Date: Mon, 27 Feb 95 9:24:39 EST Subject: Winglet option Sid; > I also went with the internal bellhorn mods which require shifting the >rudder cable toward the rear before you skin your wings. Jeff Russell at >AeroCad has the plans for this. What's the rationale for this? Does this replace the nylaflow going around the corner, or does this replace the external cable connection somehow with an internal one? -- Marc J. Zeitlin E-Mail: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Mon, 27 Feb 1995 14:28:54 -0500 From: SidLloyd@aol.com Subject: Re: Winglet option >> I also went with the internal bellhorn mods which require shifting the >>rudder cable toward the rear before you skin your wings. Jeff Russell at >>AeroCad has the plans for this. >What's the rationale for this? Does this replace the nylaflow going >around the corner, or does this replace the external cable connection >somehow with an internal one? It does both. The nylaflow goes in a straight line and exits about 1" forward of the wing TE. A very simple internal assembly attaches to the inside of the rudder and extends forward into the winglet where the cable attaches to it. This means that 1- no one will catch on the external connection at airshows and 2/ when the wind or a person moves the rudder outboard too far, the external fitting won't crunch into the winglet which happens occasionally. Sid Date: 6 Jul 1995 17:45:04 U From: "Judd Stewart" Subject: Wing Templates COZY Builders, 1) Do you trim to the OUTSIDE or INSIDE of the line. If my memory serves me I had to trim to the inside of the line of the elevator (original Long EZ canard) otherwise they would be to heavy. All other surfaces were to the line. Any Comments..... Judd From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Wing Templates (fwd) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 95 9:28:15 EDT Judd S. asks; >1) Do you trim to the OUTSIDE or INSIDE of the line. > >If my memory serves me I had to trim to the inside of the line of the elevator >(original Long EZ canard) otherwise they would be to heavy. All other surfaces >were to the line. If I remember correctly, the plans call for trimming to the middle of the black line that defines the templates. Not so simple - I'm happy if I can see a bit of the black line after filing the templates to shape. -- Marc J. Zeitlin E-Mail: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 10:19:30 -0400 From: Phillip.Johnson@Lockheed.on.ca (Phillip Johnson) Subject: Wing Templates (fwd) I don't know why you are so concerned about which side of the line to trim to, if your plans are the same as mine, i.e. there has been no revision, then your drawings will show a different template for the left and right ends. I called Nat about this a couple of years ago and he said that it was not possible so I photo copied the master plan, confirmed the copies were not distorted by overlaying the drawings over a light box, and then interchanged the two copies and yes they were different at the leading edge which is the most critical region of the aerofoil. Nat went away again and eventually conceded that the two were different and asked me how I had overcome the problem. I told him that I had taken the two templates and made an average from the pair. He agreed that that was the correct thing to do. If you consider all the various lay-ups and filler that will later be applied then the thickness of the line is negligible, just be consistent. Phillip Johnson Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 13:23:35 -0400 From: CozyBldr@aol.com Subject: Wing finishing I have completed my right wing and I'm in the process of doing the fill work (which I recommend NOT waiting until the end to do - it's a lot of slow, time consuming work). There is a transition point on the wing from where the spar bends to the inside tip of the aileron. Anyone have any ideas on how to fill/sand this transition? Should it be a smooth flow from one area into the other (more micro) or a more abrupt change? Thanks, Paul Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 09:09:28 -0400 From: RonKidd@aol.com Subject: Re: Wing finishing Hi Paul, I made smooth fillets about the radius of your thumb and went to great pains to smooth it into the counours of the wing and winglet (did the same on the canard where it blends into the cover). After abt 100 hr.of flight, there are small hairlines along the fillets. I sanded through one to examine for structural damage and it is only the micro . I would not finish this way again, but would make as small a radius as possible to prevent this. Happy sanding! Ron, N417CZ Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 21:48:38 -0400 From: Marcnadine@aol.com Subject: Re: Wing finishing In a message dated 95-09-04 19:08:25 EDT, RonKidd@AOL.COM writes: >Hi Paul, >I made smooth fillets about the radius of your thumb and went to great pains >to smooth it into the counours of the wing and winglet (did the same on the >canard where it blends into the cover). After abt 100 hr.of flight, there >are small hairlines along the fillets. I sanded through one to examine for >structural damage and it is only the micro . I would not finish this way >again, but would make as small a radius as possible to prevent this. > Happy sanding! >Ron, N417CZ You may be interested in the forum that Roy Bailets did at OSHKOSH 95. He is considered the best finishing person in the business and did the finish on Rutan's Voyager and just about all the well known composites. His seminar (Contouring and Finishing Composites for Laminar Flow Enchancement and Drag) was excellent. He gives many techniques on proper sanding and finishing. One of the things that he recommends is using Plastic Microballoons that will not cause hairlines cracks as micro will. If you would like to get hold of the tape of this forum, call (415)892-0133 from your fax, and chose FAX BACK and request all 6 pages. It will give you a list of all the forums and the information on ordering. P.S. I also got the Matco brakes and sold my Cleavland Heavy Duty Brakes, fyi. You need to order them from JD at Infiniti (619)448-5103. Marc P. N425CZ Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 04:32:32 -0400 From: StetsonE@aol.com Subject: Re: Wing finishing In a message dated 95-09-02 13:33:01 EDT, Paul wrote: >I have completed my right wing and I'm in the process of doing the fill work >(which I recommend NOT waiting until the end to do - it's a lot of slow, time >consuming work). There is a transition point on the wing from where the spar >bends to the inside tip of the aileron. Anyone have any ideas on how to >fill/sand this transition? Should it be a smooth flow from one area into the >other (more micro) or a more abrupt change? > My Long-EZ wings have the same transition. What I did was slather both surfaces with micro as normal, then sand the inboard and the outboard area separately with the edge of the sanding board running along the transition. I guess that's stating the obvious, but by doing this the transition sort of took care of itself. In other words, it didn't need any special attention to get the two surfaces to flow together, probably because the transition is at such a shallow angle. Kind of a nebulous answer, but I can't describe it better than that. A bit of trivia - I have a friend who's a Long-EZ builder and also an aero engineer for a major aerospace firm. He calls this transition "the yahoote break" (pronounced ya-HOOT-e). I don't know if that's an official term, or merely company slang to describe something that previously had no name. Don't ask me for the proper spelling! Stet Elliott Perpetual Long-EZ Builder Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 00:23:44 -0400 From: JIMWHI@aol.com Subject: Re: Attachment Bolt Covers Ted< I realize your getting close to flying so your wings may be too far along for the method I used. It involved carving slight depressions in the foam before glassing the foam cores. You can however use Tod Morgan's method which goes as follows: 1. Cover the hole with clear box tape or duct tape and lay up a flat cover from fiberglass that covers over the attachment hole. After it cures, shape it to the final shape slightly larger than the opening. 2. Drill a hole through the center and countersink for a flush screw. 3. At bottom of attachment bolt hole, mill out slot big enough for a nut plate. Fill it with flox. Attach a nut plate to a screw that has a light oil film on it, insert the nut plate in the slot, and rotate it 90 degrees. Let it cure. 4. Use micro to form a smooth transition from the wing surface to the cover which sticks up slightly. Good luck, Jim From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Rudder Cables (fwd) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 95 10:49:00 EDT Nigel Fields writes: >The Canadian regulators up here are telling me that in order to pass the >final flight airworthiness inspection, all aircraft must have a minimum of >1/8 inch cables on any flying control surface which includes the Cozy >rudders. Explanations of rational response deleted for brevity's sake. >.................... I need to know if anyone has >experienced or heard of a rudder cable failure in any of these designs. I >have not, but perhaps there is a case for stronger cables?? Well, I've certainly never seen any accident/incident report blaming rudder cables for anything - your analysis regarding capacity is perfectly correct. I would contact Nat P. and Terry Schubert (Central States Newsletter) and see if they have EVER heard of a rudder cable failure - maybe even Mike Melville/Burt Rutan. Phillip J. - what are you doing about this? Did they say the same thing to you? -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Reply-To: Nigel.Field@HQPSB.SSC.ssc-asc.x400.gc.ca Date: Thu, 12 Oct 1995 14:52:30 GMT From: Nigel.Field@HQPSB.SSC.ssc-asc.x400.gc.ca (Field, Nigel (1416)) Subject: Rudder Cables The Canadian regulators up here are telling me that in order to pass the final flight airworthiness inspection, all aircraft must have a minimum of 1/8 inch cables on any flying control surface which includes the Cozy rudders. I explained that Cozy rudders are independent single acting controls and 1/16 cable at 480 lb. test is more than strong enough to rip the control horn off let alone deflect the rudder, and my 10 year old Vari-eze works fine with 1/16, and my leg isn't strong enough, etc...., but they said NO EXCEPTION. I am trying to get this stupidity clarified for the VE,LE, Czy since it will be hard to change now on my Cosy project, and in my opinion is totally counter productive. I need to know if anyone has experienced or heard of a rudder cable failure in any of these designs. I have not, but perhaps there is a case for stronger cables?? Thanks for any input. Nigel Field From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Re: Wing leveling Date: Sat, 14 Oct 95 15:38:23 EDT Ted Barrow writes: >Suggest that if you have not built wings yet...then when you >do, while >wing cores are in the jig and level...flox a 2" bubble level to >the inside >where aileron controls go so that you always have a level >point to refer to. >Once you begin finishing and contouring you will not lose your >reference >point. This sounds like a good idea to me. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 13:10:19 -0400 From: NBalog@aol.com Subject: Wing leveling idea that bubble level sounds like a good idea to me too, but since this is months (optimistically) away, where, exactly, do you suggest putting this into the wing? I'll file this with the appropriate chapter. P.S.: is your construction manual starting to look like one of your undergraduate notebooks too? Mine's underlined in pen, pencil, highlighter, notes are scribbled in the margins, I have post-its and sheets of paper with sketches and now notes printed from this forum tacked into them. I'd always meant to invent a gag gift for college students: a highlighter with an 8.5 inch wide head so you could mark a whole page at one swipe. -Norm Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 15:18:00 -0400 From: Dick.Finn@FNB.sprint.com Subject: Setting Wing Incidence/Dihedral/Sweep I am now in the process of drilling the mounting holes in the wings and spar. Nat talks about the criticality of setting the incidence exactly and I think I understand how it is done. The problem is that I cannot fathom how to set the dihedral. The plans indicate that the dihedral is zero at W.L. 17.4. Further, W.L. 17.4 is the tangent to the leading edge. From a practical point of view, how do you actually measure and set dihedral? The inboard portion of the wing has to match against the top and the bottom of the spar. If you tilt the wing tip[ up or down to adjust dihedral wouldn't that cause a mismatch? How is sweep set. It seems that sweep is inherent in the shape of the spar. There is nothing in the plans as to how it is measured. Help, Dick Finn Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 16:55:47 -0800 (PST) From: Eric Westland Subject: Re: Drilling Wing Attach Bol I used this hole saw method and it worked much better than the "official tool" which is now too dull to bother with (it also makes oversize holes). I purchased the better quality bi-metal hole saw like Bill suggests and it too made an over-size hole. The simple solution for me was to just re-set the teeth with a hammer until it cut the right size hole. One of those inexpensive ($60) digital calipers made this chore easier (a great stocking stuffer!) It means going slower since there is less room for the aluminum dust to escape, but in all I was pleased and all six mounts turned out perfect. Later, Eric Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 20:58:48 -0800 From: stetson@speed.net Subject: Re: Drilling Wing Attach Bolt Holes On 30 Oct 1995, Dick Finn wrote: > Reply to: RE>Drilling Wing Attach Bolt holes & Aileron Bearing > >I spent the weekend trying to drill the holes for the wing attach bolts on the >left wing. I drilled the 1/4" pilot holes -- no sweat. I pulled out the 5/8" >spot facing tool and went to work to expand the hole size. I spent about >three hours and multiple sharpenings and so far have drilled about 1/8" into >the inboard hole. The spot facing tool dulls unbelievably fast. I called Nat >Puffer who indicated things did go slow but was surprised about how slow I was >progressing. He indicated that he built three planes using the same tool and >had to sharpen it three times. Possibly I have a bad tool. > >On Sunday I bought a 5/8" hole saw with a mandrel that that allowed me to >loosen a set screw and remove the 1/4" pilot bit. I was then able to put the >hole saw on the steel rod for the spot facing tool. I tested it on an old >piece of aluminum and it cut through like butter. Sadly, the hole was just >slightly to large and I had a loose fit for the bushings. > >I discussed this with Nat and he rather doubtfully suggested that I try a >9/16" hole saw and ream the hole out to 5/8" using a long drill. He strongly >advised against floxing the bushings in place and relying on the flox to hold >things solid. Nat said he had a lot of comments from builders about the >slowness of drilling the holes but is not aware of anyone who has tried an >alternative. > >Obviously another alternative is to assume that my spot facing tool is not >adequately hardened and just buy a new one from Wicks. This is your from friendly neighborhood Long-EZ builder: Don't buy a new spotfacing tool. I drilled for two days with my first spotfacing tool, alternating between hardpoints to keep things cool, but I got nowhere. (I mounted both wings at the same time so I could alternate between the 6 hardpoints). Then I bought a new spotface (around $30.00 a pop!), and it worked well - for about 10 minutes. Then it got dull and did nothing but make heat. Then I did what I should have done at the beginning - follow a suggestion given in Rutan's newsletters. This is what was said (from CP 39, page 7): "Long-EZ builder Fox Smith, sent this one in and although we have not tried it, it sounds great. He used a Morse #TAIO-5/8" high speed hole saw bit, called "The Real McCoy". Reportedly, it simply 'walked' through the aluminum/glass wing attach pads, when mounting the wings to the centersection spar." I purchased this hole saw and it worked like a charm. So I think you're on the right track with the hole saw idea. My holes did come out a bit large, but I just filled them with flox. Rutan said in CP 26, page 7: "We found that our spotface tool tended to bore a hole as much as .007" over its intended .625" size. This results in a loose fit on the LWA9 bushings. It is satisfactory to fill this void with wet flox when installing the bushings. It is recommended that this flox be cured while the wing is bolted to the centersection spar. This assures perfect alignment of the bolt holes." It could be that your spotface is also cutting a larger hole. Mine did. Grinding or pounding the holesaw to a smaller size is a good idea. I wish I'd thought of it. But I wouldn't worry about using flox for an oversized hole. I'm not an engineer, but I'd guess that the compressive strength of flox is much greater than any loads the wings could throw at the bushings. Flox is mighty hard stuff. I can't imagine Nat not hearing of the poor cutting performance of the spotface. EVERY Long-EZ builder I've talked to had trouble with it. I'm also very surprised that Nat never heard of using a holesaw. If he isn't reading Rutan's newsletters and incorporating their suggestions, he should be. He's missing out on the experience and suggestions of 1000 builder/pilots of an almost identical design, not to mention the expertise of Rutan Aircraft Factory. Stet Elliott stetson@speed.net Perpetual Long-EZ builder From: Ken Reiter Date: Tue, 31 Oct 95 08:56:07 CST Subject: Re: Drilling Wing Attach Bolt Holes I have never had a spot facing tool - Yes its true. The hole saw is the only way to go and the hammer works great - small taps - to resize the OD. Total time to drill the wing attach holes was about 1.5 hours for all six. Take your time and clear the saw often. Also, I had both wings mounted at the same time and would move from one hole to the another to keep the temperature down even with the hole saw. Ken Reiter Date: 31 Oct 1995 10:03:24 U From: "Judd Stewart" Subject: Hole saw vs. Spotface I haven't bought the LWA9's yet but it sees obvious that instead of messing around with the holesaw ID, just make new LWA9 bushings that WILL fit the hole the "The Real McCOY" makes. Because each plane requires 12 bushings it wouldn't take many planes to justify the custom part. any suggestions,comments,participants? judd From: Marc Zeitlin Date: Wed, 1 Nov 95 8:55:36 EST Subject: Hole saw vs. Spotface (fwd) Judd Stewart writes: >I haven't bought the LWA9's yet but it sees obvious that instead of messing >around with the holesaw ID, just make new LWA9 bushings that WILL fit the >hole the "The Real McCOY" makes. > >Because each plane requires 12 bushings it wouldn't take many planes to >justify the custom part. > >any suggestions,comments,participants? Sell me 12 bushings and a "The Real McCOY" and take a 25% profit for yourself, and you've got a customer. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 10:22:00 -0500 From: Dick.Finn@FNB.sprint.com Subject: Hole saw vs. Spotface Thanks to everyone who reponded to my request for info on cuttinmg the holes for the wing attach bolts. All messages were helpful. Here's what I learned and my final results: - I talked to my stepfather on Sunday. He spent his career in non-destructive testing of aviation related equipment. Omer told me that a spot facing tool was used to machine round holes within very tight tolerences. Apparently any out of round condition results in stresses which could cause cracks in the aluminum. - Nat Puffer tentatively discussed the use of a hole saw but expressed concern about it not being concentric with the pilot hole. He thought a 9/16" hole saw reamed out with a 5/8" bit might work. He did not recommend doing anything other than described in the plans -- no surprise there. His comments were appreciated however. Nat further said that he was unaware of anyone who used an alternative drilling method. - All of responses off the internet described using a hole saw when they drilled their holes. Several methods of sizing were suggested from tapping down alternating teeth to remove the set through using a whetstone to file them off. One person noted that his spot facing tool dulled quickly and he was forced to the hole saw method. So, last night I chucked the hole saw in the drill press and set it for a low speed. I lightly held a file against the teeth and frequently stoppoed to drill a test hole in a piece of wood. I checked the fit of the LWA9 in each hole. I stopped when the hole was snug for the bushing (about ten or fifteen minutes work). I then removed the pilot drill from the hole saw and slid the hole saw on the 1/4" rod from the spot facing tool. I proceeded to drill the holes. I alternated between the three holes on one wing frequently to prevent a build up of heat. I completed one hole and am almost through with the other two. Drilling was slow as the saw had the set removed. It took about 1 1/2 hours to get where I am. Another builder indicated that he took about 1 1/2 hours to drill all six holes. I may have to slide a 5/8" drill bit through to ream the holes out as I am a smidgen tight. further, the hole is a little rough -- I thing the drill may smooth it out and possibly releave stresses. I have had difficulty finding a long (12") bit however. Another possibility is a regular length bit on an extention. Hope you all find this of some value. Good Luck, Dick Finn --- Cozy MKIV #47 Date: Thu, 02 Nov 95 13:56:57 EST From: RATENCIO@LOCAL.coastalnet.com (Rob Atencio) Reply-To: RATENCIO@LOCAL.coastalnet.com (Rob Atencio) Subject: Spotfacing vs. Reaming Dick Finn had written: >I spent the weekend trying to drill the holes for the wing attach bolts on the >left wing. I drilled the 1/4" pilot holes -- no sweat. I pulled out the 5/8" >spot facing tool and went to work to expand the hole size. I spent about >three hours and multiple sharpenings and so far have drilled about 1/8" into >the inboard hole. The spot facing tool dulls unbelievably fast. I called Nat >Puffer who indicated things did go slow but was surprised about how slow I was >progressing. He indicated that he built three planes using the same tool and >had to sharpen it three times. Possibly I have a bad tool. I am not at the building stage yet but I have a question regarding this method of creating a 5/8" hole. We typically use a spotface tool for creating shallow cuts concentric with an existing hole. Such as when the surface is curved and you need a flat surface for the head of a bolt to mate against. When sizing a hole, it would seem that a piloted reamer would be more appropriate in this application. Is there a reason why this is not done? Rob Atencio ratencio@coastalnet.com Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 12:32:08 -0500 From: Phillip.Johnson@Lockheed.on.ca (Phillip Johnson) Subject: Rudder Cables for Canadian Cozy's A few weeks ago Nigel Field wrote about the problem in Canada WRT rudder cables. For those of you who did not see Nigel's post, Canada now requires that all primary control cables, including rudder cables, are at least 1/8 inch in diameter. The stock EZE/COZY design uses 1/16 inch cables in a 1/8 conduit. It is not possible to slip the 1/8 inch cables into the 1/8 inch conduit. My wings have been complete for a couple of years and the 1/16" cables are installed. I have spoken with my inspector and he sympathises with my predicament but says that his hands are tied since the directive says NO EXCEPTIONS. I intend to claim grandfather etc but I don't know how successful I'll be. On the assumption that the Canadian authorities will not budge I have a number of courses of action: 1) Cut the wing open, install new conduits, and apply a patch. This I do not want to do. 2) Find a new route for the conduit. I could probably drill a hole between the wing tip and the outboard aileron cavity then run the conduit inside the aileron cavity then drill a second hole between the inboard end of the aileron cavity and the inboard end of the wing. 3) Register the plane with a N number in my wife's name (she's a US citizen) rather than Canadian. 4) Rebuild the wings. 5) Start a different project with less agro ;-). With over a hundred brains out there I sure someone has a solution, I'm looking for help. Many thanks Phillip Johnson From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Rudder Cables for Canadian Cozy's (fwd) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 95 13:34:21 EST Philip Johnson writes: > ......... On the assumption that the Canadian authorities will > not budge I have a number of courses of action: > > 2) Find a new route for the conduit. I could probably drill a hole between > the wing tip and the outboard aileron cavity then run the conduit inside > the aileron cavity then drill a second hole between the inboard end of the > aileron cavity and the inboard end of the wing. I've got to believe that something along these lines it the right answer. You should be able to drill large, straight holes through the foam fairly easily. A method which just popped to mind would be to cut teeth on the end of 1" OD aluminum tubing (like the elevator torque tubes) and use that as a REALLY long hole saw. You could use a real hole saw to go through the glass at either end, and the tube only for the foam. It should stay VERY straight. If you bend alternate teeth slightly in and out, the tube wont bind on the foam either on the inside or the outside. You might actually be able to drill a hole all the way through the wing this way, and not have to use the aileron cavity, if that would present any sort of problem. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 20:08:08 -0800 From: stetson@speed.net Subject: Re: Rudder Cables for Canadian Cozy's (fwd) On Mon, 13 Nov 95, "Marc J. Zeitlin" wrote: >Philip Johnson writes: > >> ......... On the assumption that the Canadian authorities will >> not budge I have a number of courses of action: >> >> 2) Find a new route for the conduit. I could probably drill a hole between >> the wing tip and the outboard aileron cavity then run the conduit inside >> the aileron cavity then drill a second hole between the inboard end of the >> aileron cavity and the inboard end of the wing. > >I've got to believe that something along these lines it the right >answer. You should be able to drill large, straight holes through the >foam fairly easily. A method which just popped to mind would be to cut >teeth on the end of 1" OD aluminum tubing (like the elevator torque >tubes) and use that as a REALLY long hole saw. You could use a real >hole saw to go through the glass at either end, and the tube only for >the foam. It should stay VERY straight. If you bend alternate teeth >slightly in and out, the tube wont bind on the foam either on the inside >or the outside. > >You might actually be able to drill a hole all the way through the wing >this way, and not have to use the aileron cavity, if that would present >any sort of problem. When the hidden rudder belhorns plans came out for the Long-EZ, it required a different conduit routing to get the correct pull-off angle. To retrofit existing aircraft, they recommended something very similar to what Marc suggested above, by drilling a new conduit hole in the inboard and outboard wing with a long tube, and using the aileron cutout for the remainder of the routing. Philip - If you like, send me your fax number and I'll fax the applicable sections of the hidden rudder belhorn plans to you. Stet Elliott stetson@speed.net Perpetual Long-EZ Builder Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 23:53:28 -0500 From: JHocut@aol.com Subject: Re: Rudder Cables for Canadian Cozy's Being just a little anti-establishment, I would have recommended option # 3, registering the plane in Phillip's wife's name in the US . I think the option offered by Stet Elliot regarding the hidden rudder bellhorns sounds fantastic. I never realized that plans for that had been published, I've been fretting with a Velocity building friend on the best way to accomplish exactly that modification. Stet, if you wouldn't mind I'd really appreciate receiving a fax of those plans also (probably me and about a hundred and ten other people on this mailing list). Thanks, Jim Hocut jhocut@aol.com (fax # at work 404-794-5784) From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Re: Rudder Cables for Canadian Cozy's (fwd) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 95 11:03:04 EST Jim Hocut writes: >Being just a little anti-establishment, I would have recommended >option # 3, registering the plane in Phillip's wife's name in the US . What are you, some sort of communist :-)? >I think the option offered by Stet Elliot regarding the hidden rudder >bellhorns sounds fantastic. I never realized that plans for that had >been published............ I believe that AeroCad has a kit (or maybe just plans) for inboard rudder bellhorns. You can call them at (910) 961-2238. I think I recall Sid Lloyd saying that he has installed this modification, and that it works well. I'm sure the L.E. mod is very similar, if not identical. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com (1.38.193.5/16.2) id AA12353; Tue, 14 Nov 1995 11:20:42 -0500 From: "Volk, Ray" Subject: Rudder Cables for Canadian Cozy's Date: Tue, 14 Nov 95 09:09:00 PST Encoding: 18 TEXT Phillip Having not built my wings or even read that chapter I'm somewhat ignorant of what your up against but from what I've read here are some ideas. If you need to drill a small hole through the entire wing length, could you use a small stiff steel rod (I'm reminded of my dune buggy wipe antenna which is 3/16" dia. and 10 feet long) sharpened on one end, suspended vertically in a drill motor. To size the hole bigger you could stretch a piece of safety wire through the pilot hole, run 5 amps through it until it burns the size hole you need. For what it's worth. Ray rvolk@space.honeywell.com Reply-To: Nigel.Field@HQPSB.SSC.ssc-asc.x400.gc.ca Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 17:21:26 GMT From: Nigel.Field@HQPSB.SSC.ssc-asc.x400.gc.ca (Field, Nigel (1416)) Subject: Rudder Conduit For those who haven't built their wings yet you may want to consider installing 1/4 inch nylaflow rudder conduit instead of the 3/16 specified. I have just done this to take 1/8 cables to satisfy the Canadian bureaucrats but should I get them to later agree to 1/16 cables I can slip about 8 inches or so of 3/16 nylaflow inside, out at the tip where it curves. I mention this because some folks with higher time EZs have had the conduit wear through out at the wingtip and they are a bugger to replace. I'm not sure of the best method to secure it, but some epoxy or perhaps RTV silicone on the outer inch or so should do it. Its fully captured anyway but if it slipped out this could prevent full rudder and brake deflection. I think the rudder pedal pressure would be high enough to overcome this however. Just an idea. Nigel Field Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 19:44:59 -0500 From: RonKidd@aol.com Subject: Re: Rudder Conduit Your idea of using the larger nylaflow is probably valid (especially for the Canuks). I had the rudder cable saw through the conduit at the winglet abt 1/4" into the glass after about 300 hours. I made some small "exit ramps/guides" from Delrin about 3/8" high and 1 1/4" long with a groove for the cable to lie on as it went out to the rudder. The undersides of them were pock drilled (for bonding tooth). I then put them on with a couple of recessed sheet metal screws into the glass with a layer of white RTV under them for bonding. They have worked well and after 250 hours, the Delrin shows no sign of wear. Delrin is white, so they aren't really noticable. Ron, Cozy N417-CZ Reply-To: Nigel.Field@HQPSB.SSC.ssc-asc.x400.gc.ca Date: Wed, 06 Dec 1995 15:39:56 GMT From: Nigel.Field@HQPSB.SSC.ssc-asc.x400.gc.ca (Field, Nigel (1416)) Subject: Rudder cable success Thanks to all for the help on my rudder cable survey about 6 weeks ago. Your responses confirmed no problems with 1/16 cables so I wrote to the regulators and argued my case that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. They wouldn't go so far as to waive the Canadian 1/8 inch cable rule, but stated to; "build it per plans" and it will pass, so you can fight city hall. There are a number of us up here in the great white north that can now get on with it. Wings and spar done, fuselage structure 80%. Nigel Field Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 15:18:00 -0500 From: Dick.Finn@FNB.sprint.com Subject: Cozy Mark IV Wings A short while back there was a brief exchange of messages about differences between the Mark IV Wing and the Cozy III/Long-Eze. Wing. Bottom line was that some people seemed to think they were the same. I had an experience whith borrowed templates where I found that they did not match the Mark IV drawings. I don't honestly remember where the discussion ended but believe that there were still questions. In Nat Puffers latest newsletter he specifically notes that there are differences. (20% thicker spar cap, 4" added to the root, etc.). I suggest everyone read this, especially the fellow who indicated that he had built his wings using the Long-Eze templates. They won't match the spar and may be to weak on the spar cap. I guess the lesson is to not believe everything we are told by others without double checking against the plans. Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 09:44:00 -0500 From: Dick.Finn@FNB.sprint.com Subject: Mounting Ailerons I am currently getting ready to mount my ailerons on the wing and have a question regarding riveting the hinge to the aileron. The plans state that you need to bolt the front of the hinge to the wing and position the aileron correctly in the cutout. You then bondo the rear portion of the hinge to the aileron. Once the bondo is set you unbolt the aileron and drill the rivet holes through the hinge and aluminum plates on the ailerons. My problem is that I can't figure a good procedure for bondoing the rear portion of the hinge against the aileron. Once you snug the aileron into position there is no way to hold the rear portion of the hinge in position while the bondo sets. The gap between the wing and aileron is less then .1 inch. Could someone who has gone through this please give me some suggestions. Secondly, once the holes are drilled through the aluminum plates and the micro holding them in place you need to pop rivet the hinges in place. The plans call for BSP-43 rivets. Can you substitute 1/8" AVEC rivets with a longer grip length. The Aircraft Spruce catalog implies a longer grip length is OK. Is this the case? Can AVEC rivets be substituted even if the grip length is OK? Thanks, Dcik Finn Cozy Mark IV #46 Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 12:10:14 -0500 From: PBurkha238@aol.com Subject: alieron mounting In response to the builder or other builders who are installing their alierons I have used the following method and it has worked very well. Assuming that you have already covered your counterbalance weight with bid and have installed your aluminium plates, notch out the area where ther hinges will mount on the wing(about .10 inch i believe) be sure to round over the edge so that the hinge will be flush with the underside of the wing surface( use a straight edge to make sure their all straight). Next for the secret, go down to your typical redneck "shootin" supply store and look for ear plugs , find the stiffist ones you can find, they have since come out with many different types of these and some are very soft. (I got mine at k-mart- they came in a box of about 20. ) next screw the hinges to the wing in proper places then carefully take some duct tape, (as i remember the wing was upside down while doing this next operation) and tape over the hinge pin area, don't put any more tape below the openings in the hinge then necessary. Hint- when placing the tape in place you will be covering both pieces of the hinge, this tends to make the hinge bind up. use this to your advantage and try to position the unattached portion of the hinge so that it will have a slightly positive pressure when you later place the alieron in place. Now take your ear plugs and place them between the nutplates/screws and the alieron portion of the hinge. (they act as sort of a spring that will later keep constant pressure on the alieron) now mix up some wet flox and slather on the alieron portion of the hinge. now you take the alieron and place it carefully on the hinges, which should be sticking up slightly under the slight pressure of the earplugs. have your helper/wife etc. hold one end while you hold the other. I clamped two pieces of 1 x 2 , one on each end of the alieron opening, to keep the wing surface straight with the alieron ( it also holds the alieron in place while the flox is curing) then clamp the alieron to the board thus holding it straight and slightly movable if need be. After cure unscrew the attach screws, remove the alieron , then remove any excess flox from around the hinge/alieron area. you can now drill your holes for the rivets. if you had not put enough flox and find an air bubble say in one of the corners, just drill a few holes ( for hinge alignment) then pry the hinge from the cured flox and put more flox in place where needed, reinstall the hinge with rivets in place till cured. then drill the remaining holes and finish the rivet installation. the flox acts as a filler between the hinge and the alieron and can make up for any minor misalignment or surface inperfection with the alieron . when initially installing your hinges to the wing, make sure they are straight before drilling the holes for the wing attachment screws . after drilling holes then install your nutplates. If you install your nutplates to the hinge before the wing/ hinge alignment it is difficult to accurately drill through to the nut plate hole , try it this way first.