Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 8:26:12 EST From: "Nick J Ugolini" Subject: COZY: Instrument Panel Does anyone have a recommendations for an easy way to cut holes in the instrument panel? Hole saws, router template. custom made tools? Thanks Southern Division, Naval Facilities Engineering Command P.O. Box 190010 N. Charleston, SC 29419-9010 Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 17:30:18 -0500 From: Paul Burkhardt Subject: Re: COZY: Instrument Panel Nick J Ugolini wrote: > > Does anyone have a recommendations for an easy way to cut holes in the > instrument panel? > > Hole saws, router template. custom made tools? > > Thanks > > Southern Division, Naval Facilities Engineering Command > P.O. Box 190010 > N. Charleston, SC 29419-9010 Nick, I used a "hole saw" that is adjustable. The cutting arm swings outward and is adjustable. It worked quits well. Paul Burkhardt Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 10:54:24 -0500 (EST) From: DFinn7971@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Instrument Panel In a message dated 97-01-08 08:38:36 EST, njugolini@efdsouth.navfac.navy.mil (Nick J Ugolini) writes: << Does anyone have a recommendations for an easy way to cut holes in the instrument panel? Hole saws, router template. custom made tools? >> I haven't cut my holes in the panel yet but did have to cut the two circular holes in the cover over the landing gear. I think the same method could be used on the instrument panel. I used a circle cutter (I'm not positive of the technical name but it may be called a fly cutter). It is a gizmo with a center drill bit and an adjustable bar where you can set the radius of the hole. At the outer end of the bar is a cutting blade. You can chuck it in a portable drill a cut away. Because of the design the device tends to be unstable and wobbles. I found it works best in a drill press that will hold it ridgidly perpendicular to the work piece. Obviously it will be difficult to flip the plan on its nose and slide it into the drill press to drill the instrument panel. What I found works well is to cut at a slow speed and reverse the drills rotation. This certainly has a negative affect on the sharpness of the cutter but it easily4 gave me near perfect holes with no grabbing. I passed this on to another fellow last year and he tried it successfully. Dick Finn Cozy Mark IV #46 DFINN7971@AOL.COM From: Epplin_John_A@hpmail1.90.deere.com Date: Thu, 9 Jan 97 11:11:09 -0600 Subject: COZY: Instrument Panel > Does anyone have a recommendations for an easy way to cut holes in the > instrument panel? > > Hole saws, router template. custom made tools? > I have done this several ways in Aluminum. If you are using a fiberglass panel per plans, I would suggest a hole saw in a variable speed drill. Use an under size saw, 3 in for 3 1/8 holes etc. Use a round block, tin can or jar etc, wrapped with coarse sandpaper to get to final size. Make the notches with a rat-tail file etc. I made a .090 2024-t3 insert for my panel held in with 8-32 screws into nut plates imbedded in the fiberglass. At present the panel is fitted but no holes cut yet. I made a dimensioned drawing for the panel with the mounting screws located and took it to a machine shop and asked him to cut it .010 in. oversize and drill the screw holes with their CNC machines. After I get a final layout, I will take it back and have the .010 machined off for paint clearance and the rest of the cutting done. This is not a big job and may not be as costly as one might think if the holes are simple, the programming is easy. I can do the CNC programming myself which helps a lot in my case. The shop I took mine to does panels for the local FBO radio shop also. The quality is as good as it gets. Incidentally, a fly cutter used any place other than in a good drill press or vertical mill and a well clamped part scares me. I have had bad experiences. My .02 worth John Epplin Mk4 #467 Date: Thu, 09 Jan 97 14:46:51 EST From: MISTER@neesnet.com Subject: Re[2]: COZY: Instrument Panel (Nick J Ugolini) writes: << Does anyone have a recommendations for an easy way to cut holes in the instrument panel? Hole saws, router template. custom made tools? >> The device I used (and found it worked quite well) is the adjustable hole cutter shown on P 149 of the Wicks 1996 catalog. (part number ATS-HC1). I had to play with it initially to get it accurately set for the proper hole size but once it was set it worked well. I also successfully used a tool from Aircraft Spruce that aligns the mounting holes for the 2 1/4 and 3 1/8 openings. It has a metal plate with the center hole and the four screw holes and a punch to mark the screw hole locations. What I did to use this was to make accurate, tight fitting circles out of 1/4" birch plywood that had an accurately located hole in the center. I used a 4-40 screw and nut to attach this circle to the mounting hole template. All I needed to do to get the mounting holes accurately placed was to put the assembled template in the instrument hole, level it, then punch and drill the mounting holes. After a couple of trials on some luan plywood I was able to accurately do this on the instrument panel. Please note that I had waited until I was ready to install my instruments before I started cutting the holes. This presented some problems and I suggest that you cut out your instrument panel holes before permanently mounting it in the fuselage. my $.02 Bob Misterka N342RM ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: COZY: Instrument Panel Author: DFinn7971@aol.com at INTERNET Date: 1/9/97 11:02 AM In a message dated 97-01-08 08:38:36 EST, njugolini@efdsouth.navfac.navy.mil (Nick J Ugolini) writes: << Does anyone have a recommendations for an easy way to cut holes in the instrument panel? Hole saws, router template. custom made tools? >> I haven't cut my holes in the panel yet but did have to cut the two circular holes in the cover over the landing gear. I think the same method could be used on the instrument panel. I used a circle cutter (I'm not positive of the technical name but it may be called a fly cutter). It is a gizmo with a center drill bit and an adjustable bar where you can set the radius of the hole. At the outer end of the bar is a cutting blade. You can chuck it in a portable drill a cut away. Because of the design the device tends to be unstable and wobbles. I found it works best in a drill press that will hold it ridgidly perpendicular to the work piece. Obviously it will be difficult to flip the plan on its nose and slide it into the drill press to drill the instrument panel. What I found works well is to cut at a slow speed and reverse the drills rotation. This certainly has a negative affect on the sharpness of the cutter but it easily4 gave me near perfect holes with no grabbing. I passed this on to another fellow last year and he tried it successfully. Dick Finn Cozy Mark IV #46 DFINN7971@AOL.COM From: Ken Reiter Date: Thu, 9 Jan 97 14:32:07 CST Subject: Re: Re[2]: COZY: Instrument Panel << Does anyone have a recommendations for an easy way to cut holes in the instrument panel? Hole saws, router template. custom made tools? >> I used two white hole saws (forget the sizes) at the Home Depot (Hardware store) they were standard sizes that are under size for our holes. I think 2" hole for 2 1/8 instruments Then used 40 sandpaper on a round "thing" can be any item - like a tapered jar- that is round and will fit inside the hole. This gives you a round hole that you fit as tight to the instrument as you like. With 40 grit it does not take long to custom size the holes. NOTE - Make sure you leave room for paint! Good Luck, Ken Reiter Dallas, Tx Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 15:19:34 -0700 From: Mahan Subject: Re: COZY: cockpit lighting DevoCoach@aol.com wrote: > > I am at the point where I am considering cockpit lighting. I am curious > about what other builders have used for lights and dimmers. Any thoughts? > > Jeff Mallia I used two of the little "eyeball" lights in my Long-EZ, one illiminating from each side of the panel. No dimmer, the level seems about right and I don't fly much at night, anyway. Fred in Florida Long-EZ N86LE Date: Mon, 28 Apr 97 08:06:06 EST From: MISTER@neesnet.com Subject: Re: COZY: cockpit lighting Jeff Mallia asked: " I am curious about what other builders have used for lights and dimmers. Any thoughts?" I used lighted guages where i could get them and post lights where I couldn't. Hated paying the price for the post lights, but they do the job. The lamp dimmer I used was a neat little kit from Bob Nuckolls at Aeroelectric. I recommend his materials and products. You can check out his home page at http://www.aeroelectric.com. I used his wiring ideas, his dimmer, fuses, grounding, and overvoltage crowbar. He also sells a top quality terminal crimper for a reasonable price. Bob Misterka N342RM From: Ken Reiter Date: Mon, 28 Apr 97 08:52:19 CDT Subject: COZY: cockpit lighting Hello Group, I used post lights from Dallas Aircraft Salvage with a dimmer from Aircraft Spruce. Once a year, DAS has a sale. I think the post lights were 25%-40% of list, with all new bulbs. I just taped and painted the old post lights to match the new panel color. They guarantee all items. An example, after 9 years we were about to start my O-320 that was purchased from DAS. I found a crack in the overflow outlet of the fuel pump. I call DAS, stated what I had found and when I had purchased the engine - NO PROBLEM, just bring the pump down and DAS would repair or replace. No paper required. Result engine stated this weekend. Ken Reiter N241KD - may make the big "O" this year > I am at the point where I am considering cockpit lighting. I am curious > about what other builders have used for lights and dimmers. Any thoughts? > Jeff Mallia Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 22:21:53 -0400 (EDT) From: StetsonE@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: cockpit lighting In a message dated 97-04-28 08:14:56 EDT, you write: > Jeff Mallia asked: " I am curious about what other builders > have used for lights and dimmers. Any thoughts?" I used post lights with a dimmer, and as a backup I used two of the little eyeball floods with a dimmer. I agree with Fred that a dimmer isn't necessary with the eyeball lights - they aren't particularly bright to begin with. I built the dimmers myself from plans in Sport Aviation. They're electronic with a reostat, one of those little football shaped transistors and a few other electronic gizmos (you can tell electronics aren't my strong suit!). All the parts were siliconed to the back of a reostat. Took about 45 min each to build. The cost was around $6.00 each for parts from Radio Shack and they work perfectly. Next time I'm at the hangar I'll try to find the magazine reference. Stet Elliott stetsone@aol.com Long-EZ N321EF Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 12:24:02 -0400 From: bil kleb Organization: NASA Langley Research Center Subject: Re: COZY: cockpit lighting MISTER@neesnet.com wrote: > > I used lighted guages where i could get them and post lights > where I couldn't. Hated paying the price for the post > lights, but they do the job. just a short gruesome comment: the ntsb guy who lectures at oshkosh (don't recall the name) said that post lights put nice holes in your skull during a crash, implying that he wouldn't get into an airplane that had them... -- bil by SERV05.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (PMDF V5.1-7 #16063) with SMTP id <01IINQ45CZJA000E8Y@SERV05.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Fri, 9 May 1997 08:07:18 PST Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 08:09:08 -0800 From: hrogers@SLAC.Stanford.edu (Howard Rogers) Subject: Re: COZY: cockpit lighting >MISTER@neesnet.com wrote: >> >> I used lighted guages where i could get them and post lights >> where I couldn't. Hated paying the price for the post >> lights, but they do the job. > >just a short gruesome comment: the ntsb guy who lectures at oshkosh >(don't recall the name) said that post lights put nice holes in your >skull during a crash, implying that he wouldn't get into an >airplane that had them... > >-- >bil I had the same (scary) thought. I am going to experiment with some of the new, large-diameter, high-intensity LEDs that throw a spot of amber light. The plan was to build a little timer circuit to pusle them fast enough so thay you notice no flicker, but decrease the duty cycle signifigantly. This "tricks" the eye into seeing a much higher brightness, without overheating the LED. I'll report what I discover, but it is going to be a long way off. --Howard Rogers, 415-926-4052 hrogers@slac.stanford.edu Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 19:05:47 -0400 From: Alpha Computer Systems Subject: COZY: Cockpit lighting Has anyone looked into the Timex watch type lighting that is sold as little square night lights you plug into hall electrical sockets to keep you from stubbing your toes on the way to the fridge. I don't know if their brightness can be controlled or if the power source is critical but I understand they consume very little power and last a long time vs bulbs. What about it you electrical geniuses? Do the panels come in bigger sizes? Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 17:31:43 -0700 From: C van Hoof Organization: Architect Subject: COZY: Canopy lighting Hello All, Would it not be relatively easy to construct an overhead type console with some automotive type "reading" lights or Airline type lighting. One could alter the lens, globe etc to suit? Have seen some automotive ones that could not have been deeper than 1". Sure would check this route for myself (when its time) Then as an alternative, a friend with a Comanche around here, just extended the "dashboard" cover by say 2 inches ending it with a curved end, thereby hiding from view the soft lights washing down over his entire panel, bonus - during the day it shields the instruments from the sun. Both methods seen by me and found working well in their respective applications. FWIW. chris #219 by InfoAve.Net (PMDF V5.1-5 #17060) with SMTP id <01IIOG2BRZK493VWO5@InfoAve.Net> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Fri, 9 May 1997 20:30:16 EST Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 20:30:16 -0500 (EST) Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by InfoAve.Net From: Nick Ugolini Subject: COZY: Cockpit lighting >Has anyone looked into the Timex watch type lighting that is sold as >little square night lights you plug into hall electrical sockets to keep >you from stubbing your toes on the way to the fridge. I don't know if >their brightness can be controlled or if the power source is critical >but I understand they consume very little power and last a long time vs >bulbs. What about it you electrical geniuses? Do the panels come in >bigger sizes? > The electro luminicence lighting that you are eluding to has been adapted to AC. At S-N-F one guy was selling a lighting ring (plastic) that had a strip of the light material (white/red or green) located around the inner radius. The strip was about 1/8" by 9" to allow the ring to be mounted between the back of the inst panel and the front of the inst. When on the light was bathed in light. The lighting requires a power supply (a converter), It is a 1 sq in cube that converts the 12v dc to a AC current. The coverter powers 12 inst lights. Cost ~$35/light ring. Neat...Expensive I tried to get him to sell me some of the strips and he would not do it. If we could find the Manufacturer of the the light material it would be neat to come up with our own design. The other lighting system I found at S-N-F that was real cool was: Lighting all your inst with lights inseted into a plexiglass inst mounting panel ------------------------------------------------------------------ Note to builders, After talking to other builders, seeing lots of canards and doing my own Longez, I would personally cut out the WHOLE dog-gone face of my inst panel out leaving about a 1" mounting lip around the perimeter. The panel provides little structual support. Just look at the panel when you start cutting all the inst. holes and radio holes. There is nothing left!! Save yourself the agrevation, and cut most of it out from the start. Build and WIRE your panel on the bench and mount the whole thing in the plane as a unit with some sort of screw system. Plug it in, take it out, put a long hinge at the bottom and flip it down, I have seen all these ways of doing it. (so flame me....) You can build the mounting panel out of Aluminum, or multiple layers of glass (about 8). I even talked to one guy who used a old shower door glass (with the textured finish) to do his layups. He said his panel was flat and had a great texture. You can even take a piece of a Nalga (nalgahide) smear it with vegetable oil and do your panel layup. Peal the nalga off and whaalaa, instant texturizing. If you dont feel comfortable cutting out the whole panel, put 7 or 8+ layers of glass on the FRONT of the inst panel, and cut out the back layup of the panel and scrape out all the foam. That way when you end up with a 1/8" mounting panel. Cut out the holes for the inst you can mount them to the back of the panel and have the lip of the the inst just sticking out Then you can counter sink the mounting screws. It will look great, and the front of the panel will be strong enough to support your inst, and counter sink. -------------------------------------------------------- Back to the story, Take some 1/4" Plexiglass to be used as your inst panel. When the panel is finished all inst. are mounted from the back. Cut the plexiglass, drill your holes for your inst. The front surface is faced with (1) black paint and over that (2) your choice of face treatment.,... Wood, Walnut, Oak, paint etc.. Looked real nice. Here is the trick. On the back of the panel he routed slots (about 3/4 of the way through the plexiglass) along the line of the inst. About 3/16"x 1/4" wide inst slot | 0 | 0 | 0 | radios | 0 | 0 | 0 | stereo | 0 | 0 | 0 | in each slot line the guy had a string of 12v grain-of-wheat lights (very cheap, good for a rated 40,000 hrs) all wired in parallel (about 1 every inch). Then he took some clear gubber stuff and filled the channels and painted the back black. The inside of the panel was lit, up and exited the circular inst holes. I guess you could also engrave the face with switch identifications. Each inst. was bathed in a soft light which radiated out from each channel through the center of the plexiglass. It looked great. The wood grain front was beautiful. The price was not so beautiful. Big bucks. Whooo, that enough for tonight. Good luck. Next time I will write a bit about my "Paper" electrical panel cover. Looks terrific. Cost $0.00....... Nick Ugolini unick@mail.charleston.net Varieze N89RS LongEZ N29TM Cozy Mark IV #0264 From: "Krasa-1, Paul" Subject: COZY: Carr Tach Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:19:42 -0400 Does anybody know where I can get a replacement CARR Tachometer. I have the short cable and the sending unit, but the instrument itself is broken. Paul Krasa Long EZ 214LP Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:01:04 -0400 (EDT) From: COZYMK4@aol.com Subject: COZY: Vacuum vs. Electrical Who has or is planning to install a vaccuum instrument system versus using an all electrical panel. I was planning on using the classical half and half system for the usual redundancy issues, but as I half looked at the instrument choices that are available, I have now considered going all electrical since the alternator should be able to handle the load. What are the pros and cons of these choices? Kevin Funk Cozy Mk IV #90, 75%done. Date: Sun, 15 Jun 97 01:04:14 UT From: "don bowen" Subject: COZY: RE: Vacuum vs. Electrical Just my 2 cents worth on vacuum vs. electrical instrument systems: I have been considering an "all electrical" Cozy. There would be two systems (A and B) based around dual alternators and dual batteries. The reason I like electrical systems is the ability to store energy via the batteries. The vacuum system has a source of engery but no means to store this energy. When the pump goes out, your gyro's stop working soon afterwards. As far as I know, only small general aviation aircraft use the vacuum gyro systems. Larger aircraft usually go electric. When I worked at Learjet (1995-96), the production aircraft were "all electrical". Systems designed around dual generation systems and dual batteries provided the emergency backups. One disadvantage of electrical gyro instruments might be the cost. I understand the electric gyros are more expensive. I am just starting on Chapter 8, so I still have a lot to learn about the Cozy aircraft. I am in no way a systems expert. Any comments?? Don Bowen Cozy Mk IV s/n 440 donmbowen@msn.com Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 13:59:09 -0700 From: Rego and Noleen Burger Organization: R.N.B. Enterprises Subject: COZY: Vacuum vs. Electrical Kevin raised the question. Speaking from an expense point of view I'd be forced to go the venturi route, I see the "twin" has something like it under the belly.( please confirm from pilot) Although a pic. is worth a thousand words it could be a drain outlet for whatever:-) My idea is to make it subsurface for asthetics with about 5% drag saving. Electrical is good too I've found a second hand turn/bank that works. Because we are forced to install transponders my panel will have to grow afterwards....:-( I guess $500 for a Vac. inst. is better than $1500. ie. A.I. and D.I.'s ????? -- = R=E9go Burger RSA Cozy Mk4 #139 http://www.home.intekom.com/glen/rnb.htm Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 22:09:10 -0400 From: "Edmond A. Richards" Subject: COZY: Carb Temp Sensor Hi to All, Just wondering if anyone has installed a carburetor temperature sensor in= an Ellison TBI? I have the Rocky Mountain Instruments engine monitor which has a sensor for monitoring the carburetor temperature. However th= e Ellison TBI has no mounting provision for the sensor. In the installatio= n instructions RMI describes drilling and tapping a hole into the body wall= of a normal carburetor. Has any one done this for the Ellison? My next step will be to call Ellison for their advice if there is no consensus fr= om this group. Thanks. Ed Richards Cozy #88, installing the engine. Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 08:05:06 -0400 From: David Domeier Subject: Re: COZY: Carb Temp Sensor Ed, re " Has any one done this for the Ellison? My next step will be to call Ellison for their advice if there is no consensus from this group." I called Ellison some time ago about drilling a hole to install a temp sensor. The guy I talked to said don't do it. It will screw up the fuel flow on the side wall of the unit. We had a discussion about the usefulness of a sensor in the throttle body area. It seems the temp in that area is below freezing quite regularly so the reading is meaningless. Probably a better place for the sensor would be in the air filter area. At least one could determine if the carb heat was working to heat the air before it went through the venturi. dd Date: Sun, 21 Dec 1997 22:44:15 -0800 From: Wayne Lanza Subject: Re: COZY: Eletronic fuel guages? Boykin Ed (C) wrote: > > Has anyone developed electronic fuel guages for the Cozy? > > Ed Boykin Hello Ed, I have an electronic fuel gauge system that's been in use for the past few years in about 10 aircraft. Haven't really tried to sell the system due to work load & how to advertise. It is really simple, it uses two 10 segment bar graph displays, occupies 3.0"w x 1.5"h of panel space and employs the SkySports solid state probes. As an option the unit can be had with a low sump tank warning light (does not include the sump sender). If you are interested please email me your snail mail address or a fax number so that I can send information to you. Best wishes for a wonderful Christmas & prosperous New Year, Wayne Lanza aka Composite Design (561) 664-8953 voice/fax 664-9239 home-eves From: "Boykin Ed (C)" Subject: COZY: Eletronic fuel guages? Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 16:49:17 -0500 Has anyone developed electronic fuel guages for the Cozy? Ed Boykin From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 16:34:20 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Eletronic fuel guages? On 12/22/97 16:49:17 you wrote: > >Has anyone developed electronic fuel guages for the Cozy? > >Ed Boykin > > Vance Adkinson has some available, Electronics International, and SkySports. I have the skysports in my Cosy Classic. The gauge unit is made by Westtach, the quality in fair. The Electronic International and Skysports use probes that have 2.5" dia x 1" thick unit on top. On the Classic the turtleback is wider than the upper longerons allowing access to the top of the strake inside the cabin. Thats where my probes are mounted and go straight down to the near the tank bottom. With the 3 and IV Cozys ther is a problem, the sending units must be mounted on the vertical face of the fuselage side. Most of the gauges have available bendable probes, I don't know the problems created by this. I would NOT have a COZY without some type of fuel quantity readout beside the sight gauges. With the backseat full of luggage, and its impossible to load without, the sight gauges are HIDDEN. The normal situation is lots of luggage and long distance using most of the fuel go together. Standard equipment in the armrest pocket is a small mirror, but that doesn't help if luggage is in the way. From: AlWick Date: Wed, 24 Dec 1997 07:18:25 EST Subject: Re: COZY: Eletronic fuel guages? Organization: AOL (http://www.aol.com) In a message dated 97-12-22 16:49:39 EST, Ed.Boykin@pcs.bls.com writes: << Has anyone developed electronic fuel guages for the Cozy? >> Yes. The auto industry deserves most of the credit ;-). I mounted auto sender unit to each tank internally. The three wires from each sender are fed through the tank vent lines, so there is no leak opportunity. Each sender provides two outputs, 1 is analog that measures how full tank is. Other is low fuel warning lamp (lamp mounts to dash). I won't be using normal fuel gage, instead will display fuel levels and much more on laptop display mounted to instrument panel. Have done this type of stuff before. I end up with normal sight gage, low fuel lamp for each tank, qty indicators for each tank, audio "you are low on fuel" in headset. Additionally, computer will make intelligent decisions regarding fuel qty. I would recommend everyone consider adding the "low fuel" sensor to their tanks. Could easily be retrofitted. At least then you would have some notice of fuel oversights. -al From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com Date: Wed, 24 Dec 97 10:50:16 -0600 Subject: Re: COZY: Eletronic fuel guages? --simple boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Al Wick wrote: >snip >The auto industry deserves most of the credit ;-). I mounted auto sender unit >to each tank internally. The three wires from each sender are fed through the >tank vent lines, so there is no leak opportunity. Each sender provides two >outputs, 1 is analog that measures how full tank is. Other is low fuel warning >lamp (lamp mounts to dash). >I won't be using normal fuel gage, instead will display fuel levels and much >more on laptop display mounted to instrument panel. Have done this type of >stuff before. >snip Al, I'd sure like to hear more. Part numbers, sources, etc. I will have a sump that will not lend itself to visual levels very gracefully. Makes sense for my application to integrate similar methods you use for mains as well as the sump. Are you using some A/D board(s) in the PC? The voice announcement sounds (play on words) nice also.... Tell us more. Larry Schuler lschuler@cellular.uscc.com --simple boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --simple boundary-- From: AlWick Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 10:33:23 EST Subject: Re: COZY: Eletronic fuel guages? Organization: AOL (http://www.aol.com) In a message dated 97-12-24 12:14:06 EST, lschuler@cellular.uscc.com writes: << Al, I'd sure like to hear more. Part numbers, sources, etc. I will have a sump that will not lend itself to visual levels very gracefully. Makes sense for my application to integrate similar methods you use for mains as well as the sump. >> I did a little more research for the benefit of those who would like to add a low fuel sensor to their tanks. I'm a little suprised by some of the findings. I went over the schematic and found that the ground and power leads for the low fuel sender are in common to all of the other dash instruments. Power lead from dash goes to "low fuel" lamp. There is a 1000 ohm resistor wired parrallel to lamp. This lead then goes to the in-tank low fuel sensor, then to ground. I've got a couple extra sensors to play with. I'll wire them up and verify all works as described. If anyone wants to do the same, all they need is the car dash and the fuel sender. There are no other components. -al From: "Boykin, Ed (C)" Subject: COZY: Questions to builders Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 09:28:36 -0500 Hey folks, I'm cross-posting this to the e-panel and Cozy lists because I think I can get great input from both sources. I am putting together a list of indicators that would be benificial to have on a Cozy. What I am looking for is things that a pilot would want to know before, during and after take-off that are basically an open or closed situation. Among things I have already come up with are: Canopy open/closed - (locked/unlocked) Speed Brake up/down Landing Light on/off Landing Gear up/down Fuel Selector Left/Right/Off Carb Heat on/off Throttle open/closed (I may set this up to show throttle position) These are just a few of the things I have come up with. I welcome any and all recomendations from the lists. Thanks alot. Ed Boykin aviatort@mindspring.com From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 16:05:34 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Questions to builders Ed Boykin writes What is the proposed function of the list? Provide switches and lights to show function? If so, added precious weight and complexity are added. I am happy with the following: Canopy - usual microswitch and a bright LED right in front of my eyeballs, but basically the plans installation to confirm if not latched properly. Its obvious if the canopy is open. If there was a remote door, not visible by the pilot, a warning would be appropriate. Speed brake - The handle sticking up is obvious. I assume the electric has its own position sensor. Landing Gear - Usual plans installation with BRIGHT led infront my eyes, and the windows to see the gear, including passenger side (wife double checks for me). Fuel selector - Nothing better than putting your hand on the selector, moving it slightly to verify that it is in the detent. I don't know how to add a position sensor, without adding to the complexity of keeping the handle, shades of John Denver). Carb Heat - Being injected, I have alternate air, the handle position can be felt, with its own shape knob, and visually checked. Trottle - same comment as above feel + visual, plus sound level, tach, manifold pressure, and airspeed/rate of climb. There's plent of redundancy here. I guess what I'm saying, on a Ez, the plans indicators provide adequate information, anything significantly more adds weight, complexity, and could even cause more harm than good.