Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 21:09:29 -0400 From: SMilesCozy@aol.com Subject: COZY: Concealed Rudder Horns Does anyone have drawings or information on concealed rudder horns? How much speed is to be gained by such a modification? Is it worth the effort? Any input greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve M. Cozy MkIV 272 Starting Soon Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 11:59:11 From: JRaerocad@gnn.com (Jeff Russell) Subject: Re: COZY: Concealed Rudder Horns Mr. Garfield writes: >Could you say if your plans are different than the RAF plans? >And how. Are the dimensions different in any way. How about the >design, cable routing, etc. Inquiring minds want to know. (I >already have a set of RAF plans for the LongEZ concealed rudder >horns) I also was given a set of internal rudder belhorn plans from RAF. The plans from RAF have both new and retro-fit plans for the Long-EZ. I used the plans for the AeroCanard and rewrote the plans for the Cozy MkIV and AeroCanard longer wings. The only differents is that we have longer wings. The drawings show installing the belhorn with the lower winglets on. The AeroCanard had none for this installation. We have NOW installed smaller lower winglets (about 5" tall at the L.E and 2" tall at the T.E.) I should have them tested by this weekend to see how low speed wing rock changes at 102 CG. It was EZer to install them without the lower winglets, but I don't think either would be very hard. AeroCad Inc. Jeff Russell 1445 Crater Lane Yadkinville, NC. 27055 910-961-2238 E-mail: JRaerocad@gnn.com Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 08:08:13 -0400 From: william l kleb Subject: Re: COZY: Concealed Rudder Horns SMilesCozy@aol.com writes: > Does anyone have drawings or information on concealed rudder horns? i have drawings and instructions i bought from the rutan aircraft factory (raf) for ~8 bucks (us): rutan aircraft factory building 13, airport 1654 flight lane mojave ca 93501 805.824.2645 (prefer: tuesdays only, 0800-1100 pacific time) > How much speed is to be gained by such a modification? maybe a tiny, little bit, but i can't imagine you could realistically discern any. > Is it worth the effort? it is rather easy from the looks of it, plus the cable routing is much smoother (read: less internal friction, thus wear); and, an additional plus, people won't bend your rudder horns at fly-ins by snagging their shirts on them. i believe jeff russell and others also sell plans/drawings. --- bill kleb (w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov) 72 bellanca 7gcbc (citabria) 99 cz4 -> aerocanard Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 09:08:28 -0400 From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" Organization: Patient Monitoring Division - Andover Subject: [Fwd: Re: COZY: Concealed Rudder Horns] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------33A95B4C2E34 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit william l kleb wrote: > i believe jeff russell and others also sell plans/drawings. Yes, he does. I just got them, for the same $8.00. Don't know if they're the same plans as from RAF. They look reasonably clear, I think. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com --------------33A95B4C2E34 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Received: by hpwarhw.an.hp.com (1.37.109.8/15.5+IOS 3.22) id AA00872; Tue, 30 Apr 1996 08:11:10 -0400 Return-Path: Received: from hp.com by hpwarhw.an.hp.com with SMTP (1.37.109.8/15.5+IOS 3.22) id AA00867; Tue, 30 Apr 1996 08:11:06 -0400 Received: from ab21.larc.nasa.gov.larc.nasa.gov (ab21.larc.nasa.gov) by hp.com with ESMTP (1.37.109.16/15.5+ECS 3.3) id AA160186257; Tue, 30 Apr 1996 05:10:57 -0700 Received: by ab21.larc.nasa.gov.larc.nasa.gov (8.6.11/lanleaf2.4) id IAA02789; Tue, 30 Apr 1996 08:08:13 -0400 Message-Id: <199604301208.IAA02789@ab21.larc.nasa.gov.larc.nasa.gov> Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 08:08:13 -0400 From: william l kleb To: cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com Subject: Re: COZY: Concealed Rudder Horns In-Reply-To: <960429210928_386183720@emout17.mail.aol.com> References: <960429210928_386183720@emout17.mail.aol.com> Sender: owner-cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: william l kleb X-Mozilla-Status: 0010 SMilesCozy@aol.com writes: > Does anyone have drawings or information on concealed rudder horns? i have drawings and instructions i bought from the rutan aircraft factory (raf) for ~8 bucks (us): rutan aircraft factory building 13, airport 1654 flight lane mojave ca 93501 805.824.2645 (prefer: tuesdays only, 0800-1100 pacific time) > How much speed is to be gained by such a modification? maybe a tiny, little bit, but i can't imagine you could realistically discern any. > Is it worth the effort? it is rather easy from the looks of it, plus the cable routing is much smoother (read: less internal friction, thus wear); and, an additional plus, people won't bend your rudder horns at fly-ins by snagging their shirts on them. i believe jeff russell and others also sell plans/drawings. --- bill kleb (w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov) 72 bellanca 7gcbc (citabria) 99 cz4 -> aerocanard --------------33A95B4C2E34-- From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield) Subject: COZY: Concealed Rudder Horns Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 14:09:16 GMT On Tue, 30 Apr 1996 08:08:13 -0400, William Kleb wrote: >SMilesCozy@aol.com writes: >> Does anyone have drawings or information on concealed rudder horns? > >i have drawings and instructions i bought from the rutan aircraft >factory (raf) for ~8 bucks (us): > > rutan aircraft factory > building 13, airport > 1654 flight lane > mojave ca 93501 >i believe jeff russell and others also sell plans/drawings. > Jeff, paging Jeff.. Could you say if your plans are different than the RAF plans? And how. Are the dimensions different in any way. How about the design, cable routing, etc. Inquiring minds want to know. (I already have a set of RAF plans for the LongEZ concealed rudder horns) TIA Garfield From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield) Subject: Re: RAF belhorn plans Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 18:34:34 GMT On Tue, 30 Apr 1996 13:28:50 -0400, you wrote: >Garfield: > >You mentioned in one of your posts that you had the RAF plans for the >concealed rudder belhorns. Do you know if that is in the public >domain? Lee Devlin suggested that if it is, I put it on the web pages >in the CAD files section, and I'd be happy to do that. > >Let me know what you think. > >-- > Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com My guess is that because you can still buy the plans from RAF, one dasn't publish it themselves. There are actually two parts: first, RAF release a "high-performance rudder mod plans", extending to full-length the originally stubby rudder control surface. Then the "internal bellhorn mod plans" was released, which required that you used the aforementioned new rudder size. Both plans are still available from RAF. Garfield Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 21:39:44 -0400 From: StetsonE@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Concealed Rudder Horns In a message dated 96-04-29 21:14:28 EDT, Steve wrote: >Does anyone have drawings or information on concealed rudder horns? >How much speed is to be gained by such a modification? Is it worth the >effort? >Any input greatly appreciated. I just finished installing flush rudder belhorns on my Long-EZ. I may be a lone voice, but I don't think the effort is worth it. On the EZ, you must attach the lower winglet before cutting out the rudders, so the result requires alot of work in very confined spaces. Kind of like doing microsurgery thru small openings in the winglet. It was a frustrating part of the project, and I'd guess that it added more than a week of additional effort. I wouldn't do it again. My thoughts anyway. Stet Elliott stetsone@aol.com Perpetual Long-EZ builder Date: Sun, 5 May 1996 14:23:06 -0400 From: CCady@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Concealed Rudder Horns In a message dated 96-05-04 21:43:18 EDT, StetsonE@aol.com writes: >I just finished installing flush rudder belhorns on my Long-EZ. I may be a >lone voice, but I don't think the effort is worth it. On the EZ, you must >attach the lower winglet before cutting out the rudders, so the result >requires alot of work in very confined spaces. Kind of like doing >microsurgery thru small openings in the winglet. It was a frustrating part >of the project, and I'd guess that it added more than a week of additional >effort. I wouldn't do it again. > On the E-Racer it's a bit easier to install the flush rudder horns, mainly because the winglet in mounted with the leading edge forward to the leading edge of the wing. This moves the end of the flush rudder belhorn into a thicker area of the wing. Also there is no lower winglet to contend with. I would hate to try installing them on a Long-Ez or Cozy. I think it must be very hard to line up the end of the belhorn so that it lines up with the thin wing at that point. From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Winglet Templates (and canard templates) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 96 18:15:44 EDT People; I have just made a set of winglet hot-wire templates out of 1/16" aluminum, and will hot wire the cores this week. As with the canard templates, anyone who would like to may borrow these after I finish. I'll gladly mail them to you if you let me know you'd like them - first come first served. BTW - the last time I checked, Lee Devlin had my canard templates, and was going to send them on to ...... don't remember! Who's got them, and who's in line? I do want them back eventually, but everyone is welcome to them. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 22:32:59 -0400 From: StetsonE@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Winglet Templates (and canard templates) In a message dated 96-06-17 18:16:31 EDT, Marc writes: >I have just made a set of winglet hot-wire templates out of 1/16" >aluminum, and will hot wire the cores this week. As with the canard >templates, anyone who would like to may borrow these after I finish. >I'll gladly mail them to you if you let me know you'd like them - first >come first served. Winglets are tough to hotwire accurately. The problem is the extremely large size difference between the top and bottom templates, requiring a fast speed at the big end and a slow speed on the little end. What invariably happens is hotwire burn-in at the little end, or hot wire lag at the big end, or a combination of both. What I did was build a set of hotwire templates approximately 3/16" bigger than the actual templates all the way around. I used these for the hotwiring, then used the "real" templates as sanding templates. I made the bigger hotwire templates out of formica and they weren't perfectly accurate. Just be sure to use your "real" templates as templates to drill the nail holes in the bigger templates. Do the hotwire job as normal, replace the big templates with the "real" templates using the same nail holes, and sand the cores down with a long board. The sanding will take two people because you have to use the talking numbers on the templates while sanding. It's really not as hard as it sounds. The sanding job took my wife and I about 15 minutes per winglet side, so not alot of extra work is involved. The result is perfect winglet cores. Stet Elliott stetsone@aol.com Perpetual Long-EZ builder From: "Daryl H. Lueck" Subject: COZY: Winglets to Wing Hints Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 22:07:23 -0000 I just finished all 34 plies to attach the winglets to the wings and = thought I'd pass on some suggestions. There is an edge to edge = connection between the winglets and the wings. Not much to hold on to. = When aligning the winglets, you use 3 measurements, from the wing to the = leading edge of the winglet, the wing to the training edge of the = winglet, and the wing to the top trailing edge of the winglet. The = tough part is holding the winglet in position until you can bondo the = winglet in place. I used a step ladder next to the winglet with clamps = on the trailing edge of the winglet. You need a short length of wood to = clamp the top of the winglet to the ladder. Once all the measurements = were exact, and they have to be, I globbed lots of bondo in place on the = edge to edge joint, 5 points to be exact. I also used 2 support 1x2's = as braces as shown in the plans. I let it sit for 48 hours before I had = the courage to flip the wings over to do the first layups. The bondo = held pretty well. Use lots of hardner in the bondo. It seems to get harder and easier to = break off when doing the final layups. It wasn't as tough as I thought. It looks great to get the wings and = winglets together. I wheeled the fuselage out into the drive on Sunday = and we bolted the wings on to see how they fit. It sure looked good. I = almost tied the fuselage to the back of the car and towed it to see how = it would glide! My insurance man stopped me. Instead I was content to = see how many cars stopped out front. I still have to attach the lower winglets, cut out the ailerons and = rudders. Thats the target to complete before OSH. Daryl Lueck Cozy IV #243 Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 22:51:54 -0400 From: StetsonE@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Winglets to Wing Hints In a message dated 96-06-25 23:23:34 EDT, Daryl writes: << I just finished all 34 plies to attach the winglets to the wings and thought I'd pass on some suggestions. There is an edge to edge connection between the winglets and the wings. Not much to hold on to. When aligning the winglets, you use 3 measurements, from the wing to the leading edge of the winglet, the wing to the training edge of the winglet, and the wing to the top trailing edge of the winglet. The tough part is holding the winglet in position until you can bondo the winglet in place. >> The edge to edge connection between winglet to wing makes alignment somewhat difficult. What I did that really helped was cut 3-4 stirring sticks in half, sharpening the flat ends, and sticking them about an inch into the foam just under the upper skin of the wing, all along the wing to winglet juncture. Rest the winglet on these sticks while jigging. Don't worry about delaminating the skin from the foam in this area of the wingtip. You'll later slice out the foam in this location for one of the winglet attach plies to fit into. Stet Elliott stetsone@aol.com Perpetual Long-EZ builder From: "Daryl H. Lueck" Subject: COZY: Lower Winglets Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:40:00 -0000 Here's some tips for the lower winglets. I think the lower winglets = were harder to attach then the upper.... When cutting your winglet cores, I'd make them about 4 inches longer = than the plans show. When you go to attach them, you end up angling = half of the winglet attach point, then filling in about 2 inches of gap = between the winglet and the upper winglet. If you made the lower = winglet longer to begin with, then angled per plans the filler wedges = would not be needed. I don't think the fitting would be that much more = difficult. After the fitting is complete and I was ready to micro the winglets on, = I bondo'd some popsicle sticks to the upper winglet as guides to hold = the lower winglet in place while the micro setup. I used 3 sticks per = winglet, on edge, so they don't bend. Hope this helps you. Daryl Lueck Cozy IV #243 PS Count me in on the Franklin, pending Nat's testing. If it goes as = planned, I'll be ordering the engine in Fall. From: "Volk, Ray" Subject: COZY: Cha 20, Winglet problems Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 11:56:00 -0400 I ran into one of those " Oh S***!!!!!! " problems last night while working on my winglets in chapter 20. I am addressing this to Marc Z. because I know he just finished chapter 20, and to the rest of the group as a "Builders Beware" issue. I have my foam all cut and contoured, 1" urethane foam microed on the tips, and was measuring for the Com attenna locations when I found this discrepancy in the plans. In a nut shell I believe I have cut the upper winglets 1" too short. One needs to be looking at Chapter 20, page 1 of the plans while reading this for it to make much sense. The plans show a dimension of 48" for the trailing edge slope of the upper winglet Styrofoam block. This was later changed to 47" per Newsletter #38, page 3, item #8. It reads (Chap. 20, p.1, Fig. 1: Change 48" to 47" & 39" to 40".). The 40" refers to the length of the rudder from WL18.4 to the top of the rudder, on the composite view. The top of the winglets is 9" above that, making the upper winglet, including 1" urethane cap, 49 inches tall measured along the trailing edge. The problem here is that if you cut the Styrofoam blocks 47" per the newsletter change, your total upper winglet trailing edge length will be 48", not 49" as shown on the composite view. I believe the error to be in the change from 48" to 47" in the newsletter. I say this because the tip of the winglet is at WL 66.4, the bottom at WL 18.4. That means that the vertical distance should be 66.4" - 18.4" = 48". If the vertical distance is 48 inches, then using a little trig here, the trailing edge works out to be exactly 49 inches. I have not had a chance to talk with Nat about this since he is on his way to Oshkosh, so I am uncertain as to how significant this really is. I would welcome inputs from others as to what they did. In retrospect it seems so obvious that there is a dimension error some where on the plans but when you follow plans one step at a time you don't always see the big picture and thus, you get burned. Regards Ray Volk Cozy #426 Finished chapters 4-7, 10,11,14,19, and working 20. work- rvolk@space.honeywell.com Home dj76550@goodnet.com Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 07:57:38 From: JRaerocad@gnn.com (Jeff Russell) Subject: Re: COZY: Cha 20, Winglet problems >I ran into one of those " Oh S***!!!!!! " problems last night >while working on my winglets in chapter 20. I am addressing this to >Marc Z. because I know he just finished chapter 20, and to the >rest of the group as a "Builders Beware" issue. > >I have my foam all cut and contoured, 1" urethane foam microed on >the tips, and was measuring for the Com attenna locations when I >found this discrepancy in the plans. In a nut shell I believe I have >cut the upper winglets 1" too short. We cut our upper winglets 49" long at the start. No urethane for the tip. We just round the top and glass around it. I have seen many sizes and placements of the upper winglets (also the lowers) with some or none change with them... Velocity will tell you that. I would not lose any sleep over the missing 1" on top. AeroCad Inc. Jeff Russell 1445 Crater Lane Yadkinville, NC. 27055 910-961-2238 E-mail: JRaerocad@gnn.com From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Cha 20, Winglet problems (fwd) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 9:25:36 EDT Ray Volk writes; >I believe the error to be in the change from 48" to 47" in the >newsletter. I say this because the tip of the winglet is at WL 66.4, the >bottom at WL 18.4. That means that the vertical distance should be >66.4" - 18.4" = 48". If the vertical distance is 48 inches, then using >a little trig here, the trailing edge works out to be exactly 49 inches. Well, I went back and looked at the plans (and measured my winglets) thins morning, and mine are the smaller distance. It is pretty clear that the plans are overdimensioned (meaning that there are more than one dimension specifying one distance) but it's not clear to me which dimensions are right and which ones are wrong (since they don't agree). IF Nat had changed the 9" dim. to 8" and the WL 66.4 to WL 65.5 (or so) then everything would match up. While there must have been a reason for the change (maybe just someone reporting some discrepancy to him, or, judging from my experience hot-wiring the cores, they just wouldn't fit on the polystyrene blocks without being a little smaller) we don't yet know what it was. >I have not had a chance to talk with Nat about this since he is on his >way to Oshkosh, so I am uncertain as to how significant this really is. As Jeff Russell said, I think this is insignificant. The percentage change in vertical stabilizer area is tiny, and as long as we make the rudders the 40" length, we'll have the rudder authority we need. It will be interesting to see what Nat has to say about this after OSHKOSH. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 22:49:56 -0400 From: StetsonE@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: RUDDER CABLE ROUTING FOR HIDDEN BELLCRANKS (fwd) I thought of a few other hints for installing the flush rudder belhorns that will save alot of work: When laying up the outside winglet attach layup (the one that goes from the underside of the wing to the outboard side of the upper winglet), DON'T extend the layup aft of where the rudder cable exits the wing. In fact, I'd stop this layup 1/4 inch forward of the rudder cable. This is a thick layup, and it will have to be cut through to gain access to the rudder cable and provide the cavity in the end of the wing for the thimble and nicropress sleeve previously mentioned. If you extend this layup per plans all the way to the trailing edge, you'll just have to cut it out later. This is a job, because then you'll be doing the cutting in a deep horizontal cavity in the winglet that the belhorn will be located in. There's very little room to work in this area so a little forethought will pay off immensely here. Also get yourself a 12" or better drill bit extension that will accommodate a 1/4" diameter drill. You'll also need some rotary rasps and maybe a rotary file with a 1/4" shank (most have 1/4" shanks), and a 12" long, 1/4" drill bit. You'll need these tools to work in the belhorn cavity. Orthoscopic surgery, like I said. Stet Elliott stetsone@aol.com Perpetual Long-EZ builder From: "Volk, Ray" Subject: COZY: RE: Winglets Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 14:27:00 -0400 Hi Dick I'm on the final stages of chapter 20, so I'll give you my 2 cents worth. >Could someone explain how the 8.5 by 3.5 cutout applies? The upper right hand corner of chapter 20, page 1 shows the foam block cores for both the "Upper" and "Lower" winglets. The lower part of the pictures is showing the "Lower" winglet. The 8.5 " dimension is the height of the lower winglet. The 3.5" dimensions is showing you how to cut the blocks so that you get the "aft" sweep of the lower winglet as you go from w.l. 18.4 downward. i.e. the lower winglet sweeps back as it goes down. Remember the upper and lower winglets are cut out separately and microed together later. > Nat also talks about camber in and camber out. This is referring to how you position the 3 hotwire templates that are used for both winglets. For the upper winglet, the templates are placed such that the curved surface faces inward towards the fuselage. For the lower winglet the bottom template is placed such that the curved surface is facing outward. "Tips for chapter 20" 1. The change that was called out in one of the newsletters to change the 48" dimension to 47" on the upper winglet blocks is incorrect. The correct dimension is 48" Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 15:31:02 -0400 From: CozyBldr@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Winglets In a message dated 96-08-25 21:02:43 EDT, Dick Finn writes: << Could someone help me out. I've been staring at the plans part of Saturday and all day today and can't figure out how to cut the winglet cores. On Chapter 20, Page 1, figure 1 they show a drawing of the upper and lower winglets as well as the foam block layout for cuting the cores. Under the block layout Nat shows a foam block with a 8.5 by 3.5 triangular cutout on each end of the block. Nat also talks about camber in and camber out. Bottom line is I'm 100% confused. Could someone explain how the 8.5 by 3.5 cutout applies? A detailed explanation of how the cores are cut would be real helpful. This is the first thing I've been unable to figure out in the plans. I'll consolidate any replies with my experiences into as final description for the archives. >> First of all, you have the upper and lower winglets to cut. The 8.5 x 3.5 piece you refer to is the lower winglet core. In Figure 1 Nat is showing how the cores line up to get the finished winglet and, at the same time, showing how the winglet templates mount onto the cores. Look at the large drawings M-21, M-22 & M-25 as they help clarify the process. The template used on the bottom of the upper winglet core is the same one that is used on the top of the lower winglet core. (Does that make sense?) The last thing is the camber of the winglet. The upper winglet's camber stays the same throughout the airfoil. The lower winglet's camber reverses from the top to the bottom. Again, this is easier to understand by looking at the templates on the large drawings. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have questions. Paul Stowitts Cozy Mark IV #200 Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 10:07:08 -0400 From: DFinn7971@aol.com Subject: COZY: Cutting the winglets Thanks to all who replied to my questions about cutting the foam cores for the winglets. Your answers helped provide clues to the problem. The final clue came when I stopped by a friends house to borrow some foam. He had not built his winglets yet but had borrowed a set of templates from someone who had. I looked at his templates and found that the the lower winglet template had been labled incorrectly on the drawings. I can't remember if it said "Use this side for right and transfer numbers for left" or "Use this side for left and transfer other numbers for right". In any case, the sides were reversed on the lables. Just change left to right and right to left and you'll be OK. I'll repost with any other info I find after I finish the winglets. Dick Finn Cozy Mark IV #46 DFINN7971@AOL.COM From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Cutting the winglets (fwd) Date: Wed, 4 Sep 96 9:29:08 EDT Dick Finn; >... I looked at his templates and found that the the lower winglet template >had been labled incorrectly on the drawings. ... In any case, the sides were >reversed on the lables. Just change left to right and right to left and >you'll be OK. Dick may be correct, but I didn't notice this problem when I hot-wired my cores (maybe I'm just oblivious to the plans :-) ). Just make sure that when you hot-wire them, that the camber of the lower winglet is opposite to the camber on the upper winglet for each side. In other words (IOWs), the two templates for the upper winglet should have camber in the _same_ direction, while the lower winglet bottom template's camber should be in the _opposite_ direction. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 23:05:06 -0400 From: SBLANKDDS@aol.com Subject: COZY: Winglet Template Labels Today I hot wired my left winglet. The template that goes on the top of the left winglet is labeled correctly (small one). The template (big one) that goes on the bottom of the left winglet is labeled on the reverse side. I had to transfer the numbers to the other side to do the left. It should be correct when I use this same template for the top half of the lower winglet on the left, but it is mislabeled for the bottom of the top half - left side.. One minor problem I encountered is the foam over cooked (deeper cut) at the top of the winglet while I was waiting for the hot wire to move the greater distance at the bottom. Is this unadvoidable? Any suggestions on hiding the external rudder horn, like the Velocity. What are the pros and cons of an internal gizmo, and what should it look like? Steve Blank Port St. Lucie, Florida Cozy Mark IV #36 Sblankdds@aol.com From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Winglet Template Labels (fwd) Date: Mon, 9 Sep 96 9:35:00 EDT Steve Blank wrote: > Today I hot wired my left winglet. The template that goes on the top of >the left winglet is labeled correctly (small one). The template (big one) >that goes on the bottom of the left winglet is labeled on the reverse side. I >had to transfer the numbers to the other side to do the left. It should be >correct when I use this same template for the top half of the lower winglet >on the left, but it is mislabeled for the bottom of the top half - left >side.. I had a long phone conversation with Dick Finn about the templates. I _don't_ think there's an error on the labeling, as long as you just pay attention to the first sentence on the large template (we couldn't parse the second sentence, but it doesn't matter). All three templates are clearly labeled as "for the left winglet" and are correct in that orientation. I wrote previously: "Just make sure that when you hot-wire them, that the camber of the lower winglet is opposite to the camber on the upper winglet for each side. In other words (IOWs), the two templates for the upper winglet should have camber in the _same_ direction, while the lower winglet bottom template's camber should be in the _opposite_ direction." In this case, the camber I'm referring to is what would be the _top_ surface of the winglet if it were laid flat as a wing. > One minor problem I encountered is the foam over cooked (deeper cut) at >the top of the winglet while I was waiting for the hot wire to move the >greater distance at the bottom. Is this unadvoidable? I had the same thing happen - I'd guess that the top of my winglet (after sanding it to remove the dip) is about 1/32" to 1/16" smaller than the template. Stet Elliot had a good suggestion (which I did not take) to make the templates a bit oversize, hot wire the cores, and then sand the cores to the template shape with a long sanding block. It's what I should have done. > Any suggestions on hiding the external rudder horn, like the Velocity. >What are the pros and cons of an internal gizmo, and what should it look >like? Check the archives - there have been articles in the Central States newsletter, in the R.A.F. newsletter, and Jeff Russell sells plans for the internal belhorn (for $8, if I remember correctly - I bought them). Ken Miller has the internal belhorns on his L.E. - they look great, but they also look (from the plans, and Stet Elliot has said a few times) like they're a lot harder to implement. It also requires a spring in the rudder cable, since the internal belhorn would otherwise prevent the brakes from actuating. I'm not sure I like the idea of a spring in the cable. As I think I may have mentioned in a previous message, I've put _two_ sets of rudder conduits in my wing so that I can use either belhorn setup. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com From: "Dalrymple, Mark J" Subject: COZY: FW: Chapter 20 Rudder Hidden Bellcranks Date: Mon, 09 Sep 96 10:05:00 PDT ---------- From: DALRYMPLE To: C345830 Subject: Hidden Bellcranks Date: Monday, September 09, 1996 12:00AM From: SMTP%"StetsonE@aol.com" 22-JUL-1996 23:21:48.61 To: DALRYMPLE CC: Subj: Fwd: COZY: RUDDER CABLE ROUTING FOR HIDDEN BELLCRANKS Hi to all, Steve Blanks (sp?) had a question on pros and cons of the rudder hidden bellcrank installation. I had a previous question on the rudder conduit installation and the following message from Stet Elliott had deterred me from using the hidden bellcrank installation. Also, I had over the weekend flew to Hemet, Ca. in a Cozy 3 place and met a gentleman that has a E Racer with hidden bellcranks and he said the same thing as Stet. Even after the initial installation period, he still had to resolve some problems with the installation. Once again my decision was to stick with the baseline. Mark Dalrymple Making Wing Attach bushings to save money and to Reduce Brocks retirement fund ;) Stet's comments are as follows: >As I've mentioned before, I'm not a fan of the flush rudder belhorns because >of the time, effort and aggravation that went into installing them. Figure >on adding at least a week of frustrating work to the project if you install >them. Printed words can't describe what a pain this part of the project was. >The external belhorns may look ugly, but they sure are easy to install! >Stet Elliott >stetsone@aol.com >Perpetual Long-EZ builder 1, Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 19:11:52 -0400 From: Paul Burkhardt Subject: Re: COZY: Winglet Template Labels SBLANKDDS@aol.com wrote: > > Today I hot wired my left winglet. The template that goes on the top of > the left winglet is labeled correctly (small one). The template (big one) > that goes on the bottom of the left winglet is labeled on the reverse side. I > had to transfer the numbers to the other side to do the left. It should be > correct when I use this same template for the top half of the lower winglet > on the left, but it is mislabeled for the bottom of the top half - left > side.. > > One minor problem I encountered is the foam over cooked (deeper cut) at > the top of the winglet while I was waiting for the hot wire to move the > greater distance at the bottom. Is this unadvoidable? > > Any suggestions on hiding the external rudder horn, like the Velocity. > What are the pros and cons of an internal gizmo, and what should it look > like? > > Steve Blank Port St. Lucie, Florida Cozy Mark IV #36 > Sblankdds@aol.com I had the same problem, so I had my helper ( the wife) do the wing template side while I did the tip side . I made small circles rather than just skim along the template. this burned more foam and didn't melt into the winglet as much. Then just sand a little and it should be fine. Paul Burkhardt Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 16:09:14 -0400 From: StetsonE@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Winglet Template Labels In a message dated 96-09-08 23:28:41 EDT, Steve Blank writes: > One minor problem I encountered is the foam over cooked (deeper cut) at > the top of the winglet while I was waiting for the hot wire to move the > greater distance at the bottom. Is this unadvoidable? > This is a common problem because of the large relative difference in size of the winglet hotwiring templates. What I did was build additional hotwire templates that were about 1/8 inch larger all around, and used these for the hotwiring. Then I installed the "real" templates and used these as sanding templates. It only took my helper and myself 15 minutes per winglet side to sand down the winglets to perfect shape with a long board and 36 grit sandpaper. Match drill the nail holes in the two templates for each end, so the sanding templates can be easily installed in their proper positions. Stet Elliott stetsone@aol.com Perpetual Long-EZ builder Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 20:38:13 -0400 From: SBLANKDDS@aol.com Subject: COZY: Chpt. 20 - Winglet / Com antenna Today I glassed both winglet outer skins. I am preparing to glass the inside surface and will be placing the copper foil antenna and cable. Thanks to Alan Lay, an almost Cozy builder, for visiting and doing one winglet with me. I like the EZ10 resin from Aerocanard, this was my first batch. Wets out easier than the 2427 resin, easier to see dry spots. I like my new AR-100 epoxy pump from J & B Products. The million dollar question is: How much cable is needed measuring from the base of the winglet to the connector loaction? Is it possible or practical to run a single piece all the way to the radio stack or is a connector needed? Where is the ideal place to locate a connector ? Outer spar, strake, baggage area, fuel tank (just kidding)? Is more cable needed left vs. right? Thanks for ideas that work and ideas that didn't!!! Steve Blank Cozy Mark IV #36 Slow but steady.... sblankdds@aol.com Port St. Lucie, FL USA Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 18:07:50 -0700 From: Michael Antares Subject: COZY: Chpt. 20 - Winglet / Com antenna I'm just at the point of starting a winglet so there are probably more advanced advice people who can comment. I installed a nav antenna in the wing and brought the cable out the electrical hole that is hot-wired in the wing. I left only a few inches beyond the exit point with the idea of installing a BNC fitting on the cable end and then using a BNC splice to connect with a mating cable which will go all of the way to the stack. I am intending to do the same with the winglet comm antenna cable. From an electronic standpoint it really doesn't make any difference where you put breaks in the cable so it is just a matter of convenience in removing the wing. You also can have more than one break if that makes more sense to you--just plan on installing a BNC fitting on the ends of each cable and then connect them together with a BNC splice (if you're not familiar with what that is, it is a purchaseable part, not any bigger in diameter than the cable itself and a little over an inch long with a BNC receptacle on each end). Michael 6077 Old Redwood Highway Penngrove CA 94951 707.664.1171 Cozy#413 Finished through chap 14 except chap 13. Chaps 16 & 24 mostly finished. Now on chap 19. From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Chpt. 20 - Winglet / Com antenna (fwd) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 96 9:19:04 EDT Steve Blank; >How much cable is needed measuring from the base of the winglet to the >connector loaction? At least enough to reach to the forward wing root rib hole. It's about 8 - 10 feet (I made mine long, and will cut them to length after the winglets are installed. I want the COM, NAV, and lighting wires to be different lengths, so that even the stupidest of fools couldn't attach the wrong ones to the cables in the spar :-) ). >Is it possible or practical to run a single piece all the way to the radio >stack or is a connector needed? As Michael Antares said, how would you ever remove the wing? Put a connector in line. >Where is the ideal place to locate a connector ? Outer spar, strake, baggage >area, fuel tank (just kidding)? I'm putting mine in the ends of the spar, just to minimize the amount of cable to be pulled out of the spar during a wing removal. I wouldn't guess there's an "optimum" place. >Is more cable needed left vs. right? Not to get to the rib, unless you really screwed up your wings :-). -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 10:02:13 -0400 From: DFinn7971@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Chpt. 20 - Winglet / Com antenna In a message dated 96-10-05 21:13:41 EDT, mantares@a.crl.com (Michael Antares) writes: << I'm just at the point of starting a winglet so there are probably more advanced advice people who can comment. >> I'm far from being "advanced" but never felt that should keep me from having an opinion. I installed the antenna in the winglets yesterday. Before doing so I talked with Colin Koebel after our Tues. EAA meeting and visited his Long-eze in the hanger. Colin installed enough cable to go from the antenna to the wing root where you must have a BNC disconnect in order to dismount the wing. Before he installed the winglets, however, he squashed the cable. Colin put a BNC connector half way down the wing and again at the root. He says it still works fine. Apperently there is no problem with splicing the cable. He advises carefully coiling the cable and taping it to the winglet until you mount the whole thing. I chatted with Nat for a few minutes yesterday before I installed the antenna. He advises, based on an article he read recently, that you place the foil attached to the center conductor on the top and the foil attached to the ground on the bottom. For my part, I'll throw in the following. 1. I used a router to plow a 3/8" deep trough for the foil. I peeled of the waxed paper and stuck the foil to the bottom of the trough. I then microed the trough and filled in a .5" square piece of blue foam. I'll sand it down tonight and then just glass over. the foam. 2. I also used the router to cot a 3/8" deep by 1/4" wide trough for the RG58 cable. I poured some micro in the trough, pushed the cable (with toroids) as far down as I could.I held it in place with finishing nails till things set up. Not the only way or even quaranteed to be the best way. It was just my way. Dick Finn Cozy Mark IV # 46 DFINN7971@AOL.COM Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 18:55:17 -0800 From: Michael Antares Subject: COZY: Lower winglet I just finished installing the first lower winglet. I can say that I spent hours thinking about how to match contours so that the lower winglet would fit as well as it could. I'll pass on what I finally came up with for what it's worth--others may have better ideas. I ended up purchasing a small battery-powered Dremel tool. On one side of it I glued a small bubble level (two bubbles in x and y). On the center of the bottom I bondoed a piece of a nail, about 3/4 of an inch long with the head rounded. This is in line with the centerline of the tool bit. For a tool bit I used a spherical carbide cutter. I then positioned the lower winglet above the upper winglet (with the joint facing upward) the exact distance of the combined Dremel tool + tool bit + nail pointer. The lower winglet was held in position with several scraps of 1x2, clamps, and bondo so that it was in the exact position it should be when attached to the upper winglet except elevated several inches. I then simply moved the Dremel tool over the surface of the upper winglet joint, holding it vertical with the aid of the bubble level and voila! the lower winglet joint perfectly matched the upper winglet joint. If anyone is interested, and this explanation is unclear (which it probably is) I can e-mail a jpeg picture of the Dremel tool modification. Michael 6077 Old Redwood Highway Penngrove CA 94951 707.664.1171 Cozy#413 Finished through chap 14 except chap 13. Chaps 16 & 24 mostly finished. Now on chap 19, one wing finished. Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 06:34:06 -0600 From: mbeduhn@mail.snider.net (Mark Beduhn) Subject: COZY: Hidden Rudder Horns I just finished installing my rudders with the hidden horn design that I got from Jeff Russell. Two things I really like about this arrangement: 1) No horn sticking out of the side of the winglet (I think it looks ugly). 2) The bend in the rudder conduit near the wingtip is eliminated so the conduit is straight (the thought of digging out the end of the conduit if the cable sawes through the bend makes me shudder). The bottom line is this...the internal horns look great, are relatively easy to install, and will probably be more reliable. I definately recommend this minor design change. Mark Beduhn Wings done! On to the strakes!!! Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 07:52:27 From: JRaerocad@gnn.com (Jeff Russell) Subject: COZY: AeroCanard: Lower winglet?? Not to my surprise was the results of adding lower winglets to the AeroCanard. At normal weights and CG not a lot of differences were seen. At 101.8 - 102.2 the biggest change was seen. Without the lower winglets the airplane would wing rock about 10 degrees right and left at 70 knots. This went away with the lower winglets installed. The AeroCanard feels more stable at these CG ranges. The lower winglets that are on this airplane are smaller than the Long-EZ style. The 8.5 inch tall lower winglets from L.E. to T.E. have been changed to 5 inches L.E. to 2 inches at the T.E. I like this change over not having lower winglets because it makes pattern work safer at these speeds and CG. I still like the look of no lower winglets then with them on, but safety is more important. Hope this helps someone. AeroCad Inc. Jeff Russell 1445 Crater Lane Yadkinville, NC. 27055 910-961-2238 E-mail: JRaerocad@gnn.com