 11:19:18 -0400 (EDT) From: DFinn7971@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Smart tool (smart level) In a message dated 97-05-15 18:25:48 EDT, tpierce@ghg.net (Terence J. Pierce) writes: << Aircraft Spruce for around $80. So I checked my catalog today and they had what they called a smart tool. It came in 24 and 48 inches. $108.xx and $131.xx (something like that). The picture looked like a regular level with an electronic device in it. Then I looked at the 1997 Wicks catalog and they had a smart level that was only 5 to 8 inches long. It said that it fit on a standard rail(whatever that means). It was $88.xx. Which one of these are any of you using? >> Terry, I bought my smartlevel at OSH two years ago. It cost about $80. I got the small electronic device and a rail to put it in like you describe. Try contacting Aircraft Tool in Michigan (I think). I bought it at their booth. Dick Finn Cozy Mark IV #46 Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 07:51:40 -0400 From: bil kleb Organization: NASA Langley Research Center Subject: Re: COZY: Cozy: Misc Questions Glen E Whittaker wrote: > > 3. Can a scroll saw be used as a substitute for a band saw? i think so. when i first started, i drooled over bandsaws for a couple months; but now i relish the space and money i have saved by not buying one. i have a top-end scroll saw and have not yet come to a point where i wished i had that bandsaw. -- bil From: Lee Devlin Subject: Re: COZY: Cozy: Misc Questions Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 8:15:44 MDT > > 3. Can a scroll saw be used as a substitute for a band saw? > I bought a scroll saw primarily because of the deeper throat depth thinking it would be the best of both worlds. However, I had a hard time making straight or smooth curvature cuts with it. I now have a little Delta benchtop band saw (the kind with a triangular blade path) which cost about 1/2 as much as the scroll saw and have found it to be much more useful around the shop. I think the scroll saw is great for making intricate sharp radius cuts, but it can't cut as fast for smoothly as my little band saw. Lee Devlin From: Epplin_John_A@hpmail1.90.deere.com Date: Wed, 21 May 97 09:36:36 -0500 Subject: Re: COZY: Cozy: Misc Questions > snip snip > > 3. Can a scroll saw be used as a substitute for a band saw? >> > > It can be but a band saw is bunches better.be wary of using anything other > then a fine tooth blade in the scroll saw as the reciprocating action will > cause delaminations. But a band saw if you can. Try Harbor Freight Tools > for a cheap one. If this is all you are going to do with it and are willing > to take extra effort with set ups to assure accuracy you will probably find > it adequate. > > Dick Finn > I purchased the 14" one that Harbor Freight sells from some company that goes around the country with a truck load of import tools and sells them at tent sales etc. This was sold as a wood cutting saw only. The blade speed was so high that using it on glass destroyed the blade rather quickly. I found out that for a few dollars more you can get the same basic machine with a speed selector. This would be well worth the extra money. I ended up adding a jack shaft and making a two speed arrangement for mine that works well enough. The high is about original and the low is less than one quarter speed. The low speed works well on aluminum and with care works on 4130 steel but is faster than it should be. The bottom line is buy the multi-speed, it cost me at least as much to modify mine. Another tip, I buy the economy blades from DO-ALL. The price is about the same as Sears and the blades are much higher quality. They also have premium blades at a much higher price. John Epplin Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 07:55:46 -0400 From: bil kleb Organization: NASA Langley Research Center Subject: Re: COZY: Cozy: Misc Questions bil kleb wrote: > > Glen E Whittaker wrote: > > > > 3. Can a scroll saw be used as a substitute for a band saw? > > i think so. when i first started, i drooled over bandsaws > for a couple months; but now i relish the space and money > i have saved by not buying one. i have a top-end scroll > saw and have not yet come to a point where i wished i had > that bandsaw. sorry, i meant sabre saw; not scroll saw. -- bil Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 16:02:16 +0200 From: Rego Burger Subject: COZY: Beginner Tips In the topics under the subject Misc. Questions a topic of saws eg. bandsaws etc. came up. I would like to mention a principle that could make or brake o project like ours. DON'T SPEND MONEY ON TOO MANY MACHINES! For all my curved cutting of plywood etc. I simply clamped my jigsaw up vertically in the jaws of a good bench vice - clamped with g-clamps. (ie. the vice to the work table. ) It worked fine. No wasted space. Just pack it away when finished. All my large wood cutting I did at a woodworking friends house. Don't buy machines Make friends it's a pleasure to involve others in minor projects to make your big one a success. EAA guys are sometime very helpful. Rego Burger Port Elizabeth RSA ( Rep. South Africa ) cozy Mk 4 # 139 From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Epoxy pump cleaning Date: Wed, 28 May 97 16:48:35 EDT People; I just made the switch from Hexcel 2427 epoxy to EZ10/84 (I'll talk about that issue in another message), so I dumped the leftover epoxy from my pump and cleaned it. I thought I'd describe that process, in case it could help anyone else. First, I scooped the hardener in the plastic container into a large paper mixing cup. Then, I poured the excess resin from the second plastic container into more cups. I then cleaned out the plastic containers as well as I could using paper towels and alcohol. Next, I completely disassembled the whole pump down to it's constituent atoms (well, parts, anyway), and cleaned each part in turn with alcohol and paper towels as I went. I left the small parts to soak in a small cup of alcohol (valves, chain links, pistons, etc.). There was a bit of caked on residue on one of the pistons, so I carefully scraped that off with a sharp utility knife. I cleaned out the cylinders and the seals with alcohol soaked paper towels. One of the chain links had frozen (due to caked on residue) in the lever arm, so I had to bang it out with a nail set and clean it with the utility knife and alcohol soak. I ensured that there was no residue, dirt, or epoxy on any of the parts, and then I re-assembled it. I used some grease on the chain links attaching the pistons to the lever arm, but made absolutely sure not to get any grease on the upper pistons where they slide in the cylinder, or on the seals. I also used some grease on the shoulder screw upon which the lever arm pivots. I put the plastic containers back in place with the cleaned valves, and I then poured the epoxy into the containers. I pumped epoxy until I got a solid stream from each tube, and then five more pumps to ensure that none of the old epoxy was left in the tubes. This cleaning made a HUGE difference in the operation of the pump - after two and a half years of use, it had gotten pretty stiff and crudded up. It's now extremely smooth and easy to modulate. I'd recommend doing this every year or so, or when you feel any stiffness in the pump (and have run out of epoxy, so as not to waste much). -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 17:13:32 -0500 From: skorija@ic.net (Skorija) Subject: COZY: Tools I am in Troy, MI with a too well equiped woodworking shop that is available to all comers Unisaw 18" band saw Jointer Thickness Planer Drill press Sot Mortiser Lathe 48" Shaper Hand Power Tools - all except fien sander Hand tools Ok can I turn the plane on the lathe Mike S Maker of wood dust and shavings - soon to be maker of foam and fiberglass dust Plans 591 Date: Tue, 03 Jun 1997 14:46:53 -0500 From: tpierce@ghg.net (Terence J. Pierce) Subject: COZY: Smart tool I got my smart tool yesterday from AS&S. It is pretty neat. It gives a digital readout of the angle. If you start at say 0 degrees and go to say 90 degrees then once you get a little past 90 and the read out would be upside down. It automatically flips the reading over for you. I can see how this could be a nice tool for setting the Canard angle, front seatback angle and any other angles you may need. I like tools that can possibly save me time and make my work more accurate. -- Terry Pierce e-mail: tpierce@ghgcorp.com Cozy Mark IV #600 Date: Fri, 06 Jun 1997 13:19:04 -0500 From: Darren DeLoach Subject: COZY: Epoxy pumps Need a recommdenation for a good epoxy pump, I plan on using EZPoxy (Safe-T-Poxy). Both Wicks and AS&S seem to like the Sticky Stuff model, for $234. Is this the best unit for the money? Is there a cheaper price somewhere else? Seems to me I remember a pump in something like Kitplanes in the ads in the back, for about $250 or so. Anyone using either of these two units who would recommend either one? TIA, -- Darren DeLoach Sales & Software http://www.deloach.com From: ratencio@coastalnet.com Date: Fri, 06 Jun 97 19:43:07 -0400 Subject: Re: COZY: Epoxy pumps In <2.2.32.19970606181904.00697d50@texoma.net>, on 06/06/97 at 01:19 PM, Darren DeLoach said: >Need a recommdenation for a good epoxy pump, I plan on using EZPoxy >(Safe-T-Poxy). FWIW I purchased the AR-100 adjustable ratio epoxy pump about a year ago. At the time I was using the Hexcel 2427 epoxy. I've since switched to the EZPoxy. The AR-100 appears to be well built, but I don't have any pumps to compare it to. I've been happy with it and I like the idea of being able to change the ratio without having to modify the pump, although that's not a big deal. I really liked it when I found out I had to switch epoxies. Just my 2 cents worth. ----------------------------------------------------------- Rob Atencio mailto:ratencio@coastalnet.com Cozy Mk IV #496 Chpt 9 New Bern, NC Date: Sat, 7 Jun 1997 14:38:44 -0400 (EDT) From: AlWick@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Epoxy pumps In a message dated 97-06-06 14:56:12 EDT, ddeloach@texoma.net (Darren DeLoach) writes: << Need a recommdenation for a good epoxy pump, I plan on using EZPoxy (Safe-T-Poxy). Both Wicks and AS&S seem to like the Sticky Stuff model, for $234. Is this the best unit for the money? Is there a cheaper price somewhere else? >> I'm nearing the end of my project. Never had a pump, never felt it necessary. I use the scale from the plans and pump into cup using hersheys pump. $6 total cost. Just to let you know there are alternatives. -al From: "Krasa-1, Paul" Subject: RE: COZY: Epoxy pumps Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 08:43:29 -0400 I bought mine (Sticky Stuff) used from a local builder for $75 and rebuilt it. Works great. Paul Krasa Long EZ 214LP >---------- >From: Darren DeLoach[SMTP:ddeloach@texoma.net] >Sent: Friday, June 06, 1997 2:19 PM >To: cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com >Subject: COZY: Epoxy pumps > >Need a recommdenation for a good epoxy pump, I plan on using EZPoxy >(Safe-T-Poxy). > >Both Wicks and AS&S seem to like the Sticky Stuff model, for $234. Is this >the best unit for the money? Is there a cheaper price somewhere else? > >Seems to me I remember a pump in something like Kitplanes in the ads in the >back, for about $250 or so. Anyone using either of these two units who >would recommend either one? > >TIA, >-- Darren >DeLoach Sales & Software >http://www.deloach.com > > Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 20:19:26 -0400 (EDT) From: DFinn7971@aol.com Subject: COZY: Hot Wire Hello All, I received the latest cataloge from Berlands House of Tools in Lombard Illinois. While browsing through it I noticed that they sell a hot wire set saw of sorts. It was listed under their dry walling equipment so I assume it is used to cut styrofoam forms for crown moldings and the like. You would then be able to plaster over the form. The price is crazy (almost $500) but I pass it on to the rest of you as an FYI. In any case, Berlands is a super tool store. They have a web site at WWW.THETOOLMAN.COM Dick Finn DFINN7971@AOL.COM Cozy Mark IV #46 Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 17:26:43 -0400 (EDT) From: Fritzx2@aol.com Subject: COZY: Epoxy Compatable Plastics Hi, Does anyone have any information on which types of "plastics" are compatable with the epoxies that we use? Specifically I'm using the original RAE system. Does anyone who has a pump ever notice what the material of the reservoirs are? It might be printed on some literature you received with the pump or it might be embosed on the pump reservoirs themselves in the form of the universal recycling symbol that is a triangularly shaped arrows with a number in the center ranging from 1-9, I believe. Jim Hocut once told me that he used a bicycle water bottle to "meter" out his hardner on his balance. Great low cost alternative to a pump in my opinion. I haven't seen any evidence that the hardner is reacting with the plastic but often wondered if it was. John Fritz fritzx2@aol.com by InfoAve.Net (PMDF V5.1-7 #17060) with SMTP id <01IK6VECSIOO9EPBJT@InfoAve.Net> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Tue, 17 Jun 1997 19:32:37 EST Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 19:30:16 -0400 From: Jeff S Russell Subject: Re: COZY: Epoxy Compatable Plastics Organization: AEROCAD INC. Fritzx2@aol.com wrote: > Does anyone have any information on which types of > "plastics" are compatable with the epoxies that we use? > Specifically I'm using the original RAE system. > I haven't seen any evidence that the hardner is reacting with > the plastic but often wondered if it was. John, We use plastic containers to ship out our EZ-10 and EZ-84 resin and hardener. The hardener will darken the container and break down the plastic over a couple of years. RAE will do the same. We have gone to more protective plastic only for the hardener so if it sat around for 2 years that it would not be a problem. I have found that metal containers are more prone to leak from a shipping drop then the plastic containers. Watch the Rubber Made adds on TV. Drop kicking the containers is almost not a problem. I used to work in designing foam packaging to ship containers for a living. This is how I learned to hotwire foam, wings came much later. I have 2 epoxy pumps for the EZ-84 fast and the EZ-87 slow. Both of my pumps are about 10 years old. I have replaced the plastic container 5 times now about every other year. I clean the pumps as Marc talked about cleaning all the moving parts at the same time. Remember that we almost always use these pumps almost every day. Almost no chance for them to stop up from sitting! -- Jeff Russell/AeroCad Inc. Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 16:53:53 -0700 From: Kevin Hester Subject: COZY: Re: Epoxy pump cleaning This brings up something: What is the recommended way of cleaning these pumps? I've been thinking of changing epoxies once I finish my current batch of Epoxy (a non Cozy project). If I did this, I'd really want my pump clean and nice before switching. >I have 2 epoxy pumps for the EZ-84 fast and the EZ-87 slow. >Both of my pumps are about 10 years old. I have replaced >the plastic container 5 times now about every other year. >I clean the pumps as Marc talked about cleaning all the >moving parts at the same time. Remember that we almost >always use these pumps almost every day. Almost no chance >for them to stop up from sitting! ----------------------------------------------------------------- S. Kevin Hester kevinh@prolific.com http://www.interstice.com/~kevinh "Castigat ridendo mores" From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Epoxy Compatable Plastics (fwd) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 97 10:04:44 EDT John Fritz asks: >Does anyone who has a pump ever notice what the material >of the reservoirs are? I don't remembers seeing a recycling # on the tubs when I cleaned them, but I wasn't looking. They look to be the same stuff that tupperware is made out of, and after 2 1/2 years of having 2427 sitting in them, there was no degradation at all. I believe they're polyethylene (that's what they look and feel like), but they _might_ be polypropylene. Whatever they are, they're just some cheapsh*t plastic :-). Kevin Hester asked about cleaning the pumps: Recently (just before you joined, I guess), I posted a relatively long message regarding cleaning my pump. I believe there have been one or two postings from others on the same subject. Check the recent archives for my posting (under tools, I think, or in one of the last couple of months of monthly archives). -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 11:16:04 -0500 From: Darren DeLoach Subject: COZY: Band saws? I've been looking for a low-cost, benchtop variable speed bandsaw for some time now. The only one I can find is a Black and Decker model BS700 from Walmart of all places, $198 (sales tax but no shipping at least). Is this the only option? Anyone have any experience with this particular model? -- Darren DeLoach Sales & Software http://www.deloach.com id <01IKAP8HKHBK9854YA@pmdf.cinops.xerox.com> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Fri, 20 Jun 1997 13:19:29 EST id <01IKAP7LIR009854YP@pmdf.cinops.xerox.com> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Fri, 20 Jun 1997 13:19:04 -0500 (EST) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 10:00:32 PDT From: "Hamilton,Thom" Subject: RE: COZY: Band saws? Posting-Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 12:10:33 -0600 Hop-Count: 3 <*>Date: Friday, June 20, 1997 12:00AM <*> <*>I've been looking for a low-cost, benchtop variable speed bandsaw for some <*>time now. The only one I can find is a Black and Decker model BS700 from <*>Walmart of all places, $198 (sales tax but no shipping at least). <*>Is this the only option? Anyone have any experience with this particular model? <*>-- Darren <*>DeLoach Sales & Software Darren, I have looked into the desktop bandsaw market recently and, yeah that's about all I found too. The Black & Decker bandsaw is on my shopping list barring something else turning up. You can try the tool merchants but even Harbor Freight, last bastion of the el cheapo tool addict had nothing in a benchtop metal cutting saw. I looked at Sears also and nada there. I was surprised to find the Black & Decker at Wal-Mart, but barring finding a better deal at Lowe's or Home Depot this weekend, that's what I will end up with. I'll let the list know if I find anything better and please let us know if you run across something better up your way. Thom Hamilton thom_hamilton@so.xerox.com Cozy MK-IV #620 Posted-Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 22:44:10 -0500 (CDT) From: "Darren DeLoach" Subject: COZY: Bandsaw hunt success! Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 22:40:15 -0500 Following Bill Kastenholz' suggestion, I drove down to Plano and my local Sears, there to find the bandsaw I purchased! Sears has a sale model 24453, which I paid $199.99 for. 10 inches, variable speed from 300-3000 (continuous dial), cast iron base and cast aluminum frame, takes 56 7/8", 1/4 or 1/8 bands. Bench top model, 1/3 HP. They also had a sale pack of 6 blades for 14.99, all wood oriented. I picked up a metal cuttin blade for 6.79, plus a miter gauge for 15.29. $237.06 total for all the goodies. The model was marked $219, but it's actually coming up $199 in the register as a sale price. Overall, seemed a little sturdier than the B&D unit at Walmart, and I know I can get replacement parts from any Sears, so... -- Darren Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 21:02:39 -0700 From: Kevin Hester Subject: COZY: Re: Sears Bandsaw I have the same bandsaw, but I have one tip to add: As sold, the pulleys have a pressed in brass bushing. This bushing tends to walk around against the pully. I found that after a little use the band began to wander so much that making a straight cut was difficult. A little bit of epoxy between the pulley and bushing made things MUCH better. It has been a very solid unit ever since. Your mileage may vary. ;-) Kevin At 10:40 PM 6/21/97 -0500, you wrote: >Following Bill Kastenholz' suggestion, I drove down to Plano and my local >Sears, there to find the bandsaw I purchased! > >Sears has a sale model 24453, which I paid $199.99 for. 10 inches, >variable speed from 300-3000 (continuous dial), cast iron base and cast >aluminum frame, takes 56 7/8", 1/4 or 1/8 bands. Bench top model, 1/3 HP. > > >They also had a sale pack of 6 blades for 14.99, all wood oriented. I >picked up a metal cuttin blade for 6.79, plus a miter gauge for 15.29. >$237.06 total for all the goodies. > >The model was marked $219, but it's actually coming up $199 in the register >as a sale price. Overall, seemed a little sturdier than the B&D unit at >Walmart, and I know I can get replacement parts from any Sears, so... > > >-- Darren > > Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 18:48:04 -0400 (EDT) From: DFinn7971@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Bandsaw hunt success! In a message dated 97-06-23 07:41:54 EDT, darren@deloach.com (Darren DeLoach) writes: << Following Bill Kastenholz' suggestion, I drove down to Plano and my local Sears, there to find the bandsaw I purchased! >> Like Darren, I'm a big fan of Sears. The hand tools are excellent quality and the power tools are quite good. As Darren mentioned, one of the big advantages is that Sears has stores just about everywhere. You can always get parts. I have found that if time permits I can often buy something on the used market by watching the local papers. In Chicago we have a paper called Trading Times which contains nothing but want ads. I purchased a Sears Craftsman 10" Radial Arm Saw that was about ten or fifteen years old for $25. All I had to do is replace the particle board table. Bargans do exist. If you see a need to buy a tool sometime in the future try keeping an eye out now. Dick Finn Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 12:02:19 -0500 From: Darren DeLoach Subject: COZY: Disston Abrader 401-C What is this tool (listed in the tools Mk IV tools list)? What does it look like? I've tried the usual Home Depot/Lowes places, and have had no luck finding it. Has anyone managed to find this thing? Is there an alternate tool I might be able to find instead? The plans say this item is used to smooth edges which are dremel or saw-cut if you were unable to knife-cut the part at the knife-cut stage (waited until the part had cured). -- Darren DeLoach Sales & Software http://www.deloach.com by SERV05.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (PMDF V5.1-7 #16063) with SMTP id <01IKOIRTLJCA002AU5@SERV05.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Mon, 30 Jun 1997 10:45:08 -0700 (PDT) Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 10:49:14 -0800 From: hrogers@SLAC.Stanford.edu (Howard Rogers) Subject: Re: COZY: Disston Abrader 401-C >What is this tool (listed in the tools Mk IV tools list)? What does it look >like? I've tried the usual Home Depot/Lowes places, and have had no luck >finding it. Has anyone managed to find this thing? Is there an alternate >tool I might be able to find instead? > >The plans say this item is used to smooth edges which are dremel or saw-cut >if you were unable to knife-cut the part at the knife-cut stage (waited >until the part had cured). > >-- Darren >DeLoach Sales & Software >http://www.deloach.com Darren, I have one of these (don't remember where I got it, possibly from a hobby mail order place) It is a "sanding block" with a sheet of metal that has been etched into a pattern of little "pillars". Each pillar is sharp-edged at the top, and the metal is very wear-resistant, so it lasts a long time, even on glass. I don't know if it is all that much better than a good sanding block, though. I used it a lot on balsa, and you probably couldn't wear it out in that type of duty. Bottom line: IMHO, no big deal. --Howard Rogers, 415-926-4052 hrogers@slac.stanford.edu Date: Mon, 30 Jun 97 14:04:01 EST From: "KEN SARGENT" Subject: Re: COZY: Disston Abrader 401-C I have seen this item mentioned in ASTM testing of friction coefficients as a means to keep a very consistant finish on shoe leather inbetween each test. I guess it is like a very durable sandpaper like file. Ken Sargent Cozy 555 ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: COZY: Disston Abrader 401-C Author: Darren DeLoach at DISNEY-WDW-INTERNET Date: 6/30/97 1:50 PM What is this tool (listed in the tools Mk IV tools list)? What does it look like? I've tried the usual Home Depot/Lowes places, and have had no luck finding it. Has anyone managed to find this thing? Is there an alternate tool I might be able to find instead? The plans say this item is used to smooth edges which are dremel or saw-cut if you were unable to knife-cut the part at the knife-cut stage (waited until the part had cured). -- Darren DeLoach Sales & Software http://www.deloach.com Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 17:22:59 -0700 From: Michael Antares Subject: COZY: Disston Abrader 401-C I have found one of the most useful tools that I have found for this sort of work is carbide-coated sanding "things". I say "things" because they come in many different shapes. I found them at the local RC store and even used on fiberglass they last a long time. The base is a sheet of steel which is in some cases formed around a wood cylinder and in other cases is just the sheet. Each one of them has two grits, coarse and fine. They are a life saver. Another favorite is a 24" T-bar made of aluminum to which you can glue your favorite sand paper--this also I got at my local RC store. It works great to finish off edges. Michael 6077 Old Redwood Highway Penngrove, CA 94951 707.792.7971 Systems engineering hardware/software From: Epplin John A Subject: COZY: Wing drilling Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 11:03:45 -0500 Some time ago someone wrote about using a hole saw instead of spotfacer to drill the wing bolt holes. Sounded like a good idea to me, grind some of the set off of the hole saw so it cut pretty well on size if I remember right. Should produce a lot less heat etc and be less likely to damage anything in the process. My question: I looked at several lumber yards and hardware stores and cannot fine a 5/8 hole saw, where do I get one? John Epplin Mk4 #467 je25272@deere.com Thanks From: Lee Devlin Subject: Re: COZY: Wing drilling Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 11:22:43 MDT > > Some time ago someone wrote about using a hole saw instead of spotfacer > to drill the wing bolt holes. Sounded like a good idea to me, grind > some of the set off of the hole saw so it cut pretty well on size if I > remember right. Should produce a lot less heat etc and be less likely > to damage anything in the process. > > My question: I looked at several lumber yards and hardware stores and > cannot fine a 5/8 hole saw, where do I get one? I found the hole saw much easier to use for drilling the gear mount tabs, but those are 3/4" holes. I got the hole saw at Sears. If I recall, that was the smallest hole saw they had. Lee Devlin by x14.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id PTA15043; Thu, 24 Jul 1997 15:08:23 EDT Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 15:06:30 -0400 Subject: COZY:wing drilling From: gmellen@juno.com (George J Mellen Jr.) >Some time ago someone wrote about using a hole saw instead of spotfacer >to drill the wing bolt holes. Sounded like a good idea to me, grind >some of the set off of the hole saw so it cut pretty well on size if I >remember right. Should produce a lot less heat etc and be less likely >to damage anything in the process. I did this with my wings, and the hole saw is not as precise as the spot facing tool. The holes are a fraction over size and when I bonded the steel inserts into the holes and then went to bolt the wings to the spar a couple of the holes did not quite line up !!! I was however able to fix this, by knocking the inserts back out and floxing the inserts back in while the wing was bolted to the spar. I tried at first with a borrowed spot facing tool ( that had already built two airplanes) and got nowhere fast. The hole saw zipped right through. >My question: I looked at several lumber yards and hardware stores and >cannot fine a 5/8 hole saw, where do I get one? I found mine at Builders Square, I believe it was made by Dewalt. I then took the 1/4" bit out of the arbor that came with it and replaced it with a 1/4" bit that was about 12" long . Worked great. George Mellen gmellen@juno.com From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Re: COZY: Wing drilling (fwd) Date: Thu, 24 Jul 97 15:08:45 EDT Jeff Russell wrote; >> My question: I looked at several lumber yards and hardware stores and >> cannot fine a 5/8 hole saw, where do I get one? > >That's what we have used on over 40 sets of wings. A long 5/8" hole saw >can be had at WW Grangers. I don't have their phone #. See: http://www.grainger.com/ or (For Orion, IL, where John Epplin lives - call information for the closest store near YOU): Store : 200 961 E. 53RD ST. DAVENPORT , IA 52807 Phone: (319)391-6015 FAX: (319)386-7500 Store Hours: 8:00am - 5:00pm (M-F) Between them and McMaster-Carr (and Harbor Tool), I think you could build a Space Shuttle, the Vehicle Assembly building, the MIR space station, and a '57 Chevy, all by mail order. as far as the holesaw goes, from the web catalog: Part # ------ 4L479 HOLESAW 5/8" BIMETAL,HI-SPD STEEL $7.16 EDGE,VARIABLE PITCH They've got over 100 different hole saws available (not to mention about 17 Zillion other things). -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com by InfoAve.Net (PMDF V5.1-7 #23426) with SMTP id <01ILMA4OWR4Y917Y8S@InfoAve.Net> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Thu, 24 Jul 1997 14:44:19 EST Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 14:43:36 -0400 From: Jeff S Russell Subject: Re: COZY: Wing drilling Organization: AEROCAD INC. Epplin John A wrote: > > Some time ago someone wrote about using a hole saw instead of spotfacer > to drill the wing bolt holes. Sounded like a good idea to me, grind > some of the set off of the hole saw so it cut pretty well on size if I > remember right. Should produce a lot less heat etc and be less likely > to damage anything in the process. > > My question: I looked at several lumber yards and hardware stores and > cannot fine a 5/8 hole saw, where do I get one? That's what we have used on over 40 sets of wings. A long 5/8" hole saw can be had at WW Grangers. I don't have their phone #. -- Jeff Russell/AeroCad Inc. From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Hole Saws Date: Tue, 2 Sep 97 12:55:55 EDT People; We've had various discussions regarding hole saws (for wing/spar holes, etc.). I bought a couple of hole saws from Grainger (http://www.grainger.com) for the instrument panel - 2 1/4" and 3 1/8". They sell hole saws in every imaginable size - you need a hole, they can get you a hole saw that's the right size. I just cut a few holes in the instrument panel, and both size instruments fit perfectly. Cuts through the panel in about seven seconds. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com From: "Ian Martin" Subject: COZY: Shop related Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 12:43:50 -0700 Hello Fellow Builders, My question of the day is, How are you sharpening your scissors ? Having compared my new pair of Weiss to an older pair it was obvious that I could do better. The difference is really noticable when trimming wet layups. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- J. Ian Martin GreyStone Technology, Inc. Phone: (619) 874 - 7000 x184 4950 Murphy Canyon Rd. San Diego, CA. 92123 email: imartin@gstone.com From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:25:07 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Shop related - Scissors I have used Fiskars very successfully, they come in Left handed versions. To sharpen, clamp in your vise, blades wide open, cutting edge up. Use a sharp single cut bastard file. Maintain the same angle, and don't get lazy by flattening the angle, saying, I'll do better next time. Try various angles of the file cutting edge to length of the blade. The object is to have a sharp edge, the rest doesn't count. A little roughness from the file doesn't seem to hurt, and may help prevent material (in particular kevlar) from slipping. You can try stoning the edge after sharpening, but only very lightly and very flat on the parallel edges. The coarse weave kevlar can be cut with much difficulty, the fine weave with moderate difficulty. Both require frequent sharpening. Carl Denk: "cdenk@ix.netcom.com" From: "mel" Subject: Re: COZY: Shop related Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 18:04:45 -0400 i wait till the epoxy is set and use a file across the flat of the blade norm ---------- > From: Ian Martin > To: Tech Update > Subject: COZY: Shop related > Date: Monday, September 29, 1997 3:43 PM > > Hello Fellow Builders, > > My question of the day is, How are you sharpening your scissors ? > > Having compared my new pair of Weiss to an older pair it was obvious that I > could do better. The difference is really noticable when trimming wet layups. > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- > > J. Ian Martin GreyStone Technology, Inc. > Phone: (619) 874 - 7000 x184 > 4950 Murphy Canyon Rd. > San Diego, CA. 92123 > email: imartin@gstone.com > From: Fritzx2@aol.com Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:55:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: COZY: Scissor sharpening Ian Martin writes: >How are you sharpening your scissors ? I have been sharpening my scissors with a 1000 grit Jap. water stone. Try to keep the original angle on the blade. I think I even remember that on the cheap pair of scissors I have, the angle is not the same across the entire blade. I also discovered that the angle of sharpening is much more important than how sharp the scissors are. For example, once I sharpened the scissors very sharp with the water stone and they didn't cut the fiberglass very well. The angle was too sharp which made the scissors spread apart and the glass slide between the blades instead of being sheared. Then I experimented by sharpening the scissors with a file at different angles until they scissors would cut many layers of wet glass with peel ply on top very easily. With that angle established, (and maybe that was the angle of the scissors before I sharpened them the first time) I kept the scissors sharp with the Jap. water stone. One other scissor related cutting technique: I found that a very fine powder of fiberglass dust accumulates on the scissor blade face after a number of cuts which makes cutting harder. A simple occasional wipe of the scissor blade face prevents this buildup and results in much easier cutting. Having said that, for small glass cutting, ( < 2' x 2' ) I now use an Olfa rotary cutter on top of a scrap piece of Linoleum, but for large layups I still use scissors. John Fritz fritzx2@aol.com From: DFinn7971@aol.com Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 08:37:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Shop related In a message dated 97-09-29 15:48:22 EDT, imartin@indy3.gstone.com writes: << My question of the day is, How are you sharpening your scissors ? >> I had heard that boiling them would clean them off real well before sharpening. It didn't work at all though. I ended up taking the scissors apart and scraping them with a utility knife to get rid up any epoxy build up. I then used a whetstone to sharpen them. After reassembly they worked fine. As a side note, Two years ago I came across a fabric cutter at Oshkosh. It basically is a plastic handle with a rotating disk blade. You just roll it across the cloth and it gives a nice neat cut with no stetching. It cost about $10.00. I strongly recommend this cutter. Using a scissors distorts the cloth (not a big deal I'll admit as you can pull it back into shape) while the cutter leaves the cloth laying flat on the table with a beautiful cut. It is also significantly faster. I just lay my straightedge across the cloth and run the cutter along the edge -- no Magic Marker lines. Dick Finn From: "McElhoe, Bruce" Subject: RE: COZY: Epoxy-Brush in the freezer Date: Wed, 01 Oct 97 13:48:00 HST Want to enjoy a great luxury for a few bucks? Buy yourself a box of cheap brushes, so that at the end of a successful layup you can admire your work, throw all your sticky things in the trash, and go relax. I used to clean (and freeze) brushes, wipe off stir sticks, clean my gloves for a second use, and spend a long time cleaning up. Not any more. It feels SO GOOD to get that mask off my face, get outa' that smelly shop, and hit the showers. Of course, I take a minute to clean scissors and squeegees with MEK, and wipe off drips on the work. Building an airplane is FUN. ---------- Carl Denk wrote: Yes, I too wipe off the scissors with l. thinner after use, but they cut so much easier, in particular when cutting the overhanging cloth to less than 1/4" and there is some epoxy around. From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 17:32:33 -0500 (CDT) Subject: RE: COZY: Epoxy-Brush in the freezer Yes, I too wipe off the scissors with l. thinner after use, but they cut so much easier, in particular when cutting the overhanging cloth to less than 1/4" and there is some epoxy around. Carl Denk: "cdenk@ix.netcom.com" Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 15:48:50 -0700 From: C Van Hoof Organization: Architect Subject: Re: COZY: Scissor sharpening > > Ian Martin writes: > > >How are you sharpening your scissors ? Hi all, Since i get a lot of help from my friend Jean (female) - it was not long before the "sewing" input came - i now use an Olfa (rotary cutter). Am now in ch 09 and have used it since the seatback (way back when), still on the first blade, and i cut everything with it...even wet layups on the mylar(or any plastic underlay). It's been cleaned twice. It does not cut peelply at all - seems to melt the strands together. I would buy one again tomorrow - if that is an indication of how i feel about this little inplement. My cutting table is covered with a white plastic cover - also found in the sewing shop - for cutting on. The scissors also made me itch beween my fingers - due to the manner in which the material was handled - none of that. Have you not got one yet ? :-) chris #219 Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 08:37:59 -0400 From: bil kleb Organization: NASA Langley Research Center Subject: Re: COZY: Chap. 4 - Bulkheads rfisher@spacetech.com wrote: > > Anyway, after perusing the archives, I decided to get a piece > of G-10 for the landing gear attach points. ... I asked him > how to cut it, and he said "good luck, we use a diamond blade." i've had no problem cutting the stuff with a regular metal- cutting blade in my jig saw (aka sabre saw?). granted, the blade only lasted for the task at hand. i used another for the 3/8"-thick G-10 pieces i used for the shoulder harness attach points in chap 8, and yet another for cutting the main landing gear tabs to shape in chap 9; but, hey, they're cheap. -- bil From: Epplin John A Subject: RE: COZY: Chap. 4 - Bulkheads Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 08:16:11 -0500 > -----Original Message----- > From: rfisher@spacetech.com [SMTP:rfisher@spacetech.com] > Sent: Monday, October 06, 1997 10:52 PM > To: cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com > Subject: COZY: Chap. 4 - Bulkheads [Epplin John A] snip > Nat suggests that the entire chapter should take about > 25 hours. Either he's not figuring in the time for tracing and > cutting out > patterns, or I'm being WAAAAAAY too anal about getting things right. [Epplin John A] I think Nat is using his time to build, you may get to that point on your second or third airplane. snip > Speaking > of patterns, has anyone else noticed on drawing M3, that the bottom of > the > instrument panel is more than 1/8" farther from the horizontal match > line in the > center than it is in the corner. If you went by the match lines, the > panel > would have a shallow 'V' bottom. [Epplin John A] This has been one of my gripes from day one. Paper patterns are not very accurate at best. For the most part they are good enough for the job, but I wonder about airfoils, especially the canard and elevator. I guess one consolation is that there are over a thousand of the Rutan derivatives flying, must be OK. Marc is getting a collection of CAD drawings as time goes on. At least these are reproducible with more than adequate precision. I have DXF files of the wing hot wire templates that I used with a laser cutter to make the templates. It will be over a year before I can say these are flight tested. The wings are built and look very good. See the archives from early this year and late last year on this subject. [Epplin John A] snip > I asked him how to cut it, and he said > "good luck, we use a diamond blade." [Epplin John A] I used a metal cutting band saw blade, running at steel cutting speeds. I don't know what the fpm was, but slow. If you try to cut it at speeds used for wood, the blade will go away very quickly. Also found out that blades from DoAll are much better and last longer than the ones from the discount stores. They are about the same price unless you want their premium bi-metal blades. John epplin Mk4 #467 -- over half done, 95% to go. Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 13:20:34 -0500 (CDT) From: Tom Brusehaver Subject: COZY: tools: drill press I am going to buy a drill press this weekend. I am having a hard time deciding between a floor model, and a table top model. I think I really want the floor model, it costs more, and is less portable, but I think it will serve me better. Something is clicking inside my head saying I would be ok with the table top model, it would probably serve 99% of my needs for sure. Am I suffering the Tim Taylor syndrome (more power)? I talked to a guy building a Velocity on Monday, and he has one of each! Anyone? From: Epplin John A Subject: RE: COZY: tools: drill press Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 13:50:15 -0500 > -----Original Message----- > From: Tom Brusehaver [SMTP:tomb@augusta.netperceptions.com] > Sent: Friday, October 24, 1997 1:21 PM > To: cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com > Subject: COZY: tools: drill press > > > I am going to buy a drill press this weekend. I am having a hard time > deciding between a floor model, and a table top model. > > I think I really want the floor model, it costs more, and is less > portable, but I think it will serve me better. > > Something is clicking inside my head saying I would be ok with the > table top model, it would probably serve 99% of my needs for sure. > > Am I suffering the Tim Taylor syndrome (more power)? > > I talked to a guy building a Velocity on Monday, and he has one of > each! > > Anyone? [Epplin John A] Tom: I have a floor model that I have never lowered the table below what you can get from a table model. I guess that says a table model of the same size will do everything I need to do. Now to confuse things even more, if you can even think about it take a look at the imported table model mill-drill machines. These cost a lot more but have much more capability. You could start with the basic machine and add tooling as you need it. I purchased one several years ago and cannot imagine living without it anymore. It is not hard to learn simple milling operations and one thing that these things will do is drill a hole where you want it. I almost never get the bluing and scribe out anymore, just clamp the part and locate the edges as needed and position the part right on the money. john epplin Mk4 #467 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 15:00:30 -0400 From: bil kleb Organization: NASA Langley Research Center Subject: Re: COZY: tools: drill press Tom Brusehaver wrote: > > I am going to buy a drill press this weekend. for what it's worth: i bought an old rockwell (delta) floor model at an auction before i began building. i am now in chap 10, and i swear i'd die if i didn't have my cordless dewalt hand drill. granted, i'm not that far in all this; but it seems that if you're buying prefab parts, a drill press is serious "Tim Taylor syndrome" just in itself---be it floor or table top. -- bil From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Re: COZY: tools: drill press (fwd) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 15:26:15 EDT bil kleb wrote: >granted, i'm not that far in all this; but it >seems that if you're buying prefab parts, a drill >press is serious "Tim Taylor syndrome" just in >itself---be it floor or table top. I have a table top model and it has been adequate for 100% of my needs through chapter 24. You certainly don't NEED one (I built a Q2 with just a 3/8" hand drill from Sears), but it's VERY handy for drilling straight holes (and big holes - it's got a 1/2" chuck) especially through tubing for the control system. My $0.02. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 15:01:11 -0500 From: Bulent Subject: Re: COZY: tools: drill press Hi Tom, me and another builder have been using a $69 Table top drill press for two years. And you are right: it's good for 90% of the work. The rest you can go to your friends. Also you can find a good one in the classifieds and flee markets. Last week I did buy a $600 9" radial arm saw for $50. Good Luck! Bulent CZ-IV From: "norm & monda" Subject: Re: COZY: tools: drill press Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 16:44:11 -0400 oh boy. i have a table top 1/2" chuck, it wasnt strong enough so i got a 5/8"chuck 3/4hp table top. after using it for a while i now wish id gotten the 1hp floor model. norm & monda cozy IV #202 From: SBLANKDDS@aol.com Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 21:03:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: COZY: tools: drill press Haven't needed a drill press yet.......... If you want to buy one and money is not a factor buy the best. If you like wood working, it will be a great addition to your shop. If you are wondering if you can build a Cozy without a drill press, the answer is yes. Perhaps a holder for some parts is helpful, but the drill press won't help when you punch the holes in the landing gear bulkheads! or seat back. "The boy with the most toys wins.........." Steve Blank.....forever building....... Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 18:41:11 -0700 (PDT) From: "Mr. Radon" Subject: Re: COZY: tools: drill press I held off for awhile, but found a used mill very cheap. I've saved many hours of work using it for the airplane and other things around the house. I think the important thing here is keep your eyes open, your needs known, and somewhere the ideal tool will pop up at the right price. ROY Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 09:30:11 -0800 From: Stetson Elliott Subject: Re: COZY: tools: drill press Tom Brusehaver wrote: > I am going to buy a drill press this weekend. I am having a hard time > > deciding between a floor model, and a table top model. > > I think I really want the floor model, it costs more, and is less > portable, but I think it will serve me better. > > Something is clicking inside my head saying I would be ok with the > table top model, it would probably serve 99% of my needs for sure. > > Am I suffering the Tim Taylor syndrome (more power)? > > I talked to a guy building a Velocity on Monday, and he has one of > each! My opinion is that a drill press is essential for accurate drilling. A hand drill alone just won't cut it, in my book. I also go the extra step of drilling most holes in metal a little undersized, and reaming them up to a precise diameter. Reamers aren't cheap, but it's the only way to get precise holes. A table model drill press handled 100% of the drilling needs for my Long-EZ project. A floor model would be better, but I don't think it's worth the extra cost. If you're in the pre-build stage, you can do what I did when I started. Instead of buying the landing gear mounting extrusions from Brock (which you'll need early in the project), make them yourself. With the money you save you can almost cover the cost of the drill press and reamers needed to make them. It's alot of work with a hack saw and file, but a good trade-off if you're on a budget. One last recommendation - Buy a COMPLETE set of drill bits in the letter and fractional sizes. You won't believe the number of times you'll have a need for the odd sizes. Harbor Freight (and other mail order houses) often sell the "made overseas" sets for well under $75.00, which is a steal, and my set of this quality is still going strong 13 years later. Any bit that I wear out or break I just replace at Home Depot or Sears. -- Stet Elliott flyez@earthlink.net Long-EZ N321EF Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 12:40:02 -0600 (CST) From: Tom Brusehaver Subject: Re: COZY: tools: drill press S> My opinion is that a drill press is essential for accurate S> drilling. A hand drill alone just won't cut it, in my book. I S> also go the extra step of drilling most holes in metal a little S> undersized, and reaming them up to a precise diameter. Reamers S> aren't cheap, but it's the only way to get precise holes. I have found this for other projects as well, that is why I wanted a drill press this weekend. Finish up the other projects, and move on the the cozy, just got off the phone with Wicks for my first order. S> A table model drill press handled 100% of the drilling needs for S> my Long-EZ project. A floor model would be better, but I don't S> think it's worth the extra cost. This was the major opinion from everyone. For the airplane, the table model was good. No one recommended one of those goofey things you strap a hand drill in (I wouldn't have bought one anyway). The few people who recomended a floor model justified it with other projects. I guess my issue was space as opposed to money (I guess money was to a certain extent, but for tools I don't mind spending more if I can see a value). The table top model I got fit really nicely on my bench right in front of the fuse box, which I had left open for access. S> If you're in the pre-build stage, you can do what I did when I S> started. Instead of buying the landing gear mounting extrusions S> from Brock (which you'll need early in the project), make them S> yourself. With the money you save you can almost cover the cost S> of the drill press and reamers needed to make them. It's alot of S> work with a hack saw and file, but a good trade-off if you're on a S> budget. I might take a look at it. This winter I don't want to do tons of work out in the garage, so I am going to do as much 2D stuff in the basement as possible. This sounds like something appropriate for a -20F weekend in January :-). S> One last recommendation - Buy a COMPLETE set of drill bits in the S> letter and fractional sizes. You won't believe the number of S> times you'll have a need for the odd sizes. Harbor Freight (and S> other mail order houses) often sell the "made overseas" sets for S> well under $75.00, which is a steal, and my set of this quality is S> still going strong 13 years later. Any bit that I wear out or S> break I just replace at Home Depot or Sears. This is on the list. I saw a "made overseas" set at a tool shop not too far from my house over the weekend for about the same price. The plans recommend the 1-60 numbered set, and as a model builder I already had the 61-80 set, and cannot live without it. Thanks everyone for the help. It made me sleep a lot better Saturday night, knowing I did the "right" thing. From: DFinn7971@aol.com Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 14:57:11 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: COZY: tools: drill press In a message dated 97-10-24 14:36:12 EDT, tomb@augusta.netperceptions.com writes: << I am going to buy a drill press this weekend. I am having a hard time deciding between a floor model, and a table top model. >> I bought a floor model and am quite happy with it. The biggest advantage that I can see is that it doesn't take up room on the work bench. Whichever you choose, I would advise the following additional purchases: 1. Buy a set of drill bits. Harbor Freight Tools (and others) have a complete set of fractional, numbered and lettered bits for about $49. You get what you pay for but they have served me well. 2. Harbor Freight also sells fractional bits in packs of a dozen. They are cheap and I bought a number of the smaller sizes (i.e. 1/16"). The smaller sizes break easy and its nice to have a pack of spares. 3. Buy a cross vise. I bought a fairly good one from a catalog for $69. I cna't remember the supplier but I did find the cross vise a super addition to my drill press. 4. I bought a Vee block from Harbor Freight to help in centering holes in tubing. Ive used it several times and it is helpful. Dick Finn From: CCady@aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 14:54:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: COZY: Dremel tool alternatives? I think I've had it with Dremel tools. I got one of the new ones a while back and it's dead already. I dropped it once and it quit. Took it apart and got it going but they aren't very tough. The older ones seemed tougher. Anyone tried any alternatives? How about Ryobi? I got a Black & Decker Wizard at Walmart and it works great so far. Don't know how long it will last. For serious grinding I use a air powered die-grinder but still like to use the smaller grinders. Cliff Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 16:27:22 -0500 From: Jim Hocut Subject: Re: COZY: Dremel tool alternatives? >I think I've had it with Dremel tools. I got one of the new ones a while >back and it's dead already. >Anyone tried any alternatives? How about Ryobi? > I had a similar experience almost 2 years ago, opted to go with the Dremel 'cause it was a name I new. The first one I got had a bad switch, so took it back. The second one had a bad bearing, so two strikes and your out. I got my money back from the Dremel and replaced it with the Ryobi (which actually cost a little less). It's been great, has survived nearly two years of my abuse (and fiberglass dust) without a complaint. Also, while on the subject, one of the neatest gizmos I've seen is the Dremel router attachment. It's great for taking sections of foam down to make depressions before glassing etc., wish I'd have gotten one before I did the depressions in the fuselage sides for the control sticks. It works with the Ryobi also, just had to apply a couple wraps of duct tape to snug up the fit. Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 20:11:56 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Dremel tool alternatives? Dremel many times will fix at no or minimal cost. I has been ~$30 for repair, maximum, and many times you get a new tool. The big problem is the slide switch, the old ones with the rotar switch were much better. Some times blowing out the slide switch works. You need torx screw drivers to disassemble. It got that I stocked a switch, several plastic sleeve drive joints (they are a safety device), and an arbor with bearing. The router base is excellent, when used with a straight edge and sanding drum for trimming edges like wing and canard trailing edges. From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Re: COZY: Dremel tool alternatives? (fwd) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 97 9:46:01 EST Jim Hocut wrote; >..... replaced it with the Ryobi (which >actually cost a little less). It's been great, has survived nearly two >years of my abuse (and fiberglass dust) without a complaint. I'll second the recommendation of the Ryobi. Fits the hand better, has more torque, and DOESN'T GET HOT ENOUGH TO BURN MY HANDS!!!!!, no matter how long I run the thing. With the cable extension (pain to install, but works well) I can get into much smaller spaces than I ever could before. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 16:39:11 -0500 From: Ian Douglas Organization: WTC Subject: COZY: Mill, Lathe and Press Combo Hi All, A few years (probably 10) ago I remember seeing an add for a triple mode tooling bench. This thing was a Milling Machine then by spinning on a 45 degree line it could be reconfigured as a Lathe. Since a Mill or Lathe can both double as Drill Presses it also claimed to be a Drill Press. Has anyone ever seen one of these? I would be most interested if you have. -- Ian D.S. Douglas MK0069